2a-Egg
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Posts posted by 2a-Egg
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Did a quick websearch via the motor museum and got the below back. Would a car go out to a dealer and then onto possible service vehicle? Red just seems an odd original colour for a s2a
Further to your Web Research request the build date recorded for chassis number 241-*****-D is 14th August 1967 and the vehicle was despatched to C H Truman Limited, Nottingham. -
Anyone know how to straighten out bumper dents? I have a small one on the top where the winch will sit a very big hit at some point to the under side passenger side and one underside but towards middle of the bumper it's a solid bit if metal though so what caused them must of been solid..
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1 hour ago, steve b said:
You've answered the question I meant to add .... So it was Red from new ? Was it fire Service from new ?
I do like the way you are doing this , slowly while letting your end goal materialise .
cheers
Steve b
I have a feeling it was airfield fire truck. The lid has a square patch so thinking it would of had a beacon on it, there is a hand throttle with 'winch throttle' written on it. And also tyre pressures written on the bulk head to the right of steering wheel.
Still have so many oil leaks to sort, but not space to do it.. Sucks really hahaha
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13 minutes ago, steve b said:
You've been busy , if you ever need to replace the UJ on the driveshaft they are the same as industrial power transmission units . Have you had a chance to try the timing ?
cheers
Steve b
Truck is on my drive and dpd failed delivery, could of left the strobe in my porch but no.... Also neighbour had all windows open on house and wind would of filled it with the fumes lol not sure they'd be too pleased. Ha
I am now thinking of going back to the original out of factory red for the truck. So will be red with cream roof top and wheels.
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Sorted the winch drive shaft spring this evening. So one step closer to fitting it.
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Floors going back in because I need to use it and well I can't with no floors. Have painted them in matt black to give them a bit of protection, and the rubber matts will go in to. Have put new gear stick rubber on and new hilo and 4*4 knobs on
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12 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
You haven't met my 'friends' over on Morris minors OC forum that swear they have never had a set of points fail on them.
If they think that they are on something strong... Points will fail, parts degrade, fact...
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1 hour ago, lo-fi said:
Get the timing set right before fine tuning the carb. You'll find you need to redo it after getting the timing sorted.
Electronic points are worth every penny, as Bowie says. I'm running Powerspark from Simonbbc and I'd heartily recommend.
Looks like you're very close to getting it nicely sorted
Is it bad that I want it to be as original as possible in the engine bay though... I know its got a webber carb but the rest is as it would of been..
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5 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Yeah, timing, or worn dizzy - I have fixed that in the past with an electronic points conversion, was like night and day difference at idle.
Might just service that then as have a few bits and will do dizzy spin timing ha or borrow a strobe
31 minutes ago, lo-fi said:Ah, that's not too bad for an old 2.25. Sounds like the timing may be a little off is all. I'll video some running for you over the weekend at Leafers at T'pit
Can strobe it at some point. Will get it hot and set carb properly too though
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Right so the carb is clean, the tappets are done. The engine sounds sweet...
The exhaust however sounds..
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On 8/14/2019 at 10:22 AM, gerty99 said:
Hi All,
New to this forum.
So not sure if I'm posting in the right place but your help and advice would be very much appreciated ! just had all brakes and brake slave cylinder replaced ( have one reservoir that feeds both brakes and clutch. The brakes are fine, but when you select any gear and let the clutch out it takes a couple of moments for the vehicle to move ???
any ideas !
Best Regards
Any luck?
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18 minutes ago, lo-fi said:
In these kind of temps you'll only need a smidge of choke when the engine is cold, if its set up correctly otherwise. Full out will definitely be too much.
If you can get it set up to run nicely hot you can't be too far off, but often having to wind the idle mixture right in means there's a little leak somewhere. Does it drive nicely now?
Not got it on road at mo as doing seals on bits.. So have floors out.. I need to have a proper look at it rather than a few minutes here and there.
Just can't see how or where air might be getting in.
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On 8/14/2019 at 4:41 PM, lo-fi said:
Lovely!! I'm slightly jealous, despite having finished my hydraulic capstan build.
How's the carb investigation going, or has rain stopped play?
Carb investigation just done, so with choke full open on start it's actually a little worse. Then when up to temp I put the idle mix fully in and it runs lovely, when I turn it out slightly it starts popping.
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7 hours ago, lo-fi said:
You may have to resort to heat and a press if you're satisfied you've got the fasteners removed. Do you have a parts book with a diagram for it so you can double check?
Def got both the little fasteners out. Damn spring being completely fudged on it...
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Anyone know how to remove the winch drive shaft, I have a new spring arriving but the thing is solid, have taken two grub screws out but it won't budge, lubricant and rust inhibitor added too, still no movement
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1 hour ago, lo-fi said:
Lovely!! I'm slightly jealous, despite having finished my hydraulic capstan build.
How's the carb investigation going, or has rain stopped play?
Rain has properly stopped play, it's something I'm going to look at Sunday pm after I'm back from a fishing trip in Devon.
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3 hours ago, gerty99 said:
Hi All,
New to this forum.
So not sure if I'm posting in the right place but your help and advice would be very much appreciated ! just had all brakes and brake slave cylinder replaced ( have one reservoir that feeds both brakes and clutch. The brakes are fine, but when you select any gear and let the clutch out it takes a couple of moments for the vehicle to move ???
any ideas !
Best Regards
Does the peddle come back as expected, if yes, replace the flexi hose between the slave and the clutch itself. It may have collapsed internally. £8 fix if that's the culprit
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Decided to clean up the winch I have, so have redone the gasket on the underside. And thought I'd clean the base, ended up. Taking it off and doing a proper clean up and will then paint it up.
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25 minutes ago, lo-fi said:
Would be a good test, it'll tell you quite a lot. Remind me what carb you're running?
Webber 34ich was fitted by a previous owner, so it is only idle you can play with.
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23 hours ago, lo-fi said:
Does it stop hunting with the choke out?
Not tried that to be fair.. As didn't have alot of time, just hoping I've not fudge the float level
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23 minutes ago, lo-fi said:
Hunting - all other things being equal - is usually because its lean, so yes, the float height could be having an impact. Could also be an air leak, so waft a bit of carb cleaner around anywhere there's a gasket or connection on the intake side to make sure you've not got anything leaking past. The revs will change if carb cleaner gets pulled in through a leak.
If lean its acting like rich which I know it can do. Hoping no leaking. Guessing a potential leak could be anywhere on the carb to inlet or on the inlet to engine.
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So the carb is clean and the truck starts on the button, but the engine is now hunting, could (if the mixture is right) the float be a bit squiffy now that I have cleaned it up and replaced the needles??
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3 hours ago, jordan_meakin said:
For one hideous moment, I thought you'd done a terrible job with overspray... but then realised you'd masked up 😂
Pahahaha... I definitely taped up... Haha
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Another post another picture or two.
Tidied up the front of the chassis where visible. And also put first coat of paint on the tailgate hinges. Colour match is good too.
New user new 2a owner
in Series Forum
Posted
Been on Google and they seem to have changed names before 67.. Which really confused me haha