2a-Egg
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Posts posted by 2a-Egg
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Part I need £2.48. -tool the sell to take it off £15. Love it haha
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6 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Transfer box drain plug.
Go to foundry 4x4 for a magnetic version. See my lightweight rebuild thread for details.
Your plug looks completely diff to mine, so I'm guessing previous owner put wrong one on then ha
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On 5/11/2019 at 1:39 PM, 2a-Egg said:
Anyone know what they call the bronze plug... Online I can only find fuel tank plug, but that isn't the fuel tank!!
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On 5/26/2019 at 12:48 PM, enen said:
HI
I see two upper rad hoses for sale for the 4 cly 2a
My car is a bit of a miss mash of different years parts
Does any one know the differences between the two hoses offered for sale?
Thank you
Size.. One will be short both in height and then length. Found this out when i bought a 2a hose kit for my 2a, but the 3 hose kit fitted.....
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33 minutes ago, Badger110 said:
Turn it into a coffee table 😀
Not a bad idea that. Give it a proper clean up and then get some good glass to put ontop...
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You can see on the image of back of sump where oil is, which is leading mento the crack seal. The leak only occurred after i toppes up the oil and after a few miles journey, sat after the work was completed with oil in, no leak occured.
Also is it me or does the large bronze stop not look flush in the other image?
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18 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Very possible I'm afraid, it is gearbox or engine out time if you need/want to fix it.
If it is not that much, just live with it
If its the T piece cork, is that engine out is it.?? Rubbish.
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Right.
I have replaced the sump seal, and i still have oil leaking from the back of the sump, where it meets the gearbox.. Have i got a possible inner rear crank shaft leak???
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13 minutes ago, Badger110 said:
I've learnt more about the SIIa in this thread than my entire life owning Landies.
Love it
Ha, happy that my tinkering and others replying has helped..
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So the oil is coming out of the rear corner of the sump or looks that way, the runs down to the plug and drips. Is this just where it hasn't sealed properly or is there potential of the krankshaft being a bit drippy?
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Well my luck with the sump gasket change has run out. Oil coming out the rear on the sump, I might of made that out of my own doing, by possibly putting to much oil in as it was on low so topped it up but now its sat on or slightly above high. Will clean it all off and then check the bolts haven't worked loose
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@lo-fi thanks for all that information, will come in handy.
Next thing, what oil do people use in their air filters?? I never changed mine when I cleaned it as didn't have any. So 15/40?
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1 hour ago, lo-fi said:
Mine was so bad it actually wouldn't start! Agreed if it's just a puff of black I'd live with it.
Last night I had to sit doin bugger all for 15 minutes for it to start again... It has to be the carb causing the issue, it is dirty so might be worth taking it off to clean, unless there's a way of cleaning it whilst in situ?
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41 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Float is under the top cover, where the fuel pipe goes in, you need to remove the top of the carb to look at it.
If you search for weber 34 ich carburettor exploded diagram you will find it I am sure
Nothing to stop you fitting the old zenith, if you don't mind spending some money. But a rebuild kit for this carb is quite cheap too.
Ah okay, well it seems to be running okay, and doesn't smell rich, only time i get a plume is on start up so possibly just the carb being junk...
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18 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Just found the manual, no running mixture adjustment on it.
So, back to checking float I reckon, this carb doesn't have an o-ring to leak like the zenith (the presumed carb).
Think there is only a idle mix setting on it, as I have tweeked that, but if there are potential heat issues on restart thats a pain in the rear...
Also going a little crazy, where is the float..
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42 minutes ago, jordan_meakin said:
Well, it's dirty! When you say restarting after a journey, do you mean if you let it stand a bit or, if you turn it off and then immediately go to start it, it won't start?
Stand for a bit.
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24 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Oh, it is a weber carburettor....
Yep. Unsure if your response there is good or bad haha
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So looking at this, is this what it should look like.
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1 hour ago, lo-fi said:
I reckon you're on the right track with there being a carb fault now, then. A quick rebuild will sort her out.
Ha, you make it sound so easy....
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39 minutes ago, lo-fi said:
There's nothing scary in there
The hardest part is usually cleaning the crispy old gaskets off. A few pots or magnetic tray for screws and https://burlen.co.uk will be able to supply a rebuild kit which will come with everything you need.
Got a mag tray so thats all good. Truck sounds great now and runs good. Just doesn't like restarting, so seems to be flooded when trying to start after a journey.
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5 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
O ring in middle of carb.... Or float level too high.
Ah man... Don't like the sound if that.. Taking carb apart
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So she runs well now after I have tweeked the idle. But...... It is still running rich.. Timing seems to be okay, so what might be causing the over fueling.
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Sorted it, the small brass plate wasnt making a connection to the bulb housing. Simple fix.
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This evenings fun.. Only problem i have is the bulbs don't sit right, twist in then push back out too far, i have to push the side light bukb back in a little for it to come on.
May I have the wrong style bayonet? The at 12-6 and sit Right at the base of the metal.
Pic of the modification I had to make due to non round holes
New user new 2a owner
in Series Forum
Posted
Yeah I know, just funny how you search for that part number and then brings the tool up too