Jump to content

Badger110

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Posts

    1,174
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Posts posted by Badger110

  1. Some real nice experiences there, including the ****ting Lion :P

     

    I had a feeling i wanted to run over and rub those lioness's on the tummy like i do the dogs...

     

    Not sure the outcome would've been the same:lol:

     

    Nice video and pics, and with an older camera too!

    I was thinking you were at least using a D750 or above.

    • Like 1
  2. No, neither really. The truck gets used like any normal car, however what i have found is apparentely standard for this particular engine series.

     

    the crankcase breather is fed into the inlet manifold pipe...combined with an EGR vavle and you end up with this scenario.

     

    The way around it is to fit a Prevent captcha can and blank off the EGR.  It's the cleaning i'm not looking forward to :(

     

     

  3. Whilst changing over the vcv i was aware of an mild oil leak over the past month or so under the bonnet and figured this was a good time to locate the source.

     

    As the oil has appeared on the underside of the bonnet, i was thinking it's around the front of the block more than anything, possibly being disapaited from the fan/belts at some point.

     

    I removed the inlet manifold to get to the vcv, it's not neccessary, but makes life a little easier and saves knuckles and ripping gloves.  The interior of the manifold and intercooler pipework is coked up quite badly and with a fresh coating of oil, something's a little unhealthy in the engine.

    IMG_0451.thumb.JPG.e5c4fb90fcba311b0f4cfbae30aa568c.JPG

     

    IMG_0450.thumb.JPG.41a9942b2b0a230eafb5d17492b5fe6d.JPG

    IMG_0454.thumb.JPG.275dcf6776d48acb37e7854d854c8020.JPG

     

    Dipping a finger in the inlet and dragging  it out shows the amount of carp in there

     

    IMG_0455.thumb.JPG.2a6fab4149d68b205042639fcae914ee.JPG

    IMG_0453.thumb.JPG.318aa7dea58b1fcbf70c9d5e948ef549.JPG

     

     The engine has been running since i got it ( 120k miles ) and smokey at start up and it's now on 160k. It doesn't lose oil if i'm honest and has had 2 oil changes since i've had it. 

    I was looking at ripping out the current airbox set up for something abit better and maybe a intercooler upgrade, but this will need to be sorted before any upgrades to the engine's performance is thought of.

     

    I shall look into it abit more as to the best way to tackle this and put it at the top of the jobs list.

     

    The vcv results? bloody brilliant! Smoother at cold, no lumpyness but top end was no real difference going solo, need to wait until i have a trailer attached to see if there is a benefit.

     

     

     

     

     

  4. 6 hours ago, landroversforever said:

    Stunning video Badger! Such beautiful scenery up that way, I'm ashamed to say I've never been north of the border!

    Good find with the Camel Trophy 90 too.... they didn't use them for many, I think only 1 or 2 events were 90s.

     

    Well worth it, beautiful country :D

    • Like 2
  5. Vcv arrived today so that's a wee job that needs doing this weekend.  The engine revs are up and down at cold start up, 6th gear seems a little flat too, so i'm hoping this may help.

     

    Also the Webasto for the shower ( which worked very well in Scotland ) has begun to intermitantly not power up the fuel pump.   When it does this, it also fails to create a shutdown cycle, this could be because it hasn't ' fired '.

    I do have a spare from a BMW X5 which i can swap the PCB from this one to eliminate a unit fault.

     

    Other jobs to do this weekend are the lift up vents on the Dormobile roof.  One decided to make a break for freedom whilst we were away and a kind gentleman captured and returned it whilst we were out.  It's duct taped down in the position now and hasn't budged, but a more permanent solution is needed.  I looked at replacing it with a marine style opening hatch but it's a bit overkill for what it actually is.  I may GRP over it and fit a small circular vent that can opened to allow some fresh air in.

     

    The middle shroom vent in the upward position and dropping down into driving position casued some water to come in, i think it's collecting water when at an angle and dumping it inside when the roof is closed.  It's no biggy but does need looking at, i may look at a motorised one which can be turned on to empty it when the roof is up.

     

     

     

     

  6. 30 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:

    Lovely pics Badger, looks like you had a good trip.

    For clarity - strictly speaking almost none of the forest tracks or other ungated unmetalled roads can be driven without the landowners permission. There are a few forest drives (tolled) and other examples of permitted access but there are no vehicular ‘rights of way’ beyond the normal tarred public roads like there are in England and Wales.

    The good thing about Scotland is that you don’t need to get off the tarmac to explore it.

    My ignorance shows through :(  I wasn't aware this was the case. 

    The roads we found were clearly marked on the app with notices on the gates asking people to keep the gates closed at all times due to deer crossing over into areas with indiginous trees and destroying them, these were aimed at walkers no doubt.

    I shall be aware on the next trip :D

  7. All very interesting points, thank you.


    With regards to a winch, it's an item i've considered and still might get, however it's the mounting which got me thinking.

     

    The front bumper has the wheel mounted to it and the rear is set clear as i'm still thinking of mounting a small cc trails bike to a swingaway set up which would take up the rear crossmemeber space needed for a winch.  However, i did consider making up a tray at the rear which the winch can be ' dropped ' into and secured with quick release bolts if and when needed.  If i make one for the front then i've covered both ends ( remove the spare wheel, drop the winch in ).  Anderson plugs for power etc and when not in use, it can be stored elsewhere so as not hinder the swingaway or the front wheel mounted. 

    Alternatively, use a tirifor, less hassle and simple :D

     

    Anyway i'm thinking off topic here abit.

     

    Back on topic, ATB's front and rear, HD flanges front and rear, CV and shafts replaced at the front and shafts only for the rear. The rear is apparentely pretty decent and won't receive alot of shock from ATB's over Lockers.


    ATB's are a fit and forget, enhance the already fitted TC and are cheaper and easier to fit.

     

    I'm going to contact 4x4Xcess for more advice and prices

  8. I had a very similar issue ( my radio didn't work either ) and after some searching came back with the cable connections on the rear of the ignition barrel.

    You can buy the part seperate to the barrel but you'll need a new set of shear bolts to re fit the barrel after you've cut the old ones off

    Look at this thread over on Def2, shows removing the barrel to get to it;

    https://www.defender2.net/forum/post603224.html

  9. One thing i did notice with Scotland was the large wheelie bins at most car parks supplied by the locals for people to deposit their rubbish as the volume of traffic in these areas is much much larger than, maybe 10-15 years ago.

     

    Still got rubbish left 20 metres from the bin.

     

    You can't knock such a fantastic beautiful country for trying to cater for the traveller, clean public toilets with hot water and some even had heating!

     

     

    • Like 1
  10. Thank you all for your inputs.

     

    Here's my thought process and how i ended up here, and please feel free to point me in a different direction with your knowledge and experience :D

     

    This will be our home. It will provide us with the ability to get around the world in any situation, from Nordkapp to Cape town.  I'm not one for uneccessary bolt on bits unless they have a function which improves mine, the wife, the dogs and most importantly, the truck's life and well being.


    The standard front diff, from what i can gather, aren't the best so i would like to replace it with something stronger. This got me onto the Ashcroft website where i sat for a while reading up on the locking diff set ups.  I figured the Locking diffs alone are pretty substantial over the standard, so why not use them as a replacement.  Keeping it in the Ashcroft family, the shafts and CV joints can all be done at the same time.  The HD props have been bought, so that is covered too. 

     

    As for the rears, well if i'm having a locking diff at the front, then i may as well replace the rear. Again the shafts and CV joints will be upgraded regardless.

     

    So it isn't so much having Locking Diffs as it is replacing standard with something abit stronger, the bonus is the replacements are also lockable.

     

    Nonimouse put it well when he says ' know your limits ' and i couldn't agree more.  I've put myself in positions recently with the truck and stepped back and realised i approached it all wrong, but experience is a key to knowledge ;)

     

    I can only see an improvement by doing this, however i'm happy if someone comes up with a suitable stronger set up than what i have to consider :D

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  11. it's been a few months dealing with family matters, but the build is back on.

     

    We took the truck to Scotland for 3 weeks and it performed great.

     

    Sitting in the evenings with the bushpig burning away and a few jars inside me, i began to consider upgrading the running gear of the truck.  Long term we wish to use this world wide in all areas and environments, possibly towing a trailer and with a little money in the penny jar at the moment, now is a good time to spend it.

    Firstly, everything is standard underneath.

    I'm running tubed 7.5 x16 tyres at present and i'm happy to keep the size as they've proved pretty good so far.

    Rear axle first;

    Ashcroft LD, CV's replace ( abs version ) and rear shafts

    Front axle;

    Ashcroft LD, CV's replace ( abs again ) and front shafts

    Also i might have bagged some HD props from Def2 forum, but we'll see.


    Ashcroft do the service of fitting the lockers into my casings, however i think i should be ok to do it myself.  Is there anything i might likely need to replace or consider replacing at the time? It does look like a good idea to peg the diff, but this does look beyond my capabilities! Am i likely to find a non pegged diff an issue or is it a belt n braces approach to have it pegged....?

    The first real stumbling block ( for me )  is fitting the air lines and hooking up the compressor ( T-Max )...do i need to run a seperate small tank?  I don't think i do...but i'll go with those with knowledge/experience

    Also can i rig it so i can still use the compressor for normal tyre duties? I was thinking a t piece valve with a lever to direct the airline to an external adaptor to plug a line into for the tyres if and when needed and then moved back to supply the tank

    The axles will be dropped out and put on a bench if i decide to it, at this time should i be looking at anything else?  Are axle casing strengtheners worth it?  Will it hurt to weld them on anyway as it'll all be out and on the bench.

     

  12. Indeed it is!

     

    Fitted the solar panel to the roof and wired that up to a MPPT to the AGM battery.

     

    When fitted, the solar panel charges the AGM and the main battery, however i have a VSR fitted between the 2, excuse my ignorance, but does the VSR allow flow both ways?   I understand the VSR opens when voltage hits a certain point ( 13.6v? ) to allow charge to the AGM battery from the alternator, but should it also open if the AGM battery is receiving charge and hits 13.6v also?

    When i crank the engine, both batteries drop voltage to 12.6v which shouldn't happen with a VSR fitted.

     

     

  13. A few more bits done to the build, the main one being the heating and shower set up.

     

    I have 2 webasto thermo top c's kicking about which i was planning to fit one to the engine as a pre heater and 1 for heating/hot water set up.

     

    There are many ways to heat water in a vehicle or a boat or even your off grid spoon wittling shack in the woods and i've studied them all.

     

    I took Webasto's idea as it was the more simplier way and reduced a need to fit bulky items and tweeked it abit for my own needs;

    1512410796_original_3.jpg.ee9f71b7c8681010268be1d02a4cdcb5.jpg

    Firstly i made a small box in the rear quarter section of the Landy which was previously used to house the Propane bottle.

     

    In here i fitted the Webasto, a 12v pump and the heat exchanger. 

    IMG_0023.thumb.JPG.f5681f72ec5c1abb63593bf78e9ee627.JPG

    IMG_0024.thumb.JPG.f93fb766e7062f06f21f5c9c98cdd54c.JPG

    IMG_0025.thumb.JPG.077d7725c6a660e65627875efe590bf5.JPG

     

    To the right of the opening, i fitted a bullfinch shower outlet

    IMG_0020.thumb.JPG.f903dd07c9cd1a5e908c62f994a7ee71.JPG

    IMG_0033.thumb.JPG.07c109588da61e47091fdbda1e973706.JPG

     

    The expansion tank is inside the Landy bolted to the rear panel, it's fairly slim so it's not in the way, this was the one i used;

    PIm_41K5210A.jpg.6a4e2c72952965a1f9252706a54a5243.jpg

     

    I have also fitted this Fan heat exchanger  (FHE) to provide heat;

    IMG_0030.thumb.JPG.07bba74b6de38f6ba769ff8d13d70071.JPG

     


    The entire system is in fact 2 seperate water feeds ( as in the diagram )

    The webasto side is pretty much a closed loop with water/anti freeze looping from the Webasto>PHE (plate heat exchanger )> FHE > Expansion tank > then back to the Webasto and so provides a loop.

    The shower/pump side is purely based on water drawn via the pump.  The water is heated by passing through the PHE when the webasto is running.

     

    The system is designed to be used as;

     

    • Heating for the truck ( via the FHE )
    • Hot shower using the mixer head
    • Cold water feed for collecting water

    If we're using the shower outside, we don't have to have the heating on in the truck by not turning the fan on. Hot water circulates around the system but isn't introduced to the living area unless we want it. 

    When the heating is on, we isolate the cold water pump to stop any heat travelling from the PHE. 

     

    Webasto's have a temperature cut off about 40c and with the shower running, it'll hit this after 15 minutes ( on a hot day ) and cycle down for 10 minutes. 

    If we have the heating on , i get 20 minutes of heat and cycle down for 10, again this has been tested on a hot day.  I can lengthen the running times by extending the return pipe from FHE to maybe go outside or even i've considered running it along the floor of the cab to cool it down and provide underfloor heating, but i'm confident at the moment it will good to keep the truck warm through cycling every 30minutes or so.

     

    Cheers

     

    • Like 2
  14. 11 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

    Genuine Scottish fabricator !! Who would that be ?? I just happen to live in Scotland 19 yrs now originally from the North East  take care bonny lad regards Stephen

    Ssshhh don't tell her that! 

     

    I said you'd be wearing a kilt and everything!

    • Haha 1
  15. Good evening!

     

    I am still here, albeit not online as much, life gets in the way with one thing or another  :D

     

    How are you doing up there?  I threatened the missus we'd seek out geniune Scottish fabricator who could teach us a wee bit when we leave on our travels :P

     

    I must post some more updates to the build, it's a labour of love and i'm still enjoying it when i can :D

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy