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Badger110

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Posts posted by Badger110

  1. 32 minutes ago, western said:

    Still think you need to look at the areas I mentioned, as removing the pads won't cure that fault of hub inner face touching the caliper outer faces.


    After cleaning the surfaces up, the distances to the disc have become equal , I first thought they were touching :unsure:

     

  2. I’ve removed the pads from the front, prop shaft still removed and it’s acting like it should do, half a turn gives me a full turn at least ( both wheels off the floor )

     

    So the issue is with the brakes binding.

     

    I’ve not touched anything and the pads & discs were replaced about 2 years ago ( still plenty of wear in the pads, discs have an even face )

     

    It looks like a overhaul of the callipers then as it seems they’re not returning correctly, however being 10 years old, is it worth just replacing them? 
     

     

     

     

     

     

  3. I’ve had an inclination that the front running gear might not be doing it’s job well lately and after a run out yesterday I’m pretty sure it’s not.

     

    I installed the aux tank not long ago and was looking for some decent returns on fuel, however the calculations are about 16mpg which is pretty dire.  The tune and exhaust/intercooler/air inlet shouldn’t affect anything that badly, however I noticed that even on pretty steep hills the landy is slowing down when momentum should be pushing it along at a steady speed, even accelerating. I know it’s even less aerodynamic than usual, but bear with me.

     

    I lifted the front wheel to give it a whizz around and after a half  turn ( hand on top and turning it 180 degree around to 6 o’clock ) it just reaches 9 o’clock. There is a sound like the pads rubbing on the discs, but not overly loud.

     

    I drained the diff as it’s due, black oil came out, smelt like oil, no lumps of metal as yet.

     

    I’ve disconnected the prop shaft and spun it again, it gives me a little more distance, but it does feel like I have some resistance above and beyond what’s normal.  This is with one wheel in the air

     

    The rear’s give a better result but I haven’t disconnected the prop or drained that one yet.

     

    one other point which may be of interest, when turning to the right I get a double clunk sound, this doesn’t happen all the time and only when the steering is under load ( slow speed  or stationary).

     

    The wheels themselves have no play side to side.

     

    The diff is showing signs of oil leaks around the breather, fill plug and around the output shaft to the prop.

     

    Is it worth removing the diff cover to take a look inside? This is the 2 pin variation front diff.

     

     

  4. Yes it would be, however the channel is a specific roller slide with bearings inside it.  I looked at channel slides which have a single unit which slides within the outer cage but they are restricted in the amount of distance they can open.

     

    I have re done it now and it’s pretty solid, as much as keeping the alcohol in the glasses and the peas on the plates :P

  5. I have the BP ones on the 110, they were fitted by the garage i got the truck from.

    It is a stiff ride, but i'm not sure if that's them, the shocks ( standard purple ) or the fact it's a USW so has stiffer suspension all round at the rear.

     

    Would love to soften it abit

  6. On 1/10/2021 at 2:06 PM, monkie said:

    A solid colour is from a supply to a switch and a striped colour is switch to component.

     

       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
     

     

     

    Excuse my ignorance, is this what you are doing, or a standard procedure in LR wiring? 

  7. If i understand you correctly, bend to 30 degree, move the centre point along slightly, then bend again, move along and bend again to achieve 90 degree?

     

    With practice, i would work out the point it bends without creating a depression..it may be more than 30 degrees?

     

     

  8. One has come up down the road from me for £80, it's a 12 ton version on a stand with various die's to go with it.

     

     When i made the side rails from the bullbar to the rock sliders, i purchased pre made angles, this type of tool seems a good idea for another project i have rather than buy pre made angles again.

     

    Does anyone have experience of these Ferm tools?  It looks identical to a Machine Mart version after a google search, not much else i can find.

     

    I would be looking to bend 3mm wall mild steel tube

  9. On 1/17/2021 at 3:55 PM, simonr said:

    Sometimes - but usually we have a workshop close enough to the action.

    SFX is split into two bits - Workshop & Floor.  Floor is intended to run things on the studio (or location) floor while workshop build them.  There's a fair cross-over between the two.   Floor have a 'Unit Truck' which is equipped with limited workshop facilities - welding, cutting, drilling so they can 'MacGyver' (If you're Floor & reading this, pretend I said 'Improvise' 😉) solutions to problems that occur and need instant fixes.  Anything major comes back to the workshop crew, although the fix might take place on the stage.

    For Location work (I spent the summer of 2019 in Tbilisi on F9) we will set up a decent workshop so much of the fabrication and all the repairs can happen locally.  Tbilisi was the first location I've been posted to.  It was very high pressure (and extremely hot!) - but great fun too.  The people in Tbilisi / Georgia were amazing!

    There's also an 'Action Vehicles' Department, usually separate to SFX - who deal with vehicles used on Camera.  There is a lot of colaboration between us as many of the vehicles are involved in Effects or have them built in.  We tend only to get involved in Vehicles directly when we're going to throw them, or blow them up!  On Hobbs & Shaw then Fast9 we worked very closely.  I'm nothing but impressed with their skill & attention to detail - it makes me feel a bit inadequate some of the time!  Vehicles is (obviously) staffed by Car enthusiasts, including a few LR ones!  For me, that's proven a useful ice-breaker as they can see I'm (almost) one of them!

    Have you found CGI taking away some of your trade or is it going the other way now? 

    I read about the Need for Speed film where they did all the stunts and action in real life and used zero CGI.

    Personally too much CGI just kills it for me...disaster movies after Independance Day had no wow factor :lol:

    • Like 1
  10. 16 hours ago, landroversforever said:

    That's what I love about Harry's video's. Be it a car review, talking about the farm, going into the facts and figures of his collection or facts and figures about ICE vs electric its always a balanced look at everything. None of the all too often youtuber rubbish where they're worried about saying the wrong thing and not getting another car, or they're reviewing something they know nothing about. Same reason why I like listening to people like Andrew Frankel, Clarkson et-al, not some youtube yuppy who's reviewing the latest supercar with no background knowledge.

     

    I do like clarkson as a writer, i think he's spot on with his way with words, as a person, he's abit of a pillock.

    • Like 1
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