Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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However if you want some doors to create your own lockers, i've used these to good effect;
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If we're doing bragging rights for films, i pee'd up the tree the kid climbs at the beginning of Robin Hood ( the Kevin Costner one ).
It's along Hadrians Wall if you feel inclined to do it as well
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I believe he was talking about cost, it’s a lot cheaper to go up a few feet than add foundations to extend it
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Axminster tools are very well made, if you can get to the shop itself, expect to leave with an empty wallet
It's a woodworking wet dream in there, i've come away with items i never even knew existed and further more never knew i needed!
Staff are very good and informative, if they're not sure they hunt down someone who is to talk to you, i've had nothing but good response's from them
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this is the result and it works much better, it doesn’t eliminate the wobble as they’re still cheapish sliders but it’s certainly an acceptable result
now to work on a final build of it
thank you all for your input
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Engine bay looks waaaaaaay to clean for my liking
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You is a clever bugger, i'm always marvelled at what you come up with
top job
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That could work as long as the material of the table is rigid enough.
The solution i've worked out is based on the L shape of 2 runners.
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4 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
Or put a small removable brace between the extended table and the panel opposite on the left hand side of your video?
I gave this a go, however as the one side which was braced is on a slider, it still moves
Looking a Simon's idea, i think i've cracked it with the lateral adjoining slider, i'll post up a mock later if i'm still sober
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i would need to remove that part of the table and include the missing bit as an anchor from the unit it'll fix to for that to work, but that's a simplier approach to the V idea.
But the leg would still foul the slider in the closed position
An extendable leg would make life simpler, but i'm using what's availble at the moment.
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Short video of it motion
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Here’s some pics.. I’ve been using scrap wood and hinges so ignore the state of it all, it’s a mock up to work on the space available and if I can get it work in the environment
First,folded away (picture needs turning 90 to the right)
Table in the upright position
then table moved into position to be near the seating
going on your idea Simon, the sticking point is the overall size of the table. The leg, when folded, sits beyond the point I could place another slider on the other plane to stop the flex.
I can’t make the table longer to move the leg away as there isn’t enough clearance on the floor
however your idea of a v rail might be possible, the downside is the table will be further into the living area if I pull it off. I may need to get the welder out to it as wood won’t necessarily work for the shape, but we’ll see
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Sorry, Paime spotted my comment and asked for it so it’s nestled in its new home now
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That is a good idea!
It does raise another problem though as the fold away leg folds up and meets the bottom of the drawer slider...if i were to mount another runner the other way i may need to move the entire table up 60mm to allow the leg to fold below the additional slider but then the leg would be too short to keep the table level
No hang on, if move the entire lot up a set distance and add to the table length and move the leg to the edge of the new length, it'll be level but may foul the floor.
I'll have a ply on this idea tomorrow as it won't cost me anything as i have 2 drawer sliders
btw was that a starwars film?
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I got the fridge mounted tonight amongst other things.
The build is such that any component can be removed without having to remove anything else, ie the fridge needs to be independantly mounted, as well as the water container and pumps, compresors, units etc etc.
Also, everything does one job. The webasto thermo top provides hot water only. The airtop provides heating and the other thermotop will provide engine preheat when i get round to it.
The water tank has it's own pump ( the shower system also has it's own pump ) and can be removed when not in daily use ( ie when not travelling ) and we use bottled water for drinking etc.
So the fridge was abit of a head scratcher. Firstly the model is a Dometic C30, which is the draw design. We went for this as stand up mini fridges end up with dead space as you can't fill up as such ( cans not included! ), the good thing about a draw is you can fill it up and it's low profile AND the compressor can be remotely fitted elsewhere. This is achieved with a 1.5metre insulated copper pipe connecting them. It's a delicate job, but worth it for space saving and getting the compressor out of the way.
So the idea i came up with was the 60litre water tank sits across the bed area at the rear door, above this sits the fridge and then i'll construct some units above this or re instate the unit fixed to the rear door, but i'll get to that another time.
The tank, as i said, is removable and won't be in use unless we're travelling and able to carry the water for long duarations. I haven't worked on a mounting system just yet but it will probably be a simple pair of ratchet straps bolted to the floor to keep the tank ties down as 60 litres of watertank can make a mess if it's allowed to fly about. The nice plumbing set up you see, is practical and not seen when the door is shut
From right to left we have a manual isolator for filling dog bowls with, then a t junction, the bottom section will attach to a hose which can feed the shower ( 1 way valve will be fitted to stop any contaminants from the shower pump getting into this tank ). the top section goes to the sink via 10mm barrier pipe. All fittings are pushfit and the first manual isolator swivels downwards incase you're wondering how i fill up the dog bowls The 12v pump is for the sink tap and will be wired with releasable connector.
The fridge has ply on one side as a leg and the other side required me to make a brace from 3mm steel and twist it and drill a hole so it could be bolted to the L shape bracket at the corner of the side panels of the Landy that the roof bolts through. Fiddling with the heights, i bolted another 3mm steel between the mounted holes at the side and welded a plate and bolted that through the web at the rear door.
This allows the fridge to ' hang ' from this side whilst bolted to the floor via the ply on the other side. it means i can remove the water tank without having to remove the fridge. The compresor is shown sat on the fridge but is now above it in a unit i've build across the rear door...i'll get more pics when that is finished.
I also come up with the idea for the table, but i'll cover that in another post once i get an idea of what slider to use.
I've also built and installed a unit on the other side above the compressor and airtop...but i'm still not sure on the electrics..it'll come to me soon
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My nightime reading has served me well then
although reading back he did say he was doing it in the previous postIs there an issue with that much weld in one area on the casing with the heat from the weld? It looks a pretty strong area to start with, not alot can move i guess
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I may be a tad uneducated in this, but have you just pegged the diff?
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It's bad enough you try to make a suitable living area out of a metal box, some bugger includes windows in it which condensate when the dog gets in and let all the warmth escape in the winter or heat the place up in the summer.
I loved my dormobile roof which had 2 big windows and 2 grp vents which opened to allow fresh air in....that was until i spent any time in the truck and now the grp vents are being boarded up and insulated and the windows will probably go the same way. It's not as if i spend anytime in the truck looking out of them...they point to the sky when the roof is closed and i'll give myself a hernia looking out of them when the roof is up
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I'll get some in the morning, too dark n scary outside at the moment
I looked at that idea, but i need the whole thing to be 500mm long and extend 500mm.
I could possibly pinch an extra 120mm and make the track 620mm which if i did something similar to you, i'd have 120mm holding it all together at full lock ( 500mm exposed )
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I do like it...in fact i like most of the Bowler stuff
The Bulldog is on my list of ' stuff i need to own/drive or steal '
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I'm putting this to the masses as someone may have some knowledge of an item that isn't going to cost the earth to mount a table.
In the rear of the build project, i have a table which folds away, however it also is needed to be pushed/pulled by approximately 500mmMy first idea was to use drawer runners, easily obtained and do what i want.
The weight of the table is taken up by a foldaway leg on the ' open ' side and the drawer runner on the fixed/hinged side allows us to eat our meals and play cards on it whilst holding up a pint or 2 of the good stuff.
However the issue is that the drawer runner is only present on one side of the table, as the other side is ' open ' and not fixed to anything ( it is hinged at the drawer runner )
This causes side to side movement as when the drawer runner is extended it becomes flimsy.
I've looked online for some more robust ideas ( https://gsf-promounts.com/product/ultio-8027-210-330-kg-pr-100-extension-aircraft-grade-aluminium-stainless/ )which seem to be a better option with more material to reduce flex, but it's still just shy of a £100 for a table slide!
Has anyone used drawer sliders which are heavy duty and have minimum side to side movement/flex?
The actual load bearing is not important as there'll be no more than a few kg on the table at any time
I can post a picture of the mock up i made today to get the idea if it helps visualize it
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I placed mine in a seperate cabinet in the rear quarter panel NS, however it's not used to hear the engine block, but to provide hot water and heating for the cab.
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On 1/11/2021 at 2:43 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
I lied, it's more like 130mm for the rails, mine are sitting ~15mm down from the rafters but it's probably possible to do a tighter job of it than I managed solo up a stepladder.
Just been out and waved the tape measure at it, the end of the tape is hard against the rafter:
Here you can sort of see the frame bolted to the rafters:
Loads more photos in the garage thread of course.
I fitted a similar system to the neightbours workshop/garage build i did last year, but they were horizontal openers as the entrance was over 4 metres. They're more suited to applications that allow space down one side for the door to move ( about 400mm is requried ) and of course the length needs to be more than the width of the door!
Size wise, probably the same price as it came in at £3500+VAT supplied( port holes were £120 each! ) we fitted them in a day and a half
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Spent some time insulating the now leakproof side panel on the truck and filling in lots of screw holes before fitting the AIrtop and the Compressor.
both these will sit inside a small unit with the ducting going into the main rear area and also up into the roof space for heating the sleeping area. I've ordered a movable flap for the ducting which will allow me to isolate the sleeping area or living area as an when needed.
The copex from at the bottom left is the airlines for the inflation system, the 22mm flexi is for the shower/hot water set up from the other Webasto thermo top ( see previous post somewhere on here ).
Wiring is my downside... i can never make it look tidy, it always looks like a birds nest so i'm still undecided where to put the fuse board for the rear. It was on the other side of the truck but to be honest, this side will need it more.
The compressor will be fused and hardwired to the batteries with the switch up front hidden away.
I need to extend quite a few cables, some from the lights, some from the Thermo top, pump etc...is there a place anyone gets their cable from?
I found vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk which do most sizes, but i'm not sure what is an average size to order? I don't need anything heavy duty, probably .5 to 1mm...it would be nice if i could order a ' beginners pack ' for wiring the truck
From right to left we have a manual isolator for filling dog bowls with, then a t junction, the bottom section will attach to a hose which can feed the shower ( 1 way valve will be fitted to stop any contaminants from the shower pump getting into this tank ). the top section goes to the sink via 10mm barrier pipe. All fittings are pushfit and the first manual isolator swivels downwards incase you're wondering how i fill up the dog bowls 
Harry’s Farm
in New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
Posted
It's growing on me if i'm honest, but i think it's overpriced for the majority of the tight fisted farmers i know.
A 10 year old pickup can be bought for 4-5k and run into the ground over the next 10 years with not alot of cost thrown at it, they are simply trucks and very cheap in comparision.