Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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No reason why the tyre can’t be used as well
The more footholds the merrier the traveller will be in times of need
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There is no live work.
80/100 amp fuse is pulled before tails from meter to a new metal JB for the connection of the SWA which runs to your new CU. Obviously it’s all done back to front and the connection is the last bit
I’m not savvy on Scottish building regs, so you don’t need a ticket for electrical works on planning builds?
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The electrician’s job is pretty simple in this situation if I’m honest and if you have a decent brain you can quite easily do it yourself, however, if it’s under planning it has to signed off.
If you don’t have a friendly electrician who knows your work then you’re paying for the ticket at the end.
It’s not rocket science for domestic installs, commercial is a different ball game.
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I stripped the bongo seat for the frame work as there’s some decent sized tube which makes it up.
At the base was a curved piece which would make a good step for the bars
cut it out and welded it onto the bar
the curved seat base had lots welded to it which needed removing, then tidying up. Welding 2 separate thickness bits together was a learning curve but it’s turned out all right.
The horizontal part is a perfect step up onto the bonnet now
I’m thinking of welding some loops to the underside of the bar in case I get a moose and need to strap it across the bonnet
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I’ve come cross a few I.D.Ten.Tee issues in the past. You can say it as much as you like because no one writes it down
I.D.10.T
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It is a snatch bullbar 👍
As for cooling, i'm not convinced there will be a problem.
I've removed a full sized A/C condenser which was slap bang in front the intercooler and radiator.
Also i've removed the surround which housed the front grill which took up a large part of the actual area availble for the radiator ( if you take the distance between the front wings, bumper and bonnet ).
I'm not saying it's better, but there hasn't been any difference in temperature that i've registered.
Snatch landrover bullbars have been used all over the world in all environments and as yet, i've not come across issues with them overheating. Even in NI we used them on 300Tdi's
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The bull bar has a spare wheel attached to it, it’s solid enough in its design and is bolted through the bumper by 8 bolts ( 4 through the front of the chassis, 4 into the bumper )
The bumper is a generic, not HD and I’ve welded some 3mm plate across the bottom where the bolts go through as well as horizontally inside the bumper to beef it up abit.
My thinking is, the bars along the wing down to the rock slider will absorb some movement should I bump anything head on as well as provide a wee bit of protection to the wings.
lastly, the bars are great for getting up onto the bonnet to access the box up top
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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Or these work well for that kind of bar:
Roll cage saddle.
I've ordered 2 from the guy who sold me the tube, cheers Lrf
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Also today my tube arrived for the extension down the side of the wing from the bull bar.
I had a rough idea of how i wanted it to look, and it was a simple case of cut it and see.
So i did and this is what i came up with;
A few spot welds
I shall weld it onto the bull bar. The other end is bolted to the rock slider. It does mean if i ever remove the bullbar, the 2 side bars are attached, but it's not the end of the world, i simply place the entire thing on the floor in situ. I couldn't come up with a neat feature to have the entire extra bar seperate.
Looking level;
Tomorrow i will make up the other side then weld them both up.
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The insurance is still on going, i'll update as it progress's.
In the meantime, it was time to work on the interior layout.
Most trucks have a bench seat down one side and the cupboards, sink,cooker down the other. In a van this works as it utilises the most amount of space, however it's terribly boring and if you do sit down for something to eat, you're staring at a wall of cupboards.
I got my thinking cap on and came up with a few ideas.
First one was to swap out the standard front seats for a bench seat. This would also make up part of the bed for the rear once it was folded down. If you fold the back rest down onto the base, you could create a seat base for the rear seats...
Second idea was to replace the standard front seats with a swivel mechanism. It would've been a fair bit of work as i would need to re arrange the seat box itself, but not impossible. The downside to this was the height issue. The front seats are low on the seat box and turned 180 degree's meant you would have to sit with your legs out in front of you rather than like a proper seat.
Those 2 ideas were ditched. The first because i came up with a different idea for a bed in the back and the second idea because the seating position wouldn't have been comfortable.
The third option is the one i went with.
Firstly i had to do a little job to the front seats. They lean back and lock and will lean to an upright position to lock but won't lean forwards and lock. The reason is there is a small pin on the seat base which moves out of alignment after the upright position. It allows the seat to ' flip ' forward. The design, i think, is due to having rear seats and no rear door in some 90 models. You gain access by flipping the front seat forward. I could be wrong. Anyway i needed to remedy this. Whipping out the welder, it was a case of welding a spot on the seat base which allowed the pin to stay in a position so you could lock the seat using the standard grooves. So i went from a maximum position of this;
to be able to lock it in this position;
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Once that was done to both seats, i was able to make up a seat box in the rear which had movable tops to allow it to be in ' travel ' mode and in ' stopped for the night ' mode. The seat box also had a sub fitted into cause i like loud music when i drive
For the rear seat, i needed a back rest, scratching my head i went with something simple.
I took a dog pen panel;
and cut it down by 6 inchs and re welded it to produce 2 panels which were then hinged at the bottom and fitted to the truck floor just behind the front seats;
together look like this;
Both panels are independant of each other and can be moved when each of the 2 front seats are forward or back.
In the below picture you can see the difference in the seat base's being in ' travel ' mode ( behind the driver ) and ' stopped for the night ' ) mode behind the passenger.
Overall view of the seating in the rear of the truck looking in from the rear. When we stop, the front seats get pulled forward, flipped and locked in position, seat base moved back and voila, we have a seat for the rear. Access is via the side doors and it's fairly easy to get in and out. The width of the seating is fully across the truck at 1400 and these cushions will double up as a bed base, which i'll cover later on in the build.
Lastly it's a picture of dog number 1 helping out again....
...it's a hard life being a Basset Hound
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I’m working full time 7 days a week on the conversion, I honestly have no idea how I would’ve got anywhere with it had I been working
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11 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Second the suggestion of clamping in piece of angle iron.
Also I've seen people sleeve tubes with a smaller piece or even just an offcut of flat bent into a circle to form a bridge across the join.
I was considering using flat bar ( as i have a few bits ) cut down to the ID and wedged in to help line the 2 pieces together.
Saying that a scrounge around the workshop is bound to find some tube that might be persuaded to fit
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12 hours ago, landroversforever said:
You're quite a way from them but Blackbird Industries (our very own @discomikey) would be able to bend from a sketch.
If it was a roll cage or something quite important or beyond my scope i'd consider it, but i like a challenge on simple project to whet my appetite
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Never seen one of these before, they don't look too bad.
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25 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Find a difference insurance co.
NFU have been great in the past, I know there’s only one in the office and she’s unsure, hence the current situation.
I’m not driving it at the moment as I’m at home for another 8 weeks, so it’s not an inconvenience, more that it’s going to cost to get a report done.
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21 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Why would a bolt-on piece like the roof have anything to do with IVA? You can unbolt the entire Defender body and swap it without an IVA.
I thought, and perhaps wrongly, that IVA’s cover structural differences to a vehicle?
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The insurance company are throwing a little wobbler regarding my roof.
Even though dormobile supply these roof’s as a kit, they want some form of documentation relating to it which I can’t supply as it was 2 nd hand.
Advised not to use it on a public road until they get someone to look at it or I get relevant documentation.
Might be worth looking into the IVA route
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I made a frame for the rear door to house the sliding kitchen unit, and whilst I was at it I had a go with 2 pieces of 3mm steel welding together.
Prepped by putting a chamfered edge like Stephen said and did it in short runs rather than one big one.
cross section shows I got the penetration 👍
now to order the tube
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I love a challenge too
I've gone for 3mm instead of 1.5mm which matches the bullbar.
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38 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
Make sure you grind a nice champher on your pipe fittings so when you butt them together there is a nice V to fill with weld also joint will remain strong once you've blended the joints with a flap disc regards Stephen
Thank you, good point 👍
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Any tips for welding the pipe together?
spot weld the separate parts in the correct position then slow welds, ie not doing the full circumference in one go, move from one joint to another to let the previous one cool before going back.
I've not welded 2 flat pieces together yet, let alone 2 bits of pipe
I’ll get some practice in tomorrow on some thin steel box section
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Jobs a good ‘un
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That’s a good tip
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With some of these replies, it makes it sound like you live in a very dodgy area!
I'd have it open inwards to the right against the wall. Maximum visual upon entering the building, no chance of the wind catching it on a windy day and takes up no room within the building as the area in front of a door is classed as dead space.
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New workshop project
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Live work in my opinion is working on live cables from distribution to the meter/isolator, after that you isolate the supply, therefore not live.
It’s horses for courses, what you’re happy doing, you do