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Posts posted by Badger110
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I did think that, but they seem to sell quite well, so i may just sell them on and buy the earlier style split doors
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We are currently 'learning' how to spray a land rover roof.
It's certainly an experience and one which i am sure i'll get the hang of soon.
There are no pictures to accompany this transition at the moment, and all other pictures supplied in the future will probably be from a distance of 300 yards or more 😂On a serious note, it is completely new to me, this kind of spraying. I've worked on houses and clubs quite abit with our spray equipment, but vehicle paint is NOT forgiving. i'm using our baby sprayer ( Graco HVLP 9.5 Turboforce2 Procontractor ) to do it which is a very competant sprayer and perhaps not the normal compressor style, but it works on a 5 stage turbine to provide the air. It has full settings available for air and fluid and 3 different needle sizes. I went for the largest to really reduce the fluid at the tip. It's understanding how the paint reacts and settles to the roof that is the biggest learnign curve. Preperation was good but i cocked it up in a few places by not cleaning it down properly so when the paint settled it left huge marks where it reacted to something still on the roof.
I have run out of paint, so ordered some more and will continue to plug away at it until i get it right.
I'm not expecting professional results but i'll be happy if it's passable and at least even on the roof.
The downside is the underside of the roof which i see when driving...this is the most difficult place to spray and will be the most visible to me!
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I couldn't find em anywhere!
happy without the remote tbh, damn thing plays up anyway and it's one more thing to go wrong when you don't want it to.
However, does anyone know of a single piece door with sliding windows? Or could they be retro fitted from an older door?
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I do like the older windows with the slide section rather than the electric ones i have currently.
I can't seem to find later style doors that incorporate the sliding windows of the Series. Happy to have a lift up handle as well.
Does anyone know if it's possible to buy them off the shelf?
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I can confirm these are bomb proof
https://www.heavy-duty-designs.co.uk/downloads/Universal 4x4 Pick Up.pdf
has them in our vans for years and never replaced them and they get all sorts on thme including screwdrivers sticking in them, hot food/drink, paint, oil, glue and are fart resistant 👍
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Everyday’s a school day, cheers landroversforever 👍
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7 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Imagine the contacts of a switch... if you keep getting sparks across it you wear it out. It’s the same concept as that. The dielectric fluid it’s bathed in controls how it works. From memory it’s there to stop it arcing and then just sticking together. It means you can make the electrodes all sorts of funky shapes and it will make a hole that shape. Be it a bar with a hex on the end up to massive 3D shapes.
I think i might point you over there
👈
to my avatar for my initial response to your reply 😂
However it's not becasue you're not explaining it correctly, more to the point, my brain isn't understanding it.
i didn't know electrical sparks cause erosion of sorts, but is that what you're saying?
As in the title of the thread dumbass! <--my brain again
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Without sounding too thick, and i'm sure i'm not the only one, but how does it work?
Does it melt the metal grub screw?
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Defender still has iffy aerodynamics though, so fuel economy isn't going to be as great as the jag.
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I have no idea what was done here, but it looks cool 😎
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My xs spec 2011 has wind up windows in the rear.
I can't see how you can get electric windows to fit in the rear, the door angle is to sharp near the bottom for the windows to open fully without the rails fouling it?
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2 hours ago, Cynic-al said:
Thanks for the links, I will watch those!
I did, after trawling through to find the ' basics to mig welding ' ones, explained it all fairly simply.
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Can anyone explain a MIG gasless welder?
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Indeed it does, i'll come back to it tomorrow with a clear head
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Sometimes the day just isn’t meant to happen.
loaded up the GRP roof to realise the material has been stuck and fixed on upside down 🤬🤬 had to remove it, including all the glue, staples and strips.
Also the linear actuators are too long to replace what’s there as they push the roof horizontally as the angle is nearly 90 degree in their parked position.
A simple error but annoying that I made it in the 1st place. I can re position them or order some smaller ones.
Time to walk away and do something else and come back with a clearer head in a day or two 😀
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I'll be following this with interest. I've got to make a sub frame in my roof and i know three fifths of f*ck all about welding!
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They say 5.7mm sec rated at 150kg lifting so they are over specced for the amount they are lifting (65kg between 2 of them ).
However I’ve not fitted them as yet so I’m only going on the short bench test.
I did a quick check on a 18v battery and the speed is much better which is to be expected
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Perfectly explained, thank you lo fi 👍
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I picked up some linear actuators for my roof project, they weren't expensive so i wasn't expecting them to be amazing, however they will do what i want them to do but they are a tad slow.
400mm extended takes 1min and 20 seconds with a direct 12v feed. This is under no load. ( imagine the scene from Despicable Me when the old guy goes to leave everyone on his motorized scooter. It feels that slow )
I have seen speed controllers but i can't see how a speed controller can make the motor work any quicker when it's already pulling 12v from the battery, but perhaps i have this wrong?
I'm not that clued up when it comes to motors n power stuff, can anyone explain the simple terms of increasing the speed of the motor, if at all possible?
Increase in voltage ?
other options are to change the gearing, but i haven't taken one apart just yet to see if this is possible
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As said, a local timber yard or somewhere that you can talk to someone who has some idea of what they are selling.
Builder's yards are ok, but if you want something like BB ply, they don't usually stock it unless it's phenolic ply.
All plywood has it's use's for different applications though, you can buy some flimsy softwood core stuff from Asia which isn't good for panelling, but will suffice as a base layer for stiffening up a floor before tiling.
It really does depend on what you want it for. Structural plywood has good shearing stabiltiy but can be 3mm laminates and you would use it behind plasterboard to strengthen a wall.
BB plywood is the best at 1.5mm laminate size, however that comes in grades from A to E with A being best.
I've found lately that asian plywood is good for work that can't be seen, ie providing structure or mass to a project.
Russian or Eastern European is better for the above but with a seen finish
That said, OSB is brilliant alternative to plywood in some applications, ie roof or walls. It isn't as good for any shearing applications ( squaring off walls ) as it's grab ( fixing through it with a nail/screw ) isn't as strong but you can compensate with using a glue to bond it to the frame work as well.
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5 minutes ago, ballcock said:
I have read that and others that all point to needing a W bus or Can bus signal hence my previous posts. But as I am always willing to learn I shall see if my unit will power on with a 12v feed to the plug. The unit I have came out of a VW.
The issue with your previous post was that i read it and in my rush to reply, forgot it.
Which just means i'm a little slow this evening
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7 hours ago, Cynic-al said:
It's the same old with politics in the uk, the people making the rules understand neither the problem or the real world. How one can go from being in charge of health, then the army then education is beyond me. They are only interested in the next few years. Anything that takes longer reflects on their successor not them so there is no motivation for them to lay the foundations for something sustainable.
Sums up climate change attitudes of those with wealth to a tee 🤬
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1 hour ago, Red90 said:
You just need to supply 12V, so very easy.
It's not unfortunately. It requires a timer which outputs a W bus signal to start.
1 hour ago, ballcock said:As far as I know the Thermotop V requires a W bus signal or Can bus to operate. Please enlighten me otherwise.
Have a look here;
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic118254.html
Rare bird found on a council estate
in International Forum
Posted
I'd say the bugger was in luck, less chance of being shot on a council estate