Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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1 hour ago, Daan said:
Badger 110 and L19Mud are currently leading the charge, any more takers?
Daan
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I’m toying with toyo’s too, they get good reviews
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Beautiful job Stephen, have sent my bid in!
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We looked at material for the seating yesterday as although i do love the ' old-multicoloured-curtains-made-into-cushion-covers ' look of it, Nikki has quite categorically told me no.
Time to get the sewing machine out and get a crash course on youtube seamstress course's!
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Knowing how easy it was to make these, i'm sure there's a market for this sort of thing if you have the proper tools to bang them out at a decent rate!
With some carpet on, they do the job and won't fall apart.
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Nikki's mini before she met me, built by her ex
Typically with old relationships it all got ugly and this one ended up in London i believe.
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19 minutes ago, mpb said:
I’ve been looking here because I need to replace mine
https://www.buildersmerchant.com/product/anti-slip-mesh-phenolic-resin-plywood-18mm/
I can tell straightaway that is not a good quality phenolic plywood, the picture alone tells you their using a sub standard plywood with dead areas.
I've said in the past on my build thread, don't skimp on buying good plywood if you want it to last.
Buffalo board uses a BB graded plywood which is just shy of joinery graded ply...ie it's strong and produced as tight as it can be with correct glues and processing.
Stick with the branded Buffalo Board, not any old brown phenolic plywood which claims to be Buffalo board, it isn't and will fail.
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5 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Been following your Instagram photos so great to see it with the captions
Instagram makes life so much simpler when posting up, but it's nice to interact with folk who've followed from the beginning
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The offside was the trickier part and if i'm honest i didn't know how i was going to do it, until i got there.
The remit was to provide a bed for Nikki to sleep on as i usually bunk up top and she was on the floor with the dog!
The rear storage was a mirror of the nearside and the upper storage, again a mirror but i had to adjust it slightly to allow me to gain access to the top bunk.
After a few ideas, i came up with a simple slide out base which gives 700mm width when open and 400mm when closed and utilises some storage underneath.
As a side note, the actual bed base then turned into a small bench seat which wasn't planned, but as the cushions and size when closed, it all kind of worked.
It did mean the top storage went down to 2 instead of 3 compartments and i created more storage areas with a solid back too.
Also to note, the bed on the offside coincides with main bench seat being available to give the full length ( 1.7m ). In an emergency you can just crash out on it
So that's the main build done. I basically carpeted the entire inside before building the units so it's nice n snug. I redid a lot of the wiring, tidying it up and making it neater and simpler in places.
I fitted some USB ports in the back, extra lights and also made a cubby box for the front which sits above the integrated subwoofer
The area just above the driver/passenger heads used to house some speakers, but i ditched them and redid the area to include more storage
I shall provide some more pictures when it stops raining and i get the roof open again, until then, thanks for reading!
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The seating area was a direct replacement for what was already there.
When driving it is folded away and when stopped it is opened and provides a full width bench seat.
This time i removed a 3rd auxiliary battery as it really wasn't needed and sunk the batteries into the floor to give me some space to store stuff above it.
The seating looks like this when folded up
In case you're not sure how the rear bench seat works, it goes like this;
In open position, the main 2 front driver and passenger seats are slid and folded forward. I did have to make a spot weld on the seat mechanism which allows me to ' hold ' the seat in the forward position as standard landy seat frames just fold forward after a certain point.
This allows the rear bench seat to unfold like this
With the cushions which are stored up top ( and are also the bed for up top too )
Voila, you have a bench seat the full width of the Landy!
Hang on you ask, why is there only 2 cushions? Well it's to show that the bench seat is also a split seat which means you can have one of the front seats in it's normal position. This works when i'm travelling solo and don't need to adjust both seats
Underneath the offside seating is the compressor, battery 2, MPPT controller and lots of wires!
With a false floor to hide it and allow storage
The nearside is the same, but with the fusebox, inverter, charging relay and battery 1
So that's the bench seat explained, now onto the offside of the Landy!
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There are some benefits to being ill with covid and stuck at home for 3 weeks, it gave me the opportunity to redo the rear of the truck.
I've spent some time in the past coming up with ideas and thinking of how/what scenarios i would need them in and in the end, none of them really worked in real life.
I built the last idea of the truck on the basis we'd be in it...in the end we spent 90% of the time when parked up, sat outside it and rarely used the interior that much. When i used the truck on a course for a week, it did work really well, but the sink and cooker were a waste of space if i'm honest as when you want to cook outside, you had to move it all around.
So the rebuild of the interior remit was as follows;
To be able to sleep 2 people and a basset hound.
Storage for all our gear, clothes, food for extended periods
Comfortable and warm if we need to sleep in it.
Cooking would be done with our hiking gear ( Primus cookers ) and water would be from a container only.
Lighting and power where needed.
So first up was to dismantle the rear of the truck and examine what i had to play with, take some measurements and pop down to a local place to use their CNC machine.
I cheated a little here using the CNC machine as normally i'd do all that work myself ( being a wood butcher ), however it's sometimes easier on the mind and time, to give it to someone who has the ability to do it quicker and it's less stressful
Armed with some drawings, i came up with some ideas of how it was going to look and asked them to cut out the facia's of the storage units with the doors and hinge recess's done for me.
Picked these up the following day and began the build on the near side first.
The floor was the original celotex (30mm ) and the walls were already lined with 10mm acoustic
I began by mocking up the idea i had, which was quite a loose idea, but one i knew i could change as i went along.
My first thought as i did this was the compressor wasn't in the right place anymore, so i removed it. I was also going to move the webasto as well, but in the end left it in the same position
This is a top down view of the near side showing the webasto and compressor before i moved the later
Some of you will notice that the Webasto has been replaced by a chinese version, this is because one turned up brand new for 70quid, and as the webasto is due a service, i fitted this one. Everything is pretty much the same except the controller, which if i'm honest, is better than the webasto as it has a manual pump override for priming the system!
The nearside was finalised with storage to the rear, 3 top storage areas which also work as a work space when the roof is up and storage underneath the work space for cooking etc
No laughing at my picture. I like it.
Next up is the seating for the rear area
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Thinking on it a little more, it doesn't look that difficult to fashion something up as it's a flat panel with 2 bends in it.
I have some thin aluminium which if i could bend at the correct places, cover it in carpet, job's a good un.
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hmm. looks like i'll be fashioning something up with hardboard, vinyl and a few beers then
Something ' might ' turn up at newbury next weekend.
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The good thing about asking this sort of questions is, i get to come back and answer it myself
What did i do?
F. all as i found something else to do and now the Landy is getting all my attention, the trailer is out in the yard looking bit forlorn
I will get round to this conundrum in the next month once i finished the job i started on the landy 3 years ago...so not long to wait for an update
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Bit late to the thread, but over the past 10-15 years i've owned most of the Bosch 18v & 12v ( or 10.6v as it was labelled due to copyright infringements back then ) cordless and corded tools for work and i wouldn't recommend anyone buying their professional tools anymore.
The quality of the components are bad compared to what they once were, which is a shame as i still have a 15 year old 2kg SDS drill which just keeps on going no matter what i make it do.
Milwaukee seem to be the best unless you want to pay silly money for Festool or Mafell.
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you might want to plug the ends up too...you'll lose some heat otherwise
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I'm stumped and not for the lack of trying to find them, but is there such a thing as a door card for a 2nd row split door with anti burst locks?
I've found the fronts, but the 2nd row ones are all later style with either manual wind up window or electric window.
No need to be original, aftermarket will do, and even SP4x4 who seem to be the only one's who make these doors anymore, don't sell a suitable door card.
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I do remember watching a program about RR engine's where they mimic something entering an engine on full chat, i believe it was part of the outer casing or it may have been a blade failure...certainly made a mess!
Found it!
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Moving along with the trailer, i need to upgrade the charging system.
I've installed another 100W solar panel, which makes 2 and i have a twin input solar MPPt controller i picked up which is then wired into the battery.
However i want to fit Electric hook up as well as utilise the vehicle charging output via the grey towing plug when on the move.
Do i need a 3 way ( like this; https://simplysplitcharge.co.uk/3-Way-Chargers/nds-power-service-gold-30-tripple-charger-30amp-dc-dc-20amp-mains-240v-250-watt-solar.html ) or can i just wire a 240v > 12v battery charger ( like this https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/victron-blue-smart-ip22-battery-charger-12v-15a-1-output-bluetooth-built-in.html ) for hook up duties via a consumer unit. Also wire in the alternator feed to the batteries and keep the solar MPPT controller to provide the solar aspect or are they all likely to argue which each other and i end up blowing something up?
I did have a 12v battery charger in the truck which was via a Electric hook up, solar via a MPPT and a split relay for the DC>DC charging and it all worked, but the battery charger went wonky, i'm not sure if it was because i had it set up this way or a duff unit ( i suspect the later )
I'm happy to pay out for something which will work and do the job, but if it's a waste of money then i'll be happier to keep it simple
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After building them, they were overkill and 40mm box section would've been more than adequate. The bracing does serve to keep the middle board in check and thus continuing to give the rest a little more bracing too.
Finished result;
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10 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Glad you took it in the spirit it was intended... as a general rule you can often spot the "base" part of the actual link, often there's a question mark that denotes the start of all the extra nonsense. The most pernicious is ?fbclid= followed by a vast load of gibberish which is facebook's all-seeing eye following everything and everyone who clicks that link.
The other offender often seen round here is eBay:
Becomes simply:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281169865875
Happy internetting!
You learn something new everyday
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All that work but couldn't be arsed to line up the wipers
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One thing i found with FHbrundle is their price's are pretty good.
The hinges i picked were £36 EACH on another site...£20+VAT for a pair on FHbrundle's site...bargain
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On 1/16/2022 at 10:14 AM, Glue said:
Any further developments with this experiment?
It works, rather well in fact.
After playing around with pipe diameter into the unit, a 10ID pipe works best with the pump i have ( sureflo ) to provide enough pressure to trigger the ignition.
I would say about 1 -1.5 litre's to get to a decent showering temperature (32C) and after that, it's down to how much you want to use.
Is it worth it? I'd say yes if you're using gas for cooking or are happy to use it specifically.
There are many different versions, cheap and expensive but with the history of these units being in caravans, i think it's perfect for what i wanted.
Jez on the rescue to ukraine
in International Forum
Posted
Just like Pop Master, if i win, can i get a signed photo?