Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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19 minutes ago, missingsid said:
Presumably that is a change to a different striker and anti burst plate?
Indeed, the kit comes with everything including the older style striker
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Not a fan of SP4x4, they're door replacements for the defender ( series split doors ) are not as they say ' a direct replacement ' without a lot of work and having to seal them together with silicone to stop them leaking.
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Bloody good idea that...well done.
As the seat isn't load specific you can get away with these neat little tricks
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Lo and behold injector number 4 looks like it wasn't doing a shocking lot...
Compared to the other 3...
After a closer look it looks like the washer had given way at some point, the top one is injector 3 and the bottom is injector 4. You can just see where there is a crease or shallow point in the washer itself. The injector holes were cleaned and as far as I'm aware re seated when the head was sent away...regardless it's going to need doing again so I've ordered the tools to do it, hopefully they'll be here tomorrow
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A few notable things have happened over the past few days, one being sat in the hospital having metal bits removed from ones eyeball due to some rogue bits getting in there even though I wear glasses when grinding and a mask when welding. It's bloody sore and still impossible to see correctly out of the one eye for some time I've been told ( 3-5 days from yesterday ) but the good news is they did get the ' rust ring ' out too which rarely happens when a piece has been absorbed by the cornea for 4-5 days.
The other notable thing is the damn injectors are leaking AGAIN! I've spent a lot off money and time on this bloody engine and I'm beginning to get a tad fed up with it...it's not a particular difficult engine but it does seem to have it's plethora of gremlins. The rocker housing is producing large amounts of pressure and causing the release valve to spew oil out, the outlet pipe is swimming in oil and I'm getting oil spots from the exhaust. I can only assume it's the injector seals which will cause pressure in this area so I've ordered a set of original seals at £10.50 each and a set of stretch bolts which I'll do tomorrow.
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Top stuff Stephen
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21 hours ago, smallfry said:
As an aside, tyres should always go on, and come off the front (outside) of a one piece roadwheel. The well in the rim is shaped the way it is for this purpose.
The rear bead is nearly always harder to break, and I believe the inner rim might be slightly bigger. Not sure though, and its definitely harder to get a tyre off the back
I believe I should always do things the most convoluted arse about face way, so that when I do it correctly, I feel I've earned a badge before hand
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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:
Yep - buy the ones you like the look of 😂
What he said 👍
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This is the stuff, it's basically cargo net but a fraction of the price you would pay in any 4x4 orientated shop or outlet and will come with sewn seamed edges.
It's less than £30 for 3sqm.
I was lucky and picked up a huge sheet of it for free
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I came across a golf net which is what is used in front of golfers who want to practice their swings. If you hunt around you can pick them up pretty cheap and they’re about 3sqm in size
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23 hours ago, Anderzander said:
Can I ask what people use and recommend for stoves and cookware? I need to upscale to some more family friendly set up for in the back of the Land Rover and would welcome any input people have.
On the cookware - I’m reading endless reviews that all seem to point at different products. Something that packs down well would be good and we are going to need pans, plates/bowls, cutlery and a kettle.On the kettle thing - I did quite fancy a Kelly kettle, I’d enjoy a fire and the base camp edition has quite a lot of stuff in it ….. but I’m not sure how it compares to the convenience of a gas stove. If we want to stop for lunch and then move on again, I’d imagine finding fuel to get it going and then getting it to cool down might be a bit of an undertaking - compared to turning the gas on and making a quick sausage sandwich.
Although I answered I didn't pay much attention to your opening post, but that's just my ability to have the attention span of a gnat at times!
If I were you in this situation ( which I have ) I would start with something very simple. Grab 2 pans from the kitchen that you ( or the other half ) always uses, that's a basis to what size you want, usually a 9" and a 13" pan is more than enough and stick them in the truck. Once you, or your other half, realise you can't live without them pans in the house, buy some new ones to replace them as old pans are great for the back of the truck and camping
Now you know what sizes work for you, then look for a 2 gas burner and tbh anyone will do. They all do pretty much the same job of taking gas from a bottle and feeding it though a burner, but the size of the cooker will make the ability to use both pans, or a frying pan and small pan, easier so that's what I'd be looking for. Obviously don't buy something from Wish.com for £12, spend a little but after £50 or so they all do the same thing ( look for adjustments on the flame if possible on reviews, there are some proper connoisseurs of chef camping who like to waffle on about flame adjustments
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As for quick cuppas, you can't go wrong with a Primus Lite or Jetboil type gas burner. They all fit inside the ' cup ' and are a doddle to use as well as boiling 500ml of water in under 3 minutes give or take depending on altitude and outside temperatures ( not that I think it'll be an issue for you in this scenario ). They can run on 100ml gas canisters which will last for 30-40 500ml boil ups.
As for a Kelly kettle, it's a great idea and worth it. I found an old whistling kettle in a charity shop for £2 and I chuck that on a fire. It's still working several years later and has served us proud even if it is a little black, but makes a banging hot chocolate
If you want compact bijou fold up shiny camping gear then go with whatever looks good to you, again they all do the same thing of keeping food in one place and stop the peas escaping or the alcohol in a container until you can drink it.
Let us know how you get on
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On 6/30/2021 at 1:09 PM, smallfry said:
I didnt realise they still made them ! I nearly bought one new in early 1990s. I had driven a battered old one off road only and was impressed with its capability, so thought it would be OK. Then I test drove the new one at a dealer. It was so harsh and vibratory that I changed my mind, also the interior was much as Happyoldgit describes 😄
They still hold their value it seems, we had one rock up at the overland show for sale at £6500 😳
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We use a seers petrol cooker ( or Coleman as they’re known this side of the pond ), a primus lite for the water boiling and a msr spider when using the gas canisters
we did have a gas job but switched to petrol as it’s universally available wherever you are in the world
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My answer would be why not? It’s not a huge expense and unless it’s been done before, I’d say go for it.
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19 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Wolfs are 6.5" which is measured as the width at the bead, not the entire width of the wheel if that makes sense?
Makes perfect sense, cheers 👍
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I need another rim as the spare is a standard steel tubed and not suitable but it has thrown up a discrepancy.
The markings on the rims are standard wolf numbers
but the size stamped doesn’t equal the actual measurement of the rim
Searching around the tinternet Wolfs came in the 6.5” rim, as stamped, but not 7.5?
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12 hours ago, deep said:
For breaking the bead in the bush, using a Hi Lift jack and the weight of the vehicle allows the force to be concentrated exactly where it's needed. Well done for learning that skill!
I did try the jack idea with a scissor jack as I don’t have a hi lift, but couldn’t get the bead to break.
I attempted different areas of the tyre and used some wood to spread it to see if that helped but all I did was end up lifting the truck up!
I’m sure they’re is a knack to it including working my way around the wheel with the jack and if it comes to needing to do it ‘ out there ‘ without the standard flip flop wearing local changing the tyre with a crowbar and screwdriver I’m sure I’ll get the hang of it now I know the practical sides to it.
Thinking back on it today I reckon removing it via the facing side will save some tyre lever scrapes to the wheel face but other than that I can’t see much of a benefit to going either way?
Overall the idea is to carry one spare wheel and a spare tyre; wheel for emergencies and tyre for other times when we have time to change it.
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8 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
Looking good. I have some genuine, unused Wolf rims sitting waiting for mine. I am currently on 235/85 BFG AT on Boosts but they have been on for six years and are definitely wearing. I would love the 255/85 profile too as I like the slightly taller stance. I see you have opted for MT. What mix of tarmac, gravel, sand etc. are you expecting? I wonder if I would notice a change in noise from AT to MT and would a brand change at the same time also affect it?
They're a stop gap until the end of the year when we'll put something new on
I wanted to get a feel for these as I've only heard good things about them, but I'm undecided on Toyo Open country and these but I was lucky that Threepointfive had some available at a good price, so here we are
I've used standard factory tyres, Insta Turbos, XZL's and now these.
XZL's were my favourite so far
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After finally collecting some rubber corners from @ThreePointFive it was time to fit them.
i had done some calculations and figured if I went for metric equivalent of the current 7.50 x 16’s with a little more width I could ditch the spacers and get a good fill to the arch’s.
My calulations we’re a little off I think as these fill the wheel arch’s and make the other tyres look like mini wheels!
They do look good though 😁
With a good overlanding vehicle it’s always good to prep for every eventuality and one thing is being able to swap tyres on the rims and I had 5 attempts to get it right 😏
Not many pictures as I was sweating my arse off doing it and with Nikki we managed to get a good routine going.
Wheel off ready to for the bead to be broken which is the hardest part. Forget limp hammers, forget sledge hammers, forget using the weight of the truck with a scissor jack to push the bead off, it took Nikkis truck and Nikki stood on the opposite side of the rim to drive her Mitsubishi onto the wheels to break the bead and a few attempts until we had a good rhythm to getting it break . We found the inside rim more difficult than the outer rim...not sure if that’s a normal thing?
Gettig the tyre off , we went from the outside first and removed the rim through the back of the tyre which turned out to be the most awkward part after the bead breaking.
Still we got them off
Putting the tyres back on was pretty much a doddle and the opposite of removing them and I’m not sure why they are easier to put on but hey ho they are 😁
We have had a few discussions about white lettering inside or outside and as Nikki choose the colour of the truck I won this one and got to keep the white lettering out of sight 😁
ive still got the spacers on but they’re coming off
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You can purchase extenders for that channel, but a quick google search came up empty
Also you haven't stated what year your truck is, different years produce different issues, especially with the Puma heater dumping water into the footwell if the overflow is blocked
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On 6/23/2021 at 7:34 AM, Bowie69 said:
Another promo video dropped:
Interesting
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11 hours ago, simonr said:
You could improve matters by having a bigger reservoir of water in the heater / PHE loop. Then, even if the heater shuts down (which will take longer), you still have a bigger store of heat to warm the PHE so long as you keep the webasto circulating pump running.
I'm in a similar area where I have a 5l expansion tank filled 3/4's full and approximately 2metres of 22mm pipe work.
Extending this pipework will in effect do 2 things, 1; it'll increase the amount of water required to heat up and 2; take longer to do this by allowing heat to dissipate along the pipework.
Overiding the pump won't be possible without looking into what you are achieving with your mini pc gizmo things...
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Not sure how I missed this and it's this weekend
I'm having discussions with Nikki if we can get a dog sitter for our 2 this weekend and we may be there, however the link on the SLRC site for tickets isn't working though, all I get is a blank page?
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In my shower set up I use the cold water feed side of the PHE (plate heat exchanger, the Webasto side heats up the water ) to allow the hot side to remain at temperature but I found it keeps going beyond the cut off as the PHE gets hot and the input cold water cannot override the temperature increase and thus I end up with a cold shower ( Webasto shuts down ).
However I have no idea how this side of electronics work but the idea is brilliant for this kind of thing.
I can get around my issue by taking quick showers or even extending the Webasto closed loop side of the PHE or removing the jacket, even mounting the PHE outside of the vehicle underneath so it can drop heat.
)
Brand new Cat Flap
in Series Forum
Posted
The striker plate had to have new holes drilled in the C pillar and took some faffing to get it to close correctly, but this wasn’t helped by the doors being poorly manufactured in the first place