Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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I'm dubious about the roof tent position causing that much of an issue on a tarmac road at approx 55kg weight of the tent on a roof rack.
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I can take some more if you like.
The actual ' box ' area is some 2mm aluminium cheque plate bent into a shape to make a box and sealed shut.
Nothing fancy, but practical
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22 hours ago, Blanco said:
Or somewhat more affordably This, just take the ferry to France instead of the direct route?
There's some interesting stuff there!
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I've missed this thread...looking good as usual Stephen
I can't wait to see it installed!
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Looks legit
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This machine was used to place a new railway bridge at a project i was on recently.
The bridge itself was constructed on a separate framework using a large mobile crane and then the multi wheeled base drives underneath that frame, picks up the bridge and is then ' driven ' to place the bridge in position.
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I have Melville & Moon covers in olive green
They look nice and certainly protect the seats
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Turn the wheel around and bolt it on backwards, it's what I did.
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We have one I see locally, it's certainly a head turner
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Spurred on by @Wytze 's enthusiasm to see some progress I sat down on my stool in the workshop and began the rebuild.
First off the bits had all arrived from Turner's
as well as a new spigot bush.
Main bearings went in without a hitch and were torqued up with the help of Nikki hanging off the end of the bar on the last setting or in layman's terms ' FT '
The con rod's turned out to be a trial as for some reason I'd mixed up the end caps. I swear by all that's mighty I put everything in order when I took it apart but for some reason, they ended up not in order.
This caused me some grief as the crank was binding when I first torqued up the caps.
After lots of head scratching and checking the bearings, piston orientation, weather and how much I'd had to drink, It twigged that the fracture line wasn't looking right.
You may think I had swapped number 1 for 4 but oh no, I'd gone and done it good n proper by swapping 1 for 3 and 4 for 2....how that is even possible??
Anyway, they all got sorted and with liberal use of the sticky stuff, the crank and con rods were torqued up
The wellies in the background are for oil leaks incase you're wondering
Secondary ladder was fitted as well as oil pump, chain and pick up and shiny new spigot bush
After this the rear crankshaft seal went on
then the sump and flywheel.
Forgetting I'd added a fair bit of weight to it, I flipped it over straining my left testicle and broke wind all at the same time
a couple thou was honed off the face but wasn't necessary on the block, but it was a piece of mind thing for me.
I now need a DTI to get the TDC and check piston protrusion so I've ordered one off amazon to arrive on Tuesday.
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23 hours ago, Wytze said:
Ten day's in... is your engine back yet?
Nope!
All the parts have arrived, however life gets in the way with moving the house back around and work being rather busy.
As soon as I make a concerted effort to start, I'll be posting pics n stuff
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On 8/18/2021 at 8:54 AM, Stellaghost said:
Alnwick is also very nice and if you like books Barter books is the largest second hand bookshop in Europe
Definitely a visit from me when we're up that neck of the woods 👍
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This is interesting as I was looking to replace the bearing shells on mine ( TDCI ) when I put it back together, however I'm now thinking it might not be a home job to do as I'm using the original crank.
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I found some remnants of the vacuum pump in the oil pan, right underneath the drain plug so were never drained by an oil change, small 3-4mm chunks of plastic which had melted within it and entered the oil ways.
Looking around the block I can’t see any more bits but knowing they’re in the oil, I’ve decided to strip it down completely and get it down to the engine shop to be thoroughly cleaned and a light hone to the block and head.
We’re off to Scotland in 3 weeks time and I’ve a contract to complete in the next 2 weeks so it’s looking like some late nights to be had 😁
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Although mine looks completely different, it’s mainly the same truck
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On 8/15/2021 at 8:15 AM, Anderzander said:
I think a change of plan ….. the forecast is wet, humid, and no wind up the north west coast for the next few days …. And the midges are out in force.
So I think we are going to head across to the Cairngorms … none of us feel like being eaten !
Sensible option!
If you went north to the tip, Durness has a good campsite and the local shop sells everything you need including the stuff you thought you never needed.
The hot chocolate shop down the road is worth a visit as well as Cape Wrath.
Enjoy the Cairngorms
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Tis a thing of beauty knowing what it came from, top stuff
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On 8/14/2021 at 1:28 PM, landroversforever said:
Do yours not pull round tight to tension it?
Yup and I'm not a small bloke when it comes to pulling things
I reckon my truck isn't square but the tuff trek on that falls just short of the rear by about 75mm and on the trailer it's about 50mm for the Howling Moon hobby
The tuff trek does have a velcro strip which I assume is used to attach something from the rear of the truck to make it bridge the gap but any questions to TT are met with a
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13 hours ago, landroversforever said:
The input shaft will I think always move about without being located in the spigot bush.
How did you do the block face? If you’re just going back/forwards end to end you’ll take more off the middle. Which would fit with the 2/3 area being suspect.
Small circular motions across the entire block but I don't think the cleaning of the face contributed to the problem if I'm honest...if I was using a heavier grade sandpaper and a powered sander then yes it's going to be a ****show, but this is cleaning residue with light movements. Before it was put back together I shone a torch behind a straight edge to check for any variation in the finished surface and obviously I found none.
There were 2 instances the block overheated, once when a pipe split on the dual carriageway and another when the vacuum pump failed. Reading around and chatting with the others, this is more likely to have caused a problem, but I'm always open to your thoughts
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12 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I’d be a bit wary about the wet and dry on the block too. Unless you’ve got it as a single piece on something like a bit of granite.
When I had the head skimmed I had a chat with the engineer about the block face and his advice was to use hardwood wider than the block, 1200 grit and take your time, which I did.
13 hours ago, deep said:Hmm, if you used sandpaper to remove discolouration on the block face, you've essentially made the surface not flat. Odds are the block will need a light skim. Then there's all the other obvious stuff - is the head gasket good quality; are you torquing the bolts in stages and in the correct sequence; is everything scrupulously clean?
The spigot bearing is strange. It looks like it could have been damaged on assembly, which shouldn't be possible if it's the correct part. Did it fit the shaft properly before assembly?
HG was Elring and yes, bolts in correct order, in fact this rebuild was the most ' by the book ' I've ever done using the LR manual.
The spigot is a strange one as it looks to be elongated top to bottom and the input shaft to the gearbox has some movement, not a lot but some. I also fitted the gearbox and engine together out of the truck so was as careful as I could've been, but that doesn't rule out a mistake happening
Gearbox's are beyond my scope if I'm honest and I'll probably drop it out and get it over to a specialist in the coming weeks for some advice on the input shaft movement. -
Spigot bearing not doing its job...again!
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10 hours ago, landroversforever said:
And all that money spent and they stuck those ungainly actuators on for the roof
I just noticed them, wtf is that all about??
Having owned 2 different 270 degree awnings...I like the fact their one actually folds out to 270 and not 260 which both mine do and leave a gap at the rear of the truck 🤬
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Clutch/gearbox aside I bit the bullet and took out the engine to get some answers to the pressure problem in the top end causing the rust proofing to continue more than ever before.
symptoms are;
smoking when accelerating in any gear ( black smoke )
pressurised rocket cover causing large amounts ( 1 litre every 100 miles or so ) to be lost via the rocket cover breather pipe & breather valve.
I stripped down to the head and this was the result from removing the head gasket.
Between cylinder 2&3 there has been something going on here.
The head was removed and skimmed less than 6 months ago, the block was wet n dry sanded by me to remove any discolouration and looked clean like you see at the front end of the block.
The rust/water discolouration on the block is the same on the head gasket...but if there was pressure getting by why wasn’t the coolant pressuring but the oil was and also possible contamination of the coolant.
All cylinders are clean with no signs of problems ( see below ), the original crosshatch is still evident on them so I’m not thinking the rings have failed anywhere, however I may replace them as well as bottom bearing shells as I’m this far.
One small concern is in cylinder 4, there is a line around 2/3’s of the cylinder. It has no feel to it and I’m pretty sure it wasn’t there before, you can just make it out here in these pictures
My other theory is there is a blockage in the oilways which isn’t allowing the oil to return to the sump quickly enough causing pressure to build up but the oil is pressurised to reach the top of the engine and gravity fed back I believe
Thoughts welcome 👍😁
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59 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
It might be worth looking into trailer IVA and then registration for the trailer because when I went Russia we were told they don't understand that British trailers don't have their own registration and have been known to not let them in.
Mike
That's useful to know, I'll look into it
Cheers
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Be Careful with your Diesel Heaters
in International Forum
Posted
My Webasto air heater has both intake and exhaust from outside of the truck ( rear wheel arch ) with the exhaust coming out by the vehicle exhaust and the intake underneath the middle tub.
When fitting, i didn't actually give it any thought with regards to mixing up the exhaust with the input ( not that it will ), however after knowing that certain parts were faulty in this case and caused a problem, i'll keep an eye on fittings as i've used mine extensively