hurbie
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Posts posted by hurbie
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16 minutes ago, elbekko said:
The rockers and/or shaft will probably fail soon after that.
could be , but what is the timeframe for "soon" , the same could be said for the valve's and piston's . so where do you draw the line ....
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3 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
Concave the wheel centres......hat...coat....bye.
Mike
i just might get some popcorn ....
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10 minutes ago, steve b said:
New tensioner as well?
i think i will replace the tensioner , just to be sure (belt and tensioner were replaced 6 months ago ....)
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hello all ,
a good friend called in distress , his 200tdi 110 broke down .
so he asked if i could have a look at what's wrong with it , short journey to his home (at this point he had it towed home using his work vehicle), and on arrival the bonnet was already open , ready for a look .
engine cranked over , but a bit fast , so opened the oil filler cap and as i guesed no movement on the rockers ....
so we towed it to my place , and started dismantling the engine . removing the timing cover revealed this :
so that's not hard to spot what's wrong ....
belt is likely to be from a bleu box 😞
what i don't get is the fraying on the side of the belt , i thought that only 300tdi's have this problem ?
opening the valvecover revealed this :
no rockers where harmed in this event ....
so a new belt , 8 new pushrods , some time and it will be good to go ...
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bleed everything and start with the one that's furtest away from the master cilinder .
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46 minutes ago, Arjan said:
Fit both the 88" aswell as the 110 5 door.the plan is to fit them to the Eurover project 🙂
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hello all ,
i just got hold of these side panels , are these rare to find ? i have never seen closed 88" sidepanels without the rear quarter glass .
everything looks factory made
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if i had to do this , i would look for a truck repair buisines , they have much more capable stuf for getting chassis straight again (a much more comon fault on HGV tractor /trailers )
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first job is making sure the breathers work as they should do .... a blocked breather makes a gearbox/differential leak ....
and not all 230's need a sleeved casing when leaking from the o-ring ....sometimes a new o-ring will seal it for a long time .
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21 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
They extended the front door to suit the Jeep's longer wheelbase, so the roof had to be lengthened.
according to the text , the chassis got extended :
The 1969 body was repainted by piece and assembled onto a 2018 Jeep chassis extended by 16” to fit the wheel wells
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3 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
I’m guessing it lives in Scotland.
it looks exactly like the chassis of the Eurover project ..... (that was from Scotland as wel ..)
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some used newspapers , apply a thick coating of bodycoating and your good to go ....
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no to sure what battery's youre running , but 14.8 seems to be pretty high for a lead acid battery , most you read is 14.4 to max 14.7
but maybee you have different battery's and i'm talking nonsens 😉
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or just visit your local MAN truck dealer and buy a axle drain plug with the magnet installed 😉 (there the same thread as far as i can see)
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10 hours ago, John_M said:
Yeah good point, any idea the sort of standards they follow? I’m assuming it’s just like how the wiring passes through body/bulkhead etc. and how connections are made?
it could be country specific , in the netherlands the wiring has to be "invisible" routed within the factory loom .
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9 hours ago, John_M said:
I’d rather do that, then I can install it how I want to (primarily bc I can choose where cables are routed, and so I know how and where it might fail).
The other thing is, even if it’s not an insurance certified alarm, it’ll still put my mind at ease, as it will still scream at anyone who puts a hammer through the window.
But it still would be nice to have it certified to lower insurance costs.
if you want it to be certified , speak to the guy who does the certifing before wiring everything , there are rules how certain connections need to be made , and how wire's need to be tied in the vehicle loom.
this save's you some time doing parts over because the don't meet "standards"
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could it be that the tank breaks because you don't have the cradle installed ?
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9 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Interesting on the stud front. I've used an off the shelf stud which was all the right shape which has given me similar stick out front and rear. That's with early 90/110 front hubs and imperial early disco or RRC rear hubs.
do you happen to know wich one's you got ?
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there's not much you can tell by lookng at bore's .... you have to measure them to know what to fix .
on the Eurover 200tdi the bore's had no crosshatching left on a couple of spots , but measured to be good enough for another round of standard rings with a good hone to get the cross hatch patern back .... (since i did a full rebuild i opted for a oversize with new piston's).
so just borrow a decent cilinder measure set and know what to do ....
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yep , for an overlander keep it as simple as possible .
everything you add to it will eventually break ...
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5 hours ago, dangerous doug said:
I’m not metallurgist but I was under the impression you could somewhat normalise steel and then re harden.
you can , the trick is ... you need to know the spec's off the steel used ....and that's the difficult part to find ...
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a decent sollar controler can be set to different type's batterys, for example a lithium battery needs a higher voltage then a lead acid one . so might be that your problem is there .
set to the correct battery the controler should never give more output then the "set" voltage (even with the engine running)
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the pipe with the 2 banjo's is exactly the same as my fuel pipe from injection pump to filter (mounted on the bulkhead) in a 200TDI
(and if you don't use it , i can use it on the Eurover project)
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or a cheap chinese VDO knockoff 😉 (my original landrover gauge was also way off)
ibex 300 build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
to me this sound's like a fuel issue, have a good look at the fuel return spill rail . when the engine is running it gets way more fuel then it needs and sort off self purge the air out , hence why it's running better when driven a bit.
(and maybee a doggy lift pump (spacer fitted when not needed ?? ))