hurbie
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Posts posted by hurbie
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i think the main reason is , people don't complain enough when they have a faulty part . they just swallow it and go on ....
even Britpart come with a 2 year warranty .... but if they don't get recalls on faulty parts , they must asume there perfect ...
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1 hour ago, Jocklandjohn said:
Cheers Simon, very helpful. Curious though, whats the difference between that relay and the Victron one (just so I can understand this whole subject better!)
as far as i can see : nothing ....
to be fair , it doesn't charge your main battery first and then charges the second , it connects both battery's when the voltage is above 13.3 volts .....
so it charges both more or less at the same time ..
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i think this is fully extended :
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18 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
So even when they extend, do the boots remain attached and you can’t see the rod?
the sleeve is connected to the top part of the damper , and maybe when at full length you can just see the rod , on normal stance it's closed and you can't see the rod.
when fully compressed the sleeve is maybe 2 cm off the botom .
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on my Eurover project , i have original Landrover heavy-duty shocks , en these don't have boots but a metal sleeve over the top to protect the rod from dirt .
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i worke in HGV and i have never mounted (oil) shocks with the body up , some shocks come with a instalation paper to state that you have to pump the shock vertical (body down) 10 times to get the oil where it needs to be .. so mounting it upside down wouldn't do any good for it ....
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i don't get it why people install funny stuf to a LT77 , it's never going to be as slick as a japanese gearbox , with all these "upgrade's " you only put more stress on the synchro part's (simply because your loosing the "feel" to what the box is doing ...}
but everyone needs to do what they like ...
here is a video how to get the legs on :
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i thought that DC-DC chargers are there to boost the charging voltage to a usefull level if you use long cable's (to load a battery in your trailer wich is 6 meter's away using "thinner" cable ...)
but i might be way of in my thinking ...-
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it would be nice if a colored brochure turned up , to settle this ...
(until further info i go with Western, and the rebuilt being gold color ....)
(that leaves the question , what was the original factory engine color)
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8 hours ago, Arjan said:
Out of stock.....
Hope they'll be back in stock sooni think they will be in stock when he's returned from holiday ..... (everything is out of stock 😉 )
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it looks like the hoop from the rollbar slide's in to this bracket , the hoop (from a softtop) sit's normally just on the tub capping .
i think it would be clear if you have all the parts , and get the roof and side's of.
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i would guess in the front inner corner off the tub (on top off the wheelarch)
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that's looking very smart !
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and remember , your rear brake's do only at most 40% of the braking (probebly much less) , so your gain wil not be much over correct adjusted drums ....
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maybee this helps :
make sure you have the piston's in the right way
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as above , i would suggest using a sturdy piece of wood and a big hammer for the last bit , using a puller means the liner will get warm and be really tight , because it take's some time to set this up .
as mentioned above , use a heatgun to heat the block a bit .
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it isn't that difficult to get right .
strip the lock and the rubber stays from the bonnet (and everything else that is fixed to the bonnet) , then see if the bonnet closses as it should be - if not see where it touches and rectifie.
if bonnet closes to the prefered position , put the lock back on , and adjust so it locks (and unlocks) propperly , then put the rubber stays in , and adjust left and right height ...
take a cold drink, and enjoy youor marvel 🙂
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just had a look , 1 have two bulkheads (110) with the old mastercylinder
first one :
swervo:
second one :
servo:
also had a look in the serie's 3 manual , but no seal there .
maybe the seal is suplied in the rebuilt kit for the mastercylinder ?
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maybee the cutout is there to allow brake fluid to exit the master cylinder , in case of a bad seal , and prevent it from entering the servo .
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maybee it's in the rebuilt kit for the servo 18G8951L for the type 50 or AEU2741 fot the type 80
if i don't forget i can have a look this weekend , i have at least one bulkhead with the older mastercylinder , to see if it has some sort off seal in between.
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the manual state's : "press-in the Railko bush housing ensuring the machined flat is towards the back of the housing, when the housing is fitted to the axle , the flat faces inboard "
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that is looking really good !
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discovery 200tdi or defender 200tdi?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
https://www.lrdirect.com/err678-exhaust-manifold-200tdi-def
(does anybody know a new waterpipe for sale 🙂 err371)