volvotgb

I also run Linux and also hate anything cloud based. I swapped to Freecad about 5 years ago. It is quite a steep learning curve, but once you get the hang of it, its great. Its free as the name suggests and its also open source and not cloud based. The realthunder version is the best one to go for

On a Prusa MK4, if you make the letters recessed, when you come to slice it, it asks you if this is a logo and if you say yes, you can print the first part up to the letters in the colour you want the letters and then it stops and you change the filament for the colour you want for the rest of it. Works really good.

I would recommend Technical Arc in Yorkshire. They actually build all of the their welders in house in the UK. If you ever have a problem with them you can speak to the man who actually built your welder. Service and parts backup is excellent should you ever need it and the prices are on par with other options. I have been running their MIG, TIG and Plasma machines for over 10 years and only have good things to say about them

I have used Solidworks a long time ago, then fusion360. Now I have swapped to Freecad. There is a bit of a learning curve with it, but now I am very comfy with it and there are lots of things that I prefer to the commercial CAD packages. And as the name suggests, its completely free !

I have wired a couple of vehicles up with these looms : https://www.speedwaymotors.com/22-Circuit-Universal-Automotive-Aftermarket-Wiring-Harness-Kit,229874.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/12-Circuit-Mini-Fuse-Universal-Hot-Rod-Wiring-Harness-Kit,2352.html On one of them I just used as is and it was fine. On the other, I added a load of extras so I got a modular fuse/relay box and replaced the fusebox supplied. It was still worth buying the loom though. The wire is really good quality and it is all printed on the wiring what each wire is for. Just another option !

Wonder if anyone can help. I am fitting a 4hp22 Auto box in a Volvo military truck. I have mounted an oil cooler for the gearbox and I want to put the oil temp sensor in the circuit somewhere. Does it go before the cooler or after ? Also, which port out of the gearbox is the flow to the cooler and which is the return ? Finally, I have the temp sensor from the disco the engine/box came out of. Is this a switch for a warning lamp or a sensor for a guage. I am hoping it is a simple switch as this will make things easier Thanks for your help

Thanks for the replies. The radiator is well above the thermostat, so thats no problem. The problem I have is I dont have anywhere high enough up to put the expansion tank for it to be higher than the rad and the thermostat housing. All tractors I have worked on just have the radiator, no expansion tank, thats why I was considering it. I presume that as you dont fill the radiator until it is coming out of the cap, then it allows for some expansion. The radiator is considerably bigger than the standard tdi radiator, maybe bigger than the rad and expansion tank combined, so I think it will probably be OK On the tractor, the overflow pipe just goes to the floor, no recovery tank. Do you think I need the recovery tank ?

Hello, I am fitting a 300tdi and autobox from a Discovery into a Volvo 6x6 military vehicle. I have a big radiator out of a Ford 7610 tractor, and ideally I would like to run it without an expansion tank. Has anyone done this with a Tdi engine ? I presume that you would put the heater return into the bottom hose and the little vent pipe from the thermostat housing into the top hose ? Any reason not to do this ? Thanks for your help