David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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This tool will not move the caliper spring an inch!! I even used one stronger than that !!
That comment points very strongly to the fact that the piston was pushed unevenly, and became crooked in the bore of the caliper. At this point the best course of action is to block any other piston from moving, then press lightly on the brake pedal until the stuck piston moves.
To help avoiding the 'crooked push' I suggest you ALWAYS push on an old pad backing plate, NEVER on the piston itself.
It's always possible to break the rules and get away with it, sometimes, but why set up a trap for yourself?
HTH
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Yep, RSS out or RSS in both available. IIRC we did try this in the earlier days of the forum but incoming feeds were not popular and there were very few interested in using an rss reader to read (and by implication not post directly to) lr4x4 threads.
Do you think we should now provide feeds?
Responding because a Mod / Admin asked ...
My concern would be people responding to the contents of such feeds.
IE, they see a question, feel they MUST respond immediately, and do so from a device that (from current experience):
Cannot capitalise the first letters of sentences, or of proper names.
Cannot insert spaces after punctuation, such as commas or full stops.
Has no spell checking facility.
Has no 'new line' facility.
Majors on text speak abbreviations (M8!).
In short, whatever the intention behind the response, and any germ of intelligent information inside it, the response is surrounded by so much presentational garbage that the total response is meaningless (OTT - 'difficult to comprehend' might be better).
If the RSS experts and familiars can prove me wrong, then please do so.
My point is that we seem to get responses now that have the failings I've just mentioned.
We (I) don't want to encourage any more. :-)
Cheers
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Errr No.
Go back two paces.
As the 38A left the factory they never used the Heated Rear Window as a radio aerial.
Look at the rearmost windows down the side, both of them. In a 2000 they both have elements in them, these are the radio aerials, one side for VHF, the other side for the other stuff. Which is which I can't recall, especially because LR reversed the arrangement part way through the life of the car. There is probably a Technical Bulletin or two about it.
The RH rear side window also has a single line aerial for the Alarm receiver.
A 'gotcha' is that if someone sticks metallised reflective film over the side windows, this does a good job of keeping the radio signals at bay, as well as the suns heat. A poor radio signal means that local noise is more noticeable.
I quite like the idea that a bad connection within the HRW will arc, and use the rest of the elements of an aerial, but I'm no radio man.
Whether the interferance is due to the technician who fitted the HRW disturbing something else is a matter of conjecture. I've never had to look if the wiring for the radio system and HRW co-exist anywhere.
Each aerial has an amplifier, and they are under the shelves just inside the side windows where the aerials are. I'd expect the HRW wiring to be on the roof, so I wouldn't expect the radio wiring to be disturbed.
Good Luck
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... can I say that the 19 is the last version? is that set available somewhere ?
thanks
patpat
No, we can't say 19 is the last version, as Tuko's 2004/03 may be later, (but is currently unreadable).
I've suggested a work-around, so let's wait and see about that, and also wait and see if we can find an English language example of Silvio's 'expires July 2004' version.
If those two approaches fail (wait and see) I can let you have a copy of both v19 disc contents.
Cheers
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David,
it will be interesting if you can indeed download this "freeRAVE" crack that they have and 2, if it works on the later versions of RAVE. RAVE up to 2003/06 are crackable but I've not be able to figure out how to do it after that date on the Cd's.
Please keep us posted.
Cheers, Todd.
I have applied the FreeRave application to a version 19 CD.
Previously I had to alter the PC date to 2002 to open this version. I didn't do it regularly because I have an early 38A and didn't need the 2002 information, so used a version 12 or 13 CD, which opens with the PC set to the current date.
After the v19 CD had been freed, if I use Rave.exe to initiate RAVE, then it opens with Adobe Reader v4, as normal.
If I use Welcome.pdf to initiate RAVE (the file is in the same folder as rave.exe) then RAVE opens with the installed Adobe Reader, which happens to be version 5 on that PC. All the book marks and indexing (in the LH column) is available as standard. I haven't tried every facility, but Search works.
Note that if you don't already have a utility to extract files from a RAR archive you will need to get one. WinRAR was the one I had installed.
It only takes a few seconds to extract the files from the archive, but the real work is done after you subsequently open RAVE via rave.exe, and start the process. It took 30 minutes to convert this version, during which time the PC was unusable. I also took the PC off-line while this was going on.
Cheers
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Dave,
Just checking I have V016-1, which I just pulled from 2003/06 cd1.
Like I said, I can't run the 2003/11 nor the 2004 cd's so I have no idea what is on them.
Todd.
Where is that '2003/06 cd1' designation coming from?
I don't recall it being within the CD itself.
Is this what someone, who has copied the CD, has called it?
Of course, v16 is a hard example to crack, as it has no Technical Bulletins on it, and it was in the Technical Bulletins Menu that I found an actual Issue date.
Version 17/01 has an Issue date of 4/10/2002 in the Technical Bulletins Menu.
Like I said, I can't run the 2003/11 nor the 2004 cd's so I have no idea what is on them.Todd.
As a matter of interest, have you tried changing the date of your PC to any month in 2002, and then running the rave.exe on these CD's? (I'm assuming you can see via Windows Explorer that these have a similar format to the v16 CD you can read?).
You don't have to reboot the PC, just ensure Adobe is closed, change the date, then fire up rave.exe.
Don't forget to change the date back, or people receiving emails get very sniffy.
Cheers
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Silvio, Tuko,
When you go into 'What's New', what version number is shown?
Like this sample: What's-New-v19.jpg
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I still do not have permission to download the file.
PS, I have sent a PM on the LandRoverTec site to the author of the post on there, so watch this space!!
To answer this point, if you are tempted to sign up for the site, and are an English speaker, make your FIRST action a Scroll down to the very bottom of the screen. Here you get a dropdown language selection box, choose Spanish or US English.
It doesn't actually say US English, but UnServicable English is just so appropriate to English (United States) that I prefer that setting!!.
Next complete the registration. Do include your date of birth in the boxes that obviously take a date. If you put 'todays' date, as I did, you are registered as a minor. A giveaway is that you are asked for a Tutor's email address (Tutor = Parent Guardian) if you don't put the correct date. Of course, it's only a giveaway now you know the answer!!
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Do you really have RAVE CDs dated after 2003?
Sorry to sound disbelieving, but I understood the RAVE CD was stopped shortly after the introduction of the L322 Range Rover.
Version 19-1 has an issue date of 01/07/03 (Seen in the Index of the Technical Bulletins section).
I have been told the last one was version 20, although I haven't seen one.
Cheers.
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First things first, Thankyou PatPat for this posting.
I have registered with the site and used Google Translate to read the original post, which I'm guessing is your work as well.
Should we be thanking Alison Rogers as well :-)
I have waited until I received the Authorisation email from the site, then logged in, but I still do not have permission to download the file. I notice there had been 124 'Reads' of the post, but no file downloads had taken place, which I find strange.
I have looked round the site and see it is a very new Forum, and this post is the only one I have found with a file attachement.
Could it be that no ordinary user has permission to download files?
I have tried to place a Comment against the original post, but I don't have permission to do that either.
Regards
PS, I have sent a PM on the LandRoverTec site to the author of the post on there, so watch this space!!
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I think some of you miss the point about Jim's results.
Because he has a long baseline to begin with, any variations in season, daily travel pattern, or mechanical condition tend to be lost in the overall figure. They become little ripples in the line, not peaks and troughs. Now he is creating a long post injection baseline, where again minor variations in day to day usage, temperature, tyre pressures, etc, get lost in the sheer mass of data.
Thus if the figures show a 3% gain, that's what he is getting.
Concerns about daily temperature, tyre pressures or patterns, windows open or closed, etc, only become important if you are comparing last weeks figures with this weeks figures.
A dyno test would be useless for this experiment, as it is not about maximum power at any particular rpm.
Jim's first results over 6000km show a gain, that means it's sensible to carry on collecting data. The greater the time / distance the post injection data extends for, then the more solid the comparison becomes.
Keep up the good work Jim.
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I need to know if it is normal to have strong tyre smell after mounting of Chrome gaiters or is it the new brake pads that I mounted that gives away that smell?
Nb one thing too... Them gaiters never close or seal irrespective of how much sealant one applies. Is it just me who can't do the job? Any one been to this?
I have fitted several of the Bailcast split gaiters, some over drive shaft CVs on 'normal' front wheel drive cars, and two over Land Roves swivel balls, although not on a Defender.
The gaiters do seal, the superglue supplied is good industrial quality, although the setting time may be extended if you are doing the job outside in Norway, in the cold snow conditions you show.
Glue the edges when the gaiter is NOT in its' final position, this is so the rubber is not stretched while you are holding the edges together. When you have the first part of the gaiter glued you can move it out of the way so you can glue the next fold or two. Repeat until you reach the end.
The gaiter certainly shouldn't burn, or smell hot. I'd suspect the brake pads doing that, although exactly what has gone wrong I wouldn't like to guess.
If you haven't got the edges of the gaiter glued together I'd be tempted to remove it, just so you can be absolutely certain that it is the brake pads that are smelling, and that whatever corrective action you take is effective in stopping the smell.
Than go back to the gaiters.
If the steel bands are damaged beyond reuse, plastic tie wraps are as good, although both benefit from use of a proper setting tool, which no-one, including me, ever has. The excess length of the strap or tie wrap should be cut off.
Good Luck
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Change the spelling to Mayflower and your search will be more productive.
There are existing threads and advice within the forum, although I actually found these via Google.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14745
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26703
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/jpgordon13/x9.htm
This link to Pangolin covers different sorts of period Series winches.
http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/ref...es/winches.html
Hope This Helps.
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Strangely Jim, that's of little comfort.
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It's a RHD by the way Preg P38 have I confused yoy with saying the gas pedal ? I can't spell accelerator. lol
Yes :-)
The others have picked up the technical bits.
Cheers
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Regarding Long Causeway, I thought it was open, with the proviso that downhill use only (by vehicles) is the local agreement.
I have just rung the Authority (Telephone: 01629 816200, the number on the link GBMud posted), and spoke to a Matt Cluney or Coney.
Yes the route is open, care is needed at certain points, 'but it's been like that for a few years'.
It was closed in June 2008 due to specific damage, but that was repaired in July.
I pointed out the conflict of information with the Web site, response "Oh, is that still up there", and was thanked for my trouble, but Matt doesn't control the web site.
Not my favourite route, but if it's yours, enjoy yourself. What the view will be like this weekend is anybodies guess. Dress warm, with hat, seems to be the best advice.
Cheers.
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I too have heard of this concept for quite a while, but an occasional repeat mention is worthwhile, as there are always 'newbies' coming along.
My concern about this revolves around what happens when the phone is in the possession of someone else, not a paramedic or other 'Good Samaritan', but someone with no regard for you, or your nearest and dearest.
(Can't help but think of two BBC radio presenters at this time. Other negative people do exist.).
The phone owner has highlighted the people most vulnerable to receiving negative news about them.
This could be in the form of an abusive call, or a more sophisticated caller who is aiming to establish if the called person is local, and can 'come to the scene', leaving the home address open for entry.
Similar to posting your home address in clear view on holiday luggage, or in the case of certain high profile footballers, leaving no-one at home when you play.
Another parallel is putting 'Home' in a free standing Navigation system. A thief knows where the system was, and therefore your vicinity. There's a possibility he can reach your home before you can.
Lastly, in practical terms, what good is it?
There are other methods of saying if you have special medical needs, are allergic to penicillin, subject to diabetic attacks, etc. Methods which are probably more reliable than someone being at the number you have given, and being able to react coherently when faced with a strong personal shock.
Personally I'd rather the Good Samaritan deal with the injured party, and the nearest and dearest remain in ignorance until the situation is stabilised. IE It's known which hospital is dealing, not we are doing our best but we shall be moving in 20 minutes.
The original post is a standard boiler plate text on this subject.
I'd be interested in first person accounts of where this ICE facility has helped, or not helped. They might act against the concerns I've just posted.
I am NOT saying this facility should not be used, the example of working alone is a good one, where the ICE person may well be a work colleague. However, I am highlighting some concerns that I think helpful to the user if these are considered before invoking ICE, and before selecting who the ICE contacts are.
I do recognise that while this social discussion does have a relevance to the sort of activities LR users get up to, the topic is not 'LR Technical', so could be considered outside the terms of reference for this forum.
In that context, if the topic gets prolific, especially with non-constructive or un-reasoned responses, I won't complain if the topic is stopped as soon as it goes into Page 2 (say).
Cheers.
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Please excuse the ignorance!
Can I please ask what "Full metal jacket is" I understand in ballistic terms but the LR application evades me!
Many thanks James
Did you follow the link?
In this context it's a Marketing Term, so is permitted (expected even) to have only a limited relationship to reality.
The device is a lidded metal box, with appropriate cut outs, a hinge and a lock for the lid. When closed the pedals are inside the locked box, or 'Full Metal Jacket'.
This reminds me, no-one returned my call.
Chasing that I was put through to a 'Rob', I think he is the R in R&S.
He has found a likely email, and is to respond with a question about exactly which model of Defender is involved, as the pedal layout varies, apparently.
Rob tells me the web site is being revamped 'as he speaks'.
Hopefully this episode has moved the project up the to do list.
Good Luck Paruski.
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There may be some confusion between petrol and diesel EGT's vs fuel/air ratio.
Now there's diplomacy for you :-)
There's scope in the Moderators Corp for you!!
I do agree, I cringed when I saw the topic, not because of the questions raised, but because they were bound to raise simplistic answers to a complex situation. There are just so many interrelated factors when discussing either Spark Ignition or Compression Ignition engines in detail. They is a limit to how simple the answers can be expressed, without leaving so many openings for misunderstandings.
I'm not sure I'm going to even try and explain the detail.
Yep, retired, defeated!
Cheers.
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I have 06-2008 and expect an update soon. If you can figure out a way to get it to you (2CDs), I'll be glad to do so.
And a big thanks to Mahon for the script!
In the past I have used Megaupload for this sort of stunt. http://www.megaupload.com/
When I used it in Jan 2008, the limit (for free) was 500MB, so I had to split files out of the CD and pass them as separate uploads.
Now I see the limit is 1024 MB, so each CD should go as a single upload.
Some Hints.
Load as separate but simultaneous sessions (multiple Browser instances running at the same time).
If loaded using the Megaupload 'Multifile' facility note it is ESSENTIAL that the uploader inserts the (Optional) own email address, because that is the only way the uploader gets told the download url.
In both Single file and Multifile instances, the sender can insert the recipients email address (if it is known), and the recipient will be notified automatically the download is ready.
They offer a free 'Megaupload Turbo' application. I didn't take advantage of that before, but it might be worth trying, as it improves downloads as well.
Note that these files are only available to download for a limited time.
If you are making the downloads available to 'anyone' you will have to post the link in an open posting, or via PM to those who ask for it.
Please take this post as an 'ask' :-))
Thanks
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The probe that I use is a K type. Not sure if that relates to the temp range or style of guage you use. But on research that I did they all seem to mention that it was compatable to a K type guage.
Yes, it's the electronics in the gauge that has to match the type of thermocouple, and I agree, K type is normal for EGT usage.
As for being tied in with trange thread sizes. The t/c is just a small 6mm dia tube with the magic bits inside. What boss you choose to fit it with is up to you. As long as it corresponds to either the 6mm (what people seem to use) or a 3mm you should be fine.I confess I was thinking more of the gauge end. The threaded fitting is normally chosen to meet local practise, thus BSP or NPT, whatever. I use a 3mm probe.
A stand alone thermocouple will end in a pair of wires, and these have to be ordered to be long enough in the first place. Unless the user is 'in the trade', these leads can only be shortened, not lengthened (without adversely affecting accuracy). If the chosen gauge uses some form of special connector, or it is hidden behind a crimped fastening, it just makes the whole installation process a little more 'stimulating'.
HTH
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The phone number 0121-237-5646 is good, someone who is 'in a meeting' is supposed to be calling me back re my query 'I've got a friend who is getting no response to emails' - we shall see.
The current address, which seems no-where on the web, is Hockley Industrial Estate, Pitsford Street, Hockley, Birmingham B18 6PT
They say it's not far from their old address.
I hadn't heard of the FMJ either, try this http://www.rs-laser-cutting.co.uk/fullmetaljacket.htm
You will note that site still gives their old address, and a phone number that didn't work outside normal hours!!
HTH
PS " ... three emails have prompted no response ".
You have checked your Spam box* haven't you?
* Wherever your mail system stores mail it doesn't think you should read.
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I think that the amount of talking* that the phone does with the local towers is dependent on signal strength and whether there are multiple towers within range.
Mobile phone batteries will run down faster when moving or when in areas of low signal strength.
* when you leave it next to your bedside alarm/radio and it goes "da dada da dada da dada daaaa" it is communicating with the network.
Thanks for that; in this context one should assume the worse, that the facility is at the outer limits of a cell, there will be lot's of 'are you still there' type SHOUTED conversations between the phone and the cell station, and that after 6 months of this the battery will only last 12 hours.
He says, cynically :-))
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In my last post I was also going to comment on sourcing thermocouples by themselves, instead of part of a package.
However, when I checked I discovered my previous suppliers (Kalestead) only showed cables on their web site.
A phone call today revealed the thermocouple side had devolved to a firm called Alphatemp at http://www.k-instruments.co.uk/index.html
Browsing this site shows they do use the thread format I recall, BSPP and BSPT.
This doesn't help you decide what thread to create now, but for UK readers it does highlight a local, competitively priced, source of thermocouples. As these are all to a standard, they will work to any gauge / monitor, although one should always acknowledge the ability for some manufacturers to include non-standard connectors, hidden away, just to tie you into their product.
HTH
Off Road Comms
in International Forum
Posted
I think it depends a lot on how 'committed' the people are.
By committed I mean how much money they want to spend on 'extras'.
On our club laning trips, which are aimed very much as suitable for the family, not hard core, a father and son couple, when they come in two vehicles, are great chatters on their CBs, a couple have PMRs, but the leader is very keen on keeping the packet close together, so lack of inter-vehicle comms is not normally a problem.
I passenger in the leaders vehicle, and we both have PMRs.
Very occasionally we use them if I'm prospecting (walking) a lane that looks iffy.
Cheers