David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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Brake lines: OEM or braided? is there a big difference?
Without being funny in any way, for someone just starting to get into car maintenance, as you are, then I'd strongly recommend OEM rubber.
The reason is that if at any time you are faulting the brake circuit, especially looking for spongy brakes, it's incredibly useful to be able to clamp the rubber pipes (with the correct tool) and eliminate the associated caliper from the circuit. If the spongy pedal immediately becomes firm (it will also develop a short travel), then the air is in that caliper you have just clamped off.
Clamping off ALL the rubber pipes, and the pedal is still spongy, means the fault is in the master cylinder.
Braided pipes have a braided stainless steel outer. If you ever do manage to clamp them they won't recover, so are scrap.
For someone who feels they have the knowledge and experience to fault a brake system without the possibility of clamping off the hoses, then braided hoses give a slight performance advantage, under heavy braking (assuming the tyres and tarmac give enough grip). They also resist physical damage due to stones and sticks.
In your situation, running your car, I wouldn't bother. I don't on my current road car, although I have in previous cars that I've driven with more vigour.
HTH
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Thanks Luke, got that. I take it with 2 batteries, I would have to test one battery at a time, with other battery terminals removed?
Just in case Luke is in transit, and not available to answer ....
Yes, test one battery at a time.
As your batteries are connected in parallel, with no splitting, then Yes, disconnect one or both leads from the other battery.
In theory, as both batteries feed the same loads, you only need to test from one battery.
But, you are chasing a fault, so for the little time and effort it takes, you may as well repeat the test on the second battery, leaving the first disconnected. I'd expect the results to be identical, but we are here because of the unexpected !!
You are looking for 'something' that is drawing current all the time. Obviously switch off any interior lights that are normally on when you open the door(s), but also recall that clocks and radios-with-memory also take power all the time, so if you have those fitted, expect to see some current flowing.
Cheers.
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The main problem being the leads on my multimeter being too short to do much in the engine bay and under the front passenger seat at the same time!
I did manage to get the lead from the alternator body and then to the cable on the earth. With engine running and lights on it read -0.01V.
Ok, that seems good enough.
Now you need to test the volt drop on the positive lead (you have just tested the volt drop on the negative or earth path).
Take a red jump lead. Clamp one end onto a piece of 2" x 1" wood, or plastic water pipe, or anything that doesn't conduct electricity. Put this end on the ground, near the front wheel that is closest to the alternator. make absolutely certain that, whatever you do, this clamp NEVER touches the car or engine metalwork.
Clamp the other end of the cable onto the Positive terminal of the engine start battery. Wiggle it around to get the best possible connection. The clamp on the wood now becomes, for test purposes, the battery positive terminal. We have to make allowances for a possible iffy connection, but this is a start.
Put your meter to measure DC Volts, and connect it between the large positive (+ve) terminal on the alternator and the clamp-on-the-floor. It isn't critical which way round you connect the meter (for this test) but the alternator terminal should be more positive than the clamp, so put the positive meter lead to the alternator.
Engine running, lights on, as before, you are looking for a similar 0.01volt reading.
If it's significantly higher, wiggle the clamp on the battery terminal, to improve the connection, then test again.
If the reading stays high, then we have to test at intermediate points along the positive feed to see where the significant volt drop is occuring.
The 11.97 battery I changed for a spare fully charged battery. However, the resulting multimeter reading with engine running was still only 13.2V?This is why we are checking the voltage drops.
As a matter of interest, I assume all these voltage readings you have taken while the engine is running have been at the battery. Yes?
Under the same conditions (engine running, lights on) check the voltage reading between the alternator case and the alternator positive terminal.
If the reading across the battery pos & neg is 13.2, and the reading across the alternator is 13.3, then there is nothing wrong with the wiring between the battery and the alternator.
Possibilities is that the battery is not fully charged, and pulling the alternator down, or the alternator is struggling for some other reason. I appreciate you have just changed it, I'm merely pointing out possibilities.
Good Luck.
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Sorry to dampen what sounded like a great weekend but stanage has a volentary closure, as far as I'm aware this is still standing.
http://www.peakdistrict.org/index/looking-...cles-routes.htm
I'm just a tad disappointed that someone who is local is prepared to go negative in public, and imply criticism, without checking.
The page you reference was also referenced during the trip preparation, and you can see my response in the post on this page http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...0&start=160
I'm no local Green Lane expert, but even I thought the web site was incorrect. My non-expert status was another reason for checking, as these things can change 'overnight'. In fact the Edge has been open for several months. As one of the most popular spots in Derbyshire the authorities have a vested interest in keeping it open, which is why the repair in June / July was done in double quick time (compared to the normal speed of work on Green Lanes).
Note that the communication channel I used wasn't insider knowledge, it was the phone number on that page you link to.
Cheers.
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Eliminate the batteries as causing the problem. Possibly one is draining the other. Separate them electrically before leaving the car. Then check them before starting the engine (trying to start the engine).
It's toss a coin whether you leave each battery connected to its' respective load after you separate them.
If you separate AND remove the loads, if one battery goes flat, the fault is obvious. If neither battery goes flat the fault is in one of the loads, but you don't know which one.
If you separate but DON'T remove the loads, and one battery goes flat, you don't know if it's the battery or a load fault (something draining the battery).
Good Luck
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I've seen the adverts, but you really don't want to go there.
Mainly on the grounds of price.
Looks like a good way to build muscle tone.
http://auto.frost.co.uk/search?p=KK&sr...atform&rk=6
The source site. http://www.hamercarlift.com/
HTH
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Tesco do a couple of 3 Watt Luxeon Torches, either 2 C cell or 2 D cell, Good quality machined Aluminium, proper on off button. They have Collimator lens so the beam is excellent and very bright/ They are £12 and £15.
Tonight I noticed that the 3 Watt version, with 2 C cells included, has been reduced to £9. It was previously £12 in the same store. It's funny, there's no 'Sale' or 'Reduced' tag up, just a different price.
I was looking for the 4 Watt, with 2 x D Cells, to fall in price, but that is still £18.
HTH
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Wirksworth is outside that area, but I'll throw DLS into the ring, in case nothing else turns up.
It's fair to say I don't have regular servicing done there, but I've used them once or twice, been happy with the result, and hear good general comments about them.
Good Luck.
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I have only had it a few months and its got new air bags SNIP
In that case the slow leaks may be where the pipes enter the bags.
When you have it up to pressure, and with the engine off, push each pipe in turn, sideways and forwards / backwards, where they enter the bags.
You are listening for a hiss. There are two O rings on each joint, and sometimes people only push the pipe through one of them.
Good Luck.
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Pretty much the same as already said, just worded differently, with perhaps a different emphasis.
'Slow leaks' can be perished air bellows, and in my view it's the most likely cause, assuming no-one has been 'working' on the system for any reason, when anything could be wrong.
The 'on it's stops' is the compressor being worn out, after dealing with the leaks.
You could 'just' rebuild the compressor (Piston and Cylinder), but this will barely last 6 months until it's also worn out.
If it is the bellows, they need replacement.
Obviously try Ebay UK, cheapest option is just the rubbers.
The real source of goods and expertise is probably still Rover Renovations in the USA. Especially so if you want to 'upgrade' to Arnott springs, higher ride heights, etc. There is no need, but the options are there if you want to spend the money. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with rebuilding it to standard specification if your style of use is normal tarmac and the occasional green lane roads.
Good Luck.
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A Series style Chaff guard, Portal axles, AC Compressor converted to an air compressor (or hydraulic pump).
The GEMS V8 is too obvious to require comment (or excitement, for some!!).
There is an element of guess, of course.
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cipx2 has already answered Green Bobs question correctly - M16 x 1.5
Paul.
Yes, but I was trying to establish if it was a standard Metric Fine or a standard Metric Coarse thread, so that Green Bob (or anyone else) might be helped to source a nut / bolt of the correct pitch. When I found there were several Fine Metric threads I thought the information worth sharing.
Sorry if it was information you didn't need / can't use.
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Hands on experience seems to be winning the prize here. I can't comment from a Defender aspect as I don't have one to look at.
I thought I might be able to confirm the alternative by checking an Engineers Data book that is slightly more modern than the Tech Archive's 1976 Zeus tables ... but no.
A thread gauge might be the arbiter. Some people may be able to substitute a steel rule, steady hand, and sharp eyesight.
ISO Metric Coarse shows that a 16mm diameter thread has a pitch of 2mm.
ISO Metric Fine has four different pitches listed, 1, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75 mm.
You see why a gauge is useful.
Whether one of these is a 'preferred' thread is anybodies guess.
Follow Mikes advice, and send him a Jaffa cake, whatever, if it all works out OK!!
Cheers
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Neither the second or third links function as you desire. They both bring up error pages.
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requested project not found
sorry,
Looks like there is no project like you are looking for.
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and
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Looking for something on Rapidonline.com?
The page you are attempting to access does not exist. You may have followed an outdated link
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It takes me a little while to get up to speed on the motorway near me, as where I get on there is an incline in both directions (my junction is in a bit of a dip).
I'd just about worked out that with an inclination in both directions the junction must be in a dip - but thank's for the confirmation <smile>.
I'm just about to go past the transit when he floors it. If he could go that much quicker, why didn't he overtake? He had loads, and I mean loads of space to get in front of me, but chose to wait until I was alongside...why?!?!Because changing lanes is too difficult.
I'm serious, some people seem to find it difficult to change lanes without breaking into a sweat.
Sometimes disguised as "I'm relaxed, not in a hurry, so I'll just slow down and bide my time" or "I'm not a lane 3 racer".
He wasn't racing you, he was just getting back to his cruising speed.
I try to calm my temper by looking for the silver lining - if he (she) finds lane changing that difficult I'm glad they recognise their limitations and don't bother.
Mind you, it would be different if my vehicle was towing a trailer and I wanted them to move from lane 2 to lane 1.
Cheers
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thanks for the input guys, I guess I'm going to stick to OEM's then.
I take it there a real barsteward to fit as a DIY job ??
Have a browse through the Technical Archive before you give up on DIY.
If there is nothing in the Archive, then the mention I think I've seen must have been a short comment in a Forum, in which case Search both the RR and International Forums.
Good Luck.
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not yet, but i plan on doing so. i work away so time on the net is difficult
Gordon
I suspect the 'old fashioned' telephone will be better, as far as having a two way exchange with Gordon Finlay is concerned.
Good Luck.
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Well, as far as the 38A is concerned, there is a deliberate characteristic built into the complete assembly to delay the gear change. It helps the engine to warm up more quickly. It will be in the manual.
Without looking at this time of night, I think it's described in terms of not locking up in top gear until the engine is up to temperature, so that might not be exactly the same as you people are experiencing. How noticeable it is to the user may be influenced by the driving conditions they experience in the first few miles.
But as I say, it is described in the Manuals, somewhere.
Good Luck!
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I guess there are many ways at "killing the cat".. One Dav Sparks was against uneven pressure advocated on the Cylinder and here I hear an off-road-Competing Guru telling he unevenly pushes them in!
SNIPI think you misunderstand what I meant.
I really don't mind if you push the piston back singly or in pairs; and as Dave W has mentioned it, I don't mind if you use a spanner or an active hamster (joke).
Anything is valid IF, repeat IF, it works.
Whatever you had tried clearly hadn't worked.
My point about using an old pad, and pushing on that, is that it minimised the chances of you jamming a piston at an angle in the bore.
Clearly you can push directly on a single piston, but you have to make sure the push is directed correctly. If you are sure about that, and the piston still doesn't move, the answer is not a bigger hammer (AKA a stronger clamp, crowbar, or whatever) but a stop and rethink to work out exactly what IS wrong.
The other point about following the guidelines of people who do competition is that they are into their cars at very frequent intervals. Parts like caliper pistons, propshaft UJ's, etc, simply do not have chance to corrode in place. Plus the operator has developed tools and techniques to work quickly and overcome common obstacles.
This is a case where a Road vehicle is harder to work on than a Competition vehicle. The different style of use creates different problems.
Regarding the other bit of wisdom you have received, about some jobs are 'not worth the pennies of DIY', this is only true if:
A/ You are doing DIY only to save pennies.
B/ You trust the person doing the work to both do it properly, and not to go for the expensive option because it's simpler for him and he is not paying, you are!
Some of us do DIY because we only trust our own work, because we can do it at a time to suit ourselves (even mid-competition), and it gives us an opportunity to do a visual check on other items in the vicinity, perhaps catching something before it breaks or wears out.
And Yes, it does save us money.
Good Luck
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my head hurts now after reading all the above links / posts...!
the verdict seems to be that you can't get an american engine to speak to a british brain lol !
Snip
Why have you discounted the comments / links that imply Gordon Finlay and Mark Adams have put an LS1 in a 38A?
Have you already spoken to Gordon and forgotten to tell us of the outcome?
Cheers.
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A defender 130 was stolen in Leigh, Kent on friday evening. More importantly the owners dogs were in it.
http://www.nobs.org.uk/forum/phpbb2/viewto...&highlight=
Please keep your eyes peeled
If you are going for wider publicity, perhaps you should put the details on a forum that doesn't require registration before the details can be viewed?
HTH
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False call signals to the Receiver is the most likely cause.
Search the Rangerovers.net 38A Forum where this will be mentioned. I'm surprised it hasn't made it to the main site, but I haven't looked.
Try this for the sleep test http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title=BeCM
The Alarm Receiver aerial is the smaller of the two in the rearmost RH side window.
The receiver itself is under the plastic shelf just inside that window.
The receiver only has two connections, and it's pretty clear which is power and which is aerial.
As you aren't comfortable doing drain tests (and the 38A is a bit more complex than most wrt what is normal and what isn't), disconnect the aerial for a first step. The key remote will still work if held close to the glass of the particular window.
If this proves to be the cure, new receivers that ignore false calls are available, but the price of about £150 puts most people off. Details are here (scroll down) http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title...ys_and_Security
In the UK you want the 433MHz version.
Beware buying one second hand. The units don't (didn't) have the part number on, so I could sell you my old one as a new version, and you would never know, until the problem wasn't cured, when I'd just tell you it must be your diagnosis that was wrong, tough.
Forgot to say that the most likely cause of false calls is domestic 'wireless' equipment. NOT repeat NOT a home WiFi network, or Bluetooth, but cack like external weather stations signalling the base station, or wireless door bells, or wireless baby monitors, or garage door / gate openers, that sort of thing. These might be yours or your neighbours.
HTH
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I also went for OEM. I didn't want any 'poly' devices because:
I didn't know what the resulting ride would be like.
I expected the life would be less, because the inner metal bush is not bonded to the flexible 'poly'.
The purchase price was higher.
You don't say whether you DIY or not.
Note the OEM bush has a larger external diameter than the hole in the radius arm.
The official way of resolving this is to push the bush through a tapered sleeve before the bush enters the arm.
I believe some people on here have created / used some other method.
HTH
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I think I've seen some mention of this in the 38A forum on www.rangerovers.net.
It might be worth while looking, but it may also be a waste of time, I just haven't been paying attention to the topic.
So people may have been asking questions, or commenting on their day dreaming, or there might just be reference to someone who has done it.
Not much help I feel, so couldn't leave it like that:
Try http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic...0&hilit=LS1
And http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic...lit=ls1#p199636
You will see (I only saw) one mention of a successful build, and that is in the UK. Both Gordon Finlay and Mark Adams come with good reputations for the quality of their work, as far as I am concerned.
Good Luck, and I hope your deep pockets are full of money.
Cheers
SNIP
brakes
in Series Forum
Posted
Do you think it's a front or a rear brake that is sticking on when the vehicle is laden?