David Sparkes
-
Posts
2,538 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by David Sparkes
-
-
We call them VIN numbers.
I know this is incorrect, as they aren't the full VIN number.
The first letter shows the Model Year (which can be different to the Calendar year).
The second letter (A) shows it was built in Solihull, not as a Complete Knock Down (CKD) kit somewhere in the British Empire.
Yep, the letter is redundant at the moment, but it's there for the future (when TATA create a production plant in India, or China). The digits are just the Serial Number.
As it's the VIN, the number won't be on the engine.
The number could be on a plate riveted under the bonnet somewhere.
It could be on a sticky label, also under the bonnet.
It might be on a label visible through the lower part of the windscreen.
It could be on a label stuck to the lower part of the A pillar, visible when you open the door (RHF in the UK, presumably LHF in the US).
HTH
PS "VIN Number" is also 'incorrect', as it expands to Vehicle Identification Number Number, but it occurs because we use VIN as a word, not as initials, because it's easier.
Cheers.
-
James,
Whoever said MOSFETs had gone out of fashion? I referred to THE MOSFETs. The ones designed with matching electronic components into a circuit developed before 1994; I suggest that in Electronics that's a long time ago.
"If you can't get hold of the same part, you should be able to get one with very similar if not identical characteristics. "
Go on then.
As an alternative to following your own research path, you might like to start by looking at the link I gave to Andy Cunningham's Landywiki site. There you will see numbers of the original and A superseding version.
Following the links to the Philips Data sheets might prove interesting to you.
Then perhaps try searching on the 4.0 / 4.6 Forum on RangeRovers.net; MOSFET is probably a good search term, but I haven't had to search before, as I watched the conversations unfold the first time around. Look at the dates of the posts. People on there were not finding it easy.
There will be people in that Forum very pleased to be told of a source of spare parts they can tap into, suitable for solving the type of problem Jordo outlines.
I shan't be holding my breath :-))
-
Jordo, I think you are correct, it's the BECM.
The advice to get RAVE is good, in that you get an idea how the circuit should work, but frankly I think you have just been pushed in the deep end, and as you say, you already feel the water is above head height, and the bottom is muddy.
There is an interesting write up on this page, see BECM Repair and What it Lead To (sic).
The snag nowadays is that the MOSFETs are not easy to get hold of. It is old technology after all.
http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title=BeCM
I saw a couple of BECMs for sale on Ebay, but be aware there is a reprogramming charge somewhere along the line to make your keys match the 'new' BECM. The safe advice is to find someone who is comfortable with commissioning a 'new' BECM for you before splashing out £125.00 or whatever.
I see there are both suppliers and repairers on ebay - I don't know any of them.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...-All-Categories
Good Luck.
-
Be warned that some garages at least are less than inclined to go near the A-frame (classic at least - I think it's a similar setup on the P38a?) as they fear they'll end up having to do the ball joint too.
As you asked the question ... the answer is No, the 38A doesn't have the A frame like the Classic.
The radius arms for the rear axle have 'conventional' rubber bushes at the chassis end, and don't look too difficult to change. I've never done it.
The axle end is completely different, as the arm is clamped, and doesn't pivot around the mounting point; if those ever go I'd suggest it's a case of new arms, as these twist in use to fulfill an anti-roll function, as well as an axle location function.
HTH
-
"But, by applying the power, I will probably bollix up the centre diff in the LT230 in very short order!"
If using Fiddle brakes, that isn't how I read the comments.
With one fiddle brake applied the centre diff will feed power to both propshafts, so will survive.
It's only if you stop BOTH rear wheels, and thus the rear propshaft, that the centre diff objects to have one output going really fast, while the other is stationary.
Mind you, I also read into the comments that the diffs were not being used in the same circumstances I thought fiddle brakes would be used, IE, to do a sharp turn, either round an obstacle, or to avoid an obstacle. In this scenario I wouldn't expect a fiddle brake to be applied for anything like 30 seconds, maybe 10 or less.
What do people who actually use fiddle brakes say - how long is a typical application?
Cheers
-
For the record, glass grit and glass beads are NOT the same animal.
I see you have become enthusiastic about glass grit. How does it compare with aluminium oxide for removing material, and how does it compare with AO for re-usability?
I use about 60 psi, and just keep recycling the oxide, topping up the pressure pot with fresh as required. I assume that as the oxide particles become finer they get drawn out of the cabinet vent system.
I'm mostly cleaning steel of different descriptions, sometimes de-rusting, then welding or painting, sometimes just roughening for painting. I find with AO that I need to polish to a bright finish, with a flap wheel or similar, those areas I want to weld. I have concluded I'm removing Aluminium contamination by this final flap wheel clean.
It's private work, not commercial.
Cheers
-
Whats the swivel pre load value.
Depends on the model / year of Land Rover.
Best to refer to the Workshop Manual relevant to your car.
That is, if you want to double check on the figures given in the extract that's attached in post 3.
HTH
-
If you have to ask, you won't understand.
Time for you to move on.
-
"any idea's as i am getting colder by the day. "
Bleed the system. With the engine off and cold, open one of the pipe joints on the path to the heater matrix. Pour a 50/50 mix of antifreeze / water into one of the open ends (a funnel can help). Stop when coolant pours out of the other half of the open joint.
Now close the joint and top up the engine by the conventional method.
This often involves filling the radiator via any large plug screwed into one corner, THEN topping up any expansion bottle to the correct mark.
For the moment, leave the cap off the expansion tank and the plug OFF the radiator. Start the engine and watch the coolant through the plug hole. As the thermostat is closed there should be little or no flow, although the level may drop. When it starts to flow (and rise in level), screw the plug in. Wait a little longer before replacing the cap on the expansion tank. Again, act when the level reaches the neck of the filler.
Throughly warm the engine (take it for a drive of about 5 miles). Take a screwdriver, your funnel, and some fresh coolant mix with you, which will hopefully ensure you don't need them.
On your return, examine for leaks, leave the bonnet open so the engine cools. When cool check the levels; radiator first, then the expansion tank. Top up as required.
Check levels, in the expansion tank at least, before or after every trip.
If after a few trips, you find you are always topping the tank up, or the heater started hot but has reverted to blowing cold, you need to find the coolant leak.
It could be external to the engine, but it could also be a head gasket. The thermostat was probably removed in an attempt to stop the engine overheating; and it was overheating because of low coolant.
As a very temporary fix, try leaving the cap off the expansion tank all the time; just don't leave the engine idling in traffic. If the system isn't pressurised it will be less likely to leak through any gaskets.
If it appears to be relevant, start searching on 'V8 coolant loss' in any forum you care to choose.
At less than 30 posts I understand you don't have access to the Technical Archive on this Forum, but there may be some informative posts in the different sub-forums.
Good Luck.
-
When I fitted an oil temperature gauge I fitted it in the sump, as I wasn't trying to measure the hottest point of the oil, but the temperature of the bulk of the oil.
Some people want to measure the oil where it leaves the engine to head towards the oil cooler. Note that if a thermostat is fitted (as it should be) the oil temp sensor should be the engine side of the thermostat.
As to actual temperature I think the best advice is to speak to the company whose oil you use.
As a rule of thumb you want it hot enough to steam off condensation and the water by-products of combustion, but not so hot that the additive package in the oil starts to break down prematurely.
I would have in mind 100 to 120 C, but I would follow my own advice and be prepared to modify that after speaking to the oil manufacturer.
Do note that it takes a LOT longer for oil to reach temperature, compared to coolant. Oil will never get warm while the engine is idling, the engine has to be producing power.
I've picked up information from Land Rover factory manuals about earlier styles of engine (and oil).
The Series 2 handbook states max oil temperature to be 90 degrees C when used to drive auxiliary equipment driven via a PTO.
2.5TD Oil Pressure is 35 - 65 psi @ 2000 rpm
Oil Cooler was apparently optional. Feed & return at oil filter attachment point, which had a thermostat added when a cooler was fitted. I found no information on the additional oil capacity, nor the thermostat opening temperature, nor the recommended oil temperatures for the 2.5TD.
The bit about earlier LR engines may or may not help.
I see the 300TDi engine (taken from the Disco 1 manual) gives :
Pressure, engine warm at normal operating speeds 25 - 55lbf/in 2 = 1,76 - 3,87Kgf cm 2 ........
HTH
-
Came across a problem with the brake hoses. Went to fit the new ones and they look nothing like the existing ones. Mine are braided and have female ends at both ends. The standard LR hoses are male at both ends. Gawd knows what set up I have.
I now have the problem of trying to get the correct hose ordered and then collected and the car dropped off on Wednesday so I can get the free MOT retest, or I just drop it off at the garage and get them to order and fit the new hoses.
I feel the latter option is the easiest, although I am loathed to take it to the garage to have it's hoses replaced and brakes bled as it is such an easy and quick job, but I just can't see me getting the parts in time to get the free restest.
sigh.
It's possible that whoever fitted the braided hoses fitted either new hard pipes, or remade the ends on the existing hard pipes, to suit the braided hoses.
I don't know what alternatives were fitted by the factory, so can't say what is 'right' or 'wrong'.
A picture or two might help others provide solutions or part numbers to fit what exists.
That is pictures of the hard pipe end fitting, with the existing braided pipes, and the 'incorrect' OEM flexible pipes, together with the part number.
I appreciate it's frustrating having to give it back to the garage in the hope they will have parts that fit on the shelf.
In the summer it's easier to work into the night to fit parts obtained during the day, but in the winter ...
HTH.
-
Sparkles eh, not many people use that adjective concerning me!!
I was told this, by people who don't do this, but who were passing on what they have heard.
In my opinion, the tellers don't have a deep knowledge of how a transmission Viscous Coupling works. This was part of the reason I didn't challenge the detail.
Drivers of vehicles with a transmission Viscous Coupling achieve the 'pivot on a sixpence' behaviour of fiddle brakes by combining application of the normal rear propshaft handbrake with strong application of the throttle pedal (and steering lock).
The rationale, I was told, is that the VC was 'behaving as it is designed to', which based on my knowledge of VC's is incorrect.
This is all I was told.
In addition I'll add that the users of this technique will be running open rear differentials.
My analysis is that the drivers are using the power of modern engines to overcome the natural slip limiting behavoir of the VC. The result, of powered front wheels on full lock combined with unpowered rear wheels is a given.
We can surmise that the inner rear wheel tends to lock, while the outer wheel turns, but I haven't viewed this technique in action.
I suspect the VC won't last long, but I also suspect that second hand ones aren't expensive, and can be changed without the 'heavy engineering' of removing the gearbox.
I don't have detailed knowledge or experience of 'your' type of vehicle, but the thought crossed my mind that by unlocking your centre and rear differentials, at the same time as applying the propshaft handbrake, might give the same effect. I can see that doing three things at once with the left hand might be a little difficult, but I haven't overheard a suggestion about overcoming that problem :-))
Perhaps you can arrange a control that when enabled, means that subsequent application of the handbrake automatically unlocks the two differentials.
I have assumed the technique won't work with a locked rear axle differential, as this would resist the turning effect given by the front wheels on full lock.
Have fun!
-
As a curiosity, and picking up something I heard (or misheard) at a club night; what sort of locking device have you got for the centre differential?
-
Are your nozzles fitted to the bonnet? If they are then might be worth re-routing/extending the pipes to expose them to heat from the engine - will have the same effect as heated nozzles.
Yes, and the pipes are routed as you suggest, as standard.
-
Classics certainly had heated screens too. See I knew they were superior to the P38!!!
:P I am genuinely surprised that heated washers are not available on P38's as you certainly need them in North America, which was the main target market for the P38 when it was launched (I think
)Hmm, I won't argue that the North American market will have had high consideration during the design stage.
But on the other hand, for several years I've been reading a lot of comments on the 38A Rangerovers.net Forum from North American owners. Complaints about the lack of heated nozzles are conspicuous by their absence.
As I tried to imply, if you have fluid of the appropriate strength, this takes care of the temperatures experienced while standing.
Additional wind chill is taken care of by the V8 heater under the bonnet, covered by an insulated blanket, that channels the heat to the space around the nozzles.
Either that or they, and the Nordic countries, have coping strategies that seem so obvious to them that they don't need to comment.
Of course, I could look all innocent, and postulate 'Why would you want the extra complexity of heated nozzles?'.
As with many items, Air Suspension being the most notable, LR used the last years of the Classic as a test bed for ideas to be implemented on the 38A. It seems heated nozzles were considered un-necessary.
I hope no-one is taking this too seriously!
Cheers.
-
Classics from about F reg onwards had heated nozzles as standard. Classic SE's had heated screens as standard.
No heated nozzles listed on EPC as fitting a P38.
Jon
I always try to be a bit cautious when commenting on the specs of Classics, as all I know about them is what I've picked up off the internet, and you know how good that is as a source of reliable information :-)
-
As a 38A specific part, no I don't think they are available.
With a combination of a heated screen, a 50/50 screenwash / water mix, and the under-bonnet insulation cut away (as standard) round the nozzles (which allows engine heat to warm the nozzle area) I don't really see the need.
Put another way, I don't recall a situation where frozen nozzles have been a problem in the last few UK winters, in this part of the UK.
I seem to recall that Classics had heated nozzles, but I don't think they had heated screens.
I suspect the difference is my use of the 50/50 mix.
Good Luck.
-
Yes.So when the engine has run for a few mins the fan should be able to move around a lot easier by pushing it ?
This assumes the thermostat is at the engine end of the top hose, and that the coolant flows through the thermostat, then the top hose, then the radiator. This configuration is so common it's almost standard, but there are variations. The BMW diesel engine has the thermostat at the engine end of the bottom hose, so the coolant flows through the radiator before it flows through the thermostat.If you could tell me how to do the stat I will give it a shot at the weekend.Back to the 'standard'.
Start the engine from cold. Constantly monitor the temperature of the top hose with your fingers. The hose should remain cold, if it gradually gets warmer and warmer it's likely the thermostat is open, partially or fully doesn't really matter. Slightly open is enough to mess things up, especially in a diesel.
What should happen is that SUDDENLY the top of the hose gets very hot, especially at the engine end, while the underneath of the hose is still cool. Naturally it doesn't take long for the temperature to equalise all around the hose. It is the SUDDEN change from cool to hot, with a significant change in temperature, that indicates the thermostat WAS fully closed, and then opens.
If the top of the radiator is metal, you can monitor the top of the radiator where the hose is attached, rather than the hose. The advantage of this is that the rubber hose insulates the radiator from the engine. Although heat is conducted along the hose the rate is so slow that you cannot be mislead by heat conduction through the structure (metal and rubber).
Again, the test point of the radiator will be cold, until the thermostat opens, when it rapidly becomes finger burning hot.
This RAPID change is why I wrote CONSTANTLY monitor the temperature. If you don't keep a close check you won't spot the change point.
HTH.
-
Well,
You are asking if the viscous fan should turn all the time.
The 'YES' answer you have got is quite correct, but it doesn't cover the points you should be asking, IF you knew how the fan viscous coupling works.
Check with the bonnet open.
Reach in and flick the fan round by hand, noting how far it goes round for each flick. the coupling should be fairly stiff, and in fact indicates the hot setting.
On an engine left standing overnight, in the morning the fan will ALWAYS turn at high speed, producing much noise and air flow for the first couple of minutes. After that time, the fan will (should) noticeably slow down. Well, you notice the change in sound and airflow, you cannot 'see' the speed difference.
Now stop the engine, reach in and flick the fan round by hand. The fan should spin noticeably more easily than it did a couple of minutes previously. This is the cold setting.
If you get this pattern of operation it's almost certain the fan VC is OK, the only aspect you haven't tested is when the radiator is really hot.
Sometimes the fan VC will fail seized, so this stops the fan changing to it's slow / quiet mode, and overcools the engine.
Sometimes the fan VC will fail by excessive slip when hot, which causes the engine to overheat.
Of course, you may not have anything wrong with the fan VC. The thermostat may be stuck open.
You should now have enough information to fault the system (I'm assuming you already know how to check thermostat operation with it in-situ).
HTH
-
Time to try Britpart?Jump leads ..... It is very hard to find good ones over here. Most have thick looking cables but are mainly insulation with a tiny core.
No. This is why we need to find where the voltage is being dropped. At 13.7 the battery is never getting a full charge. In your current weather conditions (your previous photo) I suggest putting the battery on charge every night (assuming you are using the vehicle during the day). Charge at a low current (if you have a choice) and make sure the battery is kept topped up with distilled water. Do this over several days (nights).Would a reading from a single good battery of 13.7V be acceptable when the alternator reads 14.2V. When we tried this the V still dropped at the battery when the revs were increased?.Voltage dropping as the revs increase is not something I recall coming across before. See if one of the others has anything to add.
-
Quite possible. While you are testing the complete system, it seems to me that having two batteries is a distraction. As you don't have a split charge arrangement you can feed everything off one battery (until you get the system proved OK, or fixed). I said use a jump lead because I didn't envisage you being without one. I thought they would be a standard part of the vehicles inventory. For the tests I described, the lead isn't taking any current, so a bit of house flex would have done the job, just make sure the connection to the battery is good and tight, and at the other end of the flex make sure the test meter clip also has a good clean connection.Hi, I did the tests yesterday and this is what. I had to modify the 2nd test as I couldn't find jump lead. My local mechanic friend thinks that the original battery that I replaced was the main culprit and that my 2nd battery is only slightly better with the newest battery keeping things ticking over.
Unlikely that there was excessive current draw EXCEPT that I'd expect an 18 wheeler to have a 24volt system. Did you get a boost from the full 24 volts, or did the driver pick a mid point connection on his battery pack, and only give you 12 volts? If you got the full 24volts I suspect there are two options; either you get away with it, OR the alternator dies completely. As yours is still working, to some extent at least, I'd say the jump start didn't alter the state of affairs.He thinks the first alternator was damaged by the current from the 18 wheeler that jump started me in Hungary. Do you agree?
In light of your later comment, was either of the batteries fully connected at this point?Alternator +ve to –ve was 14.2V
This was risky, and in one way, a surprising result. You aren't supposed to run an alternator with the battery disconnected, as the alternator voltage 'normally' climbs too high, with damage to the regulator, and any load items (bulbs or ECUs) that happen to be switched on at the time. However, it's possible that modern alternators have an improved design to protect against this form of self destruction.Then both +ve leads disconnected from batteries with engine running. Multimeter from +ve disconnected batteries to connected –ve leads read 14.2V
These voltages are lower than I would like to see, for fully charged batteries. When connected in this state, what was the reading across the alternator? 13.7, 14.2, or something else?As soon as the +ve leads were replaced with engine running the combined V dropped to 13.3V. Battery readings separately were 13.7V for the new battery and 13.1V for the existing battery.Cheers,
-
Having checked out both it seems that nearly all NAS cars/trucks etc have OBD I or II (on board diagnostics) for the North American market. This is due to legislation they have over there. As such there seems to be plenty of choices for a diagnostic tool which can interpret fault codes and help sort/clear them at a pretty reasonable cost (from what I have read between $80 - $160 US). So it seems I will head down this route for the time being and find out a little more info.
I do suggest you keep in mind that OBDII ONLY covers specific items, and there are probably more of them applicable to Petrol engines than applicable to Diesel engines.
Also bear in mind that Land Rover fit specific electronics (the alarm has been mentioned) that will never be covered by OBDII.
Essentially, I'd say a code reader that is OBDII specific is Engine, Engine, Engine, and that's why they are cheap.
Something that covers the complete Land Rover will be more expensive, but you get more for your money.
If you want more detailed information on OBDII, it's background, development, etc, are you aware there is extensive coverage in the EOBD section of any RAVE disc that covers the Disco II? It's basically a training session for any mechanic who is coming across it for the first time.
As with everything else here, we can only hint. Specifics will be up to you.
Two more general points:
There are many posters on the Blackbox Support Forum (only open to owners of BS kit) who want specific and detailed cures, when all they can offer is the factory DTC. It doesn't work like that, not for ANY Code Reader. The user has to add the DTC to whatever other information he has about the car, and puzzle out the corrective action for himself.
There will never be a list that says DTC = This, to cure it do That.
Secondly, if you want direct input from the boss of Blackbox (and expect a dismissive or even acidic response if you ask him about competing products), then go to the RangeRovers.net Diagnostic or Vendors Forums. You may not be asking about a Range Rover, but I'll be amazed if he can resist answering a specific query.
Do phrase your enquiry so it reflects the research you have done. An open question like 'tell me all about the Facilities of xxxx as applied to a xxxx' will get you the justified dusty answer of 'read the bleeding website', or words to that effect :-))
Good Luck
-
Re 38A use, I am not a fan of the V8 engine in any guise, for reasons of unreliability, and fuel consumption.
I'm aware of LPG, but it restricts the range on a full tank, adds another complication when the engine starts to misbehave, costs about £2k to install a good sequential system that won't backfire, and pinches A LOT of luggage space.
You are looking for a 'Wife and Toddler' friendly transport system; I don't think she would be happy without a spare wheel, but selling that issue is up to you. Would she change the wheel in the event of a puncture? If not, would she prefer the car to be transported somewhere, or prefer a mechanic to change the wheel?
A wheel and tyre is very heavy, you need to devise a good method of securing it in the load bay.
If you get permission to do away with the spare wheel, some of these problems go away.
I have assumed that on some occasions the W&C will be in the car while you are somewhere else.
By 2000MY the 4.6 may have been fixed regarding the issues that make it unreliable, but you will have to research with someone else for that.
Actually, the problem appears to centre around high cylinder head temperatures occuring while running with weak mixtures. These occour on light throttle use, which is why the 4.00 is 'safer', it's generally working that bit harder. A 4.6 with something on the hook will also be working that bit harder. Of course, you never know what usage the previous owners subjected it to.
Cheers.
-
I think what q-rover is getting at is that the diesel 38A is generally considered to be underpowered, and that's before you hang ~2 tons on the back. Some people are happy to use them as tow vehicles, but I can't say I'd want one.
Incidentally, I have run a Diesel 38A for 9 years. After my research, and test drives, I booked it in with JJF for a big intercooler and fuelling re-programme the very day I brought it home. This makes a good difference, but as you have shown a preference for 'performance' motors I still don't know if even a modified one is suitable for you.
You can only tell after test driving an example, and I am not volunteering you mine.
By the by, the air suspension system, like anything else on the car, is only expensive if you pay someone else to fix it.
Rover Renovations is the source of supply and expertise on the suspension system. Set their site to display prices in UK pounds and have a browse. Only think of maintenance to it's standard spec. As you will know from your toy car, upgrading with performance parts costs a lot more money than standard. As such, you should not complain about running costs if you start using maintenance as an excuse for upgrading.
Most of the bodyshell is aluminium, over steel frames. Use a magnet if you want to check which is which, but be aware that a strong magnet will 'soft stick' to aluminium, because the magnet is picking up the steel that is behind the aluminium. The most noticeable body corrosion point is the lower edge of the lower tailgate. That's it.
If it's important to you, the standard paint is extremely good, and can be brought up to a very good shine.
The advantage of the post 2000 MY is that you get virtually all the goodies, particularly ETC on all four wheels.
The BMW diesel has a reputation for poor warm starting, and can blow it's head gasket if it regularly overheats. Generally both those traits are in older vehicles. There was an engine upgrade for (I think) the 99 model year, evidenced by the inlet manifold being in black 'plastic' not grey aluminium. People cannot retro-fit the inlet manifold, as the manifold attachment studs were re-orientated IE the cylinder head changed as well. The water pump also changed at some time, from a plastic to a metal impeller. I have never seen anything on official documentation that said exactly what engine upgrades were put in place by BMW, but as they reportedly had problems with this engine overheating (under arduous Continental European usage) when used in their own vehicles, it would not surprise me that a post 2000 MY vehicle gained from some improvements as well.
BMW considered the engine good enough to be the basis of a 4 valve 3.0 version used by themselves, and Land Rover in the early days of the L322 Range Rover.
Good Luck.
:P 
)
TD5 stopped while driving along
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Fuel pump pressure? (IE Pump failure or pressure sensor failure).
I'm just recalling what seem to be frequent posts on the Blackbox Forum.
Good Luck.