David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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As the subject says, there is a variant of the 'sticky out' Series 2 door hinge that has an ear included in the casting. There is even an ear 'ole in which a mirror is mounted. This hole is ~5/8" diameter, which is much larger than a standard Series mirror arm (DA2128 or 262658).
If it helps the hinges are 346376 (RH) and 346377 (LH). Pictures for these and the DA2128 can be found on the LRSeries.com site. 262658 can be found on Land Rover Orphanage.
The search is for a mirror arm which fills the hole, can someone help?
Thanks.
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Thanks for the comprehensive feedback, most unusual, but most welcome.
Your experience demonstrates that sometimes all the forum advice in the world cannot beat the competent application of TLC.
Sometimes there is benefit in tightening any slack from the steering box.
IME wear in the track rod or drag link can be found by dropping a road wheel into a grate hole in the gutter, or similar using a sunken manhole cover. You will feel the wheel / axle drop, and hear it thump, but if the steering wheel stays steady, all is well. When the steering wheel shakes or twitches slightly, that's the time to buy in some bits.
I'd leave well alone for now - just somethings for the future.
Glad you are enjoying the car.
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there was some stuff used for the good ole 4.6 v8 , i used it in my racer with good results , only thing with it , you must follow the instructions exactly, i will find out its name and repost it here , got to be worth a go imo .
Kalimex 'Seal-up' is the product (mentioned by QTdarren) used on the slipped liner petrol engines. This DOES NOT mix with antifreeze, which is why you have to follow the instructions.
Kalimex 'K-seal' does mix with anti-freeze, and may be suitable in this instance.
Both may be available off a certain auction site, but will probably be cheaper from Kalimex themselves, or from a local stockist
http://www.kalimex.silkhosts.org.uk/acatal...ctRange.php#a23 shows the Kalimex price. Look round the site for a 'find your stockist' feature. Locally, one in Matlock quoted £10.00, one in Clay Cross charged £8.80.
Good Luck, and let us know how you get on, thanks.
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.... door actuator may not be reading my key. I am trying to find out how to test it and remove it to clean it if possible ....
Locate the 'lights on' warning light (it's between the two dials). Switch the sidelights on and off so you are clear where it is, and what it looks like. Leave the lights switched off.
It is the 'lights on' warning light that tells you if each single twist of the key has been 'seen' electrically by the BECM, by flashing on, then going off after a short pause.
Next, wind the drivers window down, and leave it down.
Now standing outside the car but with your head poked in the window space, use the EKA procedure as per the handbook.
The light is mentioned, but it's easy to treat the mention as irrelevant.
The micro-switch itself is part of the door latch mechanism, which 'probably' has to be removed if you want to fiddle.
It's 'possible' that the whole latch assembly is covered in dried out grease, and this is inhibiting free movement of the mechanical bits, so not operating the switch. You might be able to flood the latch while it is in-situ with some sort of solvent, even WD40 will help to wash away the dried grease and dirt.
It's easier to do this in-situ cleaning if you remove the door trim panel, but you can, just about, see the latch by use of a small torch, by viewing down past the glass (with the glass fully down). You may have to insert a soft wedge to push the glass sideways to get this view.
It is this view that enables you to see that the rod connecting the key mechanism and the latch is in place, which it must be in your case, otherwise you could not open the door with the key.
Obviously these comments only cover 'does the switch work or not?'; they do not cover everything that could be wrong.
As Dave W says, 'friendly re-synchronisation' should work in your case. (FS is how it's described in the manuals. I can't be certain if it's in the Workshop Manual Electrical Section, where it describes the BECM functionality, or the ETM)
Good Luck.
PS
Removing the latch is not easy.
And if, having got it out, you thought that was hard, wait until you try dismantling the latch because you have a grand scheme to change just the switch (which is not available as an LR part - RR.net has some details).
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As an owner of a 38A for 9 years my advise is that you are not in the best forum for your purposes.
While several forum regulars run 38As, they don't appear to be enthusiastic enough to answer a lot of questions.
I'll admit I don't keep a regular watch on other UK forums, but like this one, they tend to be called 'Range Rover', covering Classics as well as everything else.
www.RangeRovers.net is a good online resource anyway, has separate Forums for each type of Range Rover, and is where you will get more responses to any questions. More responses means more rubbish as well as more quality, but you won't be expecting perfection.
Whichever Forum you use, it's a good idea to put your Location in your Profile. Include your country in an International Forum like those on RangeRovers.net. There are plenty of other UK residents on there.
The Paddocks Brooklands book is described as a print of the pukka workshop manual, so it's good, if you are up to books prepared for trained mechanics. As another poster said, not everyone is, so sometimes a Haynes can be better BUT, as far as I know, there isn't a Haynes for a 38A.
Secondly, in LR 38A speak, a Workshop Manual is 95% Mechanical - but don't ignore the 5% Electrical.
The main Electrical information is in the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM). From Land Rover this was separate publication, at another ~£55.00.
I'm not familiar with the Brooklands WM, but I suspect it also does not cover the ETM.
Practically, most people download a RAVE CD2 Image from the GreenOval site, as it's more or less free.
http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?opt...3&Itemid=29
You have to convert the Image into a CD, then I suggest you copy the whole CD onto your Hard Drive, maintaining the directory structure. Create a shortcut to the RAVE.EXE file in the root directory of the CD.
Rave has both WM and ETM, also some Technical Bulletins, although perhaps not those that cover a 2001 model. When you have confirmed / corrected your Paint Code number I suspect the answer will be in there somewhere.
You can use looking for it as a necessary training session. Hint, don't ignore the Search facility within the PDF Reader.
Search this site for RAVE and you may pick up more tips.
Good Luck, and welcome to the 38A world.
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HI there.
Can you say/do you know, how much the subscription is for GTR? It looks a good thing, but it does not say how much unless I go through the signing up process.
Many thanks.
Howard.
2X300TdiDef.
No, I'm afraid I couldn't.
I didn't think it was expensive, provided you committed to trawling for 'everything' for your model / year, and downloading it during the period you subscribe for. Don't forget Service Bulletins and Recall Bulletins, as well as the Workshop and Electrical manuals.
I'd try a search here, or on any other LR Forums you frequent, using 'GTR' or 'Global Technical Recourse'. Somebody may have posted the costs up. Perhaps I saw it in the 38A Forum on the RangeRovers.net site.
Cheers.
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have a look in our tech archive index under manuals first off & try www.green-oval.com in their download section look for RAVE, that is the workshop manuals.
Surely for a 2007 Model it's a case of GTR or GTR?
http://www.landrovertechinfo.com/extlrprod/market.jsp
HTH
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Has anyone had a similar problem with XPort?
No, mine works OK on Windows XP, SP3, all updates applied.
Are there any decent (preferably free) registry scan/fix programs out there?Decent, Yes.
Free, Don't know.
I have tried two so-called free scan-fix downloads, but they don't fix the important problems unless you pay for them, and one found 286 errors and the other found 401 so I'm not entirely sure that I trust them anyway!This is no different, in principle, to making a choice between buying your suspension modification package from one supplier in preference to another. Just because the two produce different results doesn't mean that both are untrustworthy.
You jib at paying for either of them, but how many pints of beer (or litres of petrol) is one of them going to cost you?
Less than you would spend when attending a club meeting, probably.
When I was researching Registry Cleaners I found that people who earned a living from writing about Computers were a bit sniffy, but hand in hand with this approach was their suggestion that a complete re-install of the operating system was the way to go, and was 'easy'. (I am not convinced about the effectiveness of re-installing an OS, and adding the Service Packs can take a long, long, time).
On the other hand, people who were just computer users, and were fed up with the PC reacting badly, for no readily identifiable reasons, were more open about accepting the benefits, even if they didn't know exactly what was going on when the spanner (the Registry Cleaner) was applied.
These are both generalisations, and I'm sure exceptions exist, but you asked for advice in this area, and it's only fair to advise you about the scorn that may be coming your way.
I don't earn any money from writing about PCs, so I belong in the second user set. My PC had been running for years with the same Windows XP installation. The PC had become generally slow, both to start up and to start programmes.
I first used a paid for Registry Cleaner about 18 months ago, when it made a significant difference to the speed of the PC. Subsequent scans always found some 'faults', some of which I could understand, some I couldn't, but I always had them all corrected. About 12 months ago I found the programme had a built in scheduler, set as standard for 3.00 am on a Thursday, when the PC was normally never on.
I found the support desk to be responsive and helpful. Even though there was no problem, apparently just because I'd made a Service Enquiry, they re-started my 12 month subscription, which in my view was good Customer Service.
I reset the scheduler to 9.00 am on Sundays, when I was generally present. After this it ran every week. There were no major negative side-effects, although occasionally a Task Bar icon might have disappeared unexpectedly. I never lost anything, and nothing ever stopped working totally.
It always said it took a Registry Backup, but I never had cause to invoke it.
It never insisted or requested a PC re-boot after running.
I did notice that sometimes the same 'faults' appeared week after week.
There was never the same leap in performance to match the effect after the first run, but that seems reasonable to me.
It's a bit like doing a total rebuild on an engine, which gives a noticeable leap in performance, then servicing the engine on a regular basis, which doesn't give the same leap, but maintains the higher performance.
About 2 months ago I changed to a different Registry Cleaner.
It has a more aggressive (or thorough) approach to finding faults. (It finds more of them, even on a previously cleaned registry).
Once a 'fault' has been corrected, it doesn't come back next week.
It includes Registry Defragmentation as an additional tool (but at no extra cost).
It requests the PC is re-booted after the clean. I happened to monitor the Hard Drive free space, and this stepped up after the re-boot. Now I use Firefox as my browser, and thus don't lose any open tabs, I'm happy to use the re-boot (normally I Hibernate the PC every night).
It takes a full or partial Registry Backup (user choice) but I've never had cause to invoke it.
There is no built in Scheduler, but I'm happy to run the Cleaner manually every Sunday.
I've only run the Defrag tool once, on a Wednesday, so I could assess any results separately. I'm not sure how much it helped, so I think I'll use it occasionally, or after a significant change to the PC, such as changing to a new Browser (if it ever happens).
I do Defrag the hard drive occasionally, via O+O Defrag.
I've recalled that a long time in the past I used Error Nuker, but was never motivated to spend money.
The first paid for programme was RegCure. http://www.regcure.com/
The second paid for programme Registry Booster 2 (now RB 2009) by Uniblue. http://www1.uniblue.com/
I haven't used any other products from either company.
Naturally, the final decision and responsibility is yours, so I suggest you do some additional research based on those product names.
As I haven't experienced your XPort problem I cannot judge whether these programmes will cure it.
HTH
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Does that mean you have 32 forward gear ratios and 8 reverse? The only application for that I can think of would be for ploughing.
Are you sure about your maths?
Assuming it is a splitter, the standard LR high 4 speeds rise to 8, then you switch into the standard LR low range, which gives another 8, totaling 16.
Oh, I see, then you add in the overdrive in every gear to get 32. Does the OD work in reverse?
Even if not (so only 4 reverse gears), I still think you win the biscuit :-)
Hmmm, I can't think what has been done or why, but the end result does seem excessive.
I had wondered if this assembly had a bottom PTO and overdrive, which would give the additional 2 gear knobs.
I'll also wait for the pictures, top down or bottom up, either might help.
Cheers.
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Do you have a RAVE Workshop Manual?
It's 'free', except for your time, as a download from Green Oval. You have to know, or find someone local who knows, how to convert an image to an operational CD. Then you copy all the contents, maintaining the directory structure, onto your hard drive. Create a Desktop shortcut pointing to Rave.exe in the root directory of the CD copy.
In the RAVE Workshop manual you will see alternate methods of undoing the four bolts.
Steve_d is writing about a 99MY-on gearbox, you have a pre-99MY gearbox. The difference you have found is just one of many that were introduced for the 99MY.
HTH
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You didn't give your location, so I didn't know parts supply could be an issue.
I had the impression that your current (leaky) dipstick gave you the correct level, even if it was based on reading the half full marking. You already have in place a plan B to create a non-leaking dipstick installation, using parts to hand.
Thus any need for additional parts didn't cross my mind.
Re overfilling destroying the turbo, I think that by the time the message got to you it's been distorted almost beyond recognition.
I think it's impossible for a higher than standard oil level to destroy the turbo when the engine is running (or stationary).
For starters most turbos are mounted well above the level of the oil.
What people might be referring to is the ability for some diesel engines, under fault conditions, to run on their own oil. As this fuel supply is unregulated the theory is that the engine over speeds and breaks, or runs out of lubricating oil and the bearings are destroyed.
This failure mode is more to do with the way crankcase gases are handled, which nowadays means they are fed onto the inlet tract somewhere before the turbo. I haven't made a close study of this, but I suspect two other design factors play their part.
1/ Where is the ventilation system is connected to the 'crankcase'.
2/ Whether there is some sort of flow control valve in the crankcase ventilation path. I suspect any sort of flow valve will restrict the flow sufficiently to stop the runaway condition starting.
As I understand it, failure occurs when crankcase compression is high.
(Worn piston / bores giving high levels of piston blow-by).
AND
Crankcase oil vapour is forced through the ventilation system.
(A low level connection into the block, say into a cam follower chest, or into the block below the level of the water jacket, could make this vapour flow more likely. If the connection is into the valve rocker cover at the top of the engine, this could make the flow of excessive vapour less likely).
Strictly, this failure can happen on both a turbo charged and a naturally aspirated engine. However, the generally higher compression pressures achieved with a turbocharged engine could be considered to generate higher levels of blow-by, thus more readily achieving the critical crankcase compression that seems to be the essential feature of this failure mode.
As I say, I haven't studied this phenomenon, so have built the explanation on my basic understanding of a four stroke diesel, combined with a general appreciation based on comments made by others in different forums.
I wouldn't bother writing it if I didn't think it reasonably correct.
HTH
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Why do you think overfilling will damage the turbo?
The way I would go about this is to insert the correct dipstick, while the sump is off.
Take measurements to relate the FULL mark on the correct dipstick to the sump / block flange.
If the FULL mark is below the sump / block flange, transfer the measurement to the inside of the sump.
Fill the sump to the mark, measuring the amount. This amount does NOT allow for oil held in the engine generally, and the filter specifically, so be prepared to make due allowances depending on whether you are changing the oil, or the oil and the filter.
I would also take the opportunity to establish the amount of oil required to move from Empty to Halfway, and from Halfway to Full. These should be equal, but with the modified sump may not be.
If you use your idea of keeping the measurement dipstick outside the engine, make sure you can clean it before and after use, even if away from your home/base, otherwise you risk introducing dirt while measuring the level.
Personally I'd look to changing the markings on the dipstick, otherwise you are just creating a potential accident.
In this context, test the hardness of the metal before committing yourself. I think dipsticks can be harder than normal steel, so they can withstand the vibration inherent in a long length of small section material.
HTH
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I fitted MGB seats to my S3 many moons ago. etc
A very useful post, thanks. Not so much for the fact MGB seats were used, but for explaining the principles behind the adaptations used.
Just to emphasise one point or principle, look at the mounting the donor seats came from. If it was flat, as the MGB the floor is flat, then adapters will be required to make the top of the Series seatbox flat.
I think your post comes closest to answering the original question.
Cheers.
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In my job I have occasional correspondence with University students in Bath. .... One would think that at that level they could use Words spelling and grammar check.
I'm more definite. My judgment is that they can use those tools. They just don't care to.
Whether they can't or won't, the result should be the same. Any quality assessment of the writer should degraded, their views given less importance, especially if they would personally benefit from their views being given a normal, or higher, importance.
Part of 'writing for your readers' is to ensure they can concentrate on the important views the writer is presenting. Not make life difficult by creating distractions, which the reader then has to work round.
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I used to get irritated by ads displaying those characteristics; now I consider them an excellent Guide to Potential Buyers.
They make it very clear it isn't worth developing a relationship with the seller.
So I move on; gratefully.
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So what about the serial 600917? Weren't all Suffix D boxes 600XXX?
Don't know. You will have to ask in the S2C Forum yourself - if no-one else here knows.
The main S2C Forum is open to non-members.
You can add pictures to your posts there.
Just to state the bleedin' obvious; don't totally forget that if the bell housing is a separate item to the box, it's possible that the bell housing you have wasn't originally associated with the gearbox.
HTH
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I'm looking to increase my compressed air storage capacity to complement the smallish 24l tank on the compressor. It occured to me that I could use an old Propane or Butane cylinder (once emptied and filled with water to expel any gas). Does anyone know the thread used on these where the valve screws into the cylinder - is it something nice like 3/4" BSP, or am I going to have to weld on a sensible fitting?
Thanks Chris
Check the bore of the fitting, where the regulator screws on the outside. When I did what you are suggesting (increasing the receiver capacity) I found the bore was a nice size to tap straight away with a more conventionally sized BSP tap (IE, I had one!).
The whole idea (both hose fitting in the existing valve, and increasing receiver capacity) really worked well, and has been for several years. The compressor hasn't worn out, but it was a 75 or 100 litre tank to start with (I think), so not exactly comparable.
HTH
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No, no serial anywhere on any face. Odd.
So really this box is useless to me if its that old.
The advice I had from the Series 2 Club Forum is that ALL Factory Reconditioned boxes have the original number ground out by the factory, as they were rebuilt to whatever was the current (latest) specification.
I can't comment on the age of the reconditioning (IE when it was done), I'm just explaining the 'lost' serial number.
HTH
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Thanks for the informative reply.
Can I ask, was you setup similar to the one Allisport sell?
Don't know, I'm not familiar with their setup (and I'm not bothered about knowing either).
At the flick of a switch gain ~ 25% HP increase (35-40hp).Do you think I'm being a hopelessly optimistic????
I'm sure what you propose will work.
I make no comment, for or against, about your expected power increase. I have no experience, in any form, of the 200TDi.
BTW - what engine did you have yours on and what sort of HP boost did it give.BMW 2.5, and I don't know about the power increase. The installation was never fully developed regards LPG fuel control.
Measuring engine power on a rolling road is a can of worms all of it's own. Ideally you need a 4WD road, with an operator that will let you adjust the fuelling installation as required. All the time you are paying his (expensive) hourly rate.
As installed, I could switch the LPG on and off via a solenoid in the liquid supply to the vaporiser. On full throttle uphill runs, switching on gave smoke and more speed. Switching off stopped the smoke, and the vehicle slowed down.
HTH
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Yes, I just need some modest strips of it.
Al.
Ahh, always a snag.
As a supplier (not a user who could supply offcuts) I found Kiowa to be both helpful over the phone, and the best price. I was a mail order customer.
Best price covered several aspects:
They had the tape cut to the width I wanted, so I wasn't buying waste.
The price per standard roll was cheaper than anywhere else I found.
As I wasn't in a desperate hurry, they offered to hold my order for a day or two, so it went in their regular order to their supplier, thus I avoided a 'small shipment' charge.
www.kiowa.co.uk
HTH
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Have to say the more I read about it the more I want it. Just need to figure out where to put the propane tank in the Disco though, don't really want it in the back if I can avoid it, wonder if theres enough room underneath to keep them out of harms way off road??
I see you are recognising that there are some negatives. Here's a summary of some aspects, based on my experience of running a system a few years ago, before Allisport were offering a service:
How large should the tank be, because while a large tank means it needs filling less often, a large tank is also more expensive, and is heavy even when empty, so can your springs handle it?
Because of the internal pressure, tanks can't be any old shape, fitting into whatever space is left, like a blow moulded plastic tank can. You can get complex shaped tanks, often made up of two or more standard tanks having big holes cut in them, then welded together (all professionally done and certified), but of course the price is high (even higher).
Then decide where to fit it. A plus is that IF, repeat IF, the mounting system is strong enough, the tanks themselves will take a strong hit without damage, so sill tanks will work, if there is space, and will stand close contact with the ground.
Then there is the snag of filling them; even if you go to a station (like some BP) where they have both Autogas and Diesel pumps, it's two separate operations. You pay for this facility in the price per litre. You had better not be in a hurry, and never think that the extra time spent filling will be made up by travelling faster. Life doesn't work like that.
If you don't go to a dual fuel station you have to go miles to find an Autogas station, so the fuel costs more anyway.
Then there's fuelling, how much? When? Really, however you engineer it, you are looking at the need to have two complimentary fuel maps (to use current phrasing). 'Engineer it' means crude on or off, or progressive, related to throttle position and boost pressure, plus EGT and coolant temperature controls if you wish.
You needn't worry about not recognising having the LPG fuelling too high, the resultant pinking is loud enough to defeat any sound proofing, or Direct Injection diesel knock.
Also, if you are putting in too much LPG to burn, but not enough to pink, the exhaust gives off a very distinctive sickly sweet smell. Very obvious in an underground car park. I notice the smell occasionally just walking in city streets and am never sure if it's a Diesel + LPG installation, or if Petrol engines running on LPG also give off the same smell due to incomplete combustion (due to overfuelling). I suspect they do.
If someone else already sells a system for your engine, then great, it's just money.
If you want to develop a bespoke system you had better be 'hands on' yourself, or have deep pockets, with hands that will reach the bottom so you can pay someone else.
Then there's maintenance. When you think the engine isn't performing as well as it used to, who's going to say whether it's diesel fuelling or LPG fuelling, or exactly which sensor is playing up? You've seen all the posts on here with people flustering over 'what is wrong', and the multitude of assessments that come back. At least there is a large body of people with experience of diesel engines, but diesel plus LPG? Take a good look in the mirror, the expert on your installation is looking back at you.
I know some people come to forums about every little problem, but I think you will need to develop the ability, if you haven't got it already, of making assessments (correct assessments) of what is happening, and creating solutions based on a good understanding of the principles involved.
If you are interested, it's a good hobby to follow, giving good training in systems assessment, etc. This is a transferable skill, over and above any specific Diesel + LPG knowledge you obtain.
It can depend on the base unit, but if it's any good as a diesel engine, there is next to zero chance of reducing running costs due to improved efficiency in burning the diesel. The total costs of the fuels rises more than the Miles Per Litre, or however you want to express it.
The additional performance comes as much, or more, from burning additional fuel rather than a more efficient diesel burn. Very difficult to find scientific evidence, one way or the other, about 'more fuel V increased efficiency' benefits. Measuring this needs some expensive kit, normally found in research labs.
Against this, get an engine with really poor combustion, that often gives black smoke, and high diesel consumption (I was told a version of the Toyota King Cab falls into this catagory). There the improved burn really shows itself, making the LPG fumigation system very rewarding. Or so I was told.
As always, plenty of web opinions (like this post is), some based on experience, some on imagination.
If anyone gets heavy, ask how they measure the LPG flow (Vapour or Liquid) in their car. Tank full to tank empty was the only answer I was ever given, which is a useless way of assessing fuel usage in a dual fuel system. I did try measuring, and recording, LPG Vapour flow, but the results were inconclusive.
My engine survived, I still use it today, but while the LPG system is still fitted, I don't bother using it. I relied on someone else to provide the fuelling control. While that was under development I decided to let them lead, (too many cooks spoil the broth). By the time it became apparent that his ideas weren't really working, I had seen enough of the negatives of daily use, and I no longer have the commitment to develop my own LPG fuel control system.
Have fun!!
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Chimney outside will give you away!! Forgotten about neighbours ?
Cough - http://tinyurl.com/absfl7
Police raided a property after heat-seeking cameras identified a suspected cannabis factory – only to discover nothing more sinister than a wood-burning stove.
etc etc
The door key they used must have weighed about 14lb, with a long 'shaft'.
Of course, once inside they 'might' look for anything else that could justify their attention.
HTH
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It's a 'big penny' solution, but as it's a 'restoration' you are doing you get the benefit of a lot of new parts.
Go to LRSeries and ask them for a pair of their NOS (ex-MOD) axles, re-configured by LR Series to have Range Rover differentials and whatever brakes you want on them.
As I say, the cost seems expensive when seen as one lump, but you get all new brakes with no faffing about.
Some of your existing stuff may be saleable, but I have no idea how much you get for it.
You say "I'm quite ignorant about drivetrain/transmission stuff!". Are you certain you know what you are getting with the Perkins 4.203 in a Series 3?
I'm not voting for or against you going this route, it's your choice; I'm just querying a possible conflict in your statements.
A friend is going the same Perkins / RR diff route in his Series 2, but he's run the Perkins before so at least the engine characteristics are a known quantity. He is doing the LRSeries bit, which is how I know of the option, which I HOPE is transferable to a Series 3 configuration.
Good Luck
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OTOH, definitely call them, even if you only accept cash back.
If they don't have genuine in stock, try LRSeries or Beamends (who have now started doing Mail Order again).
Good Luck
Green Lane in need of TLC
in Getting out and about
Posted
I'm with Dave W on this.
You are talking about working on a public highway. In this context I'm not sure how "I will be able to get permission to do it as I know the landowner" fits in. A willingness to help is to be applauded, but in order to be fully effective the willingness has to encompass working with Authorities, who may have slightly different priorities and views.
Have you heard of PDVUG and GLASS? Both have an effective relationship with the local authorities in Derbyshire. Effective in that they get consulted, asked to meetings being held with local Councils representing concerned residents, and are able to speak unofficially on first name terms with local specialists, such as Peak Park Rangers and the Police Officer running Operation Blackbrook.
Effective does not mean that PDVUG and the local GLASS have carte blanche to undertake road repairs on a whim.
OTOH. A small group, working with little publicity, on an occasional basis (creating no 'pattern of attendance'), and picking times with care (say avoiding any Sunday, and any Bank Holiday weekend), might get away with 30 minutes infilling. You will appreciate that "I have a tractor, trailer, and other equipment needed" doesn't tie in with this approach. Don't expect any protection if caught, accept the bollocking without complaint, don't try to claim, via membership of an organisation, authorisation or protection for your action which doesn't exist.
Probably the best that you can hope for (if caught) is the summary 'heart's in the right place, just misguided in applying his enthusiasm'.
Don't expect thanks, and don't crow about your achievements.
All that is personal opinion, I have no authority or influence in this area. So if we have different views it's of no importance, although you won't expect me to be sympathetic to any later whinging :-)
Without intending to squash your good intentions, I'd suggest these things shouldn't be discussed on ANY open forum, that includes LR4x4 and GLASS. GLEAM is effective because they do good (silent) intelligence work, and don't go in for public discussion. They will seek to represent your good intentions as illegal actions, with no mitigation.
Instead, join GLASS, speak to the local rep so you understand the broader picture. There is an element of politics - it's unavoidable.
Cheers.