[Range Rover P38 for offroading, any good?]

Does Uncle have any experience with 38A's, because there seem to be two questions here:

Which is preferred, and is it OK for laning. I'm assuming Laning means just that, Challenge events or 'Pay and Break' sites are something else again.

It is SteveG who had a 'prepped' 38A, but I don't think there is a lot of stuff available off the shelf, although I haven't heard of the specific kit you mention. You willl need to investigate tyres, and what style Uncle wants. The easy answer is that 16" wheels have more choice, but 18" wheels are more common, although the traditional evaluation is that the shallower sidewalls give a harder tarmac ride.

Consider renewing the suspension air bags, Arnott Gen 3 will enable an addtional inch or two to be engineered into the high setting. Rover Renovations i the address for any EAS bits.

If Uncle is laning we can assume it's low box work, and the diesel will be fine, although on the road it will be sluggish.

Whether you have a 'good' diesel conversion (Jeremy Fearn) or a sequential LPG (that doesn't backfire) the cost will be about £2k. LPG is probably cheaper than Diesel in terms of fuel cost per mile, but that conclusion needs double checking against current LPG prices. LPG tanks have to take up luggage space (or the spare wheel space, when the wheel takes up luggage space). You can't put decent LPG tanks underneath.

Don't assume all 38A's have Traction Control, because they don't.

Post '99 I think all do have 4 wheel ETC, but a '95 Diesel or 4.0 won't have any at all, while the 4.6 HSE had 2 wheel ETC at the rear.

The extra length isn't too much of a problem, because the car is raised on the Air Suspension (EAS).

The Width mainly means the bodywork gets more scratches than a Series, say, and the high gloss paint shows them strongly. Stone walls and stone gate pillars make the driver breath in a bit, but those may not be prevalent in Uncle's neck of the woods.

The weight is the biggest Green Lane problem. Think 2.5 tonnes with driver and kit. Fine on a firm surface, but always a negative on mud. What are the lanes like where Uncle goes off tarmac?

The electronics are no problem unless Uncle is determined to do the wilder Welsh rivers in Winter. Again, putting the suspension on High makes all the others look a bit sick.

That'll do for now, except if Uncle hasn't 38A experience I suggest that's the first hurdle to get over. Not everyone likes them.

[P38 diesel]

" .. know if the 2.5 straight six diesel engine of a '99 rangie was ever used in any of the BMW car range?"

Well, Yes and No.

The 2.5 in the 38A was basically the BMW engine used in the saloons, I think the car models were 325 or 525.

There were some changes made as it moved into the 38A, mainly to improve the low speed torque, but also (I think) the sump and possibly the oil pump pick up pipe, so that the sump would miss the front axle, and provide enough capacity to pick up oil even when the engine was tilted at Land Rover angles.

Whether there was any electronic changes, that will stop the BMW car High Pressure fuel injection pump working to the 38A engine ECU, I don't know. Might be best to allow for moving the 38A pump from the old to the 'new' engine, if you go the car route.

Does the 38A have an Auto or Manual gearbox? At '99 probably auto.

I'm pretty certain that a '99 38A has EGR as well, and I assume a BMW saloon did, but as well to keep your eyes open.

I'd guess a complete car is cheaper, with what you can sell on, than a bare engine, and should mean you can run the engine before paying for it.

Good luck, and as a matter of interest, what caused the 38A engine to stop working?

[Range Rover P38 for offroading, any good?]

See near the top of the page, where it says 'My Assistant'?

Click that, then click 'Moderating Team'.

Below the Administrators you will see all the Moderators, click the down arrow against each one until you see the one(s) that Moderate the Classified Forum.

There is a PM button on the same line, use that to PM the Moderator and ask him to move your post.

Cheers.

[Brake Pipe flaring tool kit]

I've just looked up the instructions for my Motaproducts 'Easyflare' hand held flaring tool. This was sold as a 'hobby' tool, decades ago.

It doesn't show the funnel shaped flare at all (Sealey 4C).

It describes the 'olive' shaped flare (Sealey 4D double flare) as a single flare (and so agrees with rtbarton).

To make a Double flare it then requires you to use a second punch to put a SMALL funnel flare in the end of the 'olive'.

I THINK this is where the 'double flare' term comes from, being a combination of the olive and the funnel.

I'm also inclined to think that this small funnel is not an actual sealing face, but more to take the sharp edge off the olive flare, so that fluid flows more easily. This is reinforced, in my view, by the fact that the second flare punch has a pin in the centre to ensure the hole on the pipe is held clear.

I thought the device was fool proof, in that the pipe was inserted up to a stop, then clamped in position, then the operator just tightened the die punches down until they stopped. Having to re-learn how to use it the other week I realised I was wrong, in that driving the die punches too hard destroyed the end of the pipe.

Using just the second die (tightening until it stopped) one could make 'funnel flares' with a washer around the rim, such that the nut wouldn't pass over it.

If attempting a double flare, over-tightening the second punch (with the pin), one could fold the olive back in on itself, so ending up with a double skinned funnel flare. (This appears to be what rtbarton is calling a double flare).

It has struck me that this latter design might be useful, but I haven't put any of it to the test.

Looking further for reference, I found an Autobook for the BMC Mini which described the differences between Metric and Unified fittings / pipe ends. The pipe ends differed, but both appeared to be variations on the 'olive' flare. The Unified being a full olive, the Metric resembling an olive compressed after tightening into a housing with a shallow V.

It was not made clear whether these had the 'second flare / small funnel' refinement, but now I've figured out the benefit (I think) I see no reason NOT to use the second punch, just nipped, to round off the sharp edge.

We could do with a definitive site with all the pipe end options pictured, Imperial, Metric, Single, Double, whether a Double is a 'twin walled funnel flare', formed by collapsing an olive (single) flare, OR is it an olive with a small funnel superimposed (as defined above), etc.

I found this to show alternative fittings, but not pipe ends.

http://www.reedx.net/landrover/maint/brakefittings/index.htm

Anyone found any other online resources with good reliable information, rather than conjecture?

Edited to add this site, with pictures of yet another 'old flarer', and some pretty clear pictures of pipe ends, defining a single flare as an olive, and a double flare as an olive collapsed into a funnel, but he doesn't use those terms, naturally.

http://www.integerspin.co.uk/brakeflare.htm

Cheers.

I've read the instruction sheet for the Sealey tool. Instructions

I think they've got single & double flares mixed up. I've always made the flare in 4d first and know this as a single flare, to form the double flare (shown in 4c) the single flare is opend up with the pointed die.

The other tools I've seen gauge how far the pipe must protrude for you, in this one you have to guestimate.

[Dakar Rally cancelled]

Seems as though other people are all to aware of the benefits, financial and other, that a 'Dakar' event brings.

http://www.news24.com/News24/Sport/More_Sp...248246,00.html#

Boys will still be able to play with their toys, the manufacturers will get their Marketing opportunities, and the Arab leaders will keep their own people in the dustbowl of poverty, which is what the Leaders want.

Everybody succeeds, except the poor, and how many guns do they have?

Cheers

[Shot Blasters / Grit Blasters]

protected by standard supermarket cling film, which is a disposable item, as it lasts perhaps an hour before the dust fogging gets too bad.

Florists cellophane is much better, it's clearer and doesn't stick to itself when you're trying to put it in place. I reckon it lasts a bit longer too.

I bought a roll off ebay, can't remember the seller, but there's quite a few on there.

I suppose the fact that I never thought of that reveals how often I buy someone flowers!!!

I have actually bought some of the 'proper stuff' from Anglo Scott Abrasives, but haven't made a mounting for the roll so it can be scrolled across the viewing window / glass pane, so can't report on how good or bad it is.

ASA have no web site, but a call to 01942 270729 gets you an e-mail catalogue by return.

[Uprated air filter 300tdi]

I use and recommend ITG filters. They never get reoiled, so avoid the 'too much / not enough' re-oiling dilemma, and as I discovered to my cost, changing a 'very dirty' 3 year old one for a new clean one made no difference whatsoever, so I conclude they flow well even when dirty.

This is on a Diesel 38A, 2.5 6 cylinder, with Jeremy Fearn intercooler, JF fuelling mods, and my wastegate control modifications.

The air box is standard, the appropriate ITG filter drops straight in.

Cheers.

[Shot Blasters / Grit Blasters]

My blast cabinet is made of 12mm MDF (a more dense material than ply) painted with cheap gloss white paint. When the colour gets too dingy it gets another coat of white gloss. The paint is relatively soft and absorbs the impact of the media. I hold the gun in my right hand so I do have a piece of scrap steel plate on the back wall, towards the bottom LH corner, as this is the area that gets the most overspray.

With this slight additional protection, overall the paint is not damaged enough to expose the MDF surface, except where I've 'tested' the flow of grit from the gun!

Initially I used a suction gun, but about 12 months ago changed to a pressure pot, with a spark plug ceramic nozzle. Air delivery is controlled by a foot pedal. I use aluminium oxide as a reusable abrasive. The compressor is a two cylinder device with about 14 CFM free Air Delivery, working on single phase 240v. More air flow, or a larger air storage tank would be better, but with pressure held down to 70 psi at the pot the results are acceptable.

The pressure pot system produces much faster results, but does cost more to set up than a suction gun set-up.

I use a sheet of flat laminated glass as a viewing screen, protected by the type of thin plastic used for making slides on overhead projectors. This lasts for some time, but in turn is protected by standard supermarket cling film, which is a disposable item, as it lasts perhaps an hour before the dust fogging gets too bad. Blasted rust creates a lot of dust.

As regards ventilating the dust out, I suck the air out from each rear top corner (single fan, two pipes), and have found that ensuring a large inlet port made a big difference to the airflow. It's (large) airflow that is important. Don't rely on the air coming in with the blast media. I blow the fan air / dust output through the garage wall at a low level onto waste grass, fortunately well away from any neighbours washing lines.

If I rebuild the cabinet I'll put the air inlet above the viewing glass, so the clean air washes down over the glass, which should reduce the amount of dust sicking to the cling film.

HTH.

[TD5 Squeal]

The 'warped manifold' comment from PaulW has triggered a memory, in that I'm pretty sure I've read about cracking TD5 manifolds before, and something about removing (grinding out) some webs to inhibit this. There might be a Tech Bulletin about it.

My source might have been the Blackbox Solutions Forum, which is only open to users, so as an alternative it might be worth speaking to the guy at www.td5alive.com although I haven't found a reference on his site.

Purely out of curiosity, it will be interesting to know who supplied your intercooler and fuelling modifications.

HTH

PS Edit.

A brief search in the Tech Bulletins and the Blackbox site failed to find anything relevant, so perhaps my 'recall' is erroneous.

[In 90 PC GPS 'Woes' - Minor but REALLY annoying...]

H from H.

Did you sort this?

More Specifically:

Did you get GPSGate working on your Tablet, and did GPSGate allow both programmes to work even after restarting the Tablet or programmes?

If the answer to Sorted? is Yes, but GPSGate answers are No, how was it sorted?

Thanks.

[p38 gearbox drain/refill]

It is not unknown for autogearboxes not to have a drain plug. I believe that after a certain model year this situation exists with the Autobox on a 38A.

I have a 38A, but not an Autobox.

Closer study of the RAVE CD from the Green Oval site may confirm or dispute my comments, and if confirming, may give a clue as to what you are supposed to do to maintain the box.

I seem to recall that if the dipstick shows the oil to be burnt, then it's drop the sump to change the filter and the fluid.

Conversely, if the fluid isn't burnt, just top up.

HTH

[Heated windscreens]

Pick Uroglass from here http://www.series2club.co.uk/discounts.htm

[What battery charger?]

Matt, just a quicky to say I haven't ignored your post, but as I said before, I can't speak for Charles Stirling (never met the man etc).

I can guess, from what is on his web site, what he would say about attending big shows, and putting the cost of those shows onto the products he is selling, when he can get the business he wants through word of mouth recommendations.

I agree that if build work is sub-contracted anywhere, then quality control and checking is essential.

I've only spoken with Charles Stirling once, and can see why a negative perception has built up, but I can't judge the warranty situation, as I've only bought one product. It's done both what it said on the tin, and without problem for several years.

I appreciate you sharing your experience, as I'm sure others on the forum do.

Don't let me put you off!!

Cheers.

Hi David,

I don't think there is anything wrong with "made in china" providing you manage your quality control correctly. The problems began to appear when products are designed in china.... One of the market leaders in charging technology has most of their products manufactured in India, because they pay close attention to quality control and all products are designed by their engineers, not the factory's, there is no problem.

Regarding Stirlings products directly, i have heard both good and bad about the range, but on the whole the overall perception is negative, firstly because of the reliability issues with most of the products, but secondly for the way customers are treated when they do try and return them for replacement/credit!

You'd struggle to find mr Stirling at an exhibition like the Southampton or London boat show, why would that be? surely you'd want the chance to exhibit your excellent products? These two shows are certainly very successful for every other company in the marine industry?

Obviously only my honest opinion, from working in that industry directly for 5 years +

Thanks,

Matt

[P38 gearbox compatibility]

Jeremy only runs diesel engines, and as far as I am aware, only BMW diesel engines. Thus the bespoke ECUs are for the current diesel engines. He has been active in running a comp motor for years, since before '99, and in those he runs 3.0 engines. He pioneered a twin turbo installation, I believe that was on a 2.5, but it was so long ago I've forgotten. Obviously it's the comp motors, for himself and his other customers, that get the cutting edge stuff, in exchange for money.

I had got the impression you were looking at diesels, which was why I responded.

However you keep mentioning petrol, and with those I can't help you with, and I don't think Jeremy can either, but I'm not writing for him.

As each situation is different, his web site won't mention a lot about competition motors, you need to establish that conversation with him yourself.

"if jeremy has developed a standalone ECU for the M57 then its a very interesting proposition indeed."

I don't know how much is 'Jeremy developed', and how much is Jeremy having a 'recognised motorsport user' status with BMW Motorsport. I suspect you need some sort of recognised status, based on past achievement, and probably face to face contact, before BMW allow you the goods. Bear in mind that with cutting edge stuff, having access to the man in Germany who wrote the programme is very valuable support. You cannot just buy that.

Bottom line is, I'm sure Jeremy could supply a stand alone ECU for the M57. Probably no security electronics, but you aren't in that sort of market. Or if you are we are at cross purposes.

Again, you need to speak to him, preferably when you have a diesel path sorted out, like can you get a 3.0 litre diesel engine, is it within your budget, how much more than standard do you want, how much money have you got to spend, etc etc. I hope that sentance isn't teaching you to suck eggs, that is not how it is intended.

Note I've written BMW, it's just occured to me that my memory may be at fault and it could be Bosch. When someone says 'have a look at this' and only after you have picked up the ECU does he say 'that's easily worth more (in pound notes) than your car is; then you (I) get a little nervous, and forget what the label on the ECU actually says.

FWIW, in this context, this is his web site http://www.jeremyjfearn.co.uk/

Cheers.

[P38 gearbox compatibility]

As you are into standard BMW engine information, I'd take a look at the sump and oil pump pickup arrangements on a 38A, comparing them to a BMW saloon.

ISTR some changes being required by Land Rover to enable it to run at LR standard angles, at which BMWs response was 'why?', but at that time they hadn't bought LR so didn't know any better.

Presumably you have talked closely with Jeremy Fearn? Last time I was there he was getting bespoke ECUs direct from Bosch Motorsport. Working on the 3.0 version, obviously, with lots of other modifications.

I'm not suggesting you need to go that far in a Defender, but he should have the experience to draw on.

There are road going Defenders with the BMW 6, the 2.5 version at least.

HTH

[Delphi Lucas CAV DPS information]

Thanks 88 Special, I've taken a download of the DPA manual, just for interest.

It is a wonderfully clear document - bonus points to whoever scanned that.

I've thought of a couple of trade contacts that I've swapped emails with before, so I've contacted them as well.

Of course, it may be 2008 before I get a response!!

Cheers.

[What battery charger?]

OK Matt, I'm not going to fight his corner for him.

OTOH, I've had a alternator controller on my car for some years now, obviously without problem.

I also think you are in dicey ground by criticising 'Made in China', a hell of a lot of equipment, of all sorts, is now made in China. Without it quality of life would be a lot lower.

As for designed in China, read http://www.sterling-power.com/about.htm and see what you think.

Cheers.

Sorry David;

DO NOT buy anything from stirling!!!!!!!!!!

they have all their products designed and manufactured in china, quailty is less than poor!!!!! I have seen customers boats that have caught fire with these products on...not what i want in my garage!!!!!!!

Thanks,

Matt

[What battery charger?]

It depends what you are looking for. If you want that very fast charge facility then is it worth £30 to you?

All the others are around the 45 to 50 pounds, Google BDV1085 and the price varies between 70 and 80 pounds.

I do find that facility useful, and I get from my motor - generator set, but I can't recommend you make one. You can probably earn that £30 in less time than it takes to build a set, never mind if you have to buy any parts.

I'd say you are looking for the capacity to charge as many different types as possible, and you are looking for a multistage charge process.

Read through the link posted by rtbarton in post 4, and cross refer to the qualities claimed for your BDV1085.

That said, even I regard this article as a bit OTT!!

Read all the FAQs (Questions, split into about 4 subsets) on the www.ctek.com site. Again, see how many ticks the BDV1085 gets.

You might find http://www.sterling-power.com/support-faq-1.htm easy to follow.

HTH

[RR Sport Service Interval Indicator]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'manually'. I'd have thought an electronic box of some sort was required.

Have you looked on http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/ ?

Have you asked Blackbox Solutions (currently on Christmas / New Year Break)?

HTH

Ahhh, I see you have found rrsport, and even pinching info from Rangerovers.net hasn't sorted it.

What Model Year is your RRS?

Blackbox then, or an Independant, already equipped, as suggested on RRsport.

[What battery charger?]

For several years now I've been using a Gunsons Multistage Model 4138.

It was chosen on the basis that it provided both a 'recharge' facility and a maintenance trickle charge facility, switching automatically between the two. The combination was unusual at the time. This was to be useful to keep the Workshop battery maintained, and liven up the battery in the car, when required.

At the time of purchase it was cheaper than the Accumate then widely available, praised for it's maintenance facility.

Time moves on.

The Gunson firm has been sold on, and while the unit is still available, the price now seems to match the others, at just under £50.

The recharge setting is 4 amps, and it does take it's time to fully recharge a severly discharged big battery, having a stated limit of 65Ah, although I use it quite happily on the 38A battery of 107Ah.

Of the pages found while searching

http://www.minimag.co.uk/resources/minimag/chargerstest.pdf has no date on it, so not clear how current it is. Note the price conflict in the Gunson box, I'd assume the higher one was more accurate.

http://www.tayna.co.uk/4138-Gunson-Automat...arger-P967.html is a current ad, but watch the £8 delivery, although they do price matching.

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/prod...stage_4138.html is an Auto Express test, but note it's 2005, and classed as a Conditioner, not a Charger.

http://www.gunsons.co.uk/ is Gunsons Home page

http://www.gunsons.co.uk/product.asp?lot=2...1&deptid=12 is the specific Charger.

Of the others, I still want the Automatic Combined Recharge and Maintenance facility, and if the Halfords one provides that, then the price is right. Otherwise I'd be seduced by the 7A output and the advanced 'future proof' tech spec of the Accumate, except I like the small Ctek, but is at a charger as well as a Conditioner? Even www.ctek.com seem a little vague in their Question and answer spot

OOPS Nearly missed it.

www.halfords.com no longer show the Automatic model, except in a Product Recall notice, which says it will be exchanged, but for what, I wonder?

Sorry to rock the boat!!

[Delphi Lucas CAV DPS information]

I want to understand a little bit more about the DPS pump operation, as fitted to 2.5 TD engines, than Land Rover provide in the Workshop Manuals. I understand that these pumps cannot be repaired 'at home', but even so I'd like to know a little bit more.

I've searched on various LR forums, and not found anything, but Googling has produced titles and part numbers of a couple of booklets.

The same page, about a 2002 Training Course, says these are for Lucas Authorised Dealers only.

I only found this information tonight, so haven't had chance to see if I can charm copies out of any local Lucas Diesel shops.

So, I'm hoping someone can tell me where these have already been uploaded to, or can provide another means of accessing them.

“DPS Fuel Injection Pump – Principles of Operation” by Lucas. P/N XPB105 (EN)

“DPS Fuel Injection Pump” by Lucas. P/N XNB104 (EN)

I rather assume (EN) means English, which will do fine!!

These would be naturals for the Tech Archive, if in a suitable format, or could be offered to Green Oval if a hosting site was required.

Any help out there?

Thanks.

[Landrovers on Radio 4]

Last Item, about 12.48 to 13.00, all about Hobson Industries scrapping, rebuilding, and resupplying LRs to the Army, at 50% the price of new ones.

There was the green angle that by re-using assets they getting double benefit from the cost of initial production, making the aluminium, etc.

Not in the programme was the view that depressing the sales of new vehicles is damaging the value of Land Rover to Ford, or to TATA, as the purchaser.

[air jack/bag]

"exhaust soot goes everywhere when you disconnect.".

The trick I was taught to use is to just very slightly lift the pipe end of the cone, so the only place the cone isn't sealing is the 6 o'clock position. The soot is forced down and forwards, away from you, then the pressure is released and you can fully remove the cone.

Good to hear someone using them successfully.

I think they are like a highlift in some respects; it pays to practice and experiment with them, to find what works best and what doesn't, in a non-stress position, rather than wait for a 'stuck'. I have a 24" square of carpet to go on top, and act as a sharp edge / hot surface protector, that doesn't create a high pressure point.

I will admit though, seeing a couple of tonnes balancing on a jelly is a bit daunting!!

Cheers.

[Heated washer jets TD5]

Are you sitting comfortably? Anasthetic to hand? Good.

The MGOwners Club site was unsuccessful in giving any returns against the Part Number VUB100220 or 'heated washers'.

Googling VUB100220 gave several returns, indicating a price of about £40.00 in 2001, and about £60.00 in 2005.

Searching Rimmer Bros for VUB100220 gives :

Part Number VUB100220

Description JET ASSY-HTD-W/SCREEN

Retail Price £71.31 inc. VAT (£60.69 exc. VAT)

Nice idea, pity about the price.

Ahhh, the advantage of a final proof read.

Using the search term 'heated' on the MGOC produces a result, of sorts.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/232dlk and scroll down.

Heated washer jet assembly

Price: £69.95 Including VAT at 17.5%

This becomes £71.89 once p+p has been added.

I use 50/50 screenwash mix, which solves any pipework freezing problems, and tends not to freeze on the screen, although with a heated screen anyway, that isn't much of a problem. Jets can disappear under a heavy frost, or snow, so heated jets could be worthwhile. They were a standard fitment on some Classic Range Rovers, but never, as far as I know, on the 38A.

Now you have a target price, perhaps someone with an interest in Fords could follow up the original suggestion?

[p38 axle questions]

"the p38 uses trailing arms and a panhard rod at the rear ??"

Yes, and Yes.

Note that the trailing arms are composite (think glass reinforced plastic). They are designed to twist along their length, to give a certain amount of roll stiffness. IE They perform the function of an anti-roll bar as well as axle location.

This may or may not matter with your proposed design.

Cheers.