David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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OT, but I notice the 6,000th member just signed in.
Is than an achievement, or (Yawn) boring??
Crickey.
What is startling is that, at 20 entries per page, there are 138 pages of members with a post count less than 1.
IE Haven't posted either a question or an answer. That's nearly half the membership!!
Better stop there before the Hijack becomes too blatant, especially as I have no way of answering the original question. Microcat not running and I've never taken a Disco 2 apart.
Sorry Shag, we do have some people versed in Disco 2's, or at least the TD5 engine, which I guess always has some method of cooling the fuel.
Congratulations on being 1 in 6,000, and 'popping your cherry' as I believe that saying goes. There are at least 2,741 who have yet to take the plunge!!
Cheers.
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As an outsider, I'll ask the novice question.
Why start with 'unsuitable' axles?
If Salisbury diffs are good, and ENV axles as rare as ...., and Series axles are too narrow for stability, containing Hook joints rather than CV's, why not add leaf spring platforms to Range Rover or Defender axles, gaining CV joints, easily upgradable innards, Salisbury diffs, and greater track?
Is there a steering problem?
Mind you, 12 months or so ago I recall reading a web account of someone making extended travels in a S2bFC, and he seemed to be on constant trouble with failing axles, due to admitted overloading, until he got to Germany (from Southern Africa) when he fitted completely different axles. Could have been Unimog, could have been something else.
Sorry, I didn't keep a link because I lost interest in S2bFC's.
Cheers
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All the switches in the door are part of the latch mechanism.
They tell the BECM the door has been opened, and the BECM switches on the interior light, for example.
There are two other switches which tell the BECM that the key has been turned, and which way.
I forget how many there are in total, but they all get changed when you change the latch.
As you rightly deduced, it's not a radio interferance problem, as it's failing to respond to the mechanical key.
It's a bit interesting, in the Chinese sense, that the remote and the key operated electrical circuits have failed at the same time. I tend to agree with you that the door outstation may have failed, preventing the BECM from unlocking the door.
Note that (If I Recall Correctly), the BECM doesn't unlock the other doors until instructed to do so by the Drivers door latch. Thus if the BECM and the drivers door latch have lost contact I suspect the other doors will 'never' unlock.
I'm always a bit suspicious about 12volt electical circuits failing 'just' due to water (as in heavy rain), but as there will be electronics in the door outstation it could just be wetness that's caused this. Not reported as a very common failing though.
It will soon be as fit as a fiddle, spending all that time at the gym :-)
Cheers
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Nyloc, Cleveloc, Aerotight, are explained at http://www.boltscience.com/pages/glossary.htm
K-nut is not mentioned for some reason, but perhaps it is a slightly alternative version of one of the other types defined in the glossary.
These people equate k-nut with KEPS (mentioned in the Glossary). This equivalence may be a mistake on their behalf.
http://www.stlogistics.com.cn/product_view.asp?id=687 They describe it in detail as a nut with a shakeproof washer http://www.hssales.com/locking_nut.htm#Keps
Merlin Motorsport show the K-nut more clearly as the 'reduced hex with large flange' style referenced earlier by Daan and cosworth. http://preview.tinyurl.com/33tc8u
Cheers
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SWITCH - CLUTCH PEDAL
The clutch pedal switch is located on the clutch master cylinder and is activated when the clutch pedal is operated.
The ECM uses the signal from the clutch pedal switch to provide surge damping during gear change. Surge
damping stops engine speed rising dramatically (engine flaring) during gear change. Surge damping assists
driveability as follows:
• Smoother gear change.
• Greater exhaust gas emission control.
• Improved fuel consumption.
Input / Output
When the clutch pedal is in the rest position, the clutch switch is closed. This allows a feed to flow from the switch (C0667-1) to the ECM (C0658-35) on a black/white wire.
When the clutch pedal is pressed the switch contacts open, cutting the feed to the ECM.
The clutch pedal switch can fail in any one of the following ways:
• Switch open circuit.
• Short circuit to vehicle supply.
• Short circuit to vehicle earth.
In the event of a clutch pedal switch failure surge damping will be inactive.
I suspect disconnecting it has made the engine seem 'super responsive'.
This can be a help, it can also cause traction to be broken when that is not the best idea.
Suck and see how it suits your driving style / conditions?
Cheers
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If it's any consolation, I looked in the rear suspension section first.
But I found active links to the Front Suspension section whenever the description referred to ACE, so I just followed one of those!!
True, I have no practical experience of the system, I was just jealous when it was introduced!
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Workshop manual, Disco 2, Front Suspension, Description & Operation, Description - ACE, Page 60 - 13, or 1012 of 1783.
"The fluid flow varies with the engine speed and the rotational speed of the central shaft. The pressure felt at the actuator, created by the flow from the pump, is controlled by the pressure control valve in the valve block.
The pump has a displacement of 8.5 cm 3 /rev and an operational pressure of 135 bar (1958 lbf.in 2 ). The pump output flow ranges from 7.0 l/min (1.85 US Gallons/min) at 775 rev/min to 9.25 l/min (2.44 US Gallons/min) at 7625 rev/min."
Cheers
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I have a lot of sympathy with the general outlook you express, but you do have to be careful with the caravan that you are comparing like with like. I believe that a standard UK model might be more heavily featured than a standard German model.
Just suggesting it might need a little more research, that's all.
Which ferry do you get to go Inverness to Germany ? :-))
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I don't know the answer to your exact question, in either case, but just to help someone who might:
Is this a Classic or a 38A Range Rover?
In general, no heat from a matrix means air in the system. Depending on what has happened recently, it could just need bleeding (well), or it could indicate air being pushed in via a blown head gasket.
Good Luck.
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Just 'as a matter of interest'.
Yesterday someone was requesting advice on accepting a bumper + winch deal offered because the winch initially supplied had failed 3 times, and the bumper once.
The price mentioned was £1000, which was considered 'fair' by the respondees, with the proviso that it wasn't clear how much had been spent already.
Based on the comments in that thread, suspect the EP90 mentioned here is cheaper that the Warn included in the other deal.
However, if we bear in mind that this is a first fit, so there will be additional costs, such as rope, and possibly electrical bits, perhaps shackles, tree strops, pulleys and / or anchors (self recovery), are we still talking an all up price around £1000?
I have in mind the comment in Post 1
" ... i don't want to spend alot on a winch as i hardly need it at the moment but the feeling of security of having one would be nice".
You've very clearly and usefully addressed the 'how powerful' question, but I just wondered how much needs to be spent to achieve that feeling of security :-))
Cheers.
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Thankyou Si,
I'd more or less come to the conclusion that if I hadn't easily found any GPS Receivers with WiFi there either weren't any, or they were horribly expensive!
From another forum I got techie answers to explain why 'GPS Receivers with WiFi' didn't exist. They convinced me, so I'm not taking that any further.
A work colleague has a card that looks the same as the Zoom, but his is badged Newlink. I couldn't find a Newlink version, so have just ordered a Zoom from Expansys, for about twice what you paid!! (So I'm rather glad your stockist isn't showing any stock!!).
For the GPS Receiver, I'm going to wait and see how it performs with the one in the car at the moment. It's branded 'Clip-on', and has a Sirf chip, but is only 12 channel, so probably not Sirf III.
Cheers.
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I wasn't sure this post was 'On Topic' for this thread, as most recent posts have been concentrating on PC selection.
However, the title starts 'GPS Options - ....' so I think it's OK.
'Any' in-car PC needs a GPS input. The two options seem to be either a GPS mouse, with USB tail, or a stand alone GPS receiver, with Bluetooth connectivity.
Most laptops or tablets don't have Bluetooth connectivity built in, so they need an 'extra'. These usually protrude from the case, and thus become liable to physical damage. So the need for either a GPS mouse tail, or a Bluetooth dongle, rather damages the concept of a 'tough' PC.
On the other hand, a lot of laptops have WiFi capability built in, which leads to the question ....
Are there GPS receivers with WiFi connectivity?
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If you are talking about something similar to that which Land Rover used on a Series 2, say, then you need letters / numbers at least 3/8" (10mm) high.
The thought occurs, probably unfailrly, that if you are doing this you should have an old chassis with number that you are replacing.
If you look at the photographs here you can compare the size of the number on the chassis with the size of the hole in the hanger and cross-referencing these with the same hole on your chassis should give you an idea.
What year / style of Land Rover are you replicating? The Early 90 of your name?, Disco, Series, Defender? etc.
The answer to your question may vary depending on the style of Land Rover you are working on.
HTH
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I'm not going against the theory of 'possibly stolen & re-numbered' at sometime in it's pastt, but the renumbering is very badly done if it was intended to hide something.
What I have in mind is the way the Factory dealt with rebuilt gearboxes in Series vehicles. Here they ground the number off it's original location, then added a new one elsewhere. However, perhaps because the factory had nothing to hide, the original numbers can be readable. Mine were, which is why I came to learn about this Factory rebuild & renumber business.
British Leyland had their Gold Seal and Silver Seal engines. Did LR have a similar system? As the 12J with turbocharger became a weakness they might well have had a goodly number of engines available for rebuild.
Alternatively, weren't LR engines used in London Taxis and Leyland (Sherpa?) vans? Did they have a different numbering scheme?
I'm afraid I have no definivative answers, only observations and questions.
Nevertheless, HTH.
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I didn't make it absolutely explicit in my first post, partly because I thought it bleedin obvious, and partly because your first post finished " ... more specifically the 2.5td motor? ", but my comments were solely aimed at the use of the turbocharged engine.
Your last, almost incoherent, post suggests you are thinking of using the intercooler on the naturally aspirated engine. That would be a bigger waste of time than I've spent posting in this thread.
You waste your time how you like, I won't be joining you again.
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If I had a spare intercooler then I would plumb it into the intake of ANY turbocharged diesel, but that is because I'm firmly convinced of the benefits of a cooler intake charge.
In order to show yourself it is making a difference, and how much, you need to monitor temperatures.
Having done the EGT bit myself I wouldn't advise anyone else to jump straight into there, and certainly not on a project at this level.
Cooling the intake charge will lower the EGT, but there is also the uncetainty factor of the burning fuel to disguise the results. Then there is the fact that you need a special (more expensive) thermocouple probe, and the decision plus uncertaintites of where to place it, as the placing can make a big difference to the readings.
If you just monitor the air temperature in the inlet manifold you will see directly the results the intercooler has made. You can do this monitoring with a simple cheap multimeter, as sold by Maplins and others, that come with a K type thermocouple within the box.
Here you strap, tape, clamp, whatever, the meter in the cab, and run the TC lead through the bulkhead. Now you are only going to get a 3 foot lead as standard, and these can't be joined, so it might not be long enough. A bog standard bead type TC with any lead length you like can be specified from Kalestead. This is where you would be buying your stainless steel shielded exhaust TC from. You might need the plug from them as well.
Kalestead may sell a gland fitting that you can screw into the manifold to hold the lead, but I'd start with a 3mm hole, or whatever is just big enough to take the bead, drilled into the inlet manifold, or the hose leading to the manifold. Push the bead into the air space inside the manifold / hose and seal the hole with something that sets.
You only have 9psi standard, and the space left in the hole is very small, so there isn't much area to seal.
Obviously you do some repeatable tests up the local hill without the IC coupled, then again with.
Hey presto, everyone else will be talking about it, but you will have facts.
After that you can think about increasing boost, just enough to bring the inlet air temperature back up.
As the fuelling is boost compensated anyway you probably won't have to touch the fuelling settings at all. For the slight changes you are making (I'd speculate going from 9 to 12 psi) I think the standard system will cope fine.
Nice project, let us know how you get on (or be prepared to post me the IC's so I can try it!!).
Cheers.
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The side note about this extremely useful procedure, of clamping the flex hose to isolate the problem front or rear (or left / right front, or master cylinder / servo) is that if you ever get tempted to fit stainless steel flex hoses you can't clamp them. At least, not and have them work properly again after you have released the clamp!!
Just a thought for the future.
Good Luck.
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I considered it a pimping auction for a face to face with Sharon Stone (where you also got to take away an old Land Rover as a memento)?
Well there were 11 bidders, and the winner will be spending $82,100 for the privilege.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/33tacw
BTW, if you didn't watch the video included in the advert, then I advise you that it's either hilariously funny, or
cringe makingly awful.
Treat it as funny, it's easier on the blood pressure.
Just don't believe it has any relevance to the real world life that I, and possibly you, experience every day.
Cheers.
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I agree with bishbosh.
I'll add that people should learn to keep their own personal contacts list.
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Look for a battery number, then both Google and ebay search on that battery number.
I was amazed at how 'common' the special Toshiba battery was for my still camera. Apparently used by lot's of kit from lots of different manufacturers.
I'm not familiar with the Snap-on Nut Runner, but you may not be as lucky as I was, as these 12 or 18v batteries tend to be assembled from cells welded together, so it's tricky to buy the individual cells and build your own.
I did 'build my own' when I needed a replacement battery for a Makita drill, but I soon saw the error of my ways and bought an open market replacement.
HTH
PS, If you do buy a replacement that is not Snap-on branded, assume you will end up buying directly from Hong Kong or China. The branded part will still have come from Asia, but just not as directly.
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"Have checked the documents, and it is a 1957 serie II. Collector's item?"
If you want to create a verifiable provenance, that will withstand future scrutiny, and may be a financial asset, I'd say you have to ask the BMIHT at Gaydon, at least for a letter if not an (expensive) certificate.
Alternatively, ask the appropriate officer at the Series 2 Club, although you may have to join to avail yourself of this service.
If you use the VIN on the documentation you have, or the easy to read plate in the vehicle, you are taking a slight gamble. Ideally you want the VIN off the leading outside spring hanger of the front RH spring, although this isn't always obvious. requiring scraping to remove underseal and surface rust, plus polishing with a wire brush, to make the stamped in number distinguishable.
HTH
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Responding to your 'first Landy' comment.
Air Lock.
I tend to agree with this as the heater isn't working. The lack of coolant in the system may also contribute to the high load overheating.
It's possible muck has been dislodged and is caught in the narrow restriction caused by the heater tap. Remove the tap and clean the internal passage way. A small wire brush sold for plumbers to clean the internals of copper pipe may be useful here. B&Q, Wickes, etc, should supply.
With the engine cold, leave the radiator cap in place but open the highest hose to metal joint in the system, this is probably one of the heater pipes. Put a funnel in the hose end and Slowly pour in coolant. Slowly should allow the air to come out as well as coolant flow in. Eventually coolant will come out of the metal pipe you took the hose off. Reconnect the hose and that should get the heater working.
If it doesn't get as hot, or takes it's time warming up, get the engine hot and equip yourself with heavy waterproof gloves (not the skinny latex / nitrile ones). Leave the cap in place and start to open the same joint. Beware the pressure will force some hot coolant as well as hot air out. When it seems the flow is all coolant (perhaps after a couple of seconds) reclose the joint. When the engine cools down, top up as required.
If the heater works for a couple of days, then stops, repeat the air bleed process, but it's an indication air is getting into the cooling system, probably from a blown headgasket, but do recheck any disturbed connections for leaks.
Radiator cleaning.
I was taught (but I don't do mud plugging) that a power jet wash was not good for the external cleaning of radiators. Neither was attacking the radiator from the easy side (the front).
Working from the front pushes muck further back into the core, where the jet can't get to it, and the power of the jet will bend over the fins, further preventing access of both cleaning water and air.
This time I'd take out the radiator and just use mains water pressure from the rear. As it's a new to you vehicle this extra work will enable you to gain a good idea of the physical condition of the fins etc. Take the opportunity to straighten bent fins, and also reverse flush the radiator internally.
If this extra cleaning doesn't put you off mud plugging, consider making up a lance that will fit on the garden hose, go down between the engine and the radiator, and squirt water out sideways. I'm thinking a 15mm copper pipe, closed off at one end, with a slot cut in one side about a inch from the closed end. After the slot is cut with a hacksaw, 1/3 to 1/2 way through the pipe, squeeze the pipe around the area of the cut to make the pipe oval. This will leave the slot pointing one way. Now you can clean the radiator from the rear without damaging the fins.
Just think how lucky you are with the weather. November, it 'ought' to be freezing when playing with all this water.
Have fun.
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Yes Mo, I expected to have my 'witty' response swamped by other contributions all extolling the virtues of steel springs. Unfortunately they haven't materialised.
Good Luck.
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My Controls, Options, Board Settings.
This is the place to kill both Avatars and Signatures, they have separate controls.
White90 called it a last option.
For me it's a first option, as I consider them a total waste of screen real estate.
Obviously essential on a forum specialising in Vanity posts, but this isn't one of those, is it?
Of course your views can differ, just so long as I can switch them off :-))
New low cost sub-notebook
in International Forum
Posted
Do you really think a 7" screen is viable, even when slow speed Green Laning?
Then there's the high speed (30mph) linking sections.
At a magnification that you can see the details, and ensure the GPS 'you are here' marker isn't covering 100 sq yards, then surely you can see so little of the surroundings, or get advance warning, that you would have to know the district well enough not to need any map.
Talking of GPS, how does this thing pick up the signal?
I don't see this delivering the goods, black or white.
Sorry to be negative.