David Sparkes
-
Posts
2,530 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by David Sparkes
-
-
ALR6968, about a tenner, 4 years ago to the month :-)
I'm not saying it's a common failure, but the Dealer had one on the shelf.
Note that Left and Right are different, this is for the Right.
Cheers.
-
"I unfortunately had System Restore switched off, because I had a problem with it once (I had a virus and it kept trying to restore the virus!!) and never switched it back on."
The way to deal with this is to switch System Restore off, then reboot the PC. When it restarts it will loose all the restore points, thus won't try to re-install your virus. After starting, switch System Restore back on and create a Restore Point.
HTH
-
Once I'd got over the mental block of 'do I trust Microsoft', and realised that I had no option but to trust their update service. If I didn't I had to go another route, say Mac. This wasn't viable in my case.
If you really aren't going to accept MS Updates then you are leaving yourself wide open to another kick in the balls.
I've haven't used Norton stuff for years. Currently I run McAffee Virusscan 7, although I'll be updating to 8 soon, hopefully within the month.
When I installed SP2 I was fortunate to get a magazine cover disk.
For MS Updates, I also choose the middle course of 'download and advise me', mainly so I could time the installations when I wasn't busy.
It is true that sometimes, and this is more common if the PC is out of date, installing one set of updates reveals more that needs doing, so more updates are downloaded and need to be installed. This merely re-inforces the view that it is better to keep on top of the situation by accepting every update MS sends. They aren''t doing it to tiddle you off.
You very first recovery option is to look in Help and Support to see if you have a System Restore point from before you started your downloads. If so, use it. If the PC now seems to be running OK, set a new Restore Point. As I suspect this will be with your Norton installation you may want to take that out. Create another Restore Point. Reinstall your preferred protection system. Set another restore point. Get an SP2 CD, someone, even me, will snail mail you a copy if required.
Then sign up for Update download but not install, go to the MS site and have their system check yours, installing what they suggest, although I'd never leave the PC running overnight, just have something else to do.
Initially, always set Restore Points before making any changes. As your confidence returns you can ease off on the Restore Points. When the system appears stable and satisfactory, use the Disk Clean-up Advanced option to remove all restore points but the last one. This gets you some of your harddisk space back.
If you aren't happy with that recovery system, then I'd say the next option is to insert your Windows XP CD and select install. During this it will recognise that an installation exists, and one of the options is to 'repair' that installation, maintaining your settings.
If neither suggestion appeals, or works, the next is not a new PC, but to buy a new hard drive. Boot from the XP CD and do a virgin installation. You are aware of the disadvatages, that is why this is the last suggestion. Also buy an external case that will take your existing hard drive so that when the time comes you can copy back the personal files.
For a slow PC, don't forget to run CHKDSK from the Command Line, and don't forget that Defrag does help, even on a modern machine.
HTH
-
"The RR air compressor has been criticized by some for being inadequate in capacity and too expensive, but in reality it is a sturdy industrial 1/5 horsepower 20 amp "Wobl" piston unit made by Thomas Pumps, one of the best-known manufacturers in the world. It is a member of the Thomas Pumps 315 model series (see details below), has a flow rate of about 0.96 cfm at low pressure, and according to justcompressor.com (http://www.justaimlinks.com/compressor_thomas.htm) it can fill a 3 gallon tank from 0 to 150 psi in 4 minutes 45 seconds. It is commonly used by low rider fans to pump up their vehicles. It has to keep the 10 liter (2.5 gallon) Range Rover air tank charged up to 10 bar (150 psi), which is a much higher pressure than most off-road air compressers can reach. The compressor also has a much harder life than the average air compressor, having to operate in hot under-the-hood conditions (it is rated at 158 degrees ambient) for hundreds of hours rather than a few minutes at a time. "
Read here for alternatives:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/a...sor.html#thomas
While interesting, a lot of that information has now been rendered redundant, as overhaul kits for the original compressor are available at a reasonable price from www.rover-renovations.com
Yes, I am a satisfied customer.
There are instructions on the site to assist in repair. Ignore the advice if you like wasting money by wrecking the piston ring.
A note about the original 38A installation.
Despite what I've copied above, the pump is protected by a 30 Amp fuse, I suggest you replicate that protection.
There is NO thermal cut out in the pump. There is a normally closed contact, connected to Earth, which opens when overheating occurs, but it's up to 'you' to create a circuit where this disconnects the operate path for the switching relay. Is it stating the obvious to say that this contact is not designed to switch off a hot inductive circuit directly? Perhaps not, but it is stated just in case. Use relays to switch the pump.
HTH
-
The now recommended (by experience) method of loosening alloy wheels that have corroded onto the hub is to release each nut by about one turn, then drive down the road or driveway for a short distance.
Use with discretion, but it's a lot easier than throwing a hammer at a piece of bouncy rubber.
-
Excellent.
Options: Board Settings.
I can even get rid of the sigs that waste so much screen space.
Thankyou, a top tip indeed.
-
"All the more difficult considering he was sat next to me on the drive home from Minehead........................."
It wouldn't have been unreasonable to 'suggest' he used a taxi.
Mind you, it depends how high you wanted the 'boat burning' flames to reach.
Anyway, we are here to commiserate. No practical bloody use at all, but commiserations all the same :-)
-
Good to hear of the positive result.
Thanks.
-
Having said "I do believe that's my last throw of the dice. " I now find something else to add.
Ebay UK item 4645963309
I know it's not the same loom (YMG000660), but it gives a price guide to follow.
RETAILS AT £425.35
Bidding starts at £69.99
I like his patter:
100% BRAND NEW GENUINE RANGE ROVER PART
VERY RARE FIND INDEED
-
Thanks Western for your Microcat response. I'll have to sort through the information I have and reconsider my approach.
I confess that in the past when I've 'date changed' in order to run software, I often fail to change the date back, then people complain of Mis-dated emails :-)
-
When I asked this question sometime ago, in a different forum, the repeated and strongly emphasised advice , from different people, was to remove any batteries and wash the electronics with Clean, but CLEAN water. Distilled water is best, but running water out of the taps is MUCH better than nothing. Shake as much loose water out as possible, and leave to dry naturally in a warm environment. You apparently have a good weekend for it. Let it dry naturally (no hair dryers or hot air guns), and give it Time, Days not Hours. Then replace the batteries and away you go.
I had asked the question on behalf of someone else, and as often happens, I didn't get any feedback (that I recall) to say the advice worked.
But I thought it good, so stored it in my little grey cells, and offer it to you, gratis :-)
PS. Admin, why is there no spell checking facility on this board? Personally I put that as much more important than smilies, or even being able to do 'arty' effects with fonts.
Cheers.
-
"My guess is 'Brake Skid Control' is Land Rover fancy speak for ABS, rather than EBD."
My instinct is to disagree, in that reading about the 38A or Disco II I see reference to ABS, but not Brake Skid Control. I haven't done much reading about the L322 and later models.
It gets better.
Google for "Brake Skid Control" (include the " ") and most of the returns refer to the NASA Shuttle design!!
However, further down page 2 we find references to it in relation to parts for the Ford Explorer.
So, I guess it's Ford inspired fancy speak for a feature on the latest LRs, that Ford have obviously had a hand in.
I do believe that's my last throw of the dice. We need an inside contact now!
Cheers, and good night.
-
Having flattened the original query, I'll drift off sideways.
Microcat Men.
Are you sure you are looking at the month / year database you say you are?
I understood the early Microcat versions came with a modified dll file to enable operation. After several updates of the database this dll file was no longer effective. Later versions of the software came with some replacement files, which were used to overwrite the files deposited by the installation off the CD.
These replacement files seem to date from much earlier, say 2002, and I wonder if the data you see is actually 2005? At that date I'd expect you to see the L322 and Sport Range Rovers, perhaps the LR3 as well. Can parts information for these actually be viewed?
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
-
I did this the old fashioned way, called 'Ring the Dealers Parts Department'. I did it early before he got overwhelmed and or bored by the day.
You may think asking the Dealer is boring, but in this case it proved 'interesting' but also left a trail to follow up, should anyone apart from Kev B care!
AMR 3687 does not appear on the Dealers Microcat, even looking across all catalogues.
It DOES appear on the LR Database, and is the superceeding part for AMR 3606.
AMR 3606 also does not appear on the Dealers Microcat, and when entered on the LR Database it points to the later part.
However, AMR 3606 is described as an Engine Harness (which engine I didn't enquire).
AMR3687 is described as a 'Wiring Assembly, Brake Skid Control'.
On the face of it, these parts don't match, but my reasoning is that they are both Engine Bay Harnesses, but the later one has more / different connections to cater for this Brake Skid Control.
Now the LR Database doesn't say what car the part fits, but 'Brake Skid Control' must, I feel, belong to one of the later models that allows for seperate braking of individual wheels to reduce the Yaw experienced when a car starts to skid sideways under braking that is too heavy for the road conditions.
I don't keep up with the modern Land Rovers, so don't know which models have Brake Skid Control, at least one of them must have. One of the RR Sport perhaps? 'V8 EFi' may be a bit wide of the mark. I'd start with checking the number of cylinders / injector connectors.
Somebody must have been a bloody big lunch box, that's all I can say.
Oh yes, ebay price.
Given the above, I'm not sure how big the market is for the actual product, unless it's treated as 'lots of wires, all tied together, with some connectors that will never fit anything you have'.
As a guide, Land Rover sell this bunch of wires for £860.73, plus VAT.
HTH, and please post the ebay Item Code for the sale, it should be good for a laugh :-)
-
"I wondered if anyone here has ever been on a "paid for" green lane trip"
Yes, '99 or 2000 at Christmas time, with someone who was then Derbyshire based, and who was just starting up a part time business for guided Green Lane tours, which later folded due to the expense of getting insurance.
Later I went on another Derbyshire one, organised under the auspices of a LR magazine, but run wholly by someone who makes their living out of tours in Africa and Scandinavia.
"... any information or impressions that I might find useful. What did you expect? Did the trip deliver?
How might it have been better/what would you have liked do do that you didn't?"
Trip one. I was very new, and didn't know what to expect, so had no preconceptions. The countryside was good, but anyone who says bush scratches will polish out is either lying or ignorant. When they said the route was suitable for shinies I didn't expect permanent damage to the paintwork. With hindsight I only recall one spot when I should have reversed out, and selected a different set of ruts that would have avoided a hawthorn bush. You could call that damage self inflicted, but none of the rest was.
If you are going to say suitable for shinies, the paint should touch nothing but green vegetation, brown wood should be absent. I was a little disconcerted that the guiding team, while experienced in off tarmac driving, and Land Rovers (he now writes for an LR magazine), knew so little about 38As that he didn't know where the diffs were, and that I might take a different route because of that.
Towards the end of the day I was getting bored following the same tail lights that I had been following all day.
"what would you have liked do do that you didn't".
With hindsight, I thought the running order should be changed around, with everyone persuaded to lead, with the tour leader riding shotgun in the car. Any passenger in the car that is now leading swops into the passenger seat of the guides vehicle, which always runs in second place in the queue, with the guide assistant driving. This means the guide never actually drives the route 'on the day', but in this case he had driven the route the day before to minimise the risk of unexpected surprises. This means that everone gets the experience of picking the route, and I now know a lot of people regard that as 'frightening', but with an experienced guide alongside it's as reasuring as it can be. The churn in vehicle order stops boredom creeping in, and allows drivers to observe how different vehicles tackle / handle terrain.
Trip 2.
Organised by a bunch of experienced but incompetant and inconsiderate people. The wife in the office said one thing, the husband did something completely different. She agreed with my comment that there was no point of knocking the countryside to pieces, and that the route would be suitable for shinies. He clearly hadn't been told, or discounted the idea as rubbish, but no message got back to me. I did the first half of the route, to show I could, then handed him the route card back, and without shouting or swearing, made it quite clear I thought their organisation lacking. His proffessionally sunny disposition was definately clouded, his assistant looked downright miserable, and stood well back. 2 weeks later I got an e-mail inviting me on another trip !! Clearly a husband and wife team who didn't speak, or didn't listen. My e-mail response secured a one liner reply, saying they were complying with my request to take me off their mailing list. A RESULT!
The one thing I did like about this trip was the route card. This contained a Tulip diagram, which although I'd heard off, and read about, I'd never actually used before. We were briefed on how it worked, and they sent me off as number one, there being a 5 minute delay between vehicle despatch. I had intended to take a passenger, but it hadn't worked out, (a blessing, considering how the day ended) so I was navigating and driving. Others had GPS, I didn't, but the man who was supposedly putting together a list of waypoints cocked up (surprise) so that might be why I was leading, he was trying to sort things out for the others.
Clearly, it's a bit difficult translating the tulip onto the map, and driving at the same time. So, no map, just the Tulip and the steering wheel, with frequent stops to check what the Tulip said next. No chance of boredom here!! I did well, and only went off route after a couple of vehicles passed me, opened a gate and went into a field, and held the gate open for me to follow, which I did, without checking the Tulip. They were wrong, even though mob handed.
The final straw was when we got to the bit that he had briefed was narrow, bordered by trees and stone walls. He had pointed out that we could 'escape' from the route at this point, and that is what I intended to do. One of the assistance vehicles followed me in, and when it became obvious there was no space to pass, or turn round, as the leader had indicated there was, she declined to reverse the quarter mile out, down a narrow, but 'softly' vegetated lane. So, I cleared the branches that were hanging below roof height, as the male assistant clearly didn't have a saw, or the inclination to swing an arm, which is effectively the same thing. I then drove the lane, with no-one volunteering to spot for me. I did reasonably well, scratched the nearside door on a stone wall, but didn't bend metal, or crack plastic. I did fold both mirrors back against trees, without hitting the tree in either case, which if you look at a 38A indicates a pretty close call.
I think that answers your questions I've copied above.
I now Green Lane as passenger for the organiser in a local club. We are in the lead vehicle, he gets the drive, I get a clear view of wonderful countryside, without tail lights, a bit of exercise opening gates, and a map to read. I enjoy watching a skilful driver at work, and we have a good crack. It's good.
I sometimes think of driving myself, but I wouldn't enjoy just following, and there are always some lanes I wouldn't want to take my car down.
You have commented about the 'mud' element of your name.
I wouldn't even dream of going with any organisation which implied 'mud is good'. I don't mind soft ground with differential deep ruts, but I think of mud as being liquid and I have more respect for my car than to choke the radiators with mud. Nor do I think it 'fun' to have to clean them out afterwards.
Clearly, you can easily imagine I don't see much point in driving through a gate, driving around a field or forest in convoluted circles, then driving back out of the same gate. It has some purpose if you are doing training, but training for what if you aren't going to drive on Green Lanes?
And please don't get me started on 'Trainers'. In my experience, some don't have the knowledge, some do but can't translate it from their 90" vehicle to the Customers 108" vehicle, and some just can't explain what they apparently know.
I'd rather learn by my own mistakes, than pay someone for his ego trip.
"Your views welcomed."
I hope so, that was longer than I intended :-)
David,
With a 11 year old 38A, that hasn't passed through life without showing something of the experience.
-
The prospective owner of a 4.0 SE 38A (no year specified) admits "I'm no mechanic so if anyone knows of an independent garage in Gloucester, that would be helpful."
Anybody in the Gloucester area care (dare) to make a recommendation I can forward?
Thanks.
-
OK, I've had a quick read of the workshop manual. Section 19, Fuel System, Land Rover V8, Description and Operation, Componant Descriptions, Pre 99MY.
As well as describing what each componant does, it also describes what happens if it fails.
Re the O2 sensors it relates an interesting situation on NAS vehicles; these have additional sensors after the cats. If the wiring to the before cat and after cat sensors are reversed, the system works OK at Idle (open loop working), but as soon as the engine warms, one bank is sent rich, and the other lean, causing black smoke and rough running. Pity yours isn't a NAS vehicle :-)
The sensors on all cars are heated, not just during engine warm up, but during normal running, to ensure the sensor is always warm enough. The 12 volt supply is Pulse Width Modulated, so if you were to try and read it with a multimeter you would get apparently inconsistant readings.
This bit might help:
"In the event of sensor failure, the system will default to ’open loop’ operation. Fuelling will be calculated using signals from the remaining ECM inputs."
We could use this feature to prove, possibly definatively, that the rough running when warm is due to poor fuelling control (strictly O2 sensor feedback. Other factors may affect fuelling, such as the coolant sensor). Either disconnect the O2 sensors, then start and warm the engine, as before, and see if the transistion from 'OK to Rough' occurs as before. Or delay disconnection of the sensors until the engine has warmed, and is running rough. In this strategy the engine should revert to smooth running.
I hope and assume all the other sensors are connected, coolant temperature and air temperature, being the most critical.
For completeness, the O2 voltage output varies from 0 volts Rich, 5 volts Lean.
I can see nothing else which would account for the change in running as the engine warms.
-
"I didn't have the throttle open, and didn't think it would make a difference?"
I was taught the throttle should always be fully open. This was taught when I was at an impressionable age, and I've never queried it, or tried a back to back comparison to see what difference it makes. As air has to be drawn past the closed throttle plate it may be that it simply takes longer to reach the maximum reading, and or the maximum reading is slightly lower, as the cylinder fill is clearly affected if most of the inlet throat is blocked.
I just tried a relevant Google, and the most authorative page I found comes from Puma Racing.
" ... Open the throttle fully either by pressing the accelerator or wedging the linkage open under the bonnet. If the throttle isn't open then air can't get into the cylinder and the readings will be far too low. Crank the engine until the gauge stops rising and count the revolutions while you do so. It should normally take no more than 10 engine revolutions (5 compression cycles) to get a full reading. You can count the cycles by watching the gauge too - each jump of the needle is one compression stroke. Write down the final reading and also make a mental note of how quickly the gauge rose on the first few cycles. Then just repeat for the other cylinders. Make sure that each cylinder reaches its highest reading after the same number of engine revolutions. If all readings are good then the test can end there. If any cylinders are low then a "wet" test can be done. This involves squirting a few ccs of oil into the cylinder and repeating the test. The oil will help seal bad rings and increase the reading but won't affect it if the problem lies in the valves or head gasket. Copyright David Baker and Puma Race Engines"
There's more on interpreting the results, and on using a leakdown test, at http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/comp.htm
Really, I think this is a side issue, as the figures you got seemed reasonable to me.
"Engine ran fine until it got up to operating temperature ..."
This comment seems 'interesting'. To me it ties in with the change from open loop to closed loop fuelling control. However, I do need to read up on this, as it is no longer my area of interest / detailed knowledge.
'Up to operating temperature' is just while the car is static, yes? So we aren't talking about a very hot engine, having been thrashed down the local dual carriageway, with very thin oil floating around.
In fact, it's very likely it's only the coolant that is up to temperature. My experience of monitoring oil temperature (alright, in a Mini, with the gearbox using the same oil) is that oil takes a long time to get hot.
So, I'd rule out superthin oil being a contributory factor.
-
I only thought of the colourtune as giving an insight into what was burning in the combustion chamber.
They easily show orange for rich mixture, and blue going on white for a weak mixture.
I can't recall what they show for an oil rich mixture. Given your other comments, I don't think a colourtune would now help. No, I wasn't thinking one cylinder would be different to another. If all the plugs are coming out the same, then whatever is affecting one is affecting them all.
"The spark plugs are very oily once the engine is up to temperature, whereas they were slightly dark, but dry previously."
If I read this correctly, putting the shims in has promoted oil burning? 'Slightly dark, but dry' suggests there was a bit of oil, but it was being burnt. Now the oil has increased to the point that it isn't all burnt.
As a matter of interest, how thick were the shims?
It appears their effect on the valve timing has been significant. Lifting the pivot point away from the cam and the valve has meant all the valves open later, and close earlier. It seems stating the obvious, but I could be wrong, that this has significantly reduced the air flow. One assumes the fuel intake is also reduced, as the O2 sensors keep the mixture stable. If the oil intake has remained the same, this would explain why all the oil is not now being burned. The surplus oil could give your "puff of smoke when the engine is briefly revved ".
It might depend on your tester, but you may well see lower combustion pressures on all cylinders if you were to repeat the tests on the shimmed engine. "Depend on your tester": some testers seem to hit the maximum reading after one compression stroke, others need the piston to hit compression several times before the reading stops rising. Mine is like this, and yes, I do test with the throttle fully open!
I'm not sure what the difference is between how the testers work, just saying that under this 'fault' condition one may pick it up better than the other.
Whatever, I think the shims are going to have to come out. Sorry.
I'll post this for now, but I think we have to re-read the symptoms from the beginning, and re-analyze them on the basis that the valves are closing properly. If doing that still shows one cylinder (spark plug) is different to the rest, then the Colourtune might help, swapped between two cylinders.
I've mentioned O2 sensors. Reading the voltages from those might be useful, just to ensure they are still working, and that the engine isn't running a default fuelling strategy. I ought to know what the voltages should be, but not running a petrol engine myself, I forget. I do assume this system starts in an open loop mode, where the O2 sensors don't control the mixture, then as the engine warms it switches to closed loop, where they do.
I don't know, without looking at a diagram + set of words, if these sensors are electrically heated or not.
Do you know all these items without me looking them up?
That's all I've got for now.
-
At this point I feel like 'Jonah'
I also have been up and down on this problem, although as all I do is 'talk' about it, my downs don't bear comparison with yours.
I was nervous when you posted on the Rangerovers.net forum, but pleased when I saw allyv8 respond so quickly.
When I saw the suggestions about shims I kicked myself for not remembering that, as it was a 'standard' modification on the BMC B series engine. I built mine with shims, and yes, I knew to have an oil feed hole. I was beaten to the reminder though.
I mentioned the leakdown test earlier, to diagnose the leakage point from the cylinders.
Another 'diagnostic' test would be to disconnect the crankcase breathing system, which 'might' prove if the problem is piston blowby. Of course, if the crankcase breathing system is blocked, making it vent to a catch tank may not change anything, as the crankcase pressurisation on the compression stroke is being vented into another cylinder on the induction stroke.
If the crankcase breathing system is working, and blowby is occuring, it will be very noticable.
You will have the knowledge and experience I don't have, as to how the crankcase breathing system works on these engines, and what is a 'normal' amount of smoke for it to vent.
Just revisiting old ground, do you think the smoke is oil or petrol?
Do you still have a clean Colourtune plug you could use?
HTH
-
You gotta laugh sometimes!
Comment
Finding a reliable sweep and boy isn't easy these days
Next Post
My wife can get you one if you want - they sell them upto 2m, she thinks they are about 50 notes but will check. Expensive but very good quality. She has just mentioned trade discount by the way - as you are 'in the trade'...
I know, quoting out of context etc etc.
But it's still funny, on several levels.
What trade is it exactly, where the Mrs can get 2 metre boy chimney sweeps, at a discount even?
Thankyou for that.
-
I think you should redo the compression test with the engine hot, under the conditions you speculate the valves are not closing.
Low figures will support your idea, the same or higher figures won't.
I'm staying neutral at the moment.
Another possible test, with the engine hot, and maintained hot by running the engine after testing each cylinder, is to do a leakdown test. Not so much to see what leakage you get, but to listen where the air exits the engine; the exhaust pipe, air filter intake, or rocker box oil filler.
My only thoughts on grinding pushrods centre around going through the hardened surface. Either case hardened or work hardened.
I have no experience with the V8, and I don't want any where it's my sweat and my money being used.
However, I'd be asking your questions of people who do work on V8s. I'll pass by the 'obvious suspects' and follow a link from Gordon Finlay, as I believe his work is of good quality.
http://www.gordonfinlay-lpgconversions.co.uk/links.html to read the recommendation.
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/ for the people themselves.
Good Luck.
PS
Someone else you may like to contact is 'allyv8' on the www.RangeRovers.net 4.0/4.6 Forum (thats the 38A to us).
From his comments he is in the UK, and appears to be 'trade'. Whether that makes him competitor or colleague I'll leave you to find out.
This recent contribution from him makes me think he might have something to offer, it's not everyone who monitors sensors with an oscilloscope.
You will, of course, have to register on the site in order to PM him.
HTH
-
It has to cover ALL models right up to and including 2006 and the future.
If you REALLY mean that then you have to buy the Land Rover system from their suppliers.
Try http://www.interro.com/cat/catalog802.htm for starters.
http://www.omitec.com/ is the UK site (They are a UK company, IIRC).
Either of the independants, Blackbox Solutions (Rovacom), or Autologic will be behind the Omitec stuff.
Reputedly, Autologic 'copy' (unofficially) the Omitec release, so may be quicker than Blackbox to to cover new LRs, but they (reputedly) cannot offer any facilities that the official kit does not.
Blackbox break the security in all the ECU software, with the avowed aim of offering the user any and every facility hidden in there by the ECU manufacturer. This CAN include facilities that LR don't want offered to their technicians, and even facilities LR haven't licenced from the ECU manufacturer, but have left in there.
Whether these facilities are of any use to you is another matter. You won't know what they are until the software module is released.
To get more specific information you need to ask Blackbox directly. They don't list the unofficial facilities within each module.
Hope this helps.
-
SNIP
I was about to ask whether anyone knew of a way it would be possible to manually disable the lock up. To me, its a bloody pain in the arse how it locks up at 36mph . . .esp when towing. You immediately lose acceleration when you pull a heavy load. It'd be great to temporraily disable through a switch once in a while.
Have you tried using Sport mode when towing?
The manual shows that on a Diesel, or pre-'99 Petrol, pin 42 on the gearbox ETC is the output which controls the solenoid valve that switches the lock-up on.
It might be interesting to monitor this with a voltmeter to see what condition is 'normal' and what condition is present when lock up occours. Then you will know what condition needs to be keep 'on' to stop the lock-up occouring.
David.
colour me bulbs
in International Forum
Posted
Boringly, there is such a thing as Paint for Glass, and ceramics, and similar stuff.
Available from Artists shops. More expensive than a small box of Quality Street.
A slightly bigger scale that dash lights, but I 'created' a rear fog light that matched in size the reversing light on the other end of the towbar.
Less boring is the fact that they started out as a matched pair of rectangular front fog lights, and may possibly have retained the 55W Halogen bulbs in their new role. Mounted low down, the lenses had to be reversed so that the sharp horizontal cut off was at the bottom. Then they worked fine.
:-))