David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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Reads90, Could extend the courtesy of editing your post to credit the original source, by means of a url, or similar. Thanks.
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I thought the new site was an appalling design that put forum posters at the bottom of whatever list of design priorities they had.
After my first visit I deleted the bookmarks. I don't really care WHY it's crashed, I'm just glad that whatever fool signed off the site design as suitable for publication is suffering pain.
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Ummm,
Just because it's an automatic doesn't prevent you selecting 1st gear manually for steep down hill bits. ABS will disconnect at low speed, that may still be too fast for comfort. Engine braking gives better control ALWAYS, V8 petrol or Diesel.
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Driving, or Fog?
If you use a fog light, and turn the glass upside down, so the flat cut off is at the bottom of the light beam, you can angle the light downwards but still ensure the light doesn't hit the bonnet. The rest of the light will still illuminate the trees, lane edges, etc. You won't have long range, but in the UK you aren't going fast enough to use it. Also you want the light shining down into holes, long range lights merely put the hole in shadow, without showing how deep the hole is.
It's true, I have no experience of roof mounted lights, but I used the same approach when I used a low level mounted Fog light as an (illegal) reversing light, and the upsidedown beam worked very well.
HTH
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Some will know, from my previous posts, that I tend to the serious and the practical, with no time for idle tiddle-taking or posting nonsense just to keep my post count up.
That hasn't changed, so without bothering to challenge anything that previous contributors have posted, I will just draw the original posters attention to http://www.zen19051.zen.co.uk/prod01.htm
Note that his prices say 'fitted', so what The Derv Doctor' will do when faced with an address in Kingston Jamaica is anybodies guess.
The Derv Doctor has been advertising in UK magazines for some months, long enough to have been sussed out if he wasn't paying his advertising account. Reader should also note that he doesn't say anything about a performance increase, just more noise. As a lot of money is spent on 'noise systems' be they radios or engine exhausts, I don't see the problem in going for this noise maker. It isn't for me, but neither is a lot of the mud and bull**** activities endorsed by other contributors on this forum.
Good Luck Bruce, the choice, as ever, is yours.
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I'd always considered a Kelly Kettle to be a 'natural fuel' stove, twigs and sticks, possibly pre-prepared, and therefore a bit of a pain. What I've got from some comments in this thread is that I could consider the KK to be a diesel fuel stove, and the only preparation is a newspaper, diesel being my engine fuel of choice. Is 'a diesel fuelled stove' a reasonable description? Because that sounds more my style. What about soot?
Just to be more awkward, what's it like for doing cooking a little more complicated than burning water?
Cheers.
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" Has anyone here changed a DSE thermostat "
Yes.
"looking at the workshop manual seems to indicate the removal of the VC fan is required. Is this correst? "
Yes.
"If so are there any cheeky (cheap) alternatives to the "special landrover tools" required to remove the fan."
I used a spanner of the right size (32 or 36mm, or the Imperial equivalent, I forget), jammed a flat screwdriver tip of suitable size between the centre boss and a pulley bolt head. Have the spanner poking straight up, and hold the screwdriver to stop the pulley turning. Strike the end of the spanner in the correct direction, which is ALWAYS the same direction the fan rotates when the engine is running. This might not be the direction you think of, but " the same direction the fan rotates when the engine is running" is ALWAYS correct.
It's a matter of luck if the nut comes free at the first blow. Mine always has.
Forget about a bloody kenlowe, If you have that money to throw around, on a pukka kit or a scrapyard equivalent, you should first spend money on proper tools.
Difflock do a kit of two spanners, or they can be bought seperately. One is a double ended long spanner, 32 x 36 mm. The other is the 4 hole C spanner designed so the holes drop over the heads of the bolts that hold the pulley on.
Frankly the best advice is to fish in a deeper pool, with more people who care about and are interested in the 38A.
Go to www.Rangerovers.net, select the 4.0/4.6 Forum.
Lots of Americans, which can't helped, but also some UK and Europeans with their heads screwed on. They also have Diesel experience.
BTW, you will also need (or should have available) an O ring for the coolant pipe the workshop manual mentions. I don't seem to have recorded it's size, but 22 mm ID by 2.5mm cross section rings a bell.
Good Luck
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What Model Year, Auto or Manual?
If using Paddocks you may want to 'take a view' on whether you want to use Britpart parts.
Some people swear by them, some people swear at them.
My assumption here is that Paddocks ARE selling a Britpart part.
The O ring is usefull to have around, or to put that another way, you are knackered if you need one and haven't got it.
You'd have to ask, but a Dealer Thermostat may have an O ring in the box.
If you buy LR oil filters, for instance, they come with washers and O rings for the filter housing, and the sump plug.
I bought my last thermostat from a Motor Factors, and at the second attempt got the right one supplied.
15 months later the gauge has gone back to reading low; not in the blue, but lower than the correct 12 o'clock position.
Ask your Dealer if they have a 'Loyalty' scheme (the term may vary), whereby you get 10% off parts for vehicles over 3 years old. If not, try another Dealer.
If the thermostat is missing, which your 'in the blue' report might suggest, suspect the fan VC is knackered. Use the one specified for a 300TDi. My Britpart unit, from DLS in Wirksworth, is still workig fine, some 2 years after installing. Use the Forum search as a first step in establishing how to test if a fan VC is working or not.
Re EGR, some have them, some don't. I think the introduction was '97, but haven't checked today. The inlet hose on the inlet manifold is the give away. If it couples directly to the alloy manifold, there is no EGR. If the hose connects to a tin valve, that's EGR. To disable it (and I'd say that's a good idea), look for the 1/4" OD pipe, with braided cotton covering, that goes from the valve towards the bulkhead mounted control valve. Remove the pipe at the manifold end and plug it. Plugging is important, because if you don't it appears to disable the Cruise Control (if fitted).
MPG. Mine was converted (JJF Intercooler and ECu programme) within 3 days of buying it, the cost was included in the purchase budget, but no way on Gods Green Earth are you going to get 35 mpg, unless it's on a oneway trip from the top of an Alp somewhere. Aim for 30 as a 'best' figure. If an Auto, relax, and deliberately drive sedately on acceleration, otherwise the box keeps changing down and the engine rev's it's bolts off. Use the high driving position to look several vehicles ahead and anticipate traffic flow.
Head Gasket.
Look for the obvious signs of coolant leakage at any pipe joint (white crystals), correct any you see leaking, and ensure the coolant level stays up.
Assuming RHD, check the footwell carpet for dampness / antifreeze smell where your left foot rests. There are some O rings above and to the left of your big toe that sometimes leak, dripping onto the sloping side of the transmissiom tunnel, then to the floor. More a problem with V8s than diesels, but it can afflict both.
PS, If you want more 38A friendly forums, use the Mailing List associated with www.Rangie.com, and in any case don't overlook the 38A articles on the Knowledgebase.
The 4.0/4.6 Forum on www.Rangerovers.net has a lot of throughput. Unfortunately a lot is American, but there are some European contributors, so some of them understand the Diesel word. I haven't visited for a month or two, as you might gather, my patience has run out.
The other UK site worth browsing, although weak on Diesel, is www.P38A.co.uk.
HTH, and enjoy a thoroughly civilised tarmac chariot.
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Generally, power output, location, and Traction Control govern the fitment of 4 pin diffs.
Thus Diesels and early 4.0s had two pin diffs at the front and rear, as they had low power and no TC.
Post '99 axles from all models had 4 pin diffs at both ends, as all had 4 Wheel TC.
Study of a parts catalogue will get you the precise details, but if you are buying a diff second hand you can see the pinions. If you are buying it in an axle you only have the word of the vendor which model it came from anyway. Axles are numbered, but I don't recall any listing saying which number range had which diff as new.
The good news is that a 4 pin diff (from Ashcrofts) is a straightforward replacement for a 2 pin diff.
Thus my '95 DT had a 2 pin rear diff as standard, but now has an Ashcroft 4 pin installed. There is no '4 pin' marking on the diff housing.
No, the diff cannot be placed into an RRC axle.
There is 'one' Defender model that uses the 38A diff as the Defender is intended for heavy duty use. At least one accessory manufacturer calls it a 38A axle, which it clearly isn't. It is only the diff casing that is 38A, not the axle.
HTH.
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Can you be more specific about a 'bunch of warning lights ... everytime he hit the brakes'.
Were these warning lights, or a beep and a message? If a message what was it?
'Hit the brakes' - does this mean it only happened under hard braking, or any time he used the brakes?
What 'all the usual' have you checked?
Petrol Engine, Auto gearbox, you did tell us that.
Is the engine running when you select a gear?
What messages are you getting on the message centre after selecting a gear?
What gear indication is given (near the gear lever)?
Will the engine rev up after a gear is selected (rev as though no gear is selected)?
Are all reactions the same whether you have selected High or Low range?
Have you checked the gearbox fluid level?
Any other problems, outside the warning lights and won't move?
Cheers.
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I can't (won't) do picture posting to the forum.
The Parts Section is called Steering Column Lower, but contains 'Shaft Assembly-Intermediate steering Linkage'. This page shows a lower UJ, supplied as a separate item. Also shown is a shaft containing a sliding joint, that only moves in the event of an accident, what is possibly a flex joint, circular, to absorb vibration (?), and an upper UJ. Everything in that last sentance is one item, I'll call it a 'complex shaft'.
Originals, comprising both the complex shaft AND the lower UJ, were QMN100320 up to VIN XA232916 (thats '99 Model Year in 38A speak), followed by QMN100330 from VIN XA232917 to 3A802783.
The lower UJ only was QLC 100090, followed by QLC 100110, split at the VINs already quoted.
There is only one Complex shaft listed, QLB 100050, but only up to VIN XA232916.
For all these, the clamp bolts securing the UJs to the shafts are pictured as domeheaded Torx, but are only described as 'Bolt Steering Shaft, Special' QMW100060 or 100070, split at the VINs already quoted.
Next, we have a Kit, Steering Column Repair. Different for Right or Left hand drive. You haven't said, so I assume RHD.
This is the complex shaft AND the UJ, QME500020, from VIN 3A802784.
The complex shaft is not numbered separately, but the lower UJ is, Kit Steering Column Repair, Joint Assembly, Lower, and is QLE500010, from VIN 3A802784.
The bolts here are PICTURED as Hex with a built in washer, but are DESCRIBED as Bolt Special, patch Lock, M8 x 33, Torx. part QYG000030.
Now if only you had given us the VIN, it would have saved an awful lot of key presses. It's no wonder the Disco boys and girls don't come out to play when you call. :-))
I don't have prices.
HTH
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What might be useful in the general 'K Series' context, is that Land Rover introduced uprated parts after the early experiences with the Freelander, AND kept the prices low.
Thus your LR Dealer will sell you Through Bolts (replace every time) for about £1.50 each, whereas Unipart, and the local Motor Factors, need £5 each before releasing them.
LR have an uprated headgasket at a reasonable price, although I forget what. Sized to fit the 1.8, it will also suit the 1.4. They do another essential, the updated thermostat with housing, for about £8.00. The other major part is the lower casting that the through bolts thread into. Essential with the new gasket, much stiffer (thus stiffening the whole engine), and about £29.00.
My friend found all this out when overhauling his son's Rover 200, and it saved him a packet, obviously, and upgraded the engine (although, being a 200, he didn't use the Freelander Thermostat housing).
HTH
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"A" green lane I notice. (Singular).
I also notice a bit of 'artful' tilting of the camera to enhance the side slope. Ah Yes, a professional photographer, that explains a lot.
Frankly, the people who regularly travel off the blacktop for enjoyment of the driving, and the countryside, can do without pictures of the excessive splash sort.
Totally uncalled for, and encouraging bad habits. When the water is a little deeper than you experienced there you can expect severe damage hitting it at that speed, never mind what the hidden rock, lump of metal, length of fencing wire, etc, will do.
You say your Sponsors encourage you in this sort of behavoir? Tell us who they are please, then we know who to avoid.
If you want to pose, please do it somewhere else, perhaps on a true Off-Road, Pay and Play site, not on the public highway, where your 'chav' tactics will rebound on the rest of us.
Thankyou.
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You can fit 'any' oil cooler, but it's better to get one of about the same size, with the same connection styles for the oil, and similar mechanical mounting brackets.
Jeremy Fearn may have old standard ones, as he takes these out when he fits a large intercooler to these models. http://www.jeremyjfearn.co.uk/power.htm 01629 732546
Note that early in the life of this model they brought out a mounting modification that allowed one end to move slightly as the intercooler heated up and expanded. There is a technical bulletin about it.
Dated 28/03/97, Titled Oil Cooler - Failure, numbered 12/01/97/EN.
Affected vehicles - Range Rover B.M.W Diesel Derivatives LP up to 360751 (that's the last 6 digits of the VIN).
After that you can expect the modified cooler to be a standard fit.
I mention this for completeness, I'd be surprised if an original oil cooler has lasted from 95 / 96 till now.
"Investigations by Land Rover engineers into failures of oil cooler units have shown that expansion of the
intercooler is placing additional strain on the oil cooler which may result in oil cooler failure. To overcome this
issue and to prevent undue strain being placed on the oil cooler, a new unit has been introduced with the
addition of a sliding joint (on the slotted side of the oil cooler) to relieve any strain occurring.
In the event of an oil cooler failure, the new condition oil cooler with the sliding joint should be fitted."
HTH
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This is from a Land Rover Technical Bulletin issued 09.08.2000. Presumably written for Land Rover Technicians to read and understand, so I hope it's OK in this thread.
AFFECTED RANGE:
Discovery Series II - All vehicles
Defender 99MY - VIN XA 159810 onwards
Range Rover - VIN YA 444892 onwards
Freelander - VIN YA 572693 onwards
NOTE:Earlier Freelanders in VIN range WA 600000 to YA 699999 are not affected by this change.
COOLANT - CHANGE TO SPECIFICATION
CAUSE:
At the above VINs, Havoline XLC (Extended Life Antifreeze Coolant) was introduced on production. This product is manufactured by Texaco.
ACTION:
The above coolant (pink in colour), which has previously only been used in Discovery Series II and Defender from 99MY, is based on ‘Organic Acid Technology’ (OAT). It is the ONLY coolant which is approved for vehicles built from the above VINs onwards and must not be mixed with any other type of coolant / anti freeze.
All concerned must be aware that the use of non-approved anti freeze will have an adverse effect on cooling system performance and durability and that Warranty will be compromised.
One part of this new anti freeze should be used with one part water for protection down to -36 degrees C, (-33 degrees F).
The product is now available from Land Rover Parts as ‘OAT Anti Freeze’,
STC 50529 - OAT Anti Freeze - 1 litre
STC 50530 - OAT Anti Freeze - 5 litre
STC 50524 - OAT Anti Freeze - 25 litre
When it says " ... must not be mixed with any other type of coolant / anti freeze" it is best to follow that instruction.
Mixing incompatible types results in a thick porridge type consistancy which neither flows well, nor transfers heat well.
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From a Technical Bulletin number 11, dated 24.04.02
MODEL/DERIVATIVE:
New Range Rover (LM) ie, the L322
AFFECTED RANGE:
All derivatives
PROBLEM:
COOLANT SPECIFICATION
Premature erosion of the cylinder head may occur.
CAUSE:
Mixing Texaco Havoline Anti-freeze Coolant (AFC) and Texaco Havoline Extended Life Anti-freeze Coolant (XLC).
ACTION:
When refilling the coolant ensure that only Texaco Havoline AFC type coolant is used. Texaco Havoline AFC is an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze (containing no methanol) with silicate non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors, it is the ONLY coolant type (AFC) which is approved by Land Rover for use in the New Range Rover and must not be mixed with any other type of coolant / anti-freeze.
CAUTION: DO NOT mix Texaco Havoline AFC type and Texaco Havoline XLC type coolants under any circumstances.
NOTE: All concerned must be aware that the use of non-approved anti-freeze will have an adverse effect on the cooling system and engine durability and that Warranty will be compromised.
One part of this anti freeze should be used with one part water for protection down to -36°C, (-33°F).
PARTS INFORMATION:
Part number Description Quantity
STC50558 Texaco Havoline AFC coolant 1 litre
STC50559 Texaco Havoline AFC coolant 5 litre
Note that I do not have access to information after 2002, so there may be yet more changes in the last 4 years.
HTH
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Disco 2 'Twin coil' pack bracket.
Piccie, part and price would be superb, 1st 2 would be marvellous !
nige
Some days you just don't get lucky.
The coils are listed as part ERR6045 at the rate of 2 per vehicle.
The bracket is shown as part of the complete Coil and Bracket Assembly ERR6566 (1 Bracket, 2 Coils, 6 Screws).
Piccies will be on the relevant RAVE CD, Dealers have Prices.
If you are really desperate for a picture, Item 25 on https://www.xksunlimited.com/xks_lr/merchan...=832&step=2
'SFunny you know, but that ERR6566 number works for both the DII and the 38A Range Rover.
What's funny is that looking at the diagrams in Microcat, you'd never guess they are the same part.
Shrug - Only matters to petrol heads, so is it important?
:-)
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Searching across catalogues on the part number NRC7616 it is shown as for the Defender. As you say, no size is given, but it says the vehicle requirement is 4.
My Microcat doesn't show RRC models earlier than '86, and they have 4 bolt Power assisted system, using M12 x 100 bolts.
When did the country go Metric? 1971 wasn't it? So possibly the Metric size was used for the pre '86 vehicles. I'm assuming the 3 bolt means pre '86.
Note that, for some reason, I assumed this query was about the Range Rover steering systems. I now see the model isn't specified.
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Nige managed to do this with a breaker bar during the dismantling of a gash V8 the other day, he was very proud
and told me to post it up - so here it is.
Beneath the CR (for chrome?), is that the letter T for Taiwan?
Smile
Three cracks certainly shows a consistant product strength.
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I am after a winch blanket that conforms with the 1kg wieght rule that doesn't have D44, ARB or some such other advert on it.
From a non-winch user, what does a 'Winch Blanket' do that a piece, or pieces, of soft fabric house mat / carpet won't do?
I'd have thought a piece of foam backed carpet, considered too ratty for her indoors to walk on, would have been flexible enough to fold over the cable. I appreciate that it really needs to stay on the cable as it flies through the air, and material that is too stiff woould be more likely to fall off immediately rather than stay with the cable.
However, I'd have thought cheap carpet, or a loose (house) floor mat, would have been flexible enough.
Just a thought.
A carpet would also be useful to kneel or lie on in other circumstances.
Of course, if 'Blanket' is the key word, Anchor Surplus used to sell them, cream or dark grey. They'd be heavy enough, and flexible enough after you've washed them :-)
Cheers.
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"If you wanted to make one, you could buy a couple of old ex sankey towing eyes like these:
available from N K Recovery (about half way down the page) for £9.50 and weld them into a piece of hefty tube."
That looks promising, thankyou.
The agricultural suppliers I spoke to on Friday baulked at the 75mm ring ID, and Anchor Supplies said they didn't sell the hitches seperately.
Cheers.
Crikey, with two of us after them the price will go up!!
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.... plus i can fit my straight bar in for towing cars, ....
Where did you get a straight bar with an eye suitable for a 5 ton Nato Hook?
Did it come as a complete item, or did you have to construct it from disperate parts?
Until I see the price, I want one.
... only down side is that you have to keep it lubricated, or keep a hammer handy.Try using Duckhams Keenol, or a similar grease, also slated for use on outboard motors, rigging screws etc.
These greases resist being washed out by water.
I have been using Keenol for years, with good results, on anything exposed to water or road spray.
Cheers.
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Try researching, then asking, on http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=2
You should have this bookmarked, despite it's American bias, as one of your popular websites.
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These are reponses I've saved from previous queries, possibly from other forums than this. Pick and Choose.
Question:
"I'm trying to get a package, well two parcels, 30kgs each, from a Belfast address to Bournemouth.
Other than www.senditquick.com are there any other couriers that anyone > can recommend".
Responses:
" If this was me I'd be looking at Parcel Force. If you don't mind it taking a bit longer then look into a pallet shifting company like Pallet Line."
"Pallet line will collect and deliver anything on a pallet. No weight limit that you are likely to reach and up to something like 2 meters tall.
If the seats could be packed on a pallet by the seller they will collect and deliver reliably. You can talk to them about collection and delivery times. I have used them several times and so far they have done the job
faultlessly. Not cheap but reliable.
(I have also used parcel2go but wouldn't wish them on my worst enemy! Absolutely hopeless, pathetic communications arrogant as hell and completely careless of my property.)"
Question:
"a compressor weighing 85Kg and measuring about 1200x795x615mm from Dorset to Yorkshire"
Response:
"We shipped a 200 tdi on a pallett with securicor omega and that only cost about 60 quid!
That was using the phone number from the www.parcels2go.co.uk website.
The website won't quote for it because it's to heavy but they will if you phone them. "
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If your battery has tapered posts, rather than flat plates with holes in, the posts are different sizes.
Obviously, I don't know how you are connecting to the battery, but if your rearrangement involves moving something from one tapered battery terminal to the other, you need to be aware of this size difference.
The clamp pictured earlier could be described as 'wrap round, with a side bolt'. The simpler clamps of this style, where the wires are attached to the clamp with screws, are marked Pos and Neg for this reason (the difference in post size).
HTH
Actually, I hope the caution is unnecessary :-)
and told me to post it up - so here it is.
I know, this again
in International Forum
Posted
Wilson Drive Shafts, of Bulwell, on the outskirts of Nottingham, last week quoted me £135, + VAT, for a Series 2 rear shaft, using wide angle UJ's, and a long spline of large diameter.
When I asked if they kept them in stock I was told they keep 'blank' shafts, with no differential UJ, and they cut the blank to the required length, then weld on the 'simple' UJ.
Wilson Drive Shafts 0115 976 1202 http://www.wilsondriveshafts.co.uk/
Naturally, they have balancing facilities.
HTH