David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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JC. Guessing game is it, I thought this was a technical forum, where fact is king!
I suppose Guessing ties in with Range Rover articles buried in the International Forum, instead of the Range Rover forum, and the same Air Suspension article filed in the Tech Archive under Misc rather than Suspension.
In future I'll know not to bother attempting to contribute, I'm obviously too far out of step.
Cheers.
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Ok, But from the original post, how did either of you 'know' that it isn't a Railko bush?
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Oh Dear, I'm going to be in trouble again!!
The shims affect the vertical spacing of the swivel pin, which bears down on a small paxolin type pad within the upper bearing. As this pad wears, so the friction built into the assembly decreases, and the effort required to turn the swivel pin decreases to below the specified limit. The damping effect of the friction becomes so small that any wheel shimmy is not damped out. To correct the effects of this wear you remove shims, which increases the clamping pressure of the pin on the pad.
However, you clearly state "the housing can move in and out about 0.5-1mm at the top of the swivel ball".
Now I take that 'in and out' to be sideways movement, not vertical movement.
If it is sideways movement then the cylinder (bearing) surrounding the pin, and possibly the pin itself, is worn. Removing shims won't cure that.
In my limited experience, overhaul kits include new cylinders and new pads, but I don't recall if the pin is included or a separate purchase.
Note that the upper bearing is a press fit in the swivel.
Perhaps not the answer you wanted.
Cheers.
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A 'second thought' makes me wonder if a separate control is neccessary.
I know that most on here only show interest in 38As to sneer at them, but I happen to know that the engines electronic control system is set up to alter the fuelling to cater for additional loads, whether electrical, such as the demand on the alternator of switching the heated screens on, or mechanical, such as the air conditioning compressor being switched on.
There is also engine load compensation, so that the engine can be left at tickover in first gear, and the car will climb a steepish hill, think 1 in 8, providing it starts on the level, and the climb will continue without the accelerator being touched.
Now the TD5 is a later engine, but I recall that there was some early criticism of the engine stalling when faced with slow speed severe climbs. This was answered by a change in ECU programming, increasing the amount of fuel that could be delivered at tickover rpm. On my only visit to the Solihull test track this was demonstrated by a test driver taking the TD5 engined Defender up a steep test hill, with 4 adults in the car. All done at tickover, without touching the throttle. Now the speed across the ground was slow, but it indicates what can be done.
Using these two examples as precedents, if I was in Land Rover, specifying the provision of kit that would put additional load on the engine, and maybe a higher crankshaft speed, then I'd just ensure that when that kit was switched on the Engine ECU was notified of the fact. The speed control would appear to be automatic, as far as driver input was concerned.
As an after-market modifier, if the need is 'just' that the engine needs to keep running, the existing load compensation may be already built in, it seems likely, to me.
A 2000 rpm crankshaft speed (say) may not be quite so accessible, but I reckon Jeremy Fearn or similar could provide a switchable map that would give that high speed. Not sure why you would need it, but that's another question.
I know a hand throttle was a supplementary question in this thread, but just for curiosity, as PTO's are now much rarer, what is the higher idle speed needed for, just hydraulic pumps?
Cheers.
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Thanks to Bush65 for his timely initial post, and to Guy H for hosting it outside the Yahoo forum.
When I first saw the post I didn't realise I needed the document, but that soon changed, and it has been extremely useful, helping me to resolve a problem within the VE pump on my 38A BMW engine.
Perhaps the Forum wouldn't want to hold the PDF in it's technical archive, but a pointer to Guy's home might be acceptable?
Thanks again.
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Three track setups are generally a 'majority vote'. If two sensors agree but the third does not, the ecu goes with the majority - and reports a fault.
Perhaps 'generally', but if we are still talking Defender TD5, then NO.
Reference the TPS output diagram I pointed to in my previous post.
Spoofing the outputs is perfectly possible - but not easy. The simplest is to set the throttle at the position you want (for fast idle), make up a box with three preset pots which mirror the values of the original - then just switch between the two with either a relay or a bi-lateral switch (on a chip).But this only gives a single preset throttle position, whereas the point about a hand throttle is that it gives the operator a fresh choice of throttle position with each task.
Simpler howver might just be a cholkcable which pulls the throttle down against an adjustable stop.Simpler, yes, but also cruder, as the cable interfers with normal throttle application.
The point of my reference to a Series based hand throttle system is that it was developed at a time when hand throttles were for everyday use with PTOs. They still allowed the driver to use the pedal if neccassary, when more power was required, but didn't let the engine stall when the pedal was released.
Sorry Simonr,
I intended this as a straightforward response posting, not a posting to 'rubbish' your comments, although someone could get that impression :-)
I am actually wondering if Ashtrans original information request has been satisfied?
Cheers.
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I guess if it was easy, we wouldn't have been asked :-)
The answer from SteveG contains nearly all the details. The earlier models used 2 track sensors, wired as described. Later models, from VIN 607225, use 3 track sensors, wired as described, PLUS the Red Green wire which goes back to the Engine ECU.
Later Engine ECUs will accept either 2 or 3 track sensors, but needs a diagnostic system like Testbook to set the parameters. This is shown in the '99 and 2002 models onwards WORKSHOP manual.
I cannot find a stated purpose for the Red Green wire, but with that colouring it must be a switched but unregulated power supply. Green would be (thinks hard) ignition controlled, and fused?
HOWEVER, by a process of elimination, this must surely be the output from track 3
Usefully (grin) there is a diagram in the WM showing the output voltages that would have to be mimicked if someone was to try installing an electrical Hand Throttle. Personally I think your options are either to use a second TPS, switching the output wires between the two, or looking closely at the hand throttle arrangement on a diesel engined Series II and mimicking that. (Basically a sophisticated mechanical connection to the original pedal).
There is no section for the Engine Management System in the 2002 Electrical Library.
Looking at the 2002 on wiring diagram, the connector ports used are B,C,D, F,G, J,K.
Table, based on SteveG's contribution.
B & J are paired, White Purple, 5 volt reference feed.
D & G are paired, Black Yellow Earth.
F is White Green, output, track one.
K is White Slate, output, track two.
C is Red Green, ?? output, track three?? The colour code indicates power in.
Time for a multimeter or scope methinks.
HTH!
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I'm with Yellow here, Series IIs do have chassis numbers, where he said. The outside face of the front spring hanger of RH front spring, where the hanger plate overlaps the chassis rail.
HTH
PS, I also think Stobbie was correct, in everything he did.
If anyone makes it easy for these people they are condoning the theft and disposal of their own car. With the personal investment we make in these things, that simply isn't a sensible decision.
Cheers.
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I'm assuming you have a petrol engine in your car.
Speak to JE Engineering in Coventry UK.
http://www.jeengineering.co.uk/
They will tell you what is available for your engine.
They have a good reputation.
Cheers.
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Geoffbeaumont,
Are you talking Classic or 38A?
Comments like "don't think the Hayneous manual is particularly helpful on this topic, from memory", and 'ECU's available on Ebay' suggest Classic, whereas the question is about a '99, therefore 38A.
I'm just clarifying, not complaining.
Cheers
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This is an oblique answer to the original question, but what you need are noise cancelling ear protectors.
These won't be the only ones, but look at http://www.noisebuster.net/nb-safety.htm
You will see they also do a unit with a radio in, although to be honest, this seems like self-induced Tinnitus to me.
Other people, like Bose, sell more upmarket versions, sized, styled and priced for different circumstances, such as travelling by airline.
I have a set, made by someone I forget, and bought from UK Maplin, for use in the office, to cut down the backgroung noise inherent in an open plan office. Very useful when I'm on long Audio Conferance calls.
The technology does seem like 'magic' or even snake oil, but it does work. Note that these units are powered, the anti-noise generator needs a battery.
Good Luck.
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Well, all clear so far :-)
Unless someone comes up with a Series II based solution, we need to discover what the difference is between the "series 3 bellhousing and clutch set up" and the SII arrangement.
I guess we are mostly interested in the seal around the input shaft, but the thought occurs that surely this seal is in the box, not the bell housing?
This begs two questions, in what way is "series 3 bellhousing and clutch set up" the answer to oil leaking round the input shaft?
Is "series 3 bellhousing and clutch set up" a valid solution?
Just ideas, I don't have a SIII parts manual available.
Cheers.
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Just a couple of thoughts.
Now the vehicle is almost fully loaded, have you put it on a weighbridge to establish axle weights?
I guess not, as otherwise you'd have mentioned it in your otherwise comprehensive first post.
I suspect the results would guide you, and more certainly your spring supplier, in what style of spring is right for your purposes.
Secondly, and others may care to voice their disagreement, there seeems to be a lot of exposed thread on those spring to axle U bolts. Squashing the thread against a rock is a minor inconveinience, bending the section against a rock could seriously spoil your day when it comes to changing a spring.
I am assuming that anyone travelling in places like Morroco should consider changing a spring as a 'not unexpected' event. After choosing the springs, I'd be tempted to run a second (but plain) nut up against the locking nut, then cutting off all the exposed thread. This way you protect the exposed thread, and have the locknut available for when the locking nut looses it's 'lock' after several re-uses.
As I say, just thoughts. I have never wanted to do what you are doing anyway, so have no directly relevant previous experience to draw on.
Good Luck.
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I suspect the 'market' comprises those people wishing to pull loads onto the bed of a trailer or flatback lorry.
Car recovery springs to mind, where even if we derate from 6000lb Absolute maximum to 3000lb Working maximum it would seem OK to pull a broken car onto the loadbed.
The lorry world would have the 24V available.
Prices I can't give, but now try searches in various places looking for winches for this pupose, to find if what you have fits, and what others ask for.
Good Luck.
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How many people / vehicles would you be looking to accomodate?
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They have kept the Ebay shop open.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Difflock4x4
Whoops, I spoke too soon. I saw the 5000 items, then looked more closely and saw it's a 'selected' list of 9, yes nine items.
Could go either way, selling off the remaining stock bit by bit, or haven't yet built up the full list.
The latter sounds unplanned, which isn't a way to run a business, and unlike the impression they give from their own site.
I guess it's Wait and See.
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Do you 'need' a small format solution, like a PDA?
Probably essential if you are using the map while walking, but for in-car use (or leaning on the bonnet discussing a route) then I'd have thought a tablet PC with a 10" screen, a bluetooth dongle, and a modern bluetoothed GPS receiver, would have you fixed, for a lot less money and a much more viewable screen.
Almost anyone can navigate as the GPS pointer shows them where they are, so they can call up junctions, whatever.
I haven't got there yet, but a work colleague says even his wife is was enthusing about being able to map read (Memory Map) with this setup. It's what I'm going for as the gateopener in our Green Lane expeditions (roll on Saturday!).
Just an alternative, suggested without knowing the full planned circumstances of use.
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If it helps, a Senior Member on SayNoTo0870 posted:
"In my experience if it is about sales companies are not fussed about giving out their geog numbers. A direct email enquiry resulted in the following information:
Their 0870 number gets diverted to a geographic number in Ireland:
00353 74 937 0089
(which can be called for ½p/min via one of the 0844 access numbers on Martin Lewis' site http://callchecker.moneysavingexpert.com/i...ker/index.php.)
and Paul Dutton's mobile number is:
REMOVED
Note the rider from that site:
"... posts are NOT endorsed by SAYNOTO0870.COM, please exercise due caution when acting on any info from here."
Cheers.
Mobile phone number removed by Mog at the request of Paul Dutton
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If I've understood correctly, this is an anti-tramp bar, or at least that's what they were called when I bought some to go on a leaf sprung car.
Without them the leaves distorted and the axle 'tramped' as the power was put down.
But whatever, if you are happy with anti-wrap, that's OK.
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I see Les, that you will go to 'any' lengths to get me to post pictures on this blessed site!!
Seriously, thanks for your efforts with the camera and spanners.
I think I'm fully booked this weekend, and the 38A needs some TLC, so it may be sometime before I can rerun the engine. I've just had a quick look, and it's only surface dirt, which might actually help me spot the origin, if I happen to be looking in almost the right place soon after starting the engine.
If it doesn't, I'll clean then dry the pump, and try again.
Thanks again.
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A blatant second post, the original is in Classifieds, placed there just in case someone had such a pump for sale.
It seems not, so I've reworded the topic, and will just look for what advice is available.
The High Pressure Diesel Fuel Injection pump on a 12J (2.5) engine is leaking fuel at the rate of about 1 drop per second while the engine is running. I cannot see exactly where it's leaking from, the closest I can get to is halfway along the body, on the side closest to the engine block.
I've no prior experience with these devices, so it might be a simple failure, with a simple repair, or not.
I'm not sure whether to try and pick up a 'known' good one from somewhere (any suggestions?),
or go to someone like 'addocks to see what they can offer,
or have 'my' pump overhauled.
Officially it hasn't done an inter-galactic mileage so shouldn't be worn out, but the evidence is that the PO ran it like this for some time. He didn't do many miles, so any repair cost wasn't justified by the fuel saving. Mind you, he probably didn't realise that washing the front propshaft UJ in diesel is a good way of knackering it.
Anyway, suggestions on the best way forward will be gratefully received.
Cheers.
In case it doesn't say in my profile, I'm in Derbyshire, about 5 miles from Paddocks, as it happens.
I also intend going to the Peterborough show, in another vehicle, on Sat 9th Sept.
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Dated 1st August this is shown in the Gallery, but not in the Products.
http://www.exactfabrication.co.uk/show_photo.php?id_nws=74
It's not clear to me whether the door attachment is just to stabilise the carrier when closed, and thus will fit a drop down tailgate, or whether the door attachment is to enable the door and carrier to open as one, in which case the hinge actions will conflict :-)
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I've just recalled another recent reference, although you might have to work a bit harder to get hold of them, as they are in South Africa.
Expected retail price in SA is R900 or about £63.
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I was going to suggest S P A gauges, but as dual gauges (EGT + Boost Pressure, or Intercooler In / Out gauges) I think they are a tad expensive.
Perhaps it's buying the two in one go that makes it seem like that, but even so, the final figure is a bit off-putting!!
Heated front screen earth location?
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
The Screen Earth is E199, and it's location is described as centre rear of engine compartment.
More literally, if you look at the windscreen wiper pivot that is nearest the centre of the car, the earth connection is between that and the rubber seal at the rear of the engine bay. Yes, you have to remove that plastic moulding, so now is the time to change the plenum foam if it's looking manky.
I've never had to look for this, so that information is just 'by the book'.
Before going that far, I suggest checking the relays.
Relay 5 operates, to an earth from the HEVAC panel (which is also the HEVAC ECU). This powers the LH half of the screen, and relay 4. Relay 4 powers the RH side of the screen. The engine needs to be running as each half should take about 25A.
Door mirrors not heating, hmmm, I suspect a lot of people don't notice. The wiring connectors hidden in the A pillars between the windscreen and the floor have a bad press for getting wet and corroded.
There is also an outstation mounted on each door through which current passes, so that's another check point.
You'll be after a RAVE CD about now. The Tech Archive on this site has a link to a site.
Cheers.