David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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I agree with bishbosh.
I'll add that people should learn to keep their own personal contacts list.
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Look for a battery number, then both Google and ebay search on that battery number.
I was amazed at how 'common' the special Toshiba battery was for my still camera. Apparently used by lot's of kit from lots of different manufacturers.
I'm not familiar with the Snap-on Nut Runner, but you may not be as lucky as I was, as these 12 or 18v batteries tend to be assembled from cells welded together, so it's tricky to buy the individual cells and build your own.
I did 'build my own' when I needed a replacement battery for a Makita drill, but I soon saw the error of my ways and bought an open market replacement.
HTH
PS, If you do buy a replacement that is not Snap-on branded, assume you will end up buying directly from Hong Kong or China. The branded part will still have come from Asia, but just not as directly.
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"Have checked the documents, and it is a 1957 serie II. Collector's item?"
If you want to create a verifiable provenance, that will withstand future scrutiny, and may be a financial asset, I'd say you have to ask the BMIHT at Gaydon, at least for a letter if not an (expensive) certificate.
Alternatively, ask the appropriate officer at the Series 2 Club, although you may have to join to avail yourself of this service.
If you use the VIN on the documentation you have, or the easy to read plate in the vehicle, you are taking a slight gamble. Ideally you want the VIN off the leading outside spring hanger of the front RH spring, although this isn't always obvious. requiring scraping to remove underseal and surface rust, plus polishing with a wire brush, to make the stamped in number distinguishable.
HTH
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Responding to your 'first Landy' comment.
Air Lock.
I tend to agree with this as the heater isn't working. The lack of coolant in the system may also contribute to the high load overheating.
It's possible muck has been dislodged and is caught in the narrow restriction caused by the heater tap. Remove the tap and clean the internal passage way. A small wire brush sold for plumbers to clean the internals of copper pipe may be useful here. B&Q, Wickes, etc, should supply.
With the engine cold, leave the radiator cap in place but open the highest hose to metal joint in the system, this is probably one of the heater pipes. Put a funnel in the hose end and Slowly pour in coolant. Slowly should allow the air to come out as well as coolant flow in. Eventually coolant will come out of the metal pipe you took the hose off. Reconnect the hose and that should get the heater working.
If it doesn't get as hot, or takes it's time warming up, get the engine hot and equip yourself with heavy waterproof gloves (not the skinny latex / nitrile ones). Leave the cap in place and start to open the same joint. Beware the pressure will force some hot coolant as well as hot air out. When it seems the flow is all coolant (perhaps after a couple of seconds) reclose the joint. When the engine cools down, top up as required.
If the heater works for a couple of days, then stops, repeat the air bleed process, but it's an indication air is getting into the cooling system, probably from a blown headgasket, but do recheck any disturbed connections for leaks.
Radiator cleaning.
I was taught (but I don't do mud plugging) that a power jet wash was not good for the external cleaning of radiators. Neither was attacking the radiator from the easy side (the front).
Working from the front pushes muck further back into the core, where the jet can't get to it, and the power of the jet will bend over the fins, further preventing access of both cleaning water and air.
This time I'd take out the radiator and just use mains water pressure from the rear. As it's a new to you vehicle this extra work will enable you to gain a good idea of the physical condition of the fins etc. Take the opportunity to straighten bent fins, and also reverse flush the radiator internally.
If this extra cleaning doesn't put you off mud plugging, consider making up a lance that will fit on the garden hose, go down between the engine and the radiator, and squirt water out sideways. I'm thinking a 15mm copper pipe, closed off at one end, with a slot cut in one side about a inch from the closed end. After the slot is cut with a hacksaw, 1/3 to 1/2 way through the pipe, squeeze the pipe around the area of the cut to make the pipe oval. This will leave the slot pointing one way. Now you can clean the radiator from the rear without damaging the fins.
Just think how lucky you are with the weather. November, it 'ought' to be freezing when playing with all this water.
Have fun.
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Yes Mo, I expected to have my 'witty' response swamped by other contributions all extolling the virtues of steel springs. Unfortunately they haven't materialised.
Good Luck.
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My Controls, Options, Board Settings.
This is the place to kill both Avatars and Signatures, they have separate controls.
White90 called it a last option.
For me it's a first option, as I consider them a total waste of screen real estate.
Obviously essential on a forum specialising in Vanity posts, but this isn't one of those, is it?
Of course your views can differ, just so long as I can switch them off :-))
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Rover Renovations Set the currency box in the top RH corner to British Pounds, then start to browse after the screen refresh.
That is what you wanted really, wasn't it?
:-))
(On 28th October 2007 a UK resident quoted typical prices:
"Just an annual MOT test in the UK would cost you $120 & that's if everything is 100%.
If they fail the car, on something like a couple of radious arm bushes & a retest fee, the bill would be approx $700 aus.
Cigarettes are $14 for twenty. petrol/diesel is approx $9 a gallon. "
Rover Renovations owner responded:
"no wonder I"m shipping so much to the UK, it only costs pennies right now...").
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php...ghlight=#141260 if you want the complete thread.
Cheers.
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From post 3 -- "2.5 NA crank pulley nut 41mm".
When this bolt incorporates the dog for the starting handle the size is 1+11/16"AF.
43 mm appears to be the nearest Metric size
Expect this socket to be 3/4" drive.
For the 38A Range Rover:
R380 5 Speed Gearbox
Drain plug 32mm + Copper Washer, 25mm ID x 32mm OD,
Fill plug 55 Torx (Tx)
Borg Warner Chain Transfer Box
Fill and Drain plug 13mm Female square
Axle differentials
Fill and Drain plugs 13mm Female Square
Glow Plugs
Glow tube plugs - one pole, 25x6mm
Voltage : 11
Thread : M12x1,25
Spanner width (AF) : 12 mm.
Diesel AC Compressor belt tensioner
13mm AF Spanner
10mm AF Allen key. Turn Clockwise.
Torx bit list
TX40 - Ball Joints on Drag link and Tie bar.
Also Front seat base to runners.
TX45 - Front Seat Runners to bodyshell.
TX55 - R380 5 Speed Gearbox Fill Plug.
Wheel Nuts 27mm 80 lbf-ft
Brakes
Caliper Pin Bolts, Front & Rear 12mm AF 22 lbf-ft
Front Caliper to hub bolts 19mm 12 point 122 lbf-ft
Rear Caliper to hub bolts 13mm 12 point 74 lbf-ft
Brake Disc to hub screws No4 Pozidrive. 18 lbf-ft
O Rings
Water pump
Water pump O ring 68mm x 6mmCS
Heater Core O rings.
22 mm ID by 2.5 mm thickness.
Use VITON if possible. Has better high temp resistance than the NBR-rubber (Nitrile?) used by LR.
EAS
Lines to/from the air dryer are 8mm,
to the air springs 6 mm,
and the venting line is 4 mm.
O-rings are those ID, and are 2.5 mm thick.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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I applaud the idea, but, if you are going to the trouble ...
Microcat has it right, it's a Screw, not a Bolt.
At 5/8" long the difference is perhaps insignificant, and in fact it may be very difficult to get a Bolt at that length, but I'm in favour of starting with a high standard.
:-))
I was going to contribute some information I've collected, but on closer examination it fits in the pinned 'Tool Sizes' thread.
I note that the Tools Sizes thread also contains some thread information, even the information Orange requested here, BUT it says 's in Post 8, 3/8" UNC, which really needs correcting, based on the Microcat print.
The one thread size I have noted is the Glow Plugs on a BMW 6 cylinder engine (38A Range Rover), which is Thread : M12x1,25 and takes a 12mm AF spanner.
As well as spanner / fastener styles I've also found it useful to collect sizes of O rings used to seal pipes, thermostat housings, etc, but again 38A usage, and calling for a third section.
So, Moderators, over to you, do you want to separate out the thread information, and the O ring / copper sealing washer information, or do you want it all in the 'Tool Sizes' thread?
:-))
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Just as a matter of interest, I use an ITG oiled foam filter in the standard 38A Range Rover air box, and my understanding is that they don't need cleaning and re-oiling, apart from the removal of any leaves etc stuck to the outside.
I did ring the manufacturer and was told that it was possible to clean and re-oil, but I'd find it a right pain to clean, and I'd never oil it to the same standard the production process used.
I can't be bothered to go and look for 'my' figures, but after not touching it for several service intervals it looked really disgustingly dirty, so I bought a new one, and it made absolutely no difference to the engine performance, from which I concluded my old one was still flowing enough for my engine.
Of course, as my filter is choosen for physical size rather air flow, it could be argued that the filter is vastly over-specified in flow terms.
I moved away from a re-oilable filter, K+N in my case, as I felt I could never gurantee I had reoiled it correctly, so could not rely on either high flow or good filtration, one of then was bound to be wrong.
I suggest you ring the ITG manufacturer and get his view, ISTR he mentioned pressure drop across the filter as being the only true measurement of whether a filter is still servicable, and he did quote figures, but as I've no means of measuring them I'm afraid I've lost them.
Bottom Line, I'd happily fit an ITG on another engine, I still wouldn't clean and re-oil.
Cheers.
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Diesel Jim - Oil Pressure switch.
My view of the diagram is that the terminal, and therefore White/Brown wire, on the oil pressure switch is at full Earth when the engine is not running, not 12v as your reply indicates.
When the engine is running, and the oil pressure switch operates, the wire has a high resistance 12volt condition, coming from behind the warning light.
Thus I would NEVER put full +ve 12 volts on the OP timer contact.
I agree, the purpose of the OP connection is to prevent the heated screen operating until the engine is running (and the alternator can supply the electrical load).
Disabling this function, by leaving the OP terminal unconnected would NOT enable the timer to 'work properly', as an important safety feature is missing. Yes, the screen would probably heat, but that is not a full definition of 'working properly'.
Why omit the safety feature and leave JST with a trap to fall into? For the sake of one connection, why not do the job correctly?
JST - Screen Connections.
I'd double check whether you have 2 or 4 connections. Typically, modern screens are so powerful that they are split in two halves, switched and fused seperately. I don't know if you are looking at the actual screen, or some preinstalled wiring, but on the screen, two connections may appear close together, centre lower or centre upper edge, with two single connections at the outside corners, again either upper or lower.
If your screen really does only have two connections then I'd put the relay outputs in parallel, but by all means just use one of those shown in the diagram. This is because, by definition, if only two screen connections exist, the screen isn't powerful enough to require two - see my fusing comments.
For fusing you should contact the screen supplier, but I strongly suspect you do not have wiring in the car to take 50 amps to the windscreen, irrespective of the fuse, so I'd stick to a single 25 or 30 amp fuse. (My 38A uses two 30 amp fuses)
HTH
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I've used JP Exhausts in Macclesfield a couple of times, and would endorse the recommendation.
None of this is going to be cheap, but JP did drop the actual price from the guide price after they had installed the last system I had, principally because I had specified a silencer to NOT be included.
The point here is not the custom design spec, I took that for granted, but that I didn't ask for a price reduction, they just gave it.
That system is still in daily use, from June 2001, about 80k miles.
I'll go back for one on another vehicle, just as soon as it's roadworthy.
HTH
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Guy H,
Thanks for the positives about ASM, that does make it more reassuring, but as you see, I still haven't motivated myself to do the deal.
Geoff,
"Personally selling tactics like the above ...." etc.
Thankyou I was beginning to think I was the only one.
Yes, I quite like the touchscreen, even if in the pub it just gets used to slide the display around as people say '... I meant this lane ...'. The tablet format just makes it easier to pass across the table, and as a gate opener it makes it easier to just slot the screen down the side of the seat, or pass to the driver, while I get out and get physical.
SteveG,
I had noticed that you appeared to have some sort of convertible fitted, so thankyou for the user report.
I haven't bought a 3500, but I haven't bought an alternative either, perhaps mainly because I haven't found an alternative source. As my comments have indicated I'm still reluctant to reward such selling tactics.
When it comes down to it, this is a vanity purchase, not a 'must have', and I guess this is why I don't feel like the £700 option, although that is a good price. For me, going over £300 was extravagent!!
Thankyou all.
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I've been reminded that this could be just a wheel imbalance making itself felt.
Checks are often free!!
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Your Workshop Manual definately can, both give you the answer, a method, and the figures to expect.
Specifically, Range Rover Classic, Section 41, Transfer box, Overhaul.
Viscous unit - rolling resistance
Bench check
NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 °C.
9. Secure the output shaft in a vice fitted with soft jaws, gripping the shaft on the drive flange splines.
10. With the viscous unit still installed in the front output housing place the assembly on the rear output shaft spline.
11. Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.
12. If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm,to output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25° - 30°. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.
HTH
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Orgasmic farmer, your experience mirrors my thoughts about what might happen, with some other seller of course.
So not so OT as you thought!!
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I would NOT go for the steering damper straight away, as changing that only hides the original problem, if it effects any improvement at all.
The steering wheel in the 38A should not shimmy or shake at all, even without a damper in place, and that includes dropping a wheel in gutter drains etc.
The problem is most likely worn ball joints in either the drag link or the track rod.
Note that on both these, one of the ball joints is swaged into the link / rod, so changing the ball joint means changing the rod / link. The only problem with this is the price.
What you do next depends on who is doing the fine analysis and repair, you or a paid mechanic.
If you, have you ever successfully freed off the ball joints in a Classic Range Rover tie rod?
If you have, you will know they can be a severe pain to break the corrosion around the adjuster.
With the 38A, as you have to buy the link / rod anyway, you might as well buy a complete unit, which includes the adjuster. It does cost a bit more, but makes the job a lot easier. If you are paying for a mechanics time it is definately better to buy the complete unit(s).
TBH, the best advice is to change both units at the same time, unless you know one has already been changed within the last two years (and assuming it tests OK).
As a generalisation, the joint where the drag link fastens to the steering arm wears most, followed by the one at the other (nearside) end of the drag link, followed by the nearside end of the tie rod, followed by the offside end of the tie rod.
Do check your Dealer for prices, don't just assume 'addocks, Rimmers, etc, will be cheaper, especially when quality is taken into account.
HTH.
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Well that didn't pan out quite as I expected, but no matter.
Pugwash,
I think it's probably good for the soul to occasionally be told I'm silly.
No, I do.
Really.
:-)
I did make a mistake refering to variable postage. What I was trying to get across was 'always' having to check the possibility of excessive postage, where the seller is obviously trying to ensure he gets his money, whatever the Auction price. £25.00 for a laptop? Marginally high, but just acceptable, in my book.
"most of the laptops bought and sold in the world are for business purposes"
Really? Off Ebay? (Which is this context). You make a slightly contentious statement I feel, but as neither of us have quoted any supporting evidence I think we will just have to accept different opinions exist.
"if you asked a question close to the closing time"
Ok, I didn't detail the times in my post, but for clarity, questions were copied by Ebay to my Mail Inbox at:
Wednesday 17th, 13.46
Thursday 18th, 12.55
Both during the working day, with about 24 hours between them, but also allowing evening access, if it's a second income stream.
Auction ends Thursday 18th 21.00.
I think he had enough time to respond, especially given that he has a sizable Ebay operation.
"for £260 i don't think you could have gone wrong to be honest!"
OK, I'll accept that as a viable comment. You may be right.
The £333.70 may also be acceptable, as it includes a freestanding Toshiba DVD player / CDRW as well.
I don't want to 'cut off my nose to spite my face', but I'm not to keen on being taken for granted as a mug, who can be easily suckered in to bid a low but incorrect price.
I didn't intend the post on this forum to be read as an 'anti-asmdirect' moan, but I suppose it says a lot that it came across as a whinge.
rtbarton,
Thankyou for the research.
"Where a catalogue could be used by both trade and retail then inclusive prices should be quoted, and optionally exclusive prices.".
I don't think the Ebay adverts of the 'Add VAT' school conform to that.
Interesting to see that the probable seller to imspanners practises the same distortion.
I suspect http://preview.tinyurl.com/2j8jxy is a valid current link to the same or a similar seller.
I've just fitted a 10.4" screen to the built-in car computer, and while it's an awful lot better that the 8" it replaced, for a social PC I'd rather like a larger screen.
Thanks to you all.
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I've decided that I really want a Convertible PC, one that can be a conventional Laptop, or a Tablet (with Touchscreen).
It does have to be second hand, from a price point of view, but something designed for Windows 98 or 2000 is older than I'm comfortable with. I'd expect Windows XP Tablet edition, and I want at least a 12" screen, rather than a 10.4".
What sources of supply would people recommend?
I've been looking at Ebay, and the supplier ASMdirect has many items available, sometimes Buy it Now, sometimes for auction.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2w3vhs is a recent auction example.
I'm beginning to think I don't want to give him business.
Adding VAT to a bid puts me off, as I regard it as misleading (I thought quoting Non-VAT prices for Retail items wasn't allowed any more, or is that just in magazines?).
It's bad enough having to add the variable postage to the bid amount, but VAT as well just makes that aspect worse.
In addition, with that particular advert, the case is damaged 'near the lid lock'. He has included a picture, but it's too dark to see the detail, so I 'Asked the Seller a Question' to find out if the lid latch actually worked.
No Reply, so I asked again, politely.
No Reply, so I assumed it didn't work, he just didn't want to admit the damage was more than cosmetic.
I adjusted my bidding appropriately, and never got above reserve.
It may have been worth the £199 achieved (that's £262 total), but I asked myself, Do I really want to reward a Dealer using these tactics with business? (Doesn't quote close to the paying price, and doesn't reply to enquiries).
The answer is no, even though the simple route is to buy one of his Buy It Now options at £259 bid (£333.70 Total).
http://preview.tinyurl.com/36a8f7
So, anyone upgrading, or can recommend a favourite supplier?
Thanks.
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As you are missing the handbook, as a double check, the water in fuel warning light is the last but one in the lower strip (the last being a choke warning light which will be blank in your installation). The water in fuel light is underneath the ABS warning light.
The text in the book says:
"Fuel filter - AMBER*
Illuminates as a bulb check when the starter switch is turned to position ‘II’ and extinguishes after 3 seconds approximately. If the light illuminates while driving, this indicates the presence of excessive amounts of water in the fuel. You may continue driving but should seek qualified assistance at the earliest convenient
time.".
I'd unscrew the drain on the bottom of the filter and empty the contents. When switching on to restart, pause a few seconds between switching on and triggering the starter, to give time for the filter to refill.
The filters can 'fill' with water to the extent the water will reach the engine, causing a misfire.
You really don't want water passing through your injectors, any injectors, but especially TD5 ones.
In the handbook, under Owner Maintenance, Fuel System, Fuel Filter (TD5) it says "To drain:
Slacken off the drain plug (arrowed in the lower illustration) to allow any water to drain off.
Retighten the plug as soon as pure diesel is emitted.".
It's up to you if you capture the contents in a clear container, to see if it separates after standing, or whether you just run to waste, counting 1 to 10, then retighten.
Cheers.
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"Or just buy a 12V DC - DC PSU with switching capabilities, off the shelf."
Links?
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I realised after posting that I had actually gone way Off Topic. My mistake.
The question was about mounting a (medium sized laptop) PC in a Defender (Dash Mount).
I wrote about a laptop PC, but it's in a 38A, which is so far remote from a Defender that the solution doesn't apply.
Benny,
Yes I use a Laptop, a fairly small Dell. Small helped with the packaging, but it was actually a fortuitous acquisition when a colleague left work, not a deliberate purchase. If you can't find space for a laptop, then try a different format, but I think what is common to all the installations is that there is a surprising amount of time, both in planning and execution, in mounting a PC in a car. Thus going for a Re-build PC is just adding to the time and effort to be invested before you can start using the PC.
Personally I would use a laptop, as near to standard as possible.
If you want to hide it away, as the mention of LINITX suggests, then it can go 'anywhere', and it's mainly the Touchscreen you have to mount, but in total this can be more complication than the floor / tunnel post mount solutions used above, for laptops.
RAM mounts have a good name, and are currently a LOT cheaper in the UK than they were when I started on this game.
You are looking to spend money elsewhere, so that is another justification for using a simple plain unmodified laptop. Look at how many people use them, and hard drives etc survive, so you don't need a ToughBook or other extreme design.
My installation is deliberately wired into the vehicle sensors, but I suspect most people only need Power and GPS (via hardwired lead or Bluetooth). The power regulation within Laptops is pretty damn good. The small 12 volt DC to DC converters only need to be within a volt or so and the Laptop will handle it OK.
HTH.
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I happened to have chosen the Docking Station approach.
While the Docking Station makes it relatively easy to remove the PC to the house for programming work it does bring the problem of a larger footprint to accomodate. I suppose the other distinctive feature is that the PC is hidden. The biggest disadvantage is the remote screen, as 10" seems to be the largest touchscreen that is financially viable. Currently I have an 8" installed, but a 10" in the box waiting for a mounting modification.
I should point out that as well as power, I have connections via the parallel port, serial port, and sound input port to the car. Once a hidden PC installation is decided upon, then there is the VGA to a remote screen, and USB connections to keyboard, Bluetooth dongle, WiFi card / aerial, and memory stick.
The main justification for such an approach is the automatic switch on and switch off, which obviously takes some creative circuit design and wiring. The PC normally lives in the car full time, and the remote screen folds flat, to be less obvious when parked up.
I guess I'm lucky, in that I don't seem to park in 'dodgy' areas.
I don't consider my approach better, just different. Even reviewing the arrangements in the rest of the thread, I still think MY requirements are best met with a (more complex) permanent installation, rather than carrying the PC back and forth for every trip.
Cheers
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You don't need the clutch or brake pedal operated, in fact, I suspect one or both will inhibit the change.
You mention the button on the dash, so that makes it a manual gearbox.
"Select Neutral" is the only error message the system has been programmed with, so even when it isn't strictly accurate, that's what you get.
This is another recent thread about the Transfer box, so try follwing the hints and actions in there.
http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=364412.0
BTW, you will need the RAVE CD (Mechanical and Electrical Workshop Manuals) if you haven't already got it. There is a link in the Tech Archive to a source.
Cheers, and welcome to the world of 'real' Land Rovers.
a £40,000 series 2
in International Forum
Posted
I considered it a pimping auction for a face to face with Sharon Stone (where you also got to take away an old Land Rover as a memento)?
Well there were 11 bidders, and the winner will be spending $82,100 for the privilege.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/33tacw
BTW, if you didn't watch the video included in the advert, then I advise you that it's either hilariously funny, or
cringe makingly awful.
Treat it as funny, it's easier on the blood pressure.
Just don't believe it has any relevance to the real world life that I, and possibly you, experience every day.
Cheers.