David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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If yours is a petrol engine, then it might be the compressor clutch failing to engage, but otherwise, yes, have it re-gassed.
If the airflow seems a little weak, even when you have manually increased the fan speed, then change the twin air filters. New they are white.
HTH
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You can buy a mechanical key from a Dealer, and possibly other sources, have it cut to match the remote + mechanical key you have. This is fine for occasional or emergency use, but I would point out that there is only one key operated lock on the car, and it was never designed for daily use.
You can buy a new remote from the Dealer, and ONLY the Dealer, and have him supply a new blade, cut to match your existing. This is the ONLY way to get a new functioning remote. You cannot re-code someone else's remote to match your existing remote.
There is another snag, of the four different remotes you can buy for any single car, you cannot have duplicates, so you need to decide if you have a Key 1, or a Key 2 (these being the originals). You might be able to tell by the colour, but I've been told that later replacements were not colour coded, so then you have to guess. This assumes the label on the fob has fallen off. Before it did, I engraved mine with the numbers.
Read the rest here:
http://www.rangie.com/articles_model.php?i...9&modelId=2
HTH
Note the other keyfob related articles on that site.
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"if there is anything else that anyone wants bought in from the states in the same shipment then i would be happy to bing some more stuff in as long as you aer happy to pay yuor portion of shipping/duty."
That statement covers me, but I don't know how far to push your tolerance.
Let's be a little more specific, there are two tool items I want from Habour Freight, and one 'bling' item from Britelyt.
Both of them will import into the UK, but the shipping charges make it uneconomic.
If they were ordered to an address in the USA, then shipped as a miscellaneous mixture, probably via slow transport rather than a high-speed high-cost option (all that these vendors offer), then the shipping charges would be severly reduced.
I'm not looking to evade Customs and VAT, which is a lottery anyway, although ISTR that VAT is payable on Shipping charges, then Customs on the total (Goods + Shipping + VAT). I'm certain at some stage you pay tax on tax. If the Shipping is reduced then the taxation charges are reduced.
After that we just have to 'worry' about transport from Taunton to Derbyshire, but as I've family in your neck of the woods, and more family half way between, that is probably a problem I can solve within the family.
Anyway, were you going to buy to a US address, then ship privately? Otherwise I don't see the benefit.
And by 'anything else' did you mean from other suppliers, or just from Rockstompers?
Cheers, and sorry for the headache :-)
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Derbyshire is not anywhere on your path, so I can't help there.
I've never had a Classic RR, so am not intimate with any of the greasy bits, but I'd be rather surprised if the nuts / studs are the same. We know the PCD of the studs is smaller on the 38A, and wheels are generally wider, so I'd expect bigger studs / nuts on the 38A.
To compare with the Classic wheelnuts you have, I'd say the 38A stud is 14mm in diameter (the hole in the nut is 12mm ID), and the sleeve section of the nut (that fits in the wheel) is 29mm dia.
If you only need four, then why not just run each wheel with only 4 nuts? I reckon that would be safe enough, especially as Ben would be sensitised to any strange feelings that might be caused if one of the remaining 4 loosened slightly.
Disco II nuts ARE the same as 38A nuts, because that's where I got my replacements from, via eBay.
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Compressed air then, and hope you can hear the leaks.
Sure, you are going to introduce moisture, but you are going to do that when you open the system to replace the leaking seals / corroded condenser.
You've left it so long (you don't say how long, but it's some time isn't it?) that the seals will have dried out anyway.
In future, pick a better quality monkey. Sometimes it's wiser to pay for a good service, not the cheapskate one you chose first time around.
Sorry, but no-one here can help you if you won't help yourself :-(
I know, unwelcome news, it always gets the messenger shot.
Cheers
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'Anything' is only DIY if you have the right kit to hand. When you have to buy the tools then you have to take into account how often you might use the tools, or what the inconvenience factor will be of not having the tool.
When my A/C has been done, while I watch, the initial leak test is by nitrogen pressure, and sometimes you can hear the nitrogen leaking out. Post installation of the new condenser (it's always been a corroded condenser), the test is by vacuum.
Two values of the vacuum, any moisture inside the system boils off and is extracted, and once the pump is switched off, we wait to see the vacuum is held, thus proving there is no leaking seals.
Thus if you already have a Mityvac then you might (given suitable connectors), be able to DIY a vacuum test.
Last time, I changed the condenser (the system had emptied itself), and I had a local mobile guy come round to the house. This means you may save some money - condensers are available from ebay shops, but first find your local man and ensure he is happy to co-operate.
Paying in three stages spreads the financial load :-)
Pay for the pressure test and finding the leak.
Pay for the condenser.
Pay for the recharge.
Cheers.
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Les Henson :"Any sparkies use this website?"
Just occasionally.
:-))
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Two separate queries in one thread; plenty of scope for confusion,
Ric,
You don't say but I'll guess your car has one of the V8s in, as the lazy clutch fault affects those more than the Diesels
There are two cures for a lazy AC clutch, one is low voltage, the other is wear.
I don't recall what permanent cure LR created for the low voltage, but the Technical Bulletin solution involved fitting an additional relay, number 9 in the fuse box I think.
To counteract the wear in the clutch, shims can be removed to put the two halves of the clutch closer together.
I don't run a petrol, but ISTR the repair can be done in situ, without draining the AC system.
If you are going to DIY you need the manuals. Green Oval.com is the source. Those CDs have the Technical Bulletins on them so you can at least read up about the problem first hand.
If you want experience from others, look on Rangerovers.net, both on the main site and the 4.0/ 4.6 Forum. Too many Yanks for my taste (and patience) but there are Europeans there as well so you can get some sensible answers.
Beng,
Never worked since you got it - so anything and everything could be wrong.
Pound to a penny it's out of refrigerant, so that's the first thing to fix. Lack of refrigerant means lack of pressure, so the clutch operate circuit is broken by the pressure switch. The mosty common cause a refrigerant leakage is a corroded condensers, the radiator type thing in front of the engine radiator. To see this at all closely you MUST take off both the grill AND the panel above the fans. Don't tiddle about with a torch peering through small spaces. Look for obvious corrosion, and perhaps a green staining if it was filled with a leak indicator. You can change these yourself, condensers are available on ebay, but if you haven't done one before, and you are a bit of a novice, perhaps you should leave it to an AC man the first time. Bear in mind you can expect to spend 200 to 250 GBP to have it fixed. Maybe more if someone stings you for a new Drier.
There are other causes of failure, like pressure switches and blend motors, but you need to check there is refrigerant in the system first. BTW, it's R134, there is a sticker above one of the headlights to confirm this, so you don't have to worry about additional problems caused by changing refrigerant.
As with Ric, browse Rangerovers.net for details of other things that go wrong. I doubt there will be much on the main site about diesel engined models, but some of the Europeans in the Forum run them.
Cheers
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I don't run a 38A V8 myself, so can't help directly.
I suggest you go to the 4.0 / 4.6 Forum on www.Rangerovers.net and search / ask there.
The Forum has too many Americans of the wrong sort, but also a good few Europeans, UK as well as France, Belgium, etc.
As you did in your first post here, drop in a reference to where you are and someone from the same Continent will probably pick up your query in a show of solidarity.
Good Luck.
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I'm seeking to contact the owner of MDH 998E, a 2 door variant of the Carmichael FT6 Fire engine.
The picture comes from http://www.iacservices.co.uk/landrover/s3f...e_otherlrfe.htm and scroll down.
Last seen, possibly, at Peterborough, possibly 2004.
DVLA record it as in tax, but Land Rovers Reunited don't list it at all.
I'm asking because I have a similar vehicle.
Similar in that it's a Carmichael FT6 2 door.
Dissimilar in that mine is tatty, overpainted Deep Bronze Green, has no Fire Service equipment, and is in repair at the moment.
Mine is registered on the Series 2 Club Database.
I'll wait awhile, then if there is no response here I'll try the Series Forum.
Thanks
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I'm looking for a diesel powered stove, as my LR is diesel powered, and want the capability to do a bit more than boil water.
If boiling water was the only concern I'd use a Kelly Kettle, on the basis that I can use paper shreddings to start it, obtain bigger lumps of fuel wherever I am stopped (in the UK, which is all I'm interrested in) and promote the fire (if needed) by soaking the twigs etc in diesel.
I've seen the Jetboil adverts, and it seems a good system. I've seen reports from users, including one where some gal goes to the trouble of preparing dry meals of many varieties, then Jet boils them into a tasty and sustaining mush, but she was backpacking. I can afford to carry a little more weight.
Primarily it's the Britelyt burning diesel I'm interested in.
Secondly I'm interested in any other one or two burner stove using Diesel.
I am NOT interested in gas stoves of any description (gas as in UK vapour, or US petrol).
Cheers.
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ISTR there are a good few servicemen (as in Armed Services, not washing machines) so thought I'd throw an almost OT topic in.
Reading the worst web site in the world, the reader could get the impression that Britelyt Multifuel stoves are used throughout the US and NATO Armed Forces, where they naturally use Diesel as the common fuel.
Has anyone come across these stoves in use, and seen / experienced them running on diesel?
I'll even take references to Blog sites by Servicemen, or Forums for Servicemen, if you think I might get a reasonable response to my query.
That clumsy, badly laid out, poorly formatted, website is http://www.britelyt.com/stoves.htm
I'm interested in the proper stove, not the light with an adaptor.
Thanks.
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Re reading this thread, I'd say this vehicle is an investment opportunity.
However, a few caveats.
Obviously the lower the purchase price the better the investment.
I'm talking reasonably long term, say 5 years.
The vehicle can, indeed should, be used regularly on the road.
While it can survive if kept outside 24/7, it will take less comsmetic maintenance if kept in a dry, dehumidified, garage. A good car port is better than open air, but will still require more cosmetic cleaning to really keep it in good condition.
To protect, or even enhance it's investment value, then some regular garage maintenance is essential to keep the records up, but to minimise costs, also do some work yourself.
Be aware that an awful lot of LR tradesters do not have 38As as their prime interest, so diagnostic capabilities are going to be (relatively) low, and repair costs high. They will literally trade on the views (some expressed in this thread) that the vehicles are known to be expensive (and that you will be conditioned to expect expensive) and thus charge expensively.
You have to know more than they do, this involves effort to gain knowledge. DO NOT rely on getting precise and accurate information via forums just when you need it. Build up a store of knowledge in advance by daily reading of the right forums. (You will get very little return for your time spent here, for instance).
Don't just treat it as a daily driver, be prepared to invest some personal time into it, getting into the 38A world by joining the right forums, getting the Workshop Manuals AND READING THEM for interest, not just when you have to.
You (and your family) need to be able to live with cream upholstery (in this case).
If you make the personal investment, year in, year out, then you can have a superb car to use every day, AND get a good return on your financial investment.
IIRC MJG, your prime LR interest is a Series, and you are strapped for garage space, so on those grounds I don't think this is for you. If your prime LR interest is Series (or Defender, or anything not 38A) then this is also a reason not to proceed with ANY 38A.
Written by someone who has the Diesel 38A as their prime LR interest, and has owned / maintained a single example since July '99. Mine is a daily driver, I have never seen it as an investment opportunity, there are no service records, and it's kept outside all the time. I know it's worth 'nothing' to sell, so I'll continue to maintain it as required.
All this is 'because it needed saying' to balance the views.
I am not trying to change your decision not to purchase for yourself.
Cheers.
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Without wishing to wake the Troll, I'd suggest an Orange level price.
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No complications FOR YOU :-)
Cheers.
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There isn't a calibration mode on the Classic. There is however a Self Test Mode, detailed in the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. This exercises both seats and mirrors through their full range of movements, and by observing what happens and what doesn't you get a clue as to what is wrong, or at least where to investigate further. The Manual describes this as the first step in any faulting procedure.
So, you need a RAVE CD.
Try http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?opt...3&Itemid=29
Select Rave CD3, but you may need some additional help to convert the files into a type you can use to create a CD from. That isn't my specialism, so ask for someone else if you need help.
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It's some time since I read about this yearly competition, but if I recall correctly there are 'conditions' around which cars are elegible.
It's not obvious, but there are two main forces behind this competition. The Tow-ers want to know which cars are 'best', but they can't afford to buy and test one of each. The manufacturers want the advertising benefits of an outside endorsement (and to know what areas of vehicle to vehicle comparisons to steer clear of when training sales people).
So, the manufacturers / importers provide the cars.
However, no manufacturer wants his previous model to be upstaged by the older model it's just superseeded, or by last years model from anyone else.
The result is that only new production models are tested, and I think the manufacturer has to deliberately put a model forward, inclusion isn't automatic.
Thus if you are interested in how a car introduced in 2002 performs, you need to go and search for 2002 test results. No, I don't know where they are.
Note that I don't recall the position re model enhancements, thus the 38A Range Rover might have only been elegible in 1995, but not in 2000, or whenever petrol engine management changed from Lucas to Bosch.
BTW, I am a CCGB&I member, but clearly not on their e-mail list. I didn't spot any comment in the current magazine. On reflection, I think I'll survive without getting more involved :-)
HTH
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OK, Understood, thanks.
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Just a comment from a user who considers himself mainly 'inactive'.
I note the comments from Invision always refer to Concurrent users.
My ISP logs me off every 24 hours, whether the PC has been Hibernated within that period or not.
However, once logged into this forum, and some other LR forums in the same multi-tabbed Browser window, I tend to stay logged in for several days, even though I don't actually read postings every day.
So, if the forum invoked a disconnection every 24 hours, I would not be sitting there as an idle but concurrent user. It's true that if disconnected like this I may actually not bother to visit more than once a week, but who is the loser in that case? Possibly me, but hardly the Forum, or even other users, considering how infrequently I am active.
Those who are both more regular and active may object to 'logging in' every 24 hours, but in the case of my ISP it's just a matter of typing in my password, my user name is automatically entered. IE, It's not an onerous task to re-activate the account.
Reducing Concurrent users by elimination of the idle ones may not be a long term solution, but might buy you time at a very minimal cost.
There is an assumption that the software has the facility to limit the amount of time a user is continuously logged on, so in this respect my comments are risky.
Regards.
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Given the reading I used to do in Motor Sport magazine (when Bill Boddy was Editor, and DSJ wrote Letters from Europe) cone clutches were often used in early cars, and were often described as fierce or sudden. I formed the opinion that the mechanical advantage of the cone shape was used to compensate for the poor friction qualities of the lining materials they had available.
My personal experience of cone clutches was in Laycock overdrives, as fitted to MGBs. In those the clutch was engaged by hydraulic pressure from a plunger pump driven off the gearbox output shaft. Clutch release was effected by both opening the hydraulic circuit, thus dumping the pressere, and several coil springs (compressed as the clutch engaged) forcing the carrier for the inner lining away from the outer.
You may need to give similar encouragement for the handbrake linings to disengage.
The significant point with these overdrives is that the driver was encouraged to keep the power on when engaging overdrive, as the speed difference between the inner and outer tended to screw one into the other and give a very positive engagement. Here the cone was used to give an effective non-slip clutch in a small diemension. It may be that you need to ensure that at least one of the cone carriers has enough mechanical movement to allow it to be drawn into a tighter bond with it's mate as one cone rotates wrt the other.
I'm not certain on the ability of a cone handbrake to withstand mud and grit. You might benefit from scrolled slots (as in grooved brake discs) in one surface, to give a channel for the muck to drop into while on it's way out.
HTH
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I have been pondering these for some time....
I belive that the 'dippable' H4 type uses a solenoid to move the bulbs focus point in order to dip. i would assume then that its possible to adjust the level in that way.
On the HID bulbs I've seen, then NO.
The light source is a small 'bubble' about halfway along a rod of glass. The glass is horizontal, like a standard H1 or H4 bulb, and never moves.
Around the glass is a chromed steel tube, which extends the full length of the glass rod, and has an end cap on.
The upper half of the tube is cut away, so light from the bubble shines upwards, hits the upper half of the reflector cone and is reflected down and forward through the lens prism, giving dip beam.
The lower half of the tube has a transverse slot cut in it, and in the unpowered dip position this slot is over the solid base which holds the glass rod, thus no light shines through the slot.
When main beam is selected the metal tube is pushed forwards by a solenoid. The slot is now level with the light source bubble, so light shines downwards (as well as upwards). The downward light hits the lower half of the reflector cone, being directed forward through the lens prism, thus giving BOTH dip AND main at the same time.
You can see there is no individual Main OR Dip adjustment. Whatever you do affects both at the same time.
If you want a guaranteed result, use www.HIDs4U. co.uk and ask his advice about which is right for your use and your pocket.
Unless you know, and have driven behind someone else's ebay purchase, and feel they are right for you, then ignore ebay, AND and other vendors. Let someone else gamble, like me, and take advantage of my mistakes.
Power is nothing without control, and having a million candle power shining out from the front of your car will be a waste of time if the beam is not accurately controlled.
Personally I don't want the tarmac close to the car turning white when I'm trying to do 60mph in the dark. I want the bright spot lifting from in front of the car on dip to further down the road when on main, thus I have a problem with any device that leaves Dip on (as HIDs do) when I select Main. Others think brighter is best, even if the bright bit is so close to the bonnet that at 88 feet per second (60mph) you will hit whatever is in the bright spot before you have chance to press the brake pedal.
The cost effective answer is Osram Silver star bulbs.
I've no experience with the Crystal Sealed beam, but I'll probably be trying some if I keep the Series 2 device.
HTH.
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I am wondering if anyone here has dirty hands on experience of the Land Rover based Fire vehicles made in the past by Carmichaels of Worcester.
Specifically it's the FT6 style I'm interested in. FT6 Catalogue.
I've found a few pictures on the web of shiney red bits, but it's the underneath I'm more interested in, thus 'dirty hands on'.
I've searched all the forums with varioius Search Terms, Carmichael, Fire Engine, Fire, and not flushed out much.
There is suppossedly a picture in the Gallery, but the Search couldn't find it.
Note that a S2 A or B Forward Control is a different animal altogether, and is not relevant to my enquiry.
Cheers.
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OK, I've boxed myself into a corner here, you might as well all have an opportunity to display your wisdom :-))
I've bought the Draper / Machine Mart speed saw, and an inline oiler, and One Litre of oil.
If I analyse the oiler correctly, the fill hole is about 3 mm in diameter, so what do other folks use to transfer Airline Oil from the one litre bottle through the 3mm hole?
If anyone is inclined to say they use 3 in 1, and the nozzle on the standard small tin works fine, they should expect their (sensitive areas) to start hurting, just as soon as I've finished the plasticine model, and stuck several pins in the appropriate place!!
That was the simple starter, now onto more serious matters.
I recall, vaguely, that some compressed air hand tools should NOT have the Quick Release connector screwed directly into the tool, but should have a short length of hose attached, then the QR connector. I think (vague recall) that this was to isolate the QR from any vibration manating from the tool, but there may have been other reasons as well.
Yes? No? What other reasons might there be?
If Yes, is there a recommended minimum length for this permanently connected hose?
Getting personal, I now have several air hand tools.
An assortment of spray lances for cleaning and undersealing purposes.
A 3/8" right angle ratchet, which I've never used.
An air chisel, used very occasionally.
The new speed saw.
If short isolation hoses are required, is that for everything, or just 'some' of them? If so, which?
Cheers
PS - I think this is my first New Topic posting on this Forum. If it isn't, I can't recall the last one!!
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You've said it twice, once as "15k", then again as "15000". In both cases what you have written is 15 THOUSAND.
I think you meant 1.5k and 1500 respectively.
At no load I'd have said it doesn't take a lot of air to run at 15 HUNDRED rpm.
Do you have a vacuum brake servo? Have you isolated the rubber pipe to the servo? A cracked pipe or a faulty servo may cause enough of an air leak, and it might explain why you can hear a hiss when the engine is switched off, depending on where the servo's atmospheric pick up is located (frequently in the car).
The Lakes eh? At Easter? Brave man.
Workshop manual for P38 ..also clock bulbs
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Clock Removal.
The stock information is in your RAVE, but you will soon be able to read it on paper.
The clock is only removed from the fascia switch moulding after that moulding is removed from the fascia itself. This calls for prior removal of the side panels.
You will find guidance on side panel removal, based on different practical experiences, not a Workshop Manual rewrite, in two places, rangerovers.net and http://www.rangie.com/articles_model.php?id=73&modelId=2
I suggest you read both, as which is most appropriate varies depending on what you find in your car when you start the job.
HTH
HTH