Jump to content

Landrover17H

Settled In
  • Content Count

    249
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

37 Excellent

About Landrover17H

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bucks

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Seems you've sorted the anomaly now, but you great wassack, you could have asked! I posted my thoughts, rather than see you bog-down with nonsense, would have been happy to nip out there with camera and tape-measure.
  2. OK, so you're witterin'? You don't know how to force-assist brakes without vacuum, be it pumped vacuum or not? You've not got that far. You've a fetish for red pedal-boxes. But... you do know: "These will outbrake anything from a standard vehicle." Wish you'd said.
  3. Oh dear, that old chestnut. The Physics class conundrum. My 12YO could run rings around that Youtuber. Yes, wider tyres give more grip, but that's about maintenance of contact-patch, on an ever moving surface, and the air-gaps this creates - and the tyre wall, folding-in etc etc. A real Black-art. Not greater area per se.
  4. How? I'm learning here - dunce-cap on, not just from my ankle, not from vacuum servo or electric vacuum pump thus vacuum, where does the extra force come from. I can only see pedal-boxes? How would this alternative work?
  5. Multiplate clutches simply create more area to get rid of heat and last longer, doing this in less space than a one piece (with the same area) which might not fit in the space? No?
  6. I lay prostrate, please educate me and others. How does greater area create greater friction at outset, yes area keeps things cooler and takes longer to wear out. How do these brakes and their shape, and area (not distance form axis), only area, increase friction for the same force? Without lining material change? All else equal? Please point me to a road or race pump that creates direct braking force, not via vacuum. All the electric brake pumps I've seen are vacuum. It's not possible to store hydraulic pressure, outside of a Citroen set-uo. How do they work so quickly? The Citroen system is the only thing I've ever seen, and clearly it's not that. Few would stay undecided for long, ie contemplate a Citroen system? I would genuinely like to see. This was always my understanding of friction/force/area:
  7. All the pumps I've ever seen, including my own Hella type, can't create braking force per se, only vacuum. Force 'at application' arrives via vacuum, not the pump, and that vacuum is held via one type of servo or another. ABS pumps don't produce braking for per se either, they meter the valves. Are there 'road-use' pumps that actually 'create' fluid pressure? That's at least 200-300 Bar in milliseconds, one 'ell of a pump? Can't see how or why that'd work. No vac?? If so, please put up a link - I'm learning something and I like that. MC? Using coiler servos you're down to coiler choices. If you've discs all round the Type 80 better proportions discs rear; drums up back? ... the Type 50. You'll likely need a prop. valve and RPV to the rear. The coiler uses a G valve which is difficult to duplicate, and you're trying to do exactly that, you're looking to duplicate the coiler system.
  8. Yes, but why? £50 for a used Type 50 or 80 works. In our case few would seriously contemplate much else, the fruit hangs so low. Would you, have you, if so why? And most create a vacuum anyway. Here's a Type 50.
  9. I will admit, I'm intrigued. How would we make-up force easily, or at all, without using vacuum? Where will this mysterious force be borne? We're looking forward to this... This will be good, damned good, tell more.
  10. There's a reason coilers have larger servos. We need a Residual Pressure MC too.
  11. Fit a larger servo or be disappointed. All else equal, discs reduce force, thus you'll not improve braking with discs alone. School-boy stuff. We've to make-up the force deficit with a larger servo or a very strong ankle. Using a coiler servo means cutting the wing, such that it'll be visible with the bonnet shut. Heystee do a larger servo, (no cutting) but from experience, it's not a large enough. Sadly, an 'idiot alert' needs to be inserted here. This is brakes after all, and brakes threads usually degrade at this point. It's possible to show the money the state wastes giving education to all, to deprive those that could use a decent one! Harsh but true. In short, Quack 'Physics from the sales-leaflet' won't improve brakes with discs, you'll need a servo. Physics-quackery never mentions the servo, only how more pistons in a caliper makes for better brakes or some other flannel? Here we assume a proper understanding of brakes, we've removed self-servo remember. If this has not been considered... Friction is a factor of force; NOT area; area is a factor of cooling... NOT friction... blah. Brakes sized as a barn-door don't increase friction from area. The greater diam. of some kits, my PS10 kit for example, and the later Heystee kits makes-up the force deficit to a degree, increased Moments of Force etc, but we'll not get away without something like these. Put the dunce-cap on now if we're ready to say otherwise. Here's what we want....
  12. Agreed, never had a sixer or a 2.25 Diesel. but nearly the rest: V8 ('Looks' like a good idea), TDi (masochistic), 2.25, and a Prima ('orrible). An ACR kitted 2.5 is the cherry-on-the-top. A stock 2.5 needs a tad more. You're right, you won't see much over 20-21mpg, the ACR kit give a little more economy , but not to speak of. And you lose this gain if you prod it, which you'll tend to do. I solve the 17 to 21 mpg by Homefill, which has its own compromises. At 2.8, I've got 300cc more than this project aims for, I'd expect head-to-head, Gazzer is still set to give me a hiding? And I agree, I am a gnat's cock under a V8 in the grunt department, ie: top of my local test-hill I'm down 1-2mph. But... it suits in a way I can't quite convey to those that haven't experienced it. In the real world, not looking at speedometers atop hills, I don't notice. However running G20 does lose me grunt - this I NOTICE. Until i run petrol which in practice, unless to get me home, I just don't. But this suffers the hit in any engine that must also run liquid. For a start the gases like 13:1 CR or more - 110-120 RON etc,. You can't find say, 14:1 when wanting to also run liquid - you take the hit. On G20 it refuses to pink! Does-ya-see where my 300cc is lost again? This is why I'm very interested in what a 17H will do with full Mega'ed EFi. I won't claim perfect; yet I've said before, mine's good, and I'd G20 this if it were my project - then again it isn't. I think this is set to be the best of the lot.
  13. Says I, feeling kinda' smug. When a wheel-cover tells the story - no need focus too much on Liveridge, the under-current to how it's still there now, says more.
  14. I'm sure there won't be much wrong with the kits, it's more that Land rovers are one of those vehicles where there's little room for shonk, the problem is where the Zues kit leads. A Zues kit forces use of the ration in one sitting. Once on the slippery slope, you're found with a 'truck', and very quickly.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy