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About Landrover17H

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  1. Schhhh....! This is one of those "Yes, but why would you?" questions that seem to appear on almost a weekly basis. The results of these can become internet gold, and everybody needs a chuckle. On the LPG forum, this is one of my favourites - best read when you really need a giggle: https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=8148
  2. Been down this road, this may help: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/107805-s2-hinge-door-mirrors-for-the-classic-look/
  3. The issue is door-mirrors with S2 hinges, or not. Unless you run wing-mirrors, you're in for some messing. S3 part MRC4583 can be made to fit, as can coiler type mirrors. But it takes some searching, adaptors and/or the original S2 part MRC56. MRC56 is made of unobtainium. You'll be wanting brackets 347704 347705 too. And don't even mention the price of the milly version of S2 hinges (with integral mirror-mount). last I looked £300 a set!
  4. +1 For crimes against the eyes. Whilst I'm rantin'... what is it with the larger proportion of LR owner's spattering perfectly decent stuff in juvenile/ homo-erotic shonk? I mean, if you are a bit 'confused', fine, that's still no call for wheel-carriers, umpteen jerry-cans, ***plate, eight-spokes, snorkels, big-wheels and general fakery. Just 'kin say so, and buy a Harley. This is simple, and it works - here's mine. What's wrong with something along these lines?
  5. +1. I suppose it depends on how you like your filth, only this is England for chrissakes? I'm not a fan of spares on bonnets, and I'm a near 6 footer. In my book the way to go is a hassle to get right - mine's sat on 3-hinge rear door with a S3 dovetail-mount. A coiler anti-burst latch is swapped-in, hence two dovetails, it can't move or rattle.
  6. Yes, must do mine, currently the whole lot swings in the breeze which has fractured a few bits. I left it knowing full well this would happen, more because I was worried to drill the galved-chassis. Mine's ratty as it gets, so no overly worried, whereas a rotten chassis would have me fretting. Do I read that drawing correctly, there's a bolt-on bracket that saves drilling anyway?
  7. Browsing as you do, spotted this... too few pix to nail precisely; and surely it's cheap enough, but one thing it isn't is a 2.5 Petrol. Careful out there: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184487866730
  8. Here we are: Whilst it's not critical, all you really need is to watch for a change, likely either your gauge or sender will be out of wack, thus a collection of 10 Ω resistors helps if you see an over-read. Bit of Ohms law will work out what you need if it under-reads. Landrover S3 Water Temp Sender 560794.pdf
  9. From my notes: SERIES & 2.5 Petrol Water Temperature sender 560794 Series Water Temperature gauge needs 75 ohms from sender to read normal Thread 5/8" x 18 UNF Brand: Intermotor 52770 Product Code: 52770 TRIUMPH TR 4 2.0 09/1960 12/1965 JAGUAR E-TYPE 4.2 04/1961 04/1975 LAND ROVER 88/109 (LR) 2.3 09/1961 12/1986 JAGUAR S-TYPE 3.4 05/1963 08/1968 JAGUAR S-TYPE 3.8 05/1963 08/1968 LAND ROVER 88/109 Hardtop (LR) 2.3 09/1963 12/1986 JAGUAR E-TYPE 3.8 04/1961 04/1975 JAGUAR E-TYPE Convertible 4.2 04/1961 04/1975 JAGUAR E-TYPE Convertible
  10. Well, had a look, and if your poison is a Model T, you're not wrong.
  11. Sounds great. Never seen nor heard of one of those, must be able to find a used one? I shall look-see.
  12. I buy the biggest Yuasa I can get in my rear-sited battery-box, from Halfords. I never get more than 4-5 years out of mine, but I suspect my alternator is not kind to them. I pay the Halfords 14-20% premium over anywhere else because they tend to honour their warranty - which gets used! A Smart-charger is recommended, old skool chargers do more harm than good. I can't see a battery in an EV doing ten years or a million miles (whichever is sooner), but maybe? Cells are not computers/ TV sets / washing-machines that become ever twice as fast, for half the price. We've a box of chemicals,
  13. Yes, this is for your Mother right? Somehow I'm thinking, 'Little 'ole lady from Pasadena' she won't be. In stock form there's nothing to worry about. A few modern touches .... radio and heated-screens for winter, but for putterin' about - not much else.
  14. Yup, ".... do not pass Go, do not collect £200" If you're going to that much pain, to not galvanise is just daft. Do the radiator-panel whilst you're on. You'll get all, or maybe add a little more, than you spend in resale. And I'm afraid, 'keeper' or not, that counts... who knows what the future holds, and one day you might want, or forbid, be forced to cash-in? I tell you now, I wouldn't ever consider buying without a galved b/head and chassis, and I'll pay a decent premium for these.
  15. I'm talking about the spray-can stuff. When it's labelled as white-grease it comes cheaper. Would be far better, but I'm unsure how you'd get the old-skool boil-in-a-bath chain-lube into springs in-situ? Don't rebuild 'em, staart with WD40, spray as much as you can and hit the speed-bumps at 35-40mph. Rinse and repeat. They'll shift. 3-400 miles should improve them lots, and by 1500 they'll be dandy. Then white-grease etc. But for chrissakes, raise your backside as you do this, or you're set to impact a vertebrate.
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