Landrover17H

I suppose, but if I'm going to do it, may as well do it all, and import some Plusnuts. I am prepared to get Plusnuts, but they're still too small [M6] , or depending on which way I attack this [M8], too big. Now an M6 Plusnut welded to make it larger in diameter, maybe - but I'd need to REALLY know what I'm doing with a welder. With my ability limited to 'Bird-sh&t', as today's menu special, that 'dear heart'.... is a long way off! And welding to the galv. self-defeats. Ho-hum, for now I am forced to bodge. I march on.

Closest to a Plusnut in wall-anchors is this, for plasterboard ... grip is too deep, can we give 'em 5 mins or the first gust of wind, on a driver's door-stay?

And for those of you that don't know what a Plusnut is... (I didn't) here you are, good aren't they? I would think for most uses, better than any Rivnut? Unfortunately, made of unobtainium in the UK. I've looked at every kind of wall-anchor, and all grip, deep in the cavity, as you'd expect. They don't do this - see piccy.

Thanks. Plusnuts are difficult to get hold of here, I was happy to import these if they got me out of a jam. I was hoping the '+' of hte Plusnut, will stop them pulling thru'. But an M6 Plusnut still has a grip limit at 9.9mm (ish). Nonetheless, better because a Plusnut might spin in a 9.9mm (ish) hole, but won't pull thru'. Even if they don't grip better than a Rivnut. A bit of JB Weld on a Plusnut might 'just' tip the balance. Being the driver's door stay, my bodge won't last, so would appreciate you having a looksee at what you've got. I'd like to do a proper job, but that looks to involve an M8 Plusnut and bigger holes.

Really, I hope you're right? I spent heaps of time looking. My hole is 9.9mm which is on, or just over, the outer 'grip' limit of any M6 rivnut I could find. Go to M8 and you drill 11mm holes. I spent two evenings on and off, going thru' numerous Rivnut manufacturer catalogues trying to find weightier M6 rivnut or rivnut studs. Plusnut are no better. All top-out at around 9.8 to 9.9mm. I thought SAE Imperial stuff would sit at a halfway house between Metric sizes, but no. At around M6 sizes, Imperial stuff uses the same 9.9mm max drills. My 6 x holes are just that 0.1 to 0.2mm too big. M6 rivnuts come in at 9mm (unexpanded) and don't get to 10mm still gripping. I'm hoping you know better, but below is typical of the problem. We want an M7 Rivnut or a Plusnut. A midpoint, somethings that sits 9.8mm (ish) unexpanded. I've had to bodge another set of M6 in there, I don't think I've solved the issue, just put it off. M8 with a 10mm OD, in my workings there's no such animal, but... I do hope you can prove me wrong. Will PM you.

I stand corrected, still it makes me chuckle. I'm with you, leaks etc, can't hide. It's the pragmatic and practical colour. Not sure why it's not used more often.

Where did you get that seal-tool from. Is it something you mashed-up or any 'LR dealer only' job?

I'm doing mine Blue so I'll be looking in. I reckon our 'Bearded-brethren' covered engine-paint not long back. Hang on... Yep: https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,2967.0.html If they knew? You'd need to putting in a dynamo to keep some of them happy. Duck-egg on a 5MB? Oh dear, oh dear.

I've not really found a solution to this, and I've done near a day looking. I suspect a M6 Plusnut will be better than any Rivnut, greater surface-area, but it's another set of M6 rivnuts in there for now. If it fails again, I'll need to bite the bullet and go to M8. Not happy, but no choice. Thrown in, dosed each with a heap of JB Weld. We live in hope.

Bodge. Moi? I'm guessing you've seen this. 'Otley' using an S2 cover.

Oh, that. Bit of scrap-angle. Off a 1960s gas cooker.

Bracket: The cheapo from 'Trigger Wheels', and a bit of scrap angle-iron. They do another 'hand' which in hindsight would be neater, but mine's heading to look rather more 'barnyard'. Thus by the time I've cut off all the superfluous mounting-material, and welded it all in, it'll be neater, but not super-neat. The pop-rivet is work-in-progress. If you're to filch my approach, and want it better, you require the pricier 'hand'. If you're dressing to make it look more 'Series' - that timing cover, has 2 x captive threads sitting unused (unless you have a mech.winch.) Easier still. Let me know, I've pix around somewhere. My pulley - ERC5128. I run PAS. I've managed to find a Metric starter-dog, yet that was £65 alone. Trouble is, 'doing it all' soon mounts up. You think, "Ah well, it's only £60 quid." But so is everything else... You did say... Flywheel mount has to be a better job. Me? I'll be happy to see it working. Mine's a 'daily' and never looks anything other than battle-worn. Never been washed etc.

Love this thread. A duck-egg blue 2.5 makes me smile. My rocker and all the 17H I've ever seen lack an orange plastic filler. Not sure why... I think earlier lumps had them. Could be wrong. Now would be the time to get a trigger-wheel on that pulley, can't remember if you've already covered this. Needs welding etc, here's as far as I got with mine.

A bit late for 88 owners, but with a 109, no need to bother with such things. Nice, but there's never a return on investment. If it's for 6-7 days away, a few bits of board across, and those inflatable mattresses fit well. Hence: Camping-kit stores under the boards/and or trailer. Best of of all, because there's often no better place to store it, we're not caught with half the kit still atop the leafer in Feb. We don't give the rest, a bad name, with justified mockery as the stereo-typical "Seen Crocodile-Dundee once too often" ocean-going w&*^%$r. Yep, no tent to store, no total-eclipse roof-rack, and assuming we're going to buy the bed anyway, and a few bits of board knocking around, with those inflatable beds being so cheap, job's done for £15. Anything else, and small children point.

Jeremy, not seen an S2 lately but nuts from the back on an S3 can't happen. I'm looking to wall fixing. FF shows an M6 M8 type which won't expand enough. A PlusNut might go - see below - what we want is M7 but as far as I know there's no such animal.

Rivnuts / Nutserts into an S3 Bulkhead door-stay Pretty sure that ex-factory an S3 bulkhead leaves with 3 x captive-nuts each side [in 'A' Pillar] for the door-stay. I've a galved bulkhead, and it appears M6 rivnuts have been used. Only they were 'monkeyed' in, and have fallen out. We need M7 for a tight fit, 'cost M8 is too big and M6 too small. But M7 rivnuts don't exist. I've looked at SAE/Imperial size rivnuts and they don't come up any different. Either too big or too small. I don't want to enlarge the holes in my 'luvverly' bulkhead, it'll mess the galving. I see Land rover make an M6 to a spec... LANDROVER LR038192 M6 x 30mm CAPTIVE RIVNUT Are these made for this job?

2-pin is fine. I'm sure it's most definitely not the case for all, but many seem to be doing very nicely. Had I been on 'wages', I'd be furloughed too. Instead I missed the gravy in grants et al, (didn't get the tax-return in on time) and will be lucky to see any handout, business is shot right now. Hey ho...

That annoys me, changed my sender not long ago. Had I known the difference, I'd have put in a 'deseasel sender' and be done. As it is, I've got an unused 'cold start' indicator on my speedo, mine's been diesel in the past anyway. Or is the 'cold start' for a petrol choke?

A Land rover purports as a class-less vehicle, yet there's no greater lie. Next to "The Orangery', or in sight of a white plastic Disneyland front-door, the penchant for shonk announces the sink-estate.

Hallelujah to that! I'd fail to put it better.

Excuse my grumpiness, but why are these things ever sold in purely juvenile colours? Do they infer we're all w&*kers, or just some of us?;) Come on... have it pink, and be done?

You could do it that way, seems an over-complication to me? Suggest you follow me, find a 2 -pin motorcycle flasher relay on eBay for under a fiver, swap indicator bulbs for LED and be done. I used this...

Thanks, hadn't realised this was a popular question, the top answer "It's where they fit the blanking plug" If we have this straight, deseasels had a separate low-level float arrangement? Where did that go?

Lubrication vs a set of Parabollox: This is the perennial argument, if left dry (and un-driven) stock springs start to seize or partial-seize, very quickly. Left a month in winter and it'll take 400 miles to get them supple. If you don't do 400 miles, they never ease off. A bad case can take 1500 miles to fully ease off, and get supple. That's my experience anyway. Parabollox solve this issue. Parabollox are better if that's how you use your leafer. For stock springs, I used to favour motorcycle chain-grease, 'cos it goes in like WD40 and then sets thick, and comes cheaper than the TIC alternative. Then again grease traps the grit & crud in a paste. I drive some 6-7000 miles a year, so now favour dry. The key is to drive, then they stay soft. This comes cheaper than Parabollox, and provided they're run most days, in my experience, the 'ride' is much the same. Many report a big improvement, yet careful, with PBs, often they're comparing to the partial or fully-seized stock item. The best way has to be leather-boots, loaded with grease, as seen on your actual 1927 6-Litre Bentley, which whilst a very good idea, won't happen around here!

Perhaps a daft question , yet in all the years I've known my civvy S3 I've had the idiot-light in the instrument binnacle wired lit when the heated-screens are fired-up, and previous to that, to indicate power isolated from the electric-fan. There's no indication in any wiring diagram I can find, of it being there at all? 'Shown below' has a switch, mine an idiot-light. What would an S3 (plastic binnacle) have there ex-factory? Were 'milly' versions different?