TD5toV8110
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Posts posted by TD5toV8110
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Progress (sort of)😍
Splashed out and bought a pair of NOS front wing panels!🤑
I can make a good set of wings with S3 sides, S2 tops, and new fronts!
But... The seller sent me two drivers side panels!☹️
He's going fix it, it's not like I'm in a hurry! 🤪
S2 engine is gone. Holden engine sold twice, but both no show...😠
Sold the S3 engine to a mate. 👍
Cheers
Dave
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The 110 TD5 Defender chassis had straight sections bridging the swoop!
I'm going straight! 🤪
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Hey.
What was LR's reason for the curved rear section of chassis?
Just realized the Series chassis is straight.
Why did you go curved on this custom rear Serge?
I think I may go straight on mine. 😬
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But you do...🤪
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Indeed!
A colleague sold a very nice original unmolested S2 to someone, who then sent it off to Mr Budge....
All the cars history, gone...
I sold the S2 engine and the Holden engine, so today I have to remove the pair!
Cheers
Dave
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You should probably clear coat it rather than black....😍
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Remember to put the yellow seals on before you strip n crimp....
Cheers
Dave
Practice before you commit to the loom!
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2 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Through the post today..
Part of the 1uz wiring assistance package....
regards Stephen
Stuff of nightmares for you Stephen! 😂
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13 hours ago, simonr said:
Petrol hasn't run out yet....
They are making synthetic petrol now (just needs to become more affordable)
The future may be electric/hydrogen but leave classics alone! 😘
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Even with the engine 100mm back my oil filter housing will be right above the diff housing....
I've looked at many Series with V8s and they somehow have way more room than a Defender set up?
The distance between bulkhead and diff is bigger?
Moving the engine as high as possible as well to minimise potential contact.
A remote oil filter unit is ordered from MLR in the UK.
Cheers
Dave
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100%.
It's going at least 100mm back.
Need to remove/relocate middle crossmember (hand brake clearance)
Have to chop up my freshly restored bulkhead to clearance headers anyway.☹️
Been waiting to get to this exact stage before committing to the "cut"...
As soon as bulkhead is chopped and crossmember is gone I can stuff the engine/'box as far back as possible and fab some mounts.
@Daan I did say this earlier, but you weren't paying attention....🤪🙃
Cheers
Dave
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Cheers!
Originality is catching on down under, just not at my house! 🤪
Going to look old (front on anyway)
Rivet counters nightmare....🤣
Don't get me started on the explosion of shiny restored Series Rovers with fecking Tesla motors in them...🤮
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Well, got the S2 front end sat on the chassis!
It is bad but gives me accurate points to measure from for radiator etc.
Cheers
Dave
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Removed the S2 front end.
Gave up undoing/shearing bolts.
Milwaukee Sawzall to the rescue!
Basically, cut the bulkhead up where it wasn't rotten!
Now got easy access to remove the remaining bolts.
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7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Can I be surely not the first to request that @steve b do a build thread or something on such a unique truck!
On the oil filter - the slimmest possible way on earlier front covers is the replacement pump housing:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/rover-v8-oil-pump-cover-m-v8-cover
Which removes a big chunk, however it will foul the cross-bolts on a 4.0 or 4.6 (ask me how I know). There's Mocal and Flotec variants, I think I had the Flotec, the Mocal *might* work but I'd be very careful - this thread seems to suggest it can be bolted on but only just:
https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=75708#p75708
Mine's got the oil pump on the crank!
Been reading that some peeps have cut/welded the oil filter area then used the cooler ports for cooling and a remote filter....
See how I go, putting the engine as high up and far back as possible to avoid diff/filter action.
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Lots prettier than mine are going to be! 🤪
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Didn't know he was on here! 🤩
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Yup.
Not a chance, you would have to trailer it to private land!
Check out this "Wildfing" Home made portals!
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The Series 2 is now called Tetanus! (many cuts to my knuckles!)
Every effing bolt holding the front end on is a 15 minute job.....
Angle grinder when I can.
Or hammer the socket on, hammer a spanner on, then just shear them off.
Then off to the vice to punch them out.😠
A mate reckons he can get me some better wings, but he's dragging his heels....
So I'll persevere with what I have for now.
Cheers
Dave
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Engineering down under is very strict.
To modify steering is a big no.
Or an expensive yes, design specs, NDT of any welds etc.
I was considering the kit from Blackbird industries in the UK.
The R&D has been done and it's bolt on, no welding, so could have convinced my engineer.
This is a very budget build. The kit and box would have cost me over $1000. Not worth it for me!
The 4 core 60 series radiator will do the job aided by an independent oil cooler.
I can sell the Disco radiator to a Range Rover Classic owner! (It's old school with brass tanks)
Cheers
Dave
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The radiator has to sit right where the steering box is. (to achieve lights in grille)
I want the biggest radiator possible.
The Disco radiator is massive, a 1/3 of it would live in the left wing!
Current favorite is a 4 row alloy unit for a Toyota 60 series.
A separate oil cooler can sit in front of it between the headlights.
Was considering a P38 steering box mod, but best part of $1000 to get about 100x400mm extra rad surface area!
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Rover V8 question.
Going to fit a remote oil filter housing.
I want the slimmest one, some I've seen take up nearly as much space as the filter.
Also want to plumb in an oil cooler.
What's the best/easiest/cheapest way to do this?
My engine has the filter pointing forward at 45° ish
Edit...
Just looked, my filter housing has two ports on it already for the cooler!
So a simple side port adaptor will be perfect! (Cheers Bowie!)
Cheers
Dave
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Thankfully the blade brake worked!
I had a 22mm hex bruise on my spine! (one of the blade bolts!) 🤕
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4 wipers!🤩
I live on 12 acres of hill. from the house to the creek at the bottom is 400 metres out and 100 metres down! (all uneven)
Need to keep a fire break, The Grillo is the best steep terrain mower.
Ironically, I was mowing the only bit of flat grass on the property, then fell off the edge....🤕
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Series 2 body on 110 chassis with Disco V8/auto.
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Good timing there Mr Freezer.
It is that engine to diff gap I don't have. (even after I move it back 100mm)
I've looked at hundreds of V8's in Series vehicles.
They all seem to have more room than me.
Got tape measure out yesterday.
A Series diff/wheel centre is about 3" farther forward than my 110 ....😬
I wasn't very precise, just eyeballed the wheel centres back to the bulkhead.
25 1/2 inches for the 110, 28 1/2 on the Series. (I did inches just because.)
I can make it work, just got 3" less to play with!
Cheers
Dave