Phill S
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Posts posted by Phill S
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Great - that's the sort of thing I'm looking for, thanks. I believe silicone is impervious to E10?
Just to clarify what I'm looking at, rear and side:
Anybody know what those weird round lumps are? Rear one seems to be welded in and I can't work out the side tank one. Seems to be attached to the painted over plate that probably used to say diesel. However that one is attached it prevents the plate coming off. I'll take another look at that today. Anyway, they're not pretty and would like to get rid of them...
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Well thanks for the info but it's actually a bit more complicated than that. My main tank filler connecting pipe is 73mm dia, I've just got the side tank back in today and that's 57mm. I'm assuming the 2 lug setup is 57mm, but I'm guessing. I'll find out next week when they turn up. The point being that either rear or side is a problem to be solved. The military filler necks are also 73mm so I was just able to put some flexible stuff on the back for the MoT. So something's got to be cobbled together either for rear or side tank. Aiming to go to Turkey close to the Syrian border next year, so very much want to de-militarise the whole vehicle - another minor factor.
So on balance I think I'm going to go for the RTC4740/STC4072 caps and NTC2676 necks and then look to find a way to expand from the 57mm neck to the 73mm tank at the rear. That won't be a problem will it...
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So my truck is an ex Singapore army job and has the old 3 lug type cap with the padlock hasp, and that's with the additional 50 litre tank under the drivers seat. I want to replace with the standard lockable 2 lug caps that lock with a key. I've trawled through the forum and am now more confused than when I started.
From my usual starting point, the extraordinarily useful retroanaconda 110 parts book I find on page 526, caps RTC4740/STC4072 vented and RTC4741 unvented. Assume I need vented but interested in what an unvented one is all about? I'm also hoping to find somebody that can sell me a pair with the same lock/key to cut down the number of keys I need.
Then I'm going to need new 2 lug necks, which I assume are the same for both rear and side, and are listed as NTC2676 which LRWorkshop says is leaded and NTC2690 which the parts book says is unleaded. LRWorkshop has very little info on this one, but there seem to be plenty of the first one about. I assume that's also diesel?
Both of my tanks are original steel units, originally it had a 2.5NA diesel engine, now with a 3.9 V8, if that makes any difference. But you can see why I need two tanks.
I see there are a couple of seals I need too, but I assume there's nothing controversial about those. So is it as simple as that I need 2 caps RTC4740/STC4072 and 2 necks NTC2676? I know the tanks have different diameter neck to tank connections, but don't have the numbers to hand...
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4 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
in my view this is exactly what the forum is for
I couldn't agree more, all the help I get on here is very much appreciated
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Ok - I'm dealing with the embarrassment of getting the air cleaner the wrong way round. However, I have a running vehicle, the filter will be filtering and it will become one of those things that needs fixing. Having had it pointed out I have no idea how I managed to screw that one up. Any suggestions for reconfiguring welcome...
With poor weather on the way I've been working on the side tank while the sun is shining getting it cleaned up so very little progress on the aircon front.
7 hours ago, TSD said:The original PTC thread was here
Ok - more study material
2 hours ago, tommobot said:https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/universal-air-conditioning-unit
That sort of thing...
Yeah but if you're prepared to wait for the slow boat from China you can get (what I think is the same unit and) a complete system for £150.
If you look at the pics closely they look a bit too nasty even for me, but what do I know. But apart from all that I'm determined to get that breeze block of a Disco 1 evaporator squeezed in if I possibly can.
What I know is that I snaffled the last valve unit on Ali Express, like the taxi one shown above, for £7.50. There's taxes applied but it's still less than a tenner - should be here next week. Hopefully it'll get me going while I look for something better. Or maybe I'll just buy a 6 pack and swap them out as they start leaking.
More stuff coming tomorrow, trial fitting of the engine bay side. Maybe...
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2 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
Genuine question - is that air filter sucking and blowing the right way around?
Whoops - so I've got it the wrong way round? I went to a lot of trouble to get it in the wrong way round then 😕
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11 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
one option to look at is replacing the heater matrix with a PTC one
Hmm - sounds a bit new fangled to me 😉 An interesting thought but think I'll continue with the conventional thinking until I hit the stops. The RV8 is after all very good at producing hot water/coolant.
11 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:I did away with the factory heater on my 109 and replaced it with an Eberspacher
Yeah - might think about that if it all goes bad. Watch this space.
11 hours ago, mad_pete said:how did you mount the air filter ?
Ok - this will look a little eccentric:
To the left is the original 2.5NA air cleaner bottom section. I'd been disposing of a massive old dead laser printer which had a nice chunky metal frame. It was a bit of a game and needs to be done radiator out, but I replicated the legs from the original and with some big fat pop rivets attached it to the end of Britparts finest. The laser printer legs are actually stronger than the original unit. Not pretty, but hidden in the mass of underbonnet stuff. A tight fit up against the power steering pump but the engine doesn't seem to move much. So far. There's just enough room to get your arm around and underneath to tighten up the screw thingy to attach the upper portion of the 300 Tdi unit. I have some stainless mesh to fashion a grille over the top to prevent birds nesting and visiting friends using it as an ashtray.
9 hours ago, TSD said:The best heater valve I found is a VAG part used on the Phaeton thing
Yeah we had a bit of a chat about those a while ago, problem is they're all or nothing aren't they? On/off?
8 hours ago, TSD said:I just added a few pics from my heater install
That's great, thanks. I will study in detail in slow time and steal all your best ideas.
Now I know you'll all throw your hands up in horror, but I've had a close relation to this in my old Riley (SU HIF44 RV8) for about the last 5 years and it works fine:
Yes - we're talking cheapo Chinese and you'll find them listed on Ebay as something like "London Taxi TXII TX2, Kit Car - Metal Bypass Heater Control Valve - 16mm (5/8")" typically £20 sort of mark. Now not all Chinese stuff is junk, it's a bit of a lottery granted. But it does have the facility to progressively increase/decrease water flow in the way that you'd want. Might even connect up to the original Disco 1 heater control knobbery I know I have in a box somewhere. I've been looking for an original second hand one of these without success. Anyway, if I can't find anything else I might have a £20 flutter - I'll check the hose diameters today. Structurally it should be fine, just a case of whether it's going to leak or not. Place your bets gentlemen...
Working on cleaning up my fuel tanks at the moment for the grand dual tank system so the aircon job isn't going to go very quickly until the rain returns and I'm forced back inside. Lots of getting ideas straight to do though...
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6 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
you do have a big gap behind the engine
Aah yeah - I guess the diesel guys aren't going to have that so this might not be as much use to them as I'd thought. I've been keeping the area free and managed to squeeze a 300 Tdi air cleaner up front:
Still needs to have a lid put on it - other things more pressing at the moment, but I don't want to find I've got mice nesting in it...
7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:for packaging ideas if he's posted any pics of it
Yes! obviously interested in what others have done.
Just to take things to their logical limit I've been chopping up the big old HVAC unit and get this:
Just rough cut at the moment, don't judge me, this is work in progress! The original heater matrix is not a natural fit anywhere, but I dig this out:
Don't have the part number but I think it's the earlier heater unit matrix? This one is Allmakes that I picked up somewhere along the line - I'd appreciate any recommendations on what a decent make might be. Because it's a natural fit and sits perfectly in there. But. It sits very close to the evaporator so there's no way all the flaps and ducts from the original unit can be used - I don't think being close is a problem? Except that I'll need a tap to turn the hot water on and off and redirect the flow for the thermostat bypass circuit. Just a reminder that mine is the 3.9 serpentine engine.
A bit of digging around and the only possible manual Land Rover unit I can find is JQD500080V:
Which might be workable...
With lots of assumptions on hose diameters etc it might do the job. The evaporator is obviously just an on/off job, but assuming the above does what I think it does we might just be in business. Then I would need to duct air out of each side of the rear of the chopped up Disco heater unit to get the air out again and into the truck.
Hmm. What do we think?
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A couple of days ago I started looking at the feasibility of re-using the aircon/heating system in my 1987 110, that came from the engine donor Disco 1. While the donor was a V8 I'm guessing most of what follows is applicable to any of the Defender and earlier models, and there seem to be plenty of the diesel Disco's being broken so the parts I'm looking at here will be the same. Won't they? You just need a place to put all the bits under your bonnet. I've left as much space as possible behind the V8, so this is what I've got:
Ought to be able to get something useable in there didn't I?
First step, where's all the bits gone?
Astonishingly, I think I've found everything. A quick walk around to help anybody visiting a scrappy to find what they need (assuming this works out):
Then there's the big bad HVAC unit itself:
Pulling that apart I find a massive evaporator and a dinky little heater matrix:
Although it looks somehow bigger in that picture. Not sure I like the look of those push-in connectors to the heater matrix though.
Just now I'm looking at the basic layout of the main system components. Lots more to think about with getting the air into the thing and out into the inside of the vehicle
So what do we think the possibility of making something out of that little lot is?
Somebody will have tried this before...
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So - straight through the MoT last Thursday, no quibbles. What a relief - it's taken just over 2 years...
But it's all been worth it, Stinky has been transformed into a something that's an absolute joy to drive. No sound or thermal insulation yet, but the engine is soooo quiet! Nice. Thanks so much to all those who offered their advice and suggestions and helped get me to this point - couldn't have done it without.
All bearings, rings, camshaft, lifters etc etc replaced, so I'm taking it carefully and effectively running in a new '60s era engine. Even so plenty of power for what I need, I can really feel it wants to go, and it tackles the steep hills around me totally effortlessly. Feel the grin.
The recon R380 box I bought from another member on the forum and immediately dismantled to deal with the usual shortcuts is behaving impeccably. Although the stick could do with being about a yard shorter. Box remains a little tight like a new box should, but having done 100 miles now I can feel it's beginning to settle down nicely. And of course we still need to get to know each other a little more. Clutch very nice, not as heavy as I thought it might be, all standard parts. Haven't done anything with the transfer box yet, it's the original 1.2 from the 1997 donor vehicle. Having done only 61k miles the box only needed a tighten up and seals replaced. All good so far.
Setting the timing was a bit of a trial as no way could I get a line of sight on the pulley markings. Resorted to good old trial and error and gut feel and it seems fine, but I'll have another crack at that dreckly. Lots of fun and games to follow with Rovergauge and all of that.
Brakes slightly vague but adequate.
Next steps:
- Aircon
- Two-stage electric radiator fans
- Twin tank fuel system
- And I'll have a pop at the Disco cruise control system if I have time
Next expedition is due in September. Plenty of time for that lot...
Thanks once more for all the help - you know who you are 😉
Phill
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Ok thanks. I used the nuts and washers you suggested plus standard tin gasket but still have the problem. And a burned wrist from locating the problem. The goo worked fine on the downpipe to silencer box end, but then you'd expect it to I guess. Will go and anguish about what to do next....
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So I'm having trouble getting a decent seal between the manifold and downpipe on the drivers side - RHD. Do I understand correctly from:
On 3/13/2024 at 9:48 AM, FridgeFreezer said:Also replaced the gaskets with some copper-based goop recommended by Nige - V-Tech VT153 RTV
that you ditched the tin gaskets and used only the goo? And that works?
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Good grief it actually worked...
I used the video I flagged previously together with the cable stuff from here:
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge
Plugged it all in, fired up Rovergauge, pressed connect button and got this:
The fun stopped there because I have the exhaust manifolds off again, stopping up the leaks. I was able to see it responding to the throttle pedal and also able to wind the idle air control in and out
But I'm sure there will be more questions once the engine is running again...
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1 hour ago, AlWorms said:
Another option for people looking for a pre-built cable: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315264834112
Now if I weren't a cheapskate I might just go for one of those...
1 hour ago, AlWorms said:Also, if you get a USB OTG cable and have an android phone, you can install the android version
Brilliant. I've just been installing a swanky new ATOTO S8 head unit, so the option of having Rovergauge as a built-in on-board diagnostic tool just has to happen...
Thanks for flagging that up!
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Weeeell - this is what's on its way to me. Claims to be the genuine chip thingy:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186037739519
Fingers crossed
In the meantime I've been reading this,
http://www.g33.co.uk/pages/technical_fuel_injection.html
and for those getting to grips with all this check out the dropbox link there. Which leads me to this:
RoverGauge quick ref sheet.doc
Nice
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Ok - thanks. I found the exact same thing on ebay for £15 all in, so I'll go for that.
Had some time this afternoon and now have the Rovergauge software running, along with the Putty thing, and also FT_Prog. The last two have links on the github page and easy enough to find from there. I also found this vid useful:
Think that's going to be useful when the cable turns up.
I think the mists are clearing. Surely it can't be this easy...
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Probably a couple of weeks away from MoT now. My transplanted 3.9 makes the right noises and I'm going to be backing out of the shed and chugging up and down the farms tracks before very long to make sure nothing is falling off or catching fire. It's taken me twice as long to get to this point as I thought it would, but light is appearing at the end of the tunnel.
Question arises though as to what is going on in that black box, and is everything working correctly. I've trawled through lots of stuff and perhaps not surprisingly find I need to get to grips with Rovergauge. Nothing I can find on the forum at Dummies level, but please holler if there's anything I've missed.
The most relevant reference I can find is:
https://colinbourassa.github.io/car_stuff/14cux/
This is a brilliant resource written by the guy who put Rovergauge together. There's even the occasional word I can understand. So my first step is to get myself an interface cable. To quote directly, he says:
You'll need to get a 5-volt FTDI USB-to-serial converter cable. Either the TTL-232R-5V-WE or the TTL-232R-5V works fine. (If you don't get the wire-ended ("-WE") cable, you'll need to cut the header connector off the end before attaching your own connector.) There are also other manufacturers that build cables using FTDI chips; I've successfully tested the similar GearMo cable. When using one of these cables, the software will set the correct baud rate automatically.
Now. Not really understanding much of what I'm reading on the hardware/software side of things, I'm guessing my quickest route to something that works with the minimum of hassle will be the GearMo option? The link above takes me to US Amazon, but what I believe is the same thing is here:
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/FTDI/TTL-232R-5V?qs=OMDV80DKjRorBEBwmlJ4Pg%3D%3D
I'll get on and get that ordered this evening. And take a look at installing the software on my PC.
There will be more questions but hopefully some kind soul will be able to tell me I'm on the right track. However, I have it on good authority that:
On 5/30/2023 at 10:40 PM, AlWorms said:14CUX is fun.
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That doesn't sound too bad, but surprised at wear on the rings already. As I'm sure are you! No wish to try to teach to suck eggs, but make sure the main shaft is thoroughly cleaned out and if not done already it's worth replacing the pump as a matter of routine, or at least checking the insides...
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Sounds like the 3rd/4th synchro has failed?
I'd be suspecting one of the springs has broken or become dislodged which will allow the pins to fall out. I'd suggest not driving anywhere - you don't want broken teeth...
Here's my prime suspect:
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Well, I've used brass nuts on other vehicles before, but not the RV8...
7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:Aerotight nuts, and fitted Nord Lock washers
That sounds like a promising combination. Might try those with the standard tin gaskets and without the goo first...
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It's been a while. So I'm going with what I've got on the exhaust for the time being, but a couple of questions.
For obvious reasons I've used brass nuts on the manifold to downpipe joints - new gaskets of course. Getting some chuffing from the joints as the thing warms up - anybody able to suggest a max torque setting for the nuts? Not sure what they'll take and wimped out of tightening up too much.
I have a pool of water dripping from the downpipes to exhaust joint. New system, Britparts finest and a new ring. I see the workshop manual says to use a sealant - any recommendations on what product to use on that? Not something I've used this century...
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Ok! And it sounds like I should add air conditioned trousers to the jobs list too...
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That's great, thanks. We hit mid 30's in southern Italy in my old L200 last autumn, the aircon was doing a good job, but madam says I needn't think she's doing anything like that in Old Stinky without aircon.
So it sounds like using the Disco 1 system should be up to the job.
Thanks again
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Question asked because I'm looking to fit aircon to my 1987 110. I dismantled a 1997 Disco 1 3.9 insurance write-off a short while ago and have all the bits, and am looking at what it would take to repackage the HVAC unit to fit the 110. I've had it apart and it all looks doable, but before going any further it would seem sensible to ask how good the starting point is. It'll be something of a background job, but aiming to have a working system by the end of August ready for a long distance trip to hot places...
Anybody able to give a rating on it? Has it been done before?
Any thoughts welcome
Aircon on a budget
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Ok - I have the air cleaner eebie jeebies. Once I've worked out how I'm going to do the aircon I'll be returning to that. Off the road at the moment while I sort out the mechanics of how I'm going to implement the twin tank system but you have focused my attention!
I would never dream of travelling through south eastern Turkey with madam in the absence of air conditioning...
So today I did a mock up of how things might fit together and get a handle on what I can and can't re-use. There are a lot of pictures because I think others might want to look at all the bits and how it might fit together. Holler if you have opinions. Holler louder if you have any expertise in aircon systems. Also where you see I've done anything else "non-optimal" in my engine bay.
And before I forget...
Sorry if I sounded a bit sniffy but I have had occasion to buy some utter rubbish Chinese stuff in the past. On the more positive side if anybody has used he kind of systems that Car Builder Solutions sell I'd be interested in how that went.
Seen several vids on these on You Tube, they certainly look like good kit.
So starting from my chopped up Disco 1 HVAC unit, I'm going to step through all the bits so that it's easier to see what's what:
Low pressure evaporator to pump in pipe - notice the grey LP port. It's had a repair in the past but I would replace the rubber section in any case. So I can use that and alter the length of rubber section if I need to.
So now we've got hot high pressure vapour. The pipe I've left sticking out in the air connects to the condenser like so:
Just to be clear, it's the same pipe we saw in the last pic now attached to the condenser. With lots of ifs and buts I can certainly use the pump end and if the geometry were to permit also the condenser end. And of course the rubber section will be replaced so there are things that can be done with the length.
A general view of the condenser:
So hot high pressure vapour is coming in stage left, and comes out stage right as cool liquid under high pressure. Dryer in the middle which would be replaced as a matter of course and then the liquified refrigerant leaves stage left through the narrow pipe. Am I going to be able to use as is? Unlikely. I'll need one of those sticky out front grilles probably. Picture also serves to show the you need to clean your condenser once in a while. That's going to restrict the radiator behind it as well.
Just to show the high pressure, cooled, liquid refrigerant pipe as it attaches to the condenser in its original config. Same things apply about how the condenser can be configured.
Before we leave the front end, here's the condenser mounting frame offered up:
I know I've seen inverted L shaped support struts somewhere along the line, but I'd probably just make something ou of box section. Wouldn't I? The frame also carries a pair of fans that are always on when the aircon is on. I'd like to do that differently. The frame will need some adaption but it looks like a good start.
Now what...
Oh yes. Same pipe as before, the one leaving with high pressure cooled refridgerant shown just poked in under the RHS wing to get a first impression:
You can see it wandering about behind the power steering reservoir and coolant expansion tank. Might be able to do something with that. But:
It neatly has a coupling into the next section so an easier job to make up a bespoke pipe section to replace it. Which I'm guessing is highly likely. And in the next section you can see the high pressure port. Underneath that is the max/min pressure switch obscured in this pic by the old fixing clip. So we can see that all he clever bits are in the next and final section of pipe:
There's a lot going on and space under the bonnet is tight to show it, here's the bit we've just seen from the other side. A bit of a tangle going on and I've got the bonnet release coming through wrongly, but it's not bad.
And finally:
The same pipe going back to he big black box. Having run out of attention span I'll stop there for today, but thoughts, conclusions and plans coming soon.
Spoiler alert: I think I can make something of most of it...