Phill S
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Posts posted by Phill S
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27 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
LR used the same style propshaft for almost everything - your issue is getting the correct length, not power handling.
There's a very long and comprehensive thread somewhere on this forum listing all the propshaft lengths & part numbers.
Great - I'll go looking for that. Should have done a search before writing the words...
17 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:Better to look for an RRC rear prop, which should just bolt in
Sounds like good advice - thanks.
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An enforced absence for a time in Land Rover land, and more disruption looming. House re-decoration has apparently been required because her sister is coming to visit.
Anyway, a quick update on this one. The brackets as shown above didn't work out, because yes, you guessed it, the c/l of the old 2.5 NA is different to the RV8 - the whole engine and transmission system have to move inboard by about 1½".
So I ended up chopping the Disco 1 RHS bracket down to fit under the seat mount:
Then I chopped off the end of the original NAS gearbox side mount and welded to plate to act as the chassis mount, and an original 300TDi type mount to bolt to the gearbox
My old tin of Hammerite has gone a bit like toffee, but they'll do. Bolting all that together RHS:
And the LHS:
So that all sits very tidily:
All good, and about ½" clearance between the top of the gearchange remote and the front edge of the 300 TDi seat box.
Nice
Job done?
Probly not. This will get me going for the time being, but I'll keep an eye out for a reasonably priced 300 TDi cross member and the rest of the bracketry as in this pic from above...
On 5/2/2022 at 11:10 PM, Retroanaconda said:
I'll worry about all that again when it comes to fitting the exhaust.
Slightly off-topic, but I assume I'll need a 300TDi rear propshaft? That will be good for 195 ft.lb at 1,800 rpm, Is it going to take the max torque from the V8 though? 230 ft.lb at 3,100rpm? I'm assuming the Disco 1 front propshaft will work fine...
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And then I just read this thread!
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Leaks and bearings are easy enough to fix. Check out Mike's series of videos here:
I followed this approach to replace the seals last year, think they were about £30. For my own records I keep my pics here if you want to see how Mr Gumby did it:
Once set up and understanding what you're doing it'll be done in an afternoon. And you'll know it's been done properly....
P.S: We only eat the firstborn when the pasties have run out
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Don't know how to fix, but I have a good one from a low mileage 1987 ex-army model if any interest...
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Ok - thanks for that, I'll go around it one more time. Query though - isn't the purpose of the staple just to hold the release bearing in place while the gearbox goes on? Once the box is in the release bearing is fixed in place by the fork and the staple is redundant? If so plastic is fine?
Just a very minor thing - my quest to understand how things work. And how they go wrong...
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Dayam - I was sure I'd captured everything from that diagram
Thanks!
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It was all going so well, but then...
Rewind to where I came in on this thread. I'd made a mistake in my first pic, the clutch release bearing guide that came with the bellhousing was this:
Which sits very happily in place and I assume is FTC4720. It had been hiding in the wrong box.
I ordered up all the other bits in the diagram above. What could go wrong?
Actually, not all of the bits. The fork looks a little crusty, but scrubbed up is perfectly servicable. He's got a new bush:
And a squirt of copper grease.
Next a new spring clip and screw:
And we're looking good!
With everything else in place it's all looking like a plausible mechanism:
Except the spring isn't holding the fork in place 😕
That's not going to do anything. The fork just drops off 😞
What's gone wrong?
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I arrived at the point yesterday where I'm ready to fit the clutch release mechanicals in my 3.9 V8 + R380 combo. Great excitement.
The bellhousing is the later HRC2773 casting. This came with release bearing guide and fork like so:
That's not going to work is it. I believe the release guide is the one for the older V8 bellhousing. Doom and despondency. How could it take until now to twig that?
If I position it in what its working position would need to be:
Which gives me a rough idea of what I'm looking for. Maybe.
After a lot of chasing around I found this in the discovery 2 area:
That's from here:
https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/38569/38570/2967/38583
Now the illustration is wrong for what I want, but the part number is FTC4720. I find pictures of that like this one:
Looks like a contender? If that's the part I need, does it follow that all the other bits in the diag and link above are the ones I need to make my clutch do its clutchy thing?
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That would be great, thanks. Rather than remind I think I'd just prefer to make you feel bad if you forget, if that's ok. I've been trained in the art by an expert.
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14 hours ago, JeffR said:
salt spray in the winter is horrendous
Yeah - we get that down here in a different way 😉
14 hours ago, JeffR said:Proper brass n copper jobbies are the way to go
I guess I'll keep my old 19J one on the shelf and think again when the Britpart one dies.
This thread has moved a long way away from my original question, but has actually become very useful both to myself and anybody else figuring out what radiator to use. Is there a way to change the title?
In the meantime if any kind soul can offer a measurement of the thickness of the stock V8 rad (ESR203?) and particularly the 19J one (NTC6168) I'd be eternally grateful. I'll be needing to place an order with Mr Britpart quite soon...
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20 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I imagine it should be a fairly standard thing
You'd think so wouldn't you...
18 hours ago, Bowie69 said:RPI will sell you one for the paltry price of £19.50
Chancers. They do throw in a circlip though - that's got to be worth money. Although they are charging £1 postage...
15 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:If you don't have one already, a decent O-ring kit for the workshop is a good idea.
Yeah - I do, but there's always that niggling doubt thing when high pressure oil etc is involved...
On balance then, I'll probably get a 6 pack of them from Turners and pay the £8 carriage. I suppose I just feel a little bit irritated about it because I spent £400 with them not so long ago on all my gasket sets, hydraulic tappets etc etc etc.
Nemmind, the financial pain will stop soon. Won't it?
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Some notes that might be helpful to somebody and a question that somebody will have the answer to! Maybe....
Bearings and rings all in and the main block all ready, attention turns to the front cover. My engine has the later one:
Which has the crank driven oil pump:
I filled it up with vaseline in the hope that it might be easier to pull the oil through when turning the engine over by hand.
Now - in the first phase of this transplant I'm going without oil cooler. Just one of the short cuts I'm taking to get the truck on the road. I'll return to that over winter, and phase 2.
So, on the underside:
The brass plug to the left is M20 with a 1.5 thread that takes the place of the hose to the radiator. Set in with Dirko red. My fave high temp sealant. I've also removed the end cap on the casting where the pressurised oil runs up to the pressure switch and feed to the hydraulic tappet galleries and beyond. Tapped and fitted with an M18 plug. Then fitted with 1/8" NPT oil pressure sensor for the dash gauge.
Around the side:
Return from the oil cooler also plugged M20 x 1.5. Somebody did a nice job at the design stage to figure out an easy way of configuring the engine with or without oil cooler using suitable ports and clever dick hose connectors. I've removed the end cap from the oil supply gallery to the pump and tapped out to M20 x 1.5 so that I can use a hex head plug tapped out to 1/8" NPT to take the oil temperature sender. This is then measuring the temperature of the oil straight from the sump. Plug and sender perched on the top in the pic, you can see I've also drilled the plug on the inside to get the sender right into the oil flow.
That then leaves me with one stinky little problem, and this is where you come in. In between the sender and the brass hose plug sits the port for the oil pressure relief valve. Here's the guts of that:
Pretty standard item. Workshop Manual says to discard the O ring on the end cap and replace - no surprise there. I cannot find any trace of a part number for that guy! Even Ralph in Requests for Part Numbers can't find it. Spent a lot of time on the phone yesterday and ended up talking to Richard at Turner Eng who told me that Land Rover no longer support those parts. Hmm. Turners can sell me an O ring that is nominally identical and of good quality, they use this one in their recon engines that they sell. Trouble is they charge a minimum of £8 postage. A bit steep for an O ring.
Now, I know the Space Shuttle had trouble with its O rings, but this isn't rocket science. Is it? Am I going where no man has gone before?
Anybody able to come up with a part number?
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Evening Ralph. Wound up speaking to Mark at LRP. As you say access to all the diagrams, but the oil pressure relief valve parts are "blanked off". Spoke to Richard at Turner Eng who told me that Land Rover no longer support those parts. Hmm. Turners can sell me an O ring that is nominally identical and of good quality, they use this one in their recon engines that they sell. Trouble is they charge a minimum of £8 postage. A bit steep for an O ring.
I've got some notes to put up on my engine refresh thread that I will aim to do tomorrow, maybe another forum member will know of a solution...
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
P.S: This particular O ring is quite different to the one on the low pressure light switch
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Thanks Ralph - I'll look at the oil pressure switch fittings tomorrow to compare with what came off when I dismantled...
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I've run out of ideas on trying to find a part number for this little perisher.
My front cover has the crank driven oil pump - like this:
Here's the parts of the oil pressure relief valve:
and I want to replace the O ring on the end cap. Would appreciate a steer on a part number for that
Thanks - Phill
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2 hours ago, DavidW said:
I've been running the Britpart plastic ended 19J type rad with built in oil cooler with my 3.9 v8 for a few years and it hasn't failed yet.
Bingo! I think that's the one I want. Any chance you could measure the thickness of the matrix for me?
I dragged out my radiator collection this morning:
Left to right:
My original 2.5 NA diesel one ESR79 48mm thick
The 19J one I've been getting prices to re-core NTC6168 - with oil cooler - 65mm
My Disco donor one 51mm
So yours must be NTC6168?
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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:
Is it worth getting another quote
You're right - I'd recoiled in horror.
Called Ken Allen - they reckoned around £400 plus VAT
I feel myself drifting towards the rocky shores of Britpart...
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Well personally speaking I'm not fussed about what it's made of as long as it works and is reliable. I've got a V8 3.9 EFi and I'm going to hot places - and the UK is getting hotter too!
So I'm looking for the fattest fella I can find. That doesn't cost a fortune. And don't want the integral oil cooler. The regular 3.5 carb models seem to be ESR76 and ESR203 (parts book p596) - anybody know the difference between those? I'm assuming ESR76 is skinnier - Island are listing them as also for the 2.5NA diesel:
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/radiator-petrol-25na-britpart-esr76-esr79-p-6013.html
That's the engine I'm replacing so I have that radiator already?
I'll give Island a ring later, but any other contenders I should be thinking about?
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Haven't come across that - will take a look around. Just wanted to be in with a chance of actually being able to see when underneath the thing! And didn't fancy a white chassis for no good reason...
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Yeah, I'd not come across them before and just wondered...
45 minutes ago, miketomcat said:mine is a supeed granted is for a 200tdi
How long have you had it? Think I'll go a different way, but it would be useful to know how its worked out...
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That's for a re-core. Followed up with the comment that it's a lot more expensive than it used to be.
Drifting off topic now, but I'll probably go for the Britpart V8 all metal one. There don't seem to be any other affordable options...
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Thanks both, I'll do some more homework and get back...
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1 hour ago, western said:
I had my currently fitted radiator core replaced by Newquay Radiators at Roche Industrial estate in 2020, cost £146 core, painted & pressure tested, if your rad has brass end tanks, might be worth a phone call.
They quoted me £600 plus vat for a brass ended plus integral oil cooler ex 19j rad :-/
44 minutes ago, Maverik said:full aluminium radiators if used hard they can be prone to cracking
Interesting - didn't know that
Think I'll go with this one...
2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:Run
It was just a thought. Somebody must be buying them though...
RV8 engine mount position for a 1987 110
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
This one?