Kim Horsevad

This could be of some concern. The newer injection pump delivers fuel at a much higher pressure (up to 600bar for some 300tdi injection pumps.) than the earlier injection pumps (up to 150bar). The higher pressure could result in damage to the injectors. If a fault occurs in an injector, thereby creating an uneven spray pattern, this could damage the piston. The uneven spray pattern, and following uncompleted combustion, would show as increased black smoke.

Sorry if I sound rude, but if its on the pressure side that is a disaster waiting to happen. If you have ever seen the effects of a high pressure hydraulic hose fracturing you would want to get a proper hose made up.... ASAP!

Seriously dont want to argue with the expert in the field, but every publication and textbook I have read on the subject has had extensive text about chosing the right gas for the job - just as chosing the right kind of electrode is important in stick welding (hopefully this gives some kind of meaning in english...) For what I know pure CO2 is used for welding items of structural importance where deep penetration is required, and gives a more convex bead shape. Pure CO2 is normally avoided in normal industrial (non structural) welding, due to allround finish and look, and because the convex bead shape leads non-expirienced welders to use more wire than strictly nessesary. Pure CO2 (on normal "mild steel" ) will also produce more welding fumes than an CO2/argon mix, BUT the CO2 welding will still be the strongest. Maybe this is of almost zero importance when welding automotive repairs and fabrication - i cant say for sure. Never had any formal traning in welding as my daytime work is teaching and sysadmin'ing... Also been told - but have not been able to find any sure confirmation on this - that adding an amount of helium to the argon/CO2 mixture would result in better penetration. Always used pure CO2 myself.

Dont know the product names of your shielding gas in England, but it will be somewhat easier to learn to weld using argon/co2 mixture. Less spatter and better looking weld beads. When the day comes where your welding really is supposed to be extra strong use pure co2. The weld will propably not look just as good, but the weld will be stronger. 10 -12 litres pr minut works for me too, btw.

The stickers on the truck is from "Bertelsen Off-Road Shop", but the truck - or the couple driving it - has nothing to do with either Jan or Per Bertelsen.. The couple driving the truck bought a whole lot of spare parts from Bertelsen and got a fairly good price in exchange for fitting some stickers to their car. Have you meet Per Bertelsen in some international competition? Even though the "Bertelsen Brothers" has a reputation of being the wildest and wickest Off-Roaders in Denmark I wouldnt have thougt they were entering competitions in the same level as the competitions you have shown pictures from... They (the Bertelsen Brothers) are - as far as I know - the only ones in Denmark to have fittet Portal Axles to a Land Rover. People dont do much custom fabrication here in Denmark. Prepping a truck is mostly done by bolt-ons... Sorry, no pics of the mountings or the build. And the truck is propably in Russia on route to China by now... I didnt have time for photographing - we were working night and days to get the truck finished before their departure date. Lost three days due to a new but faulty timing belt idler pulley. The pic shown was taken just before the boarded the ferry! But I can try to explain the mountings. Four pieces (two in each side) of 10mm x 80mm flat bar were welded to the main tube and bolted to the truck using the four stock mounting holes. This accounts for four of the eight bolts. Furthermore another two pieces (one in each side) of 10mm x 80mm flat bar were welded to the main tube and bolted to the chassis rails using the Jate Ring mounting hole and another drilled and reinforced hole. This accounts for the last four bolts.

Why not make one yourself? Designing a front bumper is a fun bit of fabrication. A bumper needs to be strong and reliable - thats the main reason I like to make such things myself, so you know that it will hold up to some serious use. Just for inspiration - here is a picture of a front bumber (turbular design) I made for a couple of friends who set out on a 10 month overland journey. Main tube is 65mm diametre with wall thickness of 9mm. The lower front bend (which doubles as recovery point) is 25mm solid round bar, the other tubes are 30mm diametre with 5mm wall thickness. Bumber is attached to vehicle with 8 M12 12.9 High Tensile bolts. It aint gonna come off in a hurry...

BTW it is quite possible to repair the surface of the old swirvels with fibreglass padding. It will need to be ground to a perfect round shape, but then it will last just as well as the other alternatives.

Yes: W+ : rev counter B+ : Main output - normally connected directly to the positive terminal on starter solenoid. From there there should be a thick gauge cable to the positive terminal on the battery + : Not to be used in a normal LR setup D+ : Charge warning lamp. Actually the charge warning lamp is connected to the positiv terminal on the battery (from a ignition switched supply) and the D+ terminal on the alternator. When the engine is started current flows from the battery through the charge warning lamp through D+ on the alternator and from there through the windings to vehicle earth/ground/negative. This current is needed for the alternator to exide itself (field windings) so it can begin to produce current itself. When the alternator begins producing current the D + is producing current, and therefore sending current to the charge warning lamp. The charge waring lamp will then receive positiv current from both battery and D+ and will therefore not light up.

Again thanks for the reply! It could probably be a viable option to have one sent form Alfred Murray or similar. Will have a go at locating one from the scrapyard first. Will post a couple of pictures and description when I finally get it sorted out!

Many thanks for the reply! I suppose the best move then would be to go to the scrapyard and start looking at the differnet BMW, Mercedes and VW... I know - from pictures on the internet - the generally look of a ZF74; but is there any identification numbers (or similar) stamped on the casing of the pump? Btw... Thorougly impressed by your Ladoga effort. I suppose you have one of Milemarkers chain-driven "Competetion" setups?

Hello! Been reading this forum with great interest for a while. I live in Denmark, and own a couple of different Land-Rovers. My main vehicle is a HiCap 200tdi. I am considering changing my winch (which is a Warn 8000) to a hydraulic winch. The hydraulic winch would either be a homebuilt project (have both hydraulic motor and the control valves, - just need to sort out the gearing) or a milemarker (read a lot of really good reviews of these winches) Now, I know that people will say that hydraulics is slow (Unless you go to extremes in your setup), but line speed is of almost complete irrelevance for my use. I do not compete, but use my Landrovers for what they were built for! When I get stuck it is mostly in really muddy terrain, normally with a heavy load and probably with a heavy trailer behind... Therefore the slow longevity and security of a hydraulic winch would be just fine. Main problem is: I need to find some suitable hydraulic pump for the setup. Everybody seems to be talking about the ZF74 pump; but if I were to buy such a pump from new in Denmark it would be ridiculously expensive. Therefore I would like to find one from a scrapyard or similar. Does anyone know which cars the ZF74 pump has been used in? (The ZF74 is a normal servo steering pump, and is manufactured primarly for that use). Some say BMW and Mercedes, but only certain models. Does anyone know exactly? The milemarker states max flow at 13 liters per minute and max pressure at 120 bar (1740 psi), but the Saginaw series 7 pump (fitted on the Hummers equipped with milemarker) has a max pressure of just 100 bar (1450 psi). Does anyone know of another servo pump with similar characteristic? From which car? Hoping for some answers!