mad_pete

So this is it. Table is cast iron clamped on the (solid) metal column. Have about 70mm to fit something underneath think i I have to lift near the column to stop it binding . couple of threads in the table I could maybe connect to. and my £1.04 ebay linear actuator is on its way.

It's more a project than need. I would lock the table with existing clamp after moving it.

So I plan to do a combination of new grommets, magic tape. maybe a cable gland possibly some glue and maybe some extra padding. Also used various sized plastic trim tabs and bolts for the holes. Put some foam padding in the bulkhead section as I'm not sold on the sound proofing powers of thin plastic. Once the grommets turn up I'll do the after shots and prepare to enjoy what I expect will be a barely perceptible difference in driving experience.

so slow but sure progress (one out of two). Bought a nibbler and that certainly had a good chew. Found it very got at cutting, cornering not so much.... Still bit of edging can hide all the teeth marks. This photo explains the strange fit of my vent on this side. Originally had the centre screw vents and someone swapped to side screws. I can see where it's marked out and then drill somewhere quite different. Still another hole sorts that. Other side a more traditional drill and file, that went a lot better. and onto test fitting Just waiting for John Craddock to get on and get me some grommets and the rest can go back on I think.

Not quite a factory finish and the camera is a little unkind in its ability to highlight the imperfections but call that job done.

Bought this one instead. Progress 1s, doesn't have the gears but very nice none the less.

Super cool. Watching with great interest. I have the auto and would like to make more of center console area and just refreshed my wipers and was wondering can the binky upgrade be done. Also looked at heater upgrades but just refreshed the standard one on mine at the moment.

It only needs the glass out and cleaning or replacing so I was hoping for maybe £20 to refurb. New seems about £80.

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It’s the whole perminter is rolled over. I’ve tried gentle prising but it’s not going for it.

The front wraps round, needs prising off and then pressing back afterwards.

Got a Elliott progress 1s pillar drill and it’s very nice but a powered table lift wouldn’t go amiss. Looking at getting one or two actuators 65 Cm long with maybe 35 Cm extension to power it up and down. Anybody used these and can recommend where to get them ? I’m looking for £75 ish if possible. Also if anyone has suggestions on how to make a lift that’s welcome too.

Mine seems to involve prising the outer ring off. I had a go but it doesn’t seem to want to bend out and I’m into breaking something territory with the amount of force I’m starting to use. I’ll post a picture.

I bought a Smith’s 52mm voltmeter for the dash but the glass is clouded a bit on the inside. Anyone know a refurb company for these gauges please ?

All, I know there have been some very unfortunate cases where an electrical short has started a fire. I have my dash out at the moment and redid some of the electrical tape. Is it worth putting any more protection in ? Maybe a thin rubber mat on the bulkhead in the middle above the fuse box or should it be ok ?

Got an arc welder and had a go but it was tricky to line up the weld line so tried Mig and I think it’s on. Second ever weld for me for both types. Apperantly practising is a thing but I’ll work on that later. :-). This is the arc. This is the mig with some grinding. It’s a little awkward to grind so it’s not totally flat. just like in the picture (sort of). but it’s on and I think that will do.

Thanks, I have gone and got two and they are are nice. What eye protection do you use with them and how do you store them please? It seems to push up my safety glasses more than I would like and can you just hang them in the garage or should they be in a box ?

Surely if the ignition lead is going to break anywhere, in the middle of a clean dry fully equipped garage isn’t a bad option ?

I didn’t buy it. There was some chuck wobble and the missing top cover made it a bit expensive. So time to pick a premium budget new one from somewhere I think.

It’s up for £425

I did go and see it today and seems solid although I do t really know what I’m looking at. Drill speed is 48 to 2470 rpm as it has the in head readuction gears so that may cover most things. The drill head had some movement at slow speeds but looked very solid apart from the missing belt cover.

Looking at getting a pillar drill. There is an Elliot Progress near me that seems in good order that would need a belt guard and chuck guard and an e stop button fitting but that’s not too hard or I could machine mart or a Axminster. My budget is up to about £400. I won’t be doing a lot on it should I admit to myself I just need a hobby spec machine ?

It is but as I tighten it’s starting to deform the foam so it doesnt need to be as tight as it is. My bulkhead and heater are from different years so maybe that’s not helping.

I have Range Rover 4.2 v8 in my 90 and the heater pipes seem slightly larger than the defender heater matrix is expecting. It’s difficult to get both pipes connected to matrix together. Is the defender slightly smaller ? Should I pop a reducer in the path to the matrix. If I tighten the clips tight it doesn’t leak but doesn’t seem ideal.

Okay spoke a bit too soon when I fully tighten the heater it starts bulging the foam. Not too bad but I think I’ll need a spacer for the top bolts, I don’t want to cut the foam about.