turbonutter

Trying to wire up my buggy and im using aa rrc loom/diagrams / clocks Looking at the haynes diagrams is shows 138/ electronic speedometer and instrument controls ? Whats this ? iv wired the oil and batt lights but everthing else runs through the control thing Any help ?

another option we have a 78 2 door that iv fitted a mazda 3.5slt into , bolts straight onto the v8 chassis mounts

iv got one that i used to use when i was drifting , i was putting 215, 45, 17 tyres on 10" wide rims 150 psi every time works great , never needed to use it of mud tyres

and the rear !!!!

got similar on mine

think its all about what u want and how much u want to spend bud for most green lane stuff a standard truck will do but that never stopped anyone i found the more i got into off roading the more hardcore things got , i think the best way is to use your truck and when u find things that limit what u want to do then improve rock sliders , winches roll cages ect are all part of a fully kitted truck i think , not all needed tho 37" boggers , mad suspention , portal axles ect was another step for me my truck (when finished ) is well over the top for green lanes ect , but iv built my truck because i can and enjoy building stuff

being a 5 door u may have more of a problem with rubbing , best thing is 2 get sum arches and get the grinder out , take as much as u can out the rear doors

i should think with 4" lift and 1" body lift they should fit i had a 4" lift and 2" body lift on my disco with 37" boggers , mine is a 3 door and the arches have been cut lots tho u may have to cut abit from the arches is it a 5 or 3 door ? my missis has 33" on her 3 door rrc with a 4" lift and they fit ok , just need to trim the arches at the bottom corners using 30mm spacers u shouldnt have a problem with steering

what a nice looking disco! Can i ask you where you found your front lights/indicators! is it plug and play? They look magnificant on a disco. cheers think the lights came from inovation 4x4 , i have looked on there web site to find them but cant may need to call them to find out

the motor will just wire in on your manual loom no probs if u can keep the early 300 stuff without the edc electronics ect its simple make sure the auto box is the valve type without the ecu keeps it even simpler the only thing u may want to wire in is the starter inhibitor switch on the box ( stops u starting it in gear ) didnt bother on mine tho iv still got the manual peddle box in mine , dont think its that hard to change over , just havent done mine yet brakes stay the same swapping the engine/box is pretty simple if u can use spanners ! i did 2 motor/ boxes out and one back in in a weekend i know what your saying bout commercials , bit different this is my work in progress

how do bud iv done this not to long ago mine was a 300 manual commercial , and i fitted a 200 auto very easy to do , if u stay with the 300 tdi . i had to weld the 200 tdi engine mounts into my truck there was no wireing to do as the auto box hasnt got a ecu if u get a complete auto truck u will have every thing needed , but it realy was a simple job to do if u do it id say leave the engine and auto box together , splitting them and trying to fit together in the truck can damage things if not lined up

ill second that , tyres and right foot as soon as u put big tyres on rover diffs are rubbish i did 7 diffs in 6 months ish , never broke a cv of shaft tho i was on 35" procomps now on 37" boggers , blew 3 diffs in one weekend with the boggers i thought about ARB lockers ect but other things will start breaking , u get in2 big money to upgrade cvs , shafts ect know what u mean bout ment to be cheep fun but it never works like that

yep tryed different things with it , but nothing think ill pull it apart and check all looks ok , but think it will be something electric as the thermal cut out light is on

iv never used a plasma so dont realy know what im doing but it seems to have good air flow , if i power it up and hit the air switch it will blast air from the nozzle theres 4 lights on the front of it

any body got one of these ? been given one to try and get one working , from what iv found on the net it has a thermal cut out that is indicated by a yellow light found the instructions and it says , if the yellow light illuminates (with out the red light ) its cut out but this is showing a red light , cant find what this means ? any one help ? know any tests i can do ?

lol , not for engines !!! the tbox is easy to lift in on my own , but for engines its needs to be a crane iv never just removed the gear box yet , always been engine and g/box together

the way i do it is to lift it in by hand i simply roll it on to my chest , led on my back under the truck then lift it up and on , if u dont get it right first time its a pain its the way iv done all mine and much eaiser than buggering about with straps ect , just gota put your back into it !!

spot on bud B)

didnt know that the boxes would fit either , learnt somthing today

id stay with the 200 bud , i changed my 300 manual to a 200 auto and imo its a beter engine , revs alot beter the 300's bugger heads think u would need to change the box to a r380 and u would have to cut the engine mounts of the chassis and weld the 300 one on

iv been looking around to find some johny joints , anyone know where to get theses in the uk ?

u guys at HOFS have been the most helpful with my build so far and i must say the engineering iv seen is first class a mate knows someone with 303's on a range rover , so i will be going to see the truck in the next few days to see what they have done with the panhard i hope this is the end off my probs and i can get on with my build

if u do find the pics please post them up , be good to see how people have done theres

that makes sence , iv been looking at my missis landy and the panhard is not parallel to the axle but is to the drag link that make it even worse on my build tho , if i fit the panhard rod behind the PAS box it makes it parallel to the axle not drag link i realy cant see where to mount the panhard rod now it will fit under the pas box , where the old landy panhard rod bracket fitted to the pas box but it will make the rod shorter on the axle end does it need to be mounted above the hockey stick mount or can it fit to one side of it ? starting to think making a triangle 3 link like the rear would be easier to centre the axle only thing with this is id have to make the 3rd link fit under the axle as iv no room on top i know this puts stress on the axle casing but as there portals there thick casings so with some extra brackets may work ?

how do bud no iv not , i started to make up brackets from thin tin but stopped half way it realy looks to close to the diff to start with as iv keep the ride hight low the axle i think is 6" from the chassis so its all tight in there if i was to raise the the ride hight then id have more room