Steve 90
-
Posts
1,310 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Steve 90
-
-
Get ya multi meter out and put one lead on the poss of the battery and the other on the end of the stud on the solenoid that the battery lead goes on too, then crank the motor and see what the meter reads while its cranking. If its more that a few hundred mV's (about .5v as a rule) then there is a poor connection. If this is ok swap the multi meter lead on the battery to the neg terminal and the other multi meter lead on to the starter body and crank it again. Again if it shows more than a few hundred mV's there is a bad connection on one of the earths. If there is a high voltage keep moving the lead back towards the battery and testing it till the voltage drops and you will find your poor connection. If they all seem ok then the problem is inside the starter. Don't forget that the brush's in the starter don't only supply power to the armature but the low tension windings in the solenoid earth through them so poor/dirty brush's can cause solenoid problems, tho saying that the solenoids are also very prone to causing problems. Hope that makes sence!
Reason I say this is more often than not when we get a new starter back in a shortish period of time its usually due to a poor connection somewhere causing low voltage at the starter and then the amps soar and cook your new starter just the same as the one it replaced so these days we always check. Couple of years back we had a transit that had had 4 starters at the main dealers in the first 3 years of its life, Checked it through, Bad crimp on one of the leads which we fixed, Another new starter and its still going strong today.
also might be worth checking for a voltage drop on the activator lead (small one on the solenoid) as ive seen a low voltage on these stop the solenoid drawing in properly and causing a lazy starter, Think there is a relay for this behind the fuse box plate!
If this dont make sence (which I doubt it does) give me a call and I'll try to explain better.
-
So it does, didn't really look too hard at the screen shots sorry. Keep us informed Simon, I would be very happy to trial it for you.
Pikey, are you trying to get free stuff again!
-
I assume when you say failing to engage you mean it spins but doesn't turn the motor James? rather than just clicking and not spinning!
-
This sounds like a solenoid problem. Perhaps removing the solenoid - take out the plunger and spring, then flood with a thin oil such as 3-in-1 might cure the problem.
Les.
Probably not a solenoid problem as the fork which engages the starter gear is operated by the solenoid and it has to engage the gear before it can travel far enough for the electrical contacts to meet and spin the starter. Thats why they are called a pre engaged starter because they engage before they spin. If the starter turns it must be moving far enough.
When they just spin without turning the motor its usually (unless its stripped a patch of teath off the ring gear) the clutch in the drive gear U/S, They dont like water at the best of time's but they aint big money to get one fitted. may aswell get the rest of it looked at, cleaned and checked out at the same time.
-
Starting handle, 100% reliable!!!!!
-
I called up about the price..... £355
Apparently the firstset the sold, the guy rang up and said he had them fitted in 40 minutes!!
By the time you get tube, sheet etc etc then take the hours of work into account that aint half bad. I made mine, got the main tube fitted in less than an hour then took best part of a weekend makeing and welding on brackets for the headlamp pannels, inner wings, top's, sides and wheels archs, if I added it all up they probably cost me more than that!
-
Looks like a nice neat solution.................
but where's the fun in that hey?
:DThe fun is in the fact that you can fit them with a lot less hastle then go to the pub instead of p*****g around in the workshop and looking through scrap bins for materials, But when some of us dont do any work all week its a different story aint that right Pikey!
-
Those look a nice bit of kit, all done and dusted in one buy and a few hours fitting! Anybody know how much?
-
OIIIII Weeble. It's going to be hard enough as it is without you setting me up!! I'm sure James has set the course up thought that there might be some older people co driving and made it suitable for them :D
Yes James is very good like that, He knows that Pikey is a pensioner, not to steady on his feet these days and always set's it out to be gentle on him!
-
Ive recently bought a set of 15x10 Rockathons from Niel Redpath,got 35" Krawlers on em,I think When you find you still got good steering lock you will be happy with the extra offset.
The big advantage I recon over Mach 5 beadies is they were designed from the outset as a
beadlock wheel and dont leak, so no tubes to get "phantom " punctures.
I'll agree that they dont leak, Put mine together without sealant, Just a bit of tyre soap and none of them leak!
Alan, As far as I know mine are std backspace which are 3 3/4" and it works really well apart from they stick out about an inch either side of my trailer! Thought you were after 3" backspace The way I understood it to work would have been a shollower inner dish and 1 1/2" wider overall, not narrower! Quite possible I could be wrong tho, The Mrs says I usually am!!!!
-
What offset did you go for after?
-
Spoke to many of the contacts mentioned, (thanks), some didnt reply to messages or e-mails, others did but cannot make the delivery date. Settled for as set from Niel at Redpath Tyres and they will be be here next week.
Phone Devon to order the tyres and someone beat me to it. So now I am looking for a set of 5 Boggers 37 x 13 on 16" rim without the extra £100 per tyre to cover air freight.
Good choice Alan, They really are a nice wheel and I was keen on them because they dont have the open spoke design to get stuff through and rip calipers off. (plus Niel had them in stock and it was gona be months before I could get Mach 5's)
-
What diffrence has it made having a 10inch rim over an 8inch rim? Does the tyre roll less on the rim? greater width? i just want to make sure before calling devon and changing my order
Ive been using standard volvo rims with beadlock rings welded to the outside im guessing they add on another 1 inch, they have been ok with the iroks so far.
cant rember how wide a standard volvo 303 rim is, anyone know?
Thanks
Chris
Chris, The tyre sits much fuller and believe it or not larger (only slightly) diameter on the 10 inch rim. Seem to get much less roll and the side wall seems to just look much better when you let the pressures down, Before they looked like they were trying to peel back over on themselves and force themselves off the rims whenever you went over a tree stump or rock, Now they just flex nicely and form to the shape of whatever your going over. They also leave a full width tread pattern behind you where as before they only left the middle bit when blown up and only the edge's when aired down (except on very soft ground obviously).
I'm really pleased with the change and wouldn't run them on 8 inch rims again, I'm sure they grip better on the 10 inch rim but that could be just my head telling me that coz the wheels were so much money.
-
Also should have said my tyre's are 13 inchs wide and I used them on the Tay on an 8 inch rim, they really were not happy and they seem a completely different tyre now they are on a 10 inch rim.
-
Alun, Try Niel Redpath Redpath Tyres. Just bought a set of Rock a thons from him in a 10x16 beadlock with a 3 3/4 backspace. A really nice wheel and look the same as a modular (only a lot thicker steel) so you wont get problems with stone's etc through the spokes! He had them in stock and posted them out next day delivery. think you can get them made to any backspace you want.
-
Ralph - don't ask that one! its got ram assist for starters
Doh, If id have waited that would have saved me spending hours with my one finger typing trying to explain!
:D -
But why do you feel your vehicle needs a larger capacity reservior ? the pump will have a flow rate & pressure to suit the steering box, upping the capacity won't make any difference, it'll just be like overfilling the engine oil.
Because I have Hydro assist steering using a ram that does not have equal fluid capacity in both directions. This causes a large difference in fluid level from one lock to the other. The standard ZF reservoir will just about cope on level ground but once you get on steep ground it can sometimes starve the pump. I have tried putting "y" pieces in the pipe's and using a second reservoir, which makes it a lot better but if you spend any time at odd angles the pots don't refill equally and it again causes problems. Ive tried altering the "Y's" and moving the reservoirs but it doesn't seem to get much better. Ideally a tall narrow tank with the outlet straight out the bottom would be best to lessen the effect of the side slope's etc but I think just having the extra volume of the early type tank will be enough.
-
In need of a larger P.A.S. reservoir. The early Range rover/90 one has been suggested and looks ideal but I cant find one and Land rover seem to have discontinued it! so does anyone know of anything similar that I could find easily in a breakers yard?
I would make one but as always I have a 1001 jobs to do before the 3 peaks and buying the ideal thing would save me an evenings fabrication and probably a couple of days hunting round for materials!
Cheers.
Steve.
-
Thanks guys, It was another excellent weekend. I think I prefer these fun weekends, Really enjoyed being able to watch a few others, Take our time, Have a bit of fun, laugh at each other at every opportunity and just stopping and putting the kettle on everytime we fancied a brew is nice. Cheers to James, Mike, Jase, Tim, Mark, Bish and anyone I may have forgot for putting it on, we had a cracking time. Also thanks to Rich for doing a damn fine job and cooking my burger to perfection on Saturday night.
:lol: -
apparently even Pikey is thinking of coming along, isint that right Steve, Kris? and ......................... :lol: :lol: Craigy aint gona be happy with you!
As for Pikey, who knows. I would love to come and do the event but since it was first discussed Pikey has gone very quiet and we get the impression he's holding back for some reason. Trouble is I need to organize the day off work and it is probably too late now. Shame he dont want to come coz I was looking forward to it!
-
Anybody know how these compare to ashcroft shafts and C.V's?
-
Ive fitted a couple of sets of their weld on beadlocks and they have been fine, Perfectly round so maybe Chris had a bad set. Also used their Hydro assist Ram for my steering and that is spot on, Works great! Cant fault what they have done for me.
-
Cheers for that guys, I will get a plug and shorten it!
-
As long as I keep the screening intact and use screened connectors can I shorten the coaxial lead on my Garmin GPS ariel?
I am aware that you are not able to shorten coaxial ariels on a CB as it will effect the performance of the arial. I don't think there will be the same trouble with the GPS arial but I thought I'd just check.
I really could do with shortening it somehow as there is about 5' of spare lead!
Thanks,
Steve
wing bars
in International Forum
Posted
To be honnest the first thin I thought was they look the business but i'd need to make some better mountings and maybe fit some triangulation (which I built into mine when I made them ) but you have the basic shape, brakets, pannels and tube work already done for you which is the bulk of the time! Also I wouldn't be too keen on attaching them to the bulkhead so I'd try and do something different there!
I think the real question is how strong do you build them? I gave my wing rails a real heavy bang on the muddy truckers into a solid tree at the bottom of a long drop. It bent the wing rail and pushed the cage (windscreen hoop) back a bit but it was easily repairable. I was glad I hadn't built them any stronger as transmitting all that force straight into the chassis may have caused damage that was a bit more of an issue to repair. Think there is a fine line between something that is built strong enough to stand up to heavy rubbing/brushing against tree's but will also bend enough under a heavy impact not to cause more serious chassis damage!