EggNChips

Is it misfiring, with associated smoke out the back end? If so, simple things first, air and fuel filter, then check the no1 injector for chaffing.

Certainly sounds like seized calipers, check the slides are nice and free, then try levering back the pad and see how easy the piston retracts. I personnally wouldn't even bother trying to rebuild them. Get a couple of Fleabay, it'll be just as cheap and a lot less hassle. If it is the IRD box, deal with it as a matter of urgency, the longer you leave it the worse it's gonna get and it really isn't that difficult.

If you haven't lost any fluid then sounds like master cylinder seals???? Unusual to go so suddenly.

1. Sounds like a bearing, you need to repair it first, then run as 2wd if you don't want it to happen again. 2. Piece of p.... If you are handy with the spanners. Only difficult bit is getting the heat exchanger off undamaged. I rebuilt mine for £35 and I paid a local engineering firm to remove the bearing race. If i hadnt been in such a hurry i could have done it for half that. 3. Seized calipers? My brakes are certainly pretty good. Don't give up, it's an 11 year old car. 10 years ago many cars wouldn't make it to this age without being a pile of scrap.

It's usually because twin filament bulbs have been fitted where it should only be single. This shorts out and backfeeds to the ecu fooling it into thinking that the brake pedal is pressed. Obviously this is not in your case. A failing bulb won't do this, only an incorrect bulb, e.g. twin filament instead of a single. Glad you got it sorted tho

Definitely won't be anything serious, but none the less annoying Mines got 180k and is still sweat as a nut. My best guess is that it is the TPS or ECU, I cannot think of anything else that would cause the engine to drop to idle without associated misfire. I still think there is mileage in investigating the brake light system tho, because it is a no expense thing to be eliminated. I would disconnect the brake light switch and remove the stoplight bulbs and see if this cures the fault. Should only take 10 mins and will eliminate it for sure. The fact that it happens only on light throttle suggests a possible problem with the EGR valve or MAP sensor, but I would have thought these would make it misfire, not just return to idle.

Yes it definitely will affect the egine management. The system uses the brake light switch as a plusibilty check against the Throttle position sensor, just in case the TPS went short circuit. You therefore couldn't use left foot braking with this system as the activation of the brake would override the throttle sensor. There are reports that putting in the wrong bulb into the taillight/stoplight can cause the throttle to stop working as current feeds back to the ECU fooling it into thinking that the brake is pressed.

It's not clear from your post if you're suffering a misfire or if the engine is returning to idle. Does the engine management light come on when you have a problem? Yes, a common problem is the needle lift sensor on the no1 injector. Check for chafed or broken wires. This can be unplugged and the engine will run with reduced power, but it will eliminate / confirm if it has a problem. Wiring into FIP can become corroded and MAF sensor has a finite life. Always check the obvious first, Fuel filter and air filter. If in doubt change them, they only cost a few quid and it's amazing how much trouble they can cause if they are blocked. TPS sensor going is pretty uncommon I think, but can happen. Other thing is brake light switch as this is used for plausibility with TPS.

Realistically the IRD has to be intact to run FWD. You can remove the pinion and buy a blanking plate of fleabay for abot 20 quid, or you could rebuild the IRD youself. To run FWD just remove both propshafts and the VCU.

Yeah it is there to reduce vibration. From my 2nd year engineering science, they use the principle of angular momentum just like a flywheel.

Is that connector block not for the seatbelt pre-tensioners?????

Sounds like everything is ok, VCU's are not cheap (around 300 quid i think) so I would only replace it if it's not operating. If it aint broke, don't fix it!!!.

on front and rear propshafts, if they line up you have a problem, if they don't your VCU is operating correctly.

All Feelanders stiffen up on full lock, it's a characteristic of the vehicle and doesn't in itself show that there's a fault with the vehicle. best thing to do is using a paint pen, draw a line on the two parts of the VCU and drive some figure of eights and see if the lines still line up. The IRD will only be knackered if there is some symptom, e.g. teeth in the IRD oil or whining, banging,ect coming from the transmission.

I agree I've got a 99 Freebie di and it's a great car, but I've spent at least some time every weekend fixing it.

Yeah loads of places, Fleaybay, www.island4.4.com, as a start. Think they are about 40-50 for the pair.

Probably not. Could be stripped teeth and shot bearings. Only difficult thing about repairing an IRD box is getting the heat exchanger plate off without damage. If you have the ability to remove the IRD then you could rebuild it yourself.

Just returned from Rennes in my Freelander and opted for AA euro cover. Thankfully I didn't need it. Good luck with your repair.

Depends if the cable is now jammed as it was with the window on my Freebie. Just get a S/H regulator off fleabay and your problems will be solved. Mine only cost 25 quid all in.

On a W it will probably be the L Series diesel, this is a bulletproof engine. Only problem is the fuel pump pully spinning on the shaft. No Head gasket problems or anything. Best place for parts is ebay or Island4x4.co.uk. Often cheaper than the traders on Ebay.

Will be the cable snapped. You can get repair kits on Fleabay for about 25 quid or get a s/h one for about the same cost. Only takes about 20 mins or so to change.

The 2 main flaws with the Freebie are the VC/IRD and if it's petrol, the head gasket. I would only recommend getting one if you're willing to get your hands dirty. I've got a diesel one and absolutely love it, but I don't mind carrying out repairs on it. If I had to take it to a garage whenever it needed attention, I think I would probably hate it by now.

I'll second that, always the first port of call is the fuel filter. try the leak off pipes, makes sure they're not leaking,....... Any sign of diesel leakage from the pump? I think air is getting into the pump and it could be the front seal.

I haven't done disks on a Freebie, so I may be talking sh*te, but you don't normally take off the hub nut to change the disks. Normally the disks are attched to the hub by c/s screw(s).

Just thought I would update everyone, after the timing belt snapped I replaced the head and injectors with one of a 220 SDi and it's much better. Think it turned out to be a leaking injector. I would definitely recommend fitting the SDi injectors, the extra torque that they produce is well suited to the Freelander.