EggNChips

Cheap ones on fleabay are carp, tried them and they were worse than the knackered one. Unplugging makes very little difference, slight reduction in torque and saves ~£150 for a genuine bosch one.

You did well doing it in 6hrs!!!

I'm on my fifth in three years! TD4 is by far the best, but the L series diesel isn't bad. I personally wouldn't have a petrol one. TD4 auto is a great car, but suffers a bit on the MPG. MAF sensors are also a problem, but a cheap fix is just to disconnect it, it doesn't make that much difference. Parts are just sooooooocheap for a freelander because there is so many petrols breaking. Had loads of cars over the years from Evo's to Defenders and Freelanders are the most practical allrounders you can get. Just make sure you've got a good tool kit, lol

If it quack's like a duck and waddles............Clutch I'm afraid. not that much different to a FWD car, with the exception of the IRD box has to come off as well. Adds a few hours onto the job

The bumper with fog lamps has lugs moulded into it to secure the foglight to. To fit foglights you would have to replace the bumper and getting one in the right colour is tricky.

No the injectors wouldn't be blocked as result of excessive back pressure and a TD4 should start even if the glowplugs weren't working. Probably the intercooler is blocked with oil.

I would have said the turbo as well altho it doesn't explain the lack of water. There are so many L series diesels in breakers yards!!! I snapped my timing belt on my old XEDi that it was cheaper to get a whole engine than just replace the timing belt and tensioners never mind the broken followers and bent valves. Still got loads of engine bits including a good turbo, so if you need any bits let me know. As for transmission, yes if the VCU fails it will blow the IRD box, if you're worried take off the propshaft. freelanders are ace cars, I'm on my 3rd in 3 years and my wife has one. Ignore all the nae sayers (except about K Series, lol)

Yes they all are, but there is a big difference between 'normal' tight and 'seized VC' tight.

The SDI is non intercooled. Think the basic engine is the same, but not the injectors, ECU and possibly fuel pump.

You prise off the cover of the roof bar at the base where it sits on the roof. There is a bolt under the panel that you undo.

Yeah, hoped that maybe one of the aftermarket decal companies might manufacturer them as I was expecting to get 'raped' by the dealer. So I phoned and ordered them and found out that they're less than a fiver!!!!! Thought this must be my lucky day, so I put a lottery ticket on as well, lol.

It was the ratio in the IRD box that was changed I believe. I haven't stripped a rear diff, but have stripped lots of IRD boxes and the ratio in the IRD box definitely changed.

Are you sure it's not an ES? I don't think they introduced an SE trim level until late 2003 with the facelift, but it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong, lol. The ES was basically the top of the range between late 2000 and late 2003, with leather interior, air con, sunroof, ect.

Hi guys, anyone know where I can get the Sport System decals as fitted to the Freelander Sport?

Another one, on FL1 up to late 2000, the rear is driven at 80% of the front. On 2000 on the rear is driven at 99% of the front. The ratio in the IRD box was altered to stop the VCU's seizing so frequently and thus blowing the IRD box

The regulator is mounted on adjustable mounts so you can afjust the angle of the window. Remove the rear door trim and you'll see two locknuts on studs. The studs have a philips screwdriver type head, loosen the locknuts and ajust the angle of the window as necessary.

It's had in interior swap. The black didn't start to come in til 2002. I hate the early interiors as well, the 5 doors are a wee bit better tho.

A bit off topic, but I think it was the gearing in the IRD box that was changed not the rear diff. I've had earlier and later type IRD boxes apart and the ratio on the crownwheel and pinion is definitey different.

Head Gasket problems are down to engine/cooling system design and not how well the car has been maintained (altho a poorly maintained car is more likely to have problems). Some may never have a problem, but that's more down to luck than design I'm afraid.

Plese elaborate.

Don't touch a petrol one unless you like walking a lot, lol. Only one in my opinion is a TD4, they are as smooth revvy and powerful as a petrol engine. V6= two head gaskets to blow, I personally wouldn't touch one unless it's free.

Is the VC different on the V6? I wouldn't have thought so, but I don't know. The gearbox and IRD box are definitely different.

What big issues? Not aware of any major issues on TD4's.

Definitely sounds like the thermostat, replace it, they're only a few quid, probably less than 10. Freebie will be fine to drive until it's replaced, if a littly chilly, lol.

If there's only a noise in 3rd gear then it's not caused by the IRD box, but the gearbox. If the IRD box was gone it would be noisey in all gears especially as the speed rises. The IRD box takes the place of the O/S driveshaft and is connected to the Final Drive of the gearbox and so any noise from it would be speed related not gear related. A bit of metal filings in the oil isn't something I would worry about if you've replaced the VC. If there was no chunks of metal and there is no banging or whining, then you've probably caught it in time. Gear box is a different story tho