EggNChips

Apologies, the title of your post says IRD bearings and I missed that, lol. Yes the CV joint should not wobble when in the IRD box either.

There should be vrtually no play on the CV joint when it's fully home in the Final Drive. The Final Drive bearings on the Honda PG1 gearbox are a know week spot and it sounds likely that yours are gone. Stripping them down is a piece of p*ss and if you're even a wee bit handy with spanners, you should manage it no bother. Most of the Rover boys also replace the bearings with metal race bearings as well. Alternatively you'll get a gearbox of fleabay for less than a hundred.

MAF sensor? They have a heating element that could be breaking down. Try unplugging it and see if the symptoms go away.

I would just leave it cable tied. The slave is held in place by the braket and the clip only stops it coming out backwards which it is very unlikely to do. In fact the cable tie is probably more secure than the clip would be. It might not look that pretty, but who cares if it does the job.

Thanks for the reassurance, The oil pressure light works but has never come on when the engine is running, even when really hot so I'm assuming it has good oil pressure. It is really refined and quiet when even just a little bit warm, so I'll assume that everything is ok.

Got a '99 XEDi with 177K on it. the engine starts very quickly hot or cold and doesn't use much if any engine oil, so I think it may have been recon at some time. The engine knocks for about 5 mins when cold. This is my first Direct injection engine and I've heard that they do tend to knock a bit when cold, ids this true? Ive just changed the oil and filter but it didn't make much difference. If it is wear in the engine is it likely to be the big ends? Engine doesn't vibrate too much or anything so I don't think it's piston slap and it doesn't sound like tappet chatter. Can't really find tappets for it on Fleabay, are they the same as the K Series petrol? they seem readilly available at reasonable cost.

Are you sure it's definitely coming from the engine and not the IRD box, when they wear they tend to vibrate often on the overrun? The IRD box is directly behind the engine block and so could feel like the engine.

Have you thought about a SatNav, most of them run WinCE once unlocked and should be able to do most of what you require. I got a Navman from Halfrauds for just over 100 quid, unlocked it and it will run a lot of WinCE applications including iPod emulators.

No on the IRD box the crownwheel only supplies drive to the propshaft. The crownwheel on the final drive supplies drive to the one front wheel and the IRD box

Yeah, me too. I have a 99 XEDi and it won't connect. Mine is based on the ELMScan, the one that has all the protocols.

Yeah, I tried that but it didn't work for me. I was lucky in that I was making one good one out of two bad ones and pretty much all the bits that were shot on one were good on the other.

lol, Yes the hydraulics come complete. Try Island4x4.com for it, 59.99 with free carriage cos it's over 55 quid. Locking the master cylinder in place is a bit awkward, but other than that it's very straight forward. Good Luck.

sounds like the master cylinder has unclipped from the pedal. shouldn't still work tho unless the pedal is catching the pushrod on the way back down. Only other thing would be if the pushrod has become detached from the master cylinder. either way, surprised it's still working, but it won't be for long.

Yes you can recon it yourself, probably just the crownwheel and pinion and one bearing will need replaced so I would open it up first. I rebuilt mine for £35!!!! The Heat Echanger is very difficult to get off without damage and they're not cheap. The bearing behind the crownwheel will probably be shot and I had to get an engineering shop to remove the old race because it is blind with no notch to get it out.

Not good news I'm afriaid. The heat exchanger plate is expensive at about £75 on fleabay. You could try to carefully remove it from the unit you're replacing. Speaking from experience they are very difficult to remove without damaging. The heat exchenger plate is held in place by no more than a rubber seal and sealant. Another option would be to get the pipes repaired if at all possible, if they're cracked maybe you could take it to a tig welder and see if they can be welded?

Yeah I think you're right. The crownwheel is easilly changeable on the final drive and that would maintain his current gearing.

I have no experience of the K series, but in general the Lambda sensor is only read when the engine goes closed loop, so it will have no effect on cold starting. I would completely disregard that diagnosis. Injector problem sounds feasible, other things could be air flow meter,coolant temp sensor. Sounds really annoying, but not serious (expensive). Good Luck

The Diesel is 3.647 where as the petrol is 4.200, so that would make the gearing too low????? Is that right, I always get confused with these things. Also the Diesel is the uprated gearbox, where as the petrol is not. If it was me, I would get a fifty quid petrol gearbox of fleabay and take the final drive out of it and put it in the diesel gearbox. I have partially stripped my diesel gearbox tonight and it's not difficult at all and no special tools are required.

can't answer the bit about the window regulator, but surely you can get an ecu from a breaker for next to nothing. There is heaps of petrol Frelanders getting broken because of the head gasket issue. Looking on flebay, you'll pay less than 100 quid posted. Have to say tho, that the bit about the Lambda reading does not sound right. The engine will only go closed loop once the car is fully up to temp, so it will ignore the lambda sensor until that point. Who diagnosed this problem?

Sounds like it's just the final drive thats the problem. You could get the petrol gearbox and just use the final drive. I don't think it would be a big job to change, altho I haven't done it yet. I have the Rave CD and it includes the gearbox manual. You don't have to strip the shafts down.

The final drive ratio is different and the diesel is the uprated gearbox.

Would have thought it would be best to get the petrol engine repaired. To change to the L Series diesel would be a big job and you'll need the engine and all ancilleries inc loom, ecu, alternator & vacum pump, exhaust plus a whole load more. The final drive in the gearbox is different altho I think it physically fits, but the ratios may be unsuitable. The TD4 would be even more, definitely new gearbox and IRD box as well as all the above

The price of them has tumbled recently, but less so the TD4. Great car!!! Not got the same build quality as the Germans, but fantastic non the less. So practical.

Hi, assuming it has not been tampered with, yes it is a four wheel drive.

Probably the IRD. I am no expert in this, beacause I have rebuilt an IRD box, but not a gearbox and there is definitely something funny about the Final Drive in the gearbox on Freelanders. The differential between the front wheels is in the IRD box and the gears have probably stripped. Certainly that was the problem in one of the boxes I have stripped. That box had also stripped the teeth on the crownwheel and pinion so it had no drive at all. The Honda PG1 gearbox is very reliable and unlikely to be at fault. Just out of interest, what RPM does your car do at 70 MPH? Iam trying to work out if mine has been fitted with a petrol gearbox.