EggNChips

Hi if it's making noises, you can assume that the motor is running, maybe one of the cables has broken at the control knobs and it's in between settings, like inbetween the bit for the screen and the dash vents if you know what I mean???? The other option would be that the fan has become detatched from the motor, pretty uncommon tho. If the air is only luke warm, is the temp gauge on the dash reading in the middle? If not then it's probably just the thermostat. If the gauge is climbing properly then it's probably a blocked or air locked heater matrix.

Could be or is it the right starter for the car? If the starter is spinning, other option is that the starter ring gear on the flywheels is shafted.

To test the Idle speed control valve, switch on your A/C and the idle speed should increase slighly. The SRS light is probably down to the rotary coupler at the steering wheel, no big deal, loads breaking on Fleabay. Never had a petrol Freebie, but does the K series have 2 temp sensors? Sometimes cars have 2, one for the gauge and one for the fuel injection. Maybe the one for the EFI is faulty? Other than that I would say, that if tou're certain that there's no fuel or air leaks, I would suggest the either the MAF sensor or the ECU. Unplug the MAf sensor and see if it's any better. When it's unplugged it will use a default value and should run reasonably well Yes an elm based scanner will give you fault codes that may help, or may not. My TD4 will not start a lot of the times, yest there is no faults showing.

To do a leak off test, remove the leak of pipe and plug. Crank the engine for around 5 secs and there should be virtually no diesel spilled. if a lot is spilled, then the internal seal is gone on the injector.

Try the camshaft sensor, they are only used when cranking to tell what stroke it is on then it uses the crank sensor only for timing. The tend to start giving trouble when hot for some reason, so the car usually starts fine when cold, but will intermittently not start when hot for around an hour til it's cooled.

It's not too bad, I did it in my driveway. Difficult bit is getting the box back on, especially if you don't remove the IRD box as you've got two sets of splines to line up. In my case it turned out only to be the release bearing that had broken up.

Yes it's almost the same as a clock of a Rover 45, only difference is that the 45 clocks are dark, where as the Freelander ones are light. Should work properly with OEM radio. The Rover 25 ones are different tho.

Watch out for the tie bar at the rear of the engine. The bush wears on this and will cause the engine to move excessively. Makes sense if it only started after the props were removed as these would have added a bit stability to the engine.

Yeah, the previous owner had put different width and profile tyres on the back as the front. This means that the back wheels are rotating at different rates to the front. The viscous coupling then locks up because of the wheel slip and the IRD box winds up eventually stripping the teeth of the Crownwheel and pinion. It also causes problems with the Traction Control because the rear and front wheels are rotating at different rates.

It's all fixed, I bought the car with a blown IRD box because the lunatic that owned it had put different size tyres on the front and the back! The HDC only works when the throttle, clutch and brake are not depressed so presumably it uses the TPS to sense if the throttle is pressed. Cheers anyway.

If it's leaking from the dipstick it may be the PCV filter that needs changing. If it's blocked it could cause excessive pressure in the crankcase, which will cause a leak at the dipstick and could eventually cause the seals in the turbo to blow. The filter's about £15 from Fleabay and is situated just in front of the air filter. There is also a BMW part that replaces this filter with seperate chambers, ther's a thread on here somewhere about it.

The diesel ones are a completely different animal, no Head Gasket problems. The only common problems are the pulley coming of the High Pressure pumps. I agree about the oil leaks tho, mine was like the Exxon Valdise, lol. I had one with 186K miles on it and it was sound as a pound. They're a little unrefined, but reliable and cheap to fix. at £450 I would jump on it, in fact where did you see it? lol

There isn't a seatbelt warning light on my 2001 TD4. Don't think there is any bulbs in the dash either, think it's all LED's.

Guys, Has anyone ever fitted elecrically folding mirrors to a Freelander? Whats involved? I've got the mirrors and switch, but no harnesses. Work in electronics, so getting the connectors for the mirrors should be possible, any idea how they're wired?

Doesn't matter, it's just a switch so either way round will be fine.

Long time, no see lol. First thing to check would be the needle lift sensor on the no.1 injector, check for broken chaffed wires. Then check the multiplug at the pump, then I've heard about problems with the fusebox, that only a new fusebox seems to cure.

Hi, Got a 2001 TD4 and the ABS,TC & HDC lights are on. When you switch on the ignition, the ABS pump seems to be activated for an awful long time, anybody got any ideas???

Could also be the the clutch actuation fork has seized. If it is the hydraulics, I've got a set that you can have cheap

Could also be the the clutch actuation fork has seized. If it is the hydraulics, I've got a set that you can have cheap

The bit that is missing is the Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) that will tell you whether the stud pattern is the same. I am 80% certain that F2 alloys will NOT fit a freelander 1.

I'll second that, I bought a 99 XEDi with a blown IRD box for 4 hundred quid and it's ace. I was lucky that the guy had an old IRD box that was damaged and I managed to make one good one out of two bad ones. The timing belt snapped a couple of months ago and I bought a complete engine with turbo for 80 quid of fleabay and just used the head of it. So I've got a complete spare bottom end and turbo. I would say however that you should only buy one if you're handy with the spanners.

Yeah Unleaded petrol goes off fairly quickly. My motorbike often won't start after being laid up for less than 6 months. 2 Years and it almost definitely be off.

Yeah, there is someone selling them on Fleabay, but they're no cheap. £400 if I remember correctly. Might be interested in buying his RHD ones if he wants to sell them.

Probably just sticky, try pressing and holding the remote for a few seconds. My passenger door is the same and holding the button seems to work.

I doubt that an incorrect water pump would cause the overheating, tho a failed water pump would. What was the modification to the water pump? I would bet it is an enhancement like change from platic to metal impeller or the like. My guess would be an air lock in the system. I had a Frontera a few years ago and the HG failed twice due to an air lock. eventually I managed to get all the air out the system by removing the temperature sensor then the EGR valve and so on.