martifers

Will, I'm about to do the exact same thing as you, running two brand new cxv-x's which are currently being delivered, I wasn't going to bother with split charge either. Jolli I thought that running in parallel without a split charge was only a problem if the batteries were not identical in power rating and age? And if they wern't identical, the worse battery would damage the better? I don't know the physics behind it, maybe someone could explain or point to a thread where this is discussed? Tom

If you do need a 'new' engine. I beleive Intapart have some freelander 1's in, give them a call as their online system isn't always up to date. I had some parts from one last week. You seem pretty certain it needs replacing, may I ask what is wrong with it? As for fitting, sorry, I don't know on that front.

Martin, well done, you did a great service. I would have loved to have been there with you all helping out and seen the look on the Hummer drivers face. It has been very frustrating having my 90 stuck in the shed part way through its rebuild with all this lovely weather! It would be very interesting to see the impact of this weather on Land Rover sale figures this winter and the coming months compared to previous years hhhmmm.....

Hilifts are bloody useful peices of kit but I agree with bishbosh on this one, not for this use! Do it the safe way, don't regret it!!! If you are happy with the spring rate / stiffness of your original springs and want a small lift <2'' then the cheapest and most sensible option is spring spacers - £20-40 on flebay. Spend the money you save on shocks and shock mounts or a good night down the pub! lol

I am currenlty rebodying my Td5 90 after a role a few months ago. I have not identified a bent chassis but today have noticed that the rear axle looks like it is crabbing. Seems to be about 1-2inch off centre to the new tub. I can't see any decernable bends in either the trailing arms, A-frame, the mounts or bushes, but am not sure where else could cause this (yes the body is straight before anyone asks). What is the easiest method of checking the location of the rear axle? Are there particular reference points and measurements to compare to? When the 90 crashed, it was rolled twice and there was a fair bit of movement in the rear axle (dislo cones and extreme equipe shocks) but i'm wondering what is most likely to have bent. If after measurements, it is found that the axle has moved, i'm wondering what it the most likely cause. Am i right in thinking the main location of the rear axle is done so by the A-frame? Do they often move/bend? Any pointers would be a great help. Cheers, Tom

4'' lift with Hankook RT03's 35/12.5/16's These are wide enough for me! lol

I'd go with making sure the heater vent is sealed and look into a snow vent as fitted to winterised military defenders to stop the water getting in first.IRB Porny has some, worked a treat on mine and look pretty sweet.

Cheers Andrew for your thoughts. I think I may try that pump test. To update so far, have replaced the rad with a new one and whilst I was at it, I rechecked themostat and took off the water pump cover. The blades all seemed intact, although slightly discoloured. The pump was locked to the pully with only a little take up play, and the blades span when the engine was rotated. When we changed the rad, all seemed ok, it ran up to temperature, but as soon as I booted it, when under load, the guage shot up. I pulled over immediately to tick over and the gauge went down to normal within a minute or two. The pipe below the thermostat was not hot implying water was still not flowing through the radiator. When home, to make sure the rad was the path of least resistance for the coolent flow when the thermostat was open I restricted the pipe that runs from the top of the stat to the t junction joining the top of the radiator to the cylinder head. Then we let it warm up and took it for a drive, it worked perfectly, flowing through the radiator, with normal temp readings. What I don't understand is what could have caused the need to restrict the flow so that it flows as it should. The only addition to a normal TD5 cooling system is the addition of another temperature sender. This was done so by adding in a section of tube in which the sender unit was screwed, and thus reducing the cross section of the pipe slightly, could this slight reduction in csa be causing an increase in resistance thereby changing the flow balances in the system? In the picture you can see the new section of pipe at the top with the temperature sensor and the grey pipe connector I used to squash the vertical pipe slightly.

It is a stand a lone gauge and sender, not connected to the ecu one. Yes I will try and find someone friendly with a nanocom near by. Would be interesting to see how it compares. Mmmm... I didn't realise it was controlled through engine speed aswell, is this not just the extra pressure formed at higher revs, therefore the stat requires enough negative pressure produced by the pump to pull water through the rad. A weak pump not being able to draw the water through the rad would explain why the pipe below the thermostat does not get warm nor the bottom of rad. Knowing my luck it will probably be 'the water pump fins have corroded away, passed into the rad and blocked it' Which might explain the prob, and would require both to fix = ££! Think I'll replace the rad and while i'm at it take the water pump off and inspect. Cheers for the remarks, i'll see what happens and get back, have a slightly more urgent Series III Lighweight to fix first, found a lovely big crack in an intake valve on number 2 cyclinder this eve, had wondered why it wasn't runing quiet so smoothly recently lol

I think I will, and see what happens. Cheers for the advise.

Yes it only overheated when at load, as soon as I stop to idle the temp comes down pretty sharpish. The viscous fan has no wobble or play at rest and does rotate when running, how can I tell if the coupling has had it? The temp gauge goes up gradually, although I think I will take this oportunity to put in a more accurate gauge and sender. Glad to hear that maybe the pump can be crossed off the list.

I have a white 90 King cab (Dewie), that has had a 2002+ disco TD5 transplant. On a trip to Dave Mac to pick up a beautifuly reconned front prop, Dewie overheated. I stopped and let him cool, checked coolant level which was fine, although did notice that the pipe from the thermostat to the bottom of the rad was not warm nor the bottom of the rad, while the top was very hot. Got home stopping a couple of times and by having a toastie cab. Immediatly thought was thermostat so changed for new, at the same time I flushed the rad and intercooler. The rad had a slight brown tint on flushing but soon ran clear. Seemed fine after, although did not give it a long run until a trip to Wales last weekend greenlaning. Was a great weekend with no problems untill the trip home on Sunday night where, again Dewie overheated. We stopped a few times, but in the end had to be recovered. Have since tested the thermostat that I took off originally to find it worked perfectly. I have also checked that the sender unit and temp gauge are functioning correctly, they are; showing half gauge at 90°C. I am now stumped as to what to look at next! What could this be or have I missed something? I am not loosing any water and oil is clean so have personally ruled out headgasket, also being the later TD5 with the metal dowel gasket then I hope this would rule out head movement. Would a faulty rad or water pump coinside with Dewie's symptons? How can I check that the pump is working as it should? I can check that water is being sent through the system but I have no idea what sort of pressure is involved at tick over. Any ideas, thoughts or theories would be appreciated.

350 on rear drums... Les, i'm running discs all round.. :-( lol. Well atleast they are on par... :-s. Alfaman, it sounds like your prv is not doing what it says on the tin. Have you got a friendly garage who can check front and rear on rollers? What pads are you using? Have you checked that the pistons move sufficiantly on the front callipers? Like the guys suggested to me above, which i will do before replacing the prv, is bridge the pipes, negating the prv. In your case if it is faulty, then I would have thought there would be no change in your braking sinse it sounds like the prv is not reducing the rear pressure at the moment. Just out of interest what are they like braking in reverse, with weight transfer to the rear?

It passed, but only just!! :-) Still don't think it is correct though, but will wait a few miles. Have done about 60 miles bishbosh including a trip to see Ian at IRB developments this morning, a very positive visit, found out a fair few things about the TD5 that had previously been fitted, and looking forward to some tuning later in summer once the funds allow. As for the brakes, could it be that the prv valve is stuck 'on' or in the reduce position? Will have to do some more investigations and bridging as has been suggested. Although need to get our SII Lightweight back on the road first and mothers Polo, garage is a bit full at present! :-) MOT wise, he did have a decelerometer that he was going to use if we still had problems but he let the brakes pass. The rears originally tested a 200 lbs, on retest 350, in comparison to fronts which registered at near 1000 lbs! so quite a big difference there!! What difference would you expect between 4 pot vented fronts and 2 pot plain rears?

110's did? oh, not according to my 300tdi defender workshop manual, odd. As for test method, he is using a rolling road / rollers and i'm on 235.85 insa turbo special treks, will double check tyres pressures and increase to help, worth a try! He is a Landrover fan so will chat to him before hand. The road test would be the best thing, then he could see how well it really stops, even if the rears are a bit weak! Cheers or the suggestions guys, will let you know how this morning goes.

Cheers guys, I think that may be the next step if the brake test tomorrow morning also comes back as a failure. Although I am slighlty confused as to why the prv is used in 90's but not 110's? If it is there to balance breaking and to reduce the rear brake bias for more control breaking, surely its effect would be more noticable in a longer wheelbase vehicle, am I missing something? Does it work on an inertia basis or are the rear callipers working at a lower constant pressure and will always produce a lower brake effeciency than the front? What sort of difference should i expect between the 4 pot vented fronts and the 2 pot standard rears on my 90 with the prv valve? Even with the a reduced pressure i still would have thought the rears should lock up! Is this not the case?

Trying to get my first 90 through it's first MOT. It failed :-(! Rear discs and pads shot, so before the test I replaced pads with new and discs with others from an axle that is on my Lighweight overland project that has been sitting in the garage a few yrs; however, they were not getting a high enough brake reading so failed the MOT. The discs which I put on did have a fare bit of surface rust, although a had hoped this would be cleared during bedding in, it was not! Have sinse deglaized disc with wire brush, now lovely and shiney, and rebled but the rear's are still not locking at all, not even on grass! The fronts work extremely well. I was wondering if it could be a faulty pressure reducing valve? Is there a simple way to diagnose this? Or can anyone suggest any other reason why the rear callipers are not producing enough pressure? Really need to get this sorted tomorrow if I have any chance of getting it MOT'd and taxed before a GLASS trip to the Cotswolds on Sunday. Any ideas, much appreciated :-)

I have used the original Zenith Carb from our S3 LW Petrol 24v on our 1968 12v LW and it runs like a dream. I have purchased a 36IVR (one of those indian ones) and fitted it to the 24V. I cannot get it to slow run without it stalling. The idle mixture screw does not make any difference Being 24v I have blocked the vaccum advance on the side of the carb, but no difference. I set the upper actuating arm on its hole for normal running, no difference. Nothing else has been changed so I guess it has to be the carb Do you think it is just the poor quality of the carb and should I try and source a real Senith or Solex 36IV Any good sources of seond hand ones please?

It's not a grating noise as such, but good idea, the oil pump is something to think about. It might be worth finding a seconds and fitting. Have ordered the new rocker assembly and will fit that this weekend and see whether it make a difference. I'll try and get a sound clip up over the weekend. I just hope it's not piston slap. When we did the re-build there was a lip at the top of each of the cylinders but my father, who has a few more years of Landrover experience than me, didn't seemed too concerned by this. What sort of extent of lip is acceptable before a re-bore should be considered? Cheers

Mr Bean Yes, we fitted new crankshaft, new big end bearings, new piston rings, an ACR camshaft, and a new HD tappet assembly, but left the Turner cylinder head on that we had added the year before.

Have had my series II 68 Lwt for about 10 years now, it has never been a quiet runner but has never seemed to be detrimental to performance, and all main checks have never revealed anything concerning over the years. Last year we fitted a turner cylinder head and about 3 months ago, after some fun at Tixover and some water ingress, did a rebuild including new crankshaft, big end bearings, piston rings, ACR camshaft, and new HD tappet assembly. It runs like a dream and has bags of power and torque, useful with the RR difs. Timing and clearances are tight but when compared to our 2.25 petrol 3mb running in our series III 24V Lwt, recently running again and seeking new home, they don't even compare. The 24V purrs beautifully while the SII just rattles away. Just not sure where the noise could be coming from. Next step is to replace the rocker assembly, but at costs escalating I don't want to do this without being sure this could be the issue. What should I be looking for in this assembly? What are the biggest tales of ware here? And where else could be the culprit? Any pointers would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the suggestion. Not thought about Salisburys, I will investigate. I have not heard of diff pegging. Can you point me at any articles explaining how to do this. Many thanks

I have a 1968 Series 2A 2 1/4 lightweight that I use for Green Laning etc. Strata florida Bowl broke a rear half shaft. It is not a 24 spline but looked as if it was machined and not cast. Replaced it with a normal military halfshaft but this was slighty smaller in diameter and looked cast. I broke this in the Peaks last weekend. Both broke at inner end and required removal of diff. Some may say it is my driving, but I really don't want to keep breaking the short rear half shaft. So replacement time is in order. Do I go with the ARB lockers with strengthend half shafts (am thinking about locking diffs anyway) Do I go to 24 spline and appropriate diff. If so do I need to change front as well? Who are the suppliers of the strongest shafts known to man! and at a sensible price. Some practical advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

Has anyone had this problem before/know what may be causing it? The engine fires and runs for about 2 secs, if that, and cuts out. When I turn the ignition on the fuel pump takes about 30 secs to get up to pressure and there is a quite strong hissing sound. I can keep the engine running by keeping high revs, otherwise it cuts out straight away. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.