martifers

So you don't loose it. Just make it a manual switch can then choose your throttle sponse rather than it being forced upon you!

Will try and make it though i completely agree with EJ about the mass ride out in these conditions.

The problem being though that if everyone ignores the voluntary one way imposed as you seem to have, then 1. It puts us all in a bad light and 2. as you point out, the lane could be closed for all! Concerns have been made of the routes use and condition, we need to be seen to understand and work with the authorities that can potentially remove our right to drive these lanes. The voluntary one way order compliance is assessed along with lane deterioration. Obviously they are not happy with deterioration, thus have done this to reduce it. This info gathered during voluntary orders can sometimes and is often used as ammunition for permanent orders or closures if negative results are found or proven (even if not caused by motorised or other users) . They would love an excuse to close some of the lanes like this. Please don't give them ammunition When we were there on the 28th (Used the Roych Clough Lane), the order was clear from east to west, when we joined the lane but i did not notice one at the other end. If there is not one there, then that is quite sly as you would none be the wiser until you have passed through the lane if you did not know the lane and the current status of it before hand. http://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/looking-after/vehicles/priorityroutes http://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0003/272991/AP1209-The-Roych.pdf -------------> Is under regular survey as a priority route (very much on their radar) Glad to hear Chapel Gate is now open due to the hard work of the TRF, looking forward to driving that when the weather permits

Come along to your nearest events and chat to people Look through build threads on here and other forums of comp vehicles for ideas and knowledge. There are some gems. Quite a few videos of different techniques and winch scenarios on youtube. As you delve in to the comp world and your questions become more specific, post here and people will be more than willing to give you their opinion. Quite a few of the questions you may think of will most likely have been asked before so make use of the topic search functions in the forums to find these previous discussions. Less like other motorsports, there are so many variables and routes you can take, what is on here is more opinion than fact, but there are people here that have a lot of experience and I have found to be very forthcoming helpful. HTH Sharpie

Buy all my batteries from Tanya.co.uk and have done for years. Great service, price and after sales support. Have a car fitment guide, whacked in D2 and this was the result. Have a search and just double check dimensions. http://www.tayna.co....ery-Rx1825.html HTH Sharpie *sub note, check polarity of batteries you buy if the terminals are not in the middle of the battery. We made that mistake on our D2 out in Morocco last month. Had to go back to the 'hardware' store and change (that was interesting... lol) The positive cables are not long enough if the terminals are not in the middle or are too close the the front of the vehicle.

Going to Morocco next month with my father. A trip we have spoken about for about 5 years now. We are currently going about finishing vehicle prep but are wondering if there is away to adjust the headlamps for LHD? I know there are stickers you can purchase or just apply tape in the correct area but I would rather adjust them properly if possible. I have seen this mentioned for Disco 3 but not for Disco 2. Is anyone able to shed some light? Excuse the pun there. Cheers Tom

When we changed ours, the cross member was removed. Either for ease or necessity, I can't remember which. *edit* - just checked with the old man, it was out of necessity to fit a straight through 'decat' pipe.

Sealey Superline Pro. Got 4 of them between my Dad and I. The oldest one is about 5 years old now, not had any problems.

Didn't realise EU2 ECU's didn't run on 15P Engines. Assumed was compatible with a replacement chip. Glad people in the know came along. Porny has done all our ecu work and knows his stuff.

I believe it will run of sorts with the incorrect codes. You have to read the codes off the injectors themselves. By just removing the cam cover enables you to see them (takes 2 minutes)

Won't be a problem. You should input the new injector codes into the ecu anyway so will need someone who can write to ecu to do this, if there is anything else that differs (don't think there is anything important) then they could alter that at the same time. My Defender suffered from gender confusion for while after an engine transplant done by previous owner. Was fine but the ecu kept throwing fault codes as it was confused as to why it didn't have discovery bits anymore. Had it flashed when i did a full re-wire with no problems. You can pretty much do anything with it, with the right tools or friends.

I am on the look out for an aux battery tray for our disco 2. The only one I can find in the UK seems to be the ARB one offered by D44 but i can't justify it at £315. I am surprised I can not find one anywhere else over here. Can get from Aus for $185 AUD (£120) + shipping costs but i think i'll have a look at fabbing my own. From limited pics i've seen of ones offered in aus, they look like simple 3-4 part constructions. Has anyone got any decent photo's / dimensions of ones purchased or made to give me a head start. Many thanks, Tom

Can only be coincidence. Have you checked for play in pan-hard rod bushes / bolts, wheel bearings or king pins? If it has been left standing for a while, how are tyre pressures, or were any of them them flat, left for a while and now potentially miss-shapen? Were the wheels heavily balanced, now loss of wheel waits? Wheels nuts nice and tight? Tracking? .... running out of ideas.. Is the wobble worse under acceleration, braking or constant? HTH

Since April, yet another firmware update has been released on 5th June 2012 v1.11. In this update the instrument mode can now be entered at the data read menu level so you no longer have to turn the unit off and reboot to enter or leave this mode. Much prefer this edition, seems more stable and I've not encountered any problems thus far. It should not have been released for sale in it's original state last year. It was a beta model at best!!

Check out the tech archive Ian, are a few write ups there i.e http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=2115 , and http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13723

Not quite sure what you are asking. You know the diameter and width you are after.... But maybe this will help. 10.5 inches is 265 mm wide , 11.5 - 290 mm With a 265 wide tyre on a 16 inch rim, you would need an aspect ratio of greater than 80 to get an overall diameter of 33 inches or over 90 to get a 35 inch total diameter. The most common 265 wide tyre on 16'' rim would be 265.75.R16 - 32.2 inch total diameter WIth a 285 wide tyre, you would need an aspect ratio of 74 to get 33 inches and 82.5 to get 35 inches total diameter. Most common 285 tyre size 285.75.R16 giving - 32.8 inches total diameter. Most common 305 mm wide would probably be 305.70.R16 - 32.8 inches total diameter, 305.75.R16 - 34 inches total diameter. Most common 315 mm wide would probably be 315.75.R16 - 34.6 inches total diameter. Actually check this out... http://www.ntwonline.com/BFG-Mud-Terrain-T-A-KM2-Tire-Specs.html HTH Sharpie

There have been a number of firmware updates. There seems to have been a lot of bugs with the product. The latest update came out on 27.04.2012 and is available in the restricted area on www.nanocom.it website HTH Sharpie

This would also work... simply T'ing the pipe that goes round the back of the engine directly into the pipe going from expansion tank bottom to rad. Also just seen someone else who has removed the metal pipe going from the oil cooler and simply bunged it.

Thanks Dave didn't think of this but another solution, the replacement rubber pipe and reducer would be a tad cheaper and easier than replacing the rad. The 3/4 way connector you mention does not exist on mine.. i thought it ran directly to the expansion tank. http://www.numcat.ru/landrover/p/31/52965/ this 3 way would do the trick, mmm.. wonder what i can find in my local hardware shop, damned if i'm paying £20 lol

After some more research it seems that the 'part' is the oil cooler housing assembly... probably shouldn't remove that then.. If i'm to be able to remove the exchanger I think I'm going to need a pre EU3 Radiator and Pre EU3 Oil cooler return pipe. If I don't do this and leave the heat exchanger in place, will I need to replace my coolant reservoir with a later post EU3 so that the oil coolers coolant is able to return to the coolant system or will it be fine with the return blanked off as it is at the moment and has been for the last 18months? Have I been compromising the oil cooling etc?? :S

I have IRB's Td5 EGR removal kit fitted but would like to remove the EGR heat exchanger, as pictured here, to neaten things up .. Both corrugated pipes have been removed and the return coolant pipe to the coolant reservoir, coming out of the top of the heat exchanger, blanked off as I replaced the reservoir with an earlier Td5 one without a heat exchanger inlet. I would now like to remove the exchanger and am struggling to find the heat exchanger coolant feed pipe start position. The above coolant system diagrams for Td5; A - Later Td5 as mine is. B - Early, pre 02/03, I believe these to be Disco rather than Defender as my Defender system has the thermostat on the right hand side rather than the left. I do however, believe the heat exchanger coolant circuits to be the same. Please correct me if I am wrong. From the above diagram A, it looks like the heat exchanger coolant circuit is only open at the coolant reservoir end, surely that is not right, how can it flow? What is the part where the exchanger feed pipe comes from (just before the pipe indicated with orange in both diagrams)? It looks like I could remove this part and the pipework that goes around the back of the engine around to the heat exchanger, is that correct or does that part do something else that's important? That coolant circuit exists on the earlier Td5 engine but instead of flowing through the heat exchanger and back to the reservoir it passes back through the rad (double entry into bottom left end of rad in pre 02 circuit rather than single entry in later Td5 circuit) If the circuit needs to remain then the only way forward i can see is to purchase the older style rad and feed the coolant circuit back to the rad as in pre 02 circuit. I would rather remove it if possible though. Is anyone able to advise? Thanks, Sharpie

Try Dave at TMS http://www.tornadomotorsport.co.uk My comp truck is currently there having a cage and a few extras fitted. He has some very nice trucks there, work is extremely good and is reasonable and very helpful!

Any of these do Nige? http://www.ebay.co.u...b0#ht_729wt_932 http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/90/category/18 http://www.burtonpower.com/ezk65b.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=gb_feed?WbRf=GBase

If you are weary of the decision, i'd agree with the idea of sticking with what you know works. If the Scorpians have lots of life left why not get some more alloys or steelies for it and stick the AT's on them. Should be able to pick up some 16 D2 / P38 alloys for £50-£100. Our D2 lives on AT's over the winter months, then scorpions for the rest of the year. Same cost as buying 1 set of tyres after another once the first have worn, ignoring the up front cost. You'll go for further miles by not using the BFG's in summer where wear will be higher and you won't have to compromise for one or another to suit all conditions.

Anything with ignition live (position 2 on ignition) is fine to use as the relay live on a Td5. If running components with large current draw aka winches, get a relay that is 'actually rated'.... this site has lots http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/albright-switch-solenoids-405-c.asp I would recommend http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/sw180b-2-albright-single-acting-solenoid-contactor-12v-continuous-6642-p.asp.... what I use or at least this... http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/sw80-390p-albright-single-acting-solenoid-contactor-12v-continuous-sealed-to-ip66-6636-p.asp HTH