martifers

Where did you read this out of interest? I was under the impression that it was ~15 times more abrasion resistance (that is what your refering to, not hardness) than carbon steel in part due to it's self lubrication.

A couple more pics. Is even nicer up close. I want one!!

Sorry to hear that. What have the bank said? I take it they have accepted it as fraud and are re-emberssing your account? Just out of interest, which bank was it and what antivirus software are you currently running? The anti-virus companies are always playing cath up, that is the only way they can do it, but that sounds like a new form of worm with some complicated coding, hopefully the anti-virus companies are throwing everything they have at it. I'll be checking for updates for mine on a dialy basis for a while. Tom

Yeah that would be handy Dan. Tom

I like the look of these, but was wondering if they are worth a punt. Fairleads made of dyneema. In theory they sound great but in reality that may not be the case. Has anyone got any experience with them? UHMWPE (Dyneema) Fairleads Cheers Tom

My brother in-laws Freelander 1 has started making CV noises when turning right sharply. What I want to know is which CV this is a sign of wear of. When turning right the left wheel and CV will be turning at greater speed but the right will be rotating on a sharper axis. I'm am not sure which of these would put greater strain on a worn CV, I beleive it to be the one at greater angle and there for in this case the, the right one. Could somone enlighten me? Cheers, Tom

Cheers, Zardos. My underseat battery box has been converted to a toolbox, with acess from the side of the seatbox, very usefull! This does mean that they all need to go in the back. Had previusly used an ammo box but can't get all three in there so thought I would box them in neatly behind the bulkhead. Might but a supporting plate underneath floor between the tub rales, then one on top to spread the load. Will see what i can jig up next weekend

I'm looking for ideas of the best way of mounting / fixing 3 batteries behind my 90 tub bulkhead. Has anyone got any pics of a good method? Want a robust method, wasn't so sure about just bolting support bracketry through the floor when they may end upside down, but people may disagree that that would be fine. What have people done? Cheers, Tom

Cheers Maverik They seem far more competitive than ashcroft on pricing and are rather more local. Have you heard good things about them? Recommendations? Would be interested see how yours goes when you do fit it. Tom

I'm not tomorrow but would like to get up there sometime after seeing the site there for Northern challenge last month, looks good! How can I find out when it is open? Cheers Tom

Only reason I can really thick of is if there was a time lapse between when the vehicle was last MOT'd and when the modification was fitted before insurance was required... Am I right in assuming that 'most' structural modifications do not nessitate a re-MOT but do require notification for insurance purposes?

I would agree with you fridge but isn't that the same with some MOT's? As for the MOT what sort of modifiactions would be checked by the MOT tester? Even though it may not be worth the paper it's written on I would still rather someone checked it than no-one at all.

I'm not really too bothered if my insurer does require extra checks or is thorough to a point. If by doing so, that keeps out the vehicles that have had home-made or so-called professional bodge job modifications that shouldn't realy be on the road anyway, away from claiming then thats good in my books. If my premium is slightly lower bcause of it, then that suits me fine.... Main reason i went with NFU is the personal touch. And in my experience are so friendly and really are there to help. I hope you do go through the riggers of the report process as i'm sure you will have a faultless and pleasurable... if possible insurance expeirence.

I don't have microcat to hand, but someone here will be along shortly. Ask at your local LR dealer or specialist as they should be able to plug you in to check things over. If not, i'm sure someone on the forum in your area might be kind enough to pop round with said diagnostics if a brew was offered.

MAF sensor working correctly? Might explain it. Nanocom or other diag would be able to give you a definite answer there.

Would have to agree with camel there on the bulkhead removal, about removing a manufacturers structural part. But the only things they wanted to know about were structural modifications as above and performance modifications (engine wise) when i took out my policy. I am with NFU, they just paid out after I rolled my TD5. Had to fight for the correct pay out value due to modifications I had, but sorted in the end. They will just want the engineer to confirm that the modifications are not detremental to the vehicle. They may want to check the soft top with roll bar especially if you are carrying passengers in rear and this would also add risk to the risk of theft but the only things that would be covered in the engineers report would be structural so I don't understand them questioning the A-bar, spotlights, alloys etc if that is the case.

Alright Deeks Later defender door mechs should fit but disco ones won't. Why not just change the for standard winders, the ones from Dewie will be available soon...? If you do want, I know of some mint 2004 doors (the last before the gavl ones) with electric windows available for about £450. Tom

30psi all round seems to work a treat on mine. Use this pressure on all my wheel and tyre sets!

Try Autosparks, they are very good. If they don't have it, they should be able to make it.

Cheers foggy, a great help. Have sent some requests to both so will see what I get back.

Have also posted in wanted section. But wanted some series advice. I know these things are very hard to come by but was wondering if anyone had or new of one around. Last time i spoke to Ashcroft they didn't have one, admittely this was a while ago... The project as been on going for a number of years as other things seem to get in the way! Putting a 300 into a lightweight and don't want to extend the body work by quite as much as I am going to have to with the standard bellhousing. Has anyone gone through the pains of fitting a 300 in a lightlweight that would be able to advise or has anyone got any other ideas that don't include swapping it for a 200!? Although this may be the most sensible as the 300 is from a Defender with only 50k on the clock, worth a fair bob.... no, i'm not giving in yet!! lol HELP NEEDED Cheers Tom

6 incapsulated M6's under roof lining I beleive. Haven't got manual to hand, will be in there though.

Ram air intakes for one. Louvred or Scoop Wing Top Heater vents would help if not already fitted Examples - 2nd page

Surely if it was carb icing it's effects would have been more noticable on the outbound journey? After 5/6 miles i would have thought the residual heat around the engine would have stopped this from happening? Why would it only show its self later in the journey after the engine is warm?

Throw in another idea... How recently have you checked your spark plugs and HT leads? HT leads deteriate very quickly in the cold if they are damaged or old!