steve b
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Posts posted by steve b
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well, its all piped up and running - it took a day and a half incl. taking the rear floor out- my rear floor is not std and is held in with lots of m6 csk stainless screws- seems to be fine. Routing the pipework took some considerable effort though . the 12v change-over valve works fine although I'm suprised how warm the electromagnetic coil gets after maybe 15mins use. The winch cable that came with the MM is a bit long and completely fills the drum when payed on evenly so todays job is to swap front and rear winch cable- front is 120' rear must be 150' or so to allow some space for build up to one side of the drum.
Mk 2 mount will probably include a deep-dish drum at least ,with a longer drum if I can get a shaft made at a reasonable price.
Will be interesting to see how it pulls compared to the front which is a Fairey mech winch converted to hydraulic drive
Cheers
Steveb
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Josh,
You should buy that 4dr RRC bob I showed you pics of and keep the old one for bits go on you know you want to. Rollbar, guarded up underneath and little Dirt Devils perfect for what you want
Steveb
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Hi Zuz,
Looks like it could be a nice rally/ gathering, I reckon the 400km of greenlaning would be fun too . Are you thinking of doing it after the Ladoga next year..would be a nice wind down after a week of trophy racing.
Looks like about 1000km each way to get there and back so not too far away.
cheers
Steveb
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the winch is looking good steve will it be usable by sunday??
see you there
watson
Hi Josh ,
Yep hoping to have it running for Sunday for a little test session.
see you there
Steveb
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Anyone else got a copy of the Land Rover Directory he published in the late eighties??
Yep somewhere on a shelf..it was only done one year IIRC , good idea at the time.
All power to him , very green to rework rather than crush 'em and make new from new materials
..of course it should have been Steveb Industries really
cheers
Steveb
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You know me Pete, hydro is part of my destiny , might end up with electric/hydro back up for the 90(100) if it ever gets finished though . Just got my hoses to pipe up the rear winch so looking forward to getting it running. Here are a couple of pic's of the mk1 temporary get it on the back mount, and one of the change over valve...this is electrically operated might need to add 2 batteries and another alternator and some allbrights to run it
Right , off to fit some pipes - and get covered in 46wt hydraulic oil I expect B)
See you Sunday
cheers
Steveb
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my thoughts exactly Lewis,
When I upgrade the motors on the MM and go to 3/4" hose and a big pump the idea of a dual winch control joystick sounds appealing. Looking forward to getting the basic set up running first though. The joy stick might need some sort of override to lock out the rear winch so it's not unintentionally engaged, maybe even a three way front only/rear only/ both type setup. Back to longer drums ...I'm going to take a shaft to my friendly machine shop to see how much for a couple of longer ones next week so will keep you all posted
cheers
Steveb
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We used a Hanix 1 tonne mini-digger when we built the yard - that had the same lift up arm to escape but had the valve in the base of the lever. When the arm was lifted the mechanism locked the lever in the neutral position, well that was the intention but in practice it was possible to operate the lever with the arm locked upright
I went to look at a JCB 812 (12tonne) recently and that used hydraulic servo levers on the chair arms
Sorry Steveb, I'm massively OT
Not at all Lewis , this side chat about joystick control , leccy and hydro-servo is very interesting and relevant to how we control all that power
Just finished mk 1 rear mount - I'm sure HFH knows what I mean by mk 1 - will take some pic's in daylight. This one is basically to get it on the 109 to try it with the rest of the system and if I'm happy with it mk 2 will be more involved.. ..isn't it always, will mean moving centre/rear fuel tank forwards,changing tank breathers and connecting pipes, winch mount fab in front of rear x-member etc etc
cheers
Steveb
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[quote name='dollythelw' date='Oct 31 2007, 10:07 AM' post='194082'
new toy next season though more speed, more power, easier to use, less space.
Any more clues on the new winchs then Jez? are we talking industrial or deepsea fishing winchs? or are you looking at self build? drifting OT a bit but I've been daydreaming about multispeed annular gearbox drive with load sensed gearchanges as a basis for a winch drive for a while....I mentioned using such a set up to my local hydro engineers and he has obviously been thinking about it too cos the chat got very techy very quickly ...nothing conclusive though.....it's probably just added weight to the rumours that I'm a bit nut's
cheers
Steveb
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Hi Jez,
Hope all is well with you and Protoprincess, are your drums wider on Petals winchs? and what do you think about the mainshaft being heat treated? or possibly even forged on the std winch , it is certainly chunky .
I can see your point about leccy valves and remote control on Petal for what you do with her , and as you say its very controllable on the loud pedal , is your pump drive 1:1 off the crank with the flailing chains of death ?
Cheers
Steveb
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The winch is the H12 with the type R motor, i used 12mm wall CDS machined down to 6mm at the ends to allow it to slide inside the original tube upto the end plates. I drilled the original tube at 8 points each end, puddle welded through and two main welds in the middle. The shafts we made from scratch. I had alot of trouble drilling the original tube, not sure what grade it is but its very tough.
Thanks for the replies all , did you heat treat the new shaft Pete? any pics of the shaft before building it in? also did you increase the dia at all to reduce any risk of whip/increase torsional rigidity over the extra length?
Orgasmic Farmer - a joy stick control- now I hadn't considered that , that is now on the list of options for the 90 would take a bit of practice getting used to it but would be very effective I think
KKK2 as Luke said I prefer the manual control for proportional control, its what I've been used to for years...maybe I should try someone's truck with leccy valves to see how it feels
Old spot going slightly OT what class did you enter on the Ladoga this year, and with what vehicle? Are you hoping to enter next year?
thanks again for all the replies , keep it coming
cheers
Steveb
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Hi Pete,
Thats what I've had in mind, how did you deal with the shaft ? my conclusion was similar to Siwhites , make a new shaft, which is not out of the question. did you use solid bar for the drum and gun drill it or thick wall CDS tube? looks nice Pete however you've done it. What motor is that?
cheers
Steveb
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Are you worried about not being able to have the pump in gear when in reverse?
Not with this install on the 109sw as this is my daily drive , when I put the MM's on the 90 it will be a crank driven pump, more suited to challenge/ raid use. The 109 is only used for marshalling playdays and greenlaning/ overland travel(hopefully).... although having said that I'm hoping to enter tourist on next year's Ladoga with it
As for twin lever vs change over Si & Luke , I've gone for changeover as I've already got a remote cable operated in/out valve under the floor and felt again because of the overall package a 12v leccy c/o valve would work ok. The 90 will be twin lever for comp use though...aahh I love the smell of a vapour build in the evening .
Also & not least this way is relatively cheap to get it up and running to try it out, can always come back to it with an upgrade later.
Steveb
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Hi Josh,
Yep I'm fine ta , the rear will be off the pto pump and valveblock that powers the front one , switched through a change over valve , so should work well . Having read through the tech archive on here I will also need an overcentre valve to lock the winch in the event of a hose failure.
see you sunday
cheers
Steveb
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There are several people on here using MM hydro winchs on here I think, and as I'm installing my rear MM on my 109sw now its made me think about making a longer drum/ driveshaft.
Have any of you done this and if so how did you mod the drive shaft?
Another question that I have is do the plastic drum bearings last ok or has anyone replaced (with some machining) these with roller/ball bearings?
Finally is it worth fitting a grease nipple to the gearbox or does it not need replenishing regularly? and what sort of grease? waterproof might be good but what sort of wt?
cheers
Steveb
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Yep as said above yellow/red/black the freewheel t/box stopped in 1950 when the yellow knob 2wd/4wd t/box started. It should also have a very cute small oval dash with speedo, fuel, amp meter and ignition/headlight switch. Engine should be the 2 litre F head . The seat cushions locate in the seat box with 2 rubber bungs Land Rovers were nice and basic back then.
The spare wheel was a optional extra back then too
Lovely vehicle for there time tho and iconic now
Cheers
Steveb
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Depending on your tyre size you might find that a km/h series speedo will give a close approximation to the correct speed in mph - its what I did on the last coiler88 I built, distance recording might be a bit out tho. The cable fits as Tonk says.
HTH
Cheers
Steveb
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Yeah Missingsid , it was definately one of those " I can't believe I'm doing this" moments , still with me 18 years on . My mate whose truck it is now has 6 explorers and some other nice toys incl GMC 6x6's and a couple of thornycroft Antars.
Bill - a difflocked Pioneer now that would take some stopping .....I did have some rather bad thoughts about agri tyres on it when we were playing , bargrips are still bargrips no matter how big they are B)
cheers
Steveb
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I came across an old Scammell Extractor in a farmyard near me a few months ago , they are a 6x6 civvy truck I think . It looked early '60's . If anyone is interested could go back with a camera and take some pic's. I had a drive of an Explorer offroad hillclimbing and bumps a few years ago - awesome machine.
Cheers
Steveb
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Nice write up Zuz, sounds like a mad few days
..whats the typeR moment about then? do tell B)
any photos of the " uuuuuuu nice tyres" ?
Steveb
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Whats the crank pulley/ damper assy like ? did your mechanic heat it to remove it? or use a puller on the outer pulley section? if so it could be the bonded rubber is damaged. This will cause vibes and should be replaced asap.
hth
cheers
Steveb
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Well done Jez & Kim n support peeps , nice result .
Looks like a great event , bullet proof camera has to be high on the list with that punch recording system I reckon
cheers
Steveb
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Hi Hendrik,
don't know how to do linky thing but there is a thread on here somewhere from Petergg showing his 36v alt install ....this was a 24v upped to 36v nominal.. I think it has such luxuries as greasable bearings too
..certainly works well B) . As for sourcing Ithink these are fitted to coachs etc but might be wrong.....coach alternators are made up to 300a + @24v, chunky tho.
cheers
Steveb
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Yep, engine out , crank out , was only one bent rod tho, the crack in the inlet port let enough water in to hydraulic that cyl & bend the rod.....first time I've come across that happening
learn something new most days
Cheers
Steveb
Ladoga 2007 DVDs - UPDATE !
in International Forum
Posted
Thanks Nige, and all concerned, got mine this morning and will watch it tonight
Cheers
Steveb