steve b
-
Posts
4,159 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
19
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by steve b
-
-
Capacity could be an issue in that location , there isn't much volume in something the size of a heaterbox/fan assy.
It might need a 3rd fitting for the leak-off return depending on what you are running.Mine has baffles but its 7 gallon. I've also got a magnet inside to catch any metal particles that shouldn't be there .My filter is an in line 1" feed in and out.
so wossit for then ?
mmm hydro B)
cheers
Steveb
-
......of course its just possible that its nothing to do with the replacement head and is the cambelt failing...
Might be worth popping the front off the engine just to eliminate the possibility
Cheers
Steveb
-
Another thing to think about .....did you have wading plugs in the timing cover and bellhousing?
The timing cover being the most important of the two.
cheers
Steveb
-
I've got a mate doing regular european heavy haulage in Germany upto 170tonnes so wieght not an issue
If Exmoor Beast's plan falls through let me know and I'll see if he can help...... B)
Steveb
-
Caption Competition:
To catch the offroader I have baited the line with Hob-Nobs
" Thank goodness he's on portals otherwise we wouldn't be able to see it "
looks like you all had a great time , Seven Sisters looks like a great site
Steveb
-
Welcome to LR4x4 Gerard and also DaveB...I'm not far from you both too..Stowmarket .If you are going out greenlaning pm me if you fancy a meet , Iknow several lanes around here as I've been here forever . I also marshal at Bures most times if you fancy a playday outing.My 109 is my avatar...also a few pic's in my gallery on here.
Seems there is quite a few forumeers out here in the east now ,maybe its time for a social over here?
see you in the mud somewhere B)
cheers
Steveb
-
..my experiences with these reflect the comments Bush65 made....I've taken 2 out to refit 3.9roverV8 due to broken cranks.Water flow is another issue and I've lost count of how many broken starter bolts have had to be replaced. Having said that when they are good and well installed they do pull well and return 25+mpg . I'm sure there are much better engines to retro fit as others have said. Oh and they eat gearboxs/diffs/halfshafts.
Cheers
Steveb
-
Hi Josh ,
If you have 3 phase in your shed you should look for an industrial s/h mig plant ....you can always turn it down whereas a cl*rke130pos is just not really up to it . A good single phase 170 -200 a will be fine for everything as tony said....a good way of making a quick assessment of a welding plant quality is the heavier it is the better (nice transformer copper windings) ,a quick look at the wire feed will also show build quality- you're looking for a good size motor case no plastic mouldings. Butters/ Esab/migatronic are all good makes.....in reality most of the single phase migs are made by an Italian company whose name escapes me at the mo & and then marketed under different names.
having said all of that I started with a 130a backwhen i was 17, and used it for a couple of years before getting a 450a 3ph unit & now use a snap on 190a 1ph.
I'm sure we'll talk about it at Bures on the 23rd
seeya there mate
Steveb
-
Is the gauge being supplied a stabilised 12v? if the volt stabiliser is kaput this will cause it to over read.... and also the fuel gauge too? nice vehicles Niko and welcome to LR4x4 too
Cheers
Steveb
-
If its a 1 ton t/box the sliding engagement ring will be m/ced back on one side of the groove that the selector fork goes into.....if its a std t/box the sliding eng. ring will have the same amount of metal either side of the selector groove.
Also on the 1 ton the main shaft of the pto will be a similar amount shorter
HTH
Cheers
Steveb
-
I only use bosch or makita, they are much quieter and smoother running......this will be the kiss of death now I've said how good/long lasting they are.. the 9" is 18yr old , the 4 1/2" about 12 both going fine. Don't see the point in cheap tools like this.....mind you I'm a bit more than just occasional hobby use
cheers
Steveb
-
I had this happen on a 2 1/4 diesel through crankcase pressure ( worn bores) blowing oil into the intake.
When it took off i was in 4th doing 45 - flat out on the A14 and in a split second I had 65 on the speedo....the kick in the back was more akin to my old 455HO firebird than a LR ....the cloud of smoke engulfed everyone behind and it took 1/3 mile to bring it to a stop in 4th .
My mates wifes Laguna self fuelled ( blown turbo seal ) a couple of months ago when she restarted it after re fuelling. She got out with the rev counter off the scale.......it ran for nearly 20mins , 10 of which was watched from a safe distance by the 3 fire crews that turned up ......all they did was to push it away from the pumps.After it went bang they made it safe.
.....its a bit like if the car catchs fire.........how much risk do you want to put yourself/others under?
trust me its f**king scary
cheers
Steveb
-
Hi John ,
hope you are well and enjoying your 109
I use one of the large Zarges cases held in with 2 turn buckles onto floor mounted eyes..if you can find one to suit your needs i would highly recommend it . they are super light and sealed with the lid clasped = no dust / less condensation.
Got mine at a local army surplus yard £40 , its about 30"L x20"H x24"W.
Also a couple of ammo boxes for shackles/pulleys ,they live inside the Zarges.
Cheers
Steveb
-
Hi Aragorn,
This is how I done a 110 Hicap rechassis , jacked up to the hieght to allow rolling chassis c/w engine and gearbox on wheels with no tyres, position stands and cross beams, check its all disconnected lower chassis assy down onto rims and roll out.........swap the bits and roll back in and jackup etc etc
cheers
Steveb
-
......I hope he leant the S1 chassis against a wall to paint it so the excess dripped off at an angle as per original factory procedure.....
oh thanks yes thats my anorak ta must be off
Steveb
-
Hi Bogmonster,
I use an old petrol EFI pump ( off a granada iirc but opel/vauxhall also used to have the efi pump out of the tank) and it pumps petrol and diesel fine 1/2" pipes in and out allow full flow so a jerry canfull is about 3min.
just to add I've also got a small Jabsco pump which copes fine with oil/water/diesel too and that sort of thing might be easier for you to put your hands on......
cheers
Steveb
-
Hi Lewis,
how about reverse calculating it ?
you know the m/min you will get with the winch and can assume an engine speed say 2500rpm
you know the tyre dia you will use 40" go well with portals
the missing figure is the overall gear ratio
then from there its breaking down the various ratios g/box-T/box- diff- portal box
this should show if you need an under drive too
HTH
Steveb
-
Yep go for it , they are the same . IIRC the only handed bulkhead outriggers on series LR is 86"/88"/107" S1
cheers
Steveb
-
hi Smo,
If its pooling and then dropping out leaving a kingreat hole you have too much heat or not enough wire speed..prob both.
if its not penetrating and heaping up its not enough heat / wire speed
try changing one at a time that way you'll get a better idea of whats happening.
cheers
Steveb
-
Hi Dashface,
just to add to what Fridge said cowling around the fan with what ever rad you end up with is worth getting right as enclosing the engine fan gets the most efficient vol of air thro the fan and rad.
Welcome to the forum btw, and good choice 109 stationwagons are the best......i might be biased tho
heres a couple of pics of mine
cheers
Steveb
-
glad you are ok Simon , that caught really quick, hope you can sort out another LR & all the insurance deals are hassle-free.
Steveb
-
Hi Bathtub,
haven't done one yet myself but i think you need a largish puller to get the hub off the axle and then some sort of press/clamp arrangement to refit.....thats nice and vague , there is a 'mog section on d*fflock and i'm sure theres something on there about it.
DirtyDiesel on here has some experience with uber axles , might be worth a pm
would be interested in knowing more myself for later...
cheers
Steveb
-
Hi muddy, if its EDC there will be no throttle cable to the injector pump, just a wiring multiblock. With the auto there is a cable from the throttle pedalto a bracket on top of the inj. pump with a lever connected to another cable connected to the autobox-this is the kickdown cable. If it is EDC then check the connections are clean/dry for the inj. pump and also the air flow meter near the air filter box. Secondly check for air /diesel leaks in the fuel sys up to the inj.pump, is the fuel filter clean/ sealed? Finally if the fuel liftpump is leaking back- dodgy valves- this will cause similar probs. Liftpumps are a common failure and are cheap and easy to replace.....
oh yes and welcome to LR4x4 hope the above helps
cheers
Steveb
-
but then when i challenged them to identify my tyres at 20 yards the best they could manage was "they're not simex"
F**king retards, needless to say they were told to p**s off.
you are a bad man Dan
cheers
Steveb
300tdi head problems part 2
in International Forum
Posted
Hi Bowy ,
sounds a bit odd that only 1 & 3 have hit , Like Les said you would hear the bigend brgs (pronounced knock). Are all the pistons coming up to the same hieght at top of stroke? if not you either have worn out bigend brgs or bent conrods.If the rods turn out to be bent , and this can happen with a cracked water jacket in the head , , you will have to have the engine out as the piston and rod come out from below. I have seen pistons hit cyl heads through big end wear so it may well be as you have been told......I have just been thro all this with a cracked 300Tdi head = bent rod = new head + conrod etc.
hth
cheers
Steveb