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miketomcat

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Posts posted by miketomcat

  1. A switch will switch any voltage it dosen't care if you relay drive anything you would at 12v bolts you won't go far wrong. You can get some nice droppers from 24v to 12v to run things like stereo etc that are difficult to find in 24v.

    But I'm certain it will be easier to convert the motor to 12v than the car to 24v. Bulbs, gauges, radios etc are a lot easier to find in 12v.

    Mike

  2. I'm pretty sure the casings are different as the calipers mounts are cast not bolt on like earlyer Salisburys. Plus if it was a bolt on conversion people wouldn't just swap the axle for a disc brakes version.

    But I do have to agree with others unless you are building a concours truck exactly as it left the factory I see little point (i have a G plate 90 now on discs).

    Mike

  3. https://www.dropbox.com/s/d8wz0ksinkenu2g/2012-10-24%2015.29.39.jpg?dl=0

    This is our building at work it was shipped over from the state's and was built with 5 blokes and a land rover (pto winch). It's construction is similar to a polytunnel but the covering is pvc and tensioned as lifted disco discribed but the bolts go into part of the frame as we have a 90ft section on wheels so we can roll it back to get the boats in then it rolls back and is strapped down to anchors.

    Mike

  4. Daan has hit the nail bang on this is how we used to weigh my brothers race car. He bought 6 identical bathroom scales we put a board across two for each front wheel then reset them to zero. We then jacked the car up an end at a time and placed the doubled up scales under the front wheels and singles under the back. This gave us corner weights (the suspension was then adjusted to the required weight) but for total just add all the weights together. We were weighing a car that was just shy of 600kg. The only things we took care with were we used digital scales (about £5 for up to 300kg) and you may need to shift positions to get similar readings on all scales (more accurate if all scales are within a few kgs).

    Mike

  5. I presume these were more or less bolt in?

    Would you recommend a smaller steering wheel to stop legs banging off them getting in and out? Im 6'2" ex rugby player so my thighs are..err..large :)

    iirc the bolt pattern is nowhere near I made a frame that bolted to the seat and picked up on the standard bolts on the seat box. But this did allow the runners to go over the flange at the back of the seat box.

    Mike

  6. I lock the cdl as soon as i leave the black top, loose gravel often quickly turns to slippery hard clay then to slushy mud.

    You will blow the center diff long before any tyre wear will occur (which will only happen on bitumen) and good luck trying to engage the CDL at anything more than rolling speed without knocking a few teeth off the gears.

    I think your confusing diff lock with hi low. Diff lock can go if at any speed. Hi low change should be done below 5 mph though it will go in at higher speeds but not without risk of damage.

    Interestingly on a land rover off road coarse they suggest engaging diff lock when you leave tarmac I didn't argue the point but he did go distinctly quite when he found out my daily driver was a tomcat.

    Mike

  7. I engage diff lock when approaching an area of reduced traction drive through then disengage. Engaging on dry solid dirt or tarmac etc (except if a chance of wheels in the air) will result in wined up this is when one or more wheels travel fast than the others putting twisting stress on everything. Whined up can only be lost by disengaging diff lock (this will equalise stress between all wheels) or spining a wheel.

    Mike

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