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Everything posted by miketomcat

  1. The Dremel use is inspired. The engine and box sit quite nicely in there now. Mike
  2. Mine is bunged up because I have a snorkel so you could just bung it up. Mike
  3. I found 35's to tall on the standard gearing. Don't get me wrong it was bearable just but a soon as a trailer went on the back it really wasn't. I've dropped down to 33's with a 1.4 transfer box. Mike
  4. He is getting diplomatic in his old age, I seem to be going the other way though...and I wasn't great to start with. Mike
  5. I normally disconnect the battery and alternator. I would be tempted to disconnect the ECU but an adult will confirm that one as I don't have anything new enough. Mike
  6. Those wheels are effectively split rims. Yes they are beadlocks but the tyre is sat in exactly the same way it would be on a normal rim. The beadlock is a flange in place of the wheel bead. Whilst they won't be e marked they are not beadlocks in the normal sense. The yellow is the outer rim as per normal wheels. Mike
  7. There is a larger 32amp (iirc) commando socket but that looks like a 16amp as glue states. Mike
  8. They are quite neat I like them. Mike
  9. I would be adding some structure (small section box/angle etc) along the line of the original wheel box both on the floor and side panel. The SW has an extra crossmember in this area to support the rear tub, where as the hard top relies on the wheel box shape running to the bulkhead for stiffness. Mike
  10. I guess I'm just used to 110sw chassis which has 7 plus front bumper. I don't doubt the material is considerably thicker though. Mike
  11. I have to admit I was expecting to see more crossmembers than there is. Mike
  12. You could fit the old sprocket line it all up then remove it and fit the new one. Mike
  13. Won't be the first land rover part I've made in fibreglass. Mike
  14. My rear tub is an all aluminium pick up tub that is separate to the chassis. If I remember correctly TSD's long and short wheelbase both have wheel boxes that are part of the chassis so assume cosibex was the same. Mike
  15. It's just occurred to me that I have polybush bump stops that are about 12mm longer than factory. That may be why mine doesn't rub plus my springs are a little stiffer than TSD's. Mike
  16. I'd say that's a cracking job. I can see why you used 3mm now. Mike
  17. Could you get a local sheet metal firm to form the long fold's. I know that's not the point but it does save a lot of agro. Mike
  18. No but it's old enough for only us old farts to remember their perfect creation's not plagerised from anyone else.... Mike
  19. I will second this I have both and they are by far the best overlanding videos. These guys prove you don't need all the toy just a bit of ingenuity. I will probably end up waiting for the long way up to come out on dvd. As I flatly refused to have 10 different subscriptions and can't be bothered/not sure I'm capable of a work round. Mike
  20. Surely just a rename of this thread will work let's face it, it's in the right section. Mike
  21. Remember 90 and 110 are rocking horse poo In the states and very expensive. They have a reasonable kit car industry over there much like we do here. So if you can't find/afford a real one....... Mike
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