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miketomcat

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Everything posted by miketomcat

  1. If you're using the concrete as the floor of the shed put a damp proof membrane down first, nothing more unpleasant than a damp shed. Obviously if you're putting a timber floor over it no problem. Mike
  2. I have two types of mach5 single beadlocks above is my spare wheel, yellow is outer rim the white ring clamps the tyre to the yellow rim. However these need tubes really which kind of makes them double beadlocks ish. The others have the white ring as part of the wheel with a removable outer rim. These you need to stretch the inner tyre bead over the ring and onto the wheel bead. The outer bead sits against the ring the the rim bolts on and traps the tyre bead. These can be used tubeless as they are easier to seal. The other thing to remember is the mach5 type of beadlocks is technically road legal as it's just a split rim. The type that clamps the bead between two flat rings is not. Mike
  3. Old photo but 255/85x16 on our 110. Personally these are perfect, they look great, add a little height, fit stock suspension just and raise the gearing a little so it cruises better. Mike
  4. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/alignment-dowel-timing-cover-alignment-cam-stud-genuine-jaguar-ebc9705.html Mike
  5. I think we needed to swap the quantity for etch and high build. 3ltrs of etch or a sealing primer if it's already got paint on it (unless you know what the paint is) 5ltrs of high build would be enough to coat give a good flat back and coat again. Then 3-5ltrs of paint depending on colour and number of coats. With hind sight more paint on mine would have been better, but I should of lacquered mine (metallic) and didn't. It's lasted well given I don't clean it and it's now 8 years old. What ever you do only put filler on after the first high build. DO NOT put filler on bare metal it will fall off. Mike
  6. Bluetooth centres, I've heard about them. Mike
  7. I can remember how much paint @TSD got when we painted his, but we painted both his long and short wheelbase ibex. Mike
  8. I bought 5lts of paint for my ibex and it was enough for 3 good coats, plus 3 coats on a Sankey tool box trailer. Mike
  9. Which was exactly my point about not putting logs under it for transport. Mike
  10. It's cropped up on faceache a few times. From what I've seen whilst not illegal the police will almost definitely pull you and at best make thinks difficult. Logs under is I think a bad idea as it's additional weight, will make it taller and potentially unstable, you can always jack it up when you get to location. Mike
  11. If your replacing the turrets it seems like a good time to fit new dampers unless they're only a couple of years old. It does sound like they are working fine and the oil dampers on our 110 are over 10 years old (one has a big dent in the side but still works fine) so don't rush to change them. Mike
  12. I agree some are more practical than others, I'm afraid I've never been a fan of the alucab style I just don't like the way they look closed. The one above however looked very discreet and as I parked next to it I thought I'd share. Mike
  13. Technically you only need to do the front as it's a split system. But as everyone else has said do them all, start at the furthest away from the master cylinder and don't forget the fronts have 3 bleed nipples from memory. Mike
  14. Yes I agree. I just liked the way it was nice and subtle. Mike
  15. I don't want or need one but this is the nicest lifting roof I've seen so just wanted to share it for others. I saw it parked locally so know nothing about it. I could make one like this if I wanted one. Mike
  16. Thank you, but yes a little late. To be honest the more I think about it the more I want to stick non electronic. Yes more power would be nice but none are much better mpg so the cost doesn't stack up for me. Mike
  17. Well it's running, holding oil and water, now. I got all the cooling system back in and started to fill it with water.....🤬 ing water running out of the radiator. So out it comes. The radiator was bought second hand, but it looked like a mint brass rad with a small dent in the bottom front corner. What I didn't spot was the split in the crease. Cleaned crimped together as best I could and some solder it seems to be water tight, hopefully it will last but time will tell. Mike
  18. Front axle rebuilt yesterday with new swivels and CV's. Considering I just dropped the whole axle under from the donor car, just changing the calipers to defender and painting it 6 years ago it's not done bad. Just the timing could of been better. Also managed to drop the replacement engine in during the week but only got as far as two bolts in the bell housing before it started to rain. I've had to swap a few bits from the old engine because although it is a discovery lump it was fitted to a defender. One such item was the oil filter housing. There are two types of oil cooler hose taper fit and O-ring the original was O-ring and the housings are different. Cooling and intake system to finish this morning and 🤞 Mike
  19. There is the possibility that someone in the family has the details of the tractor and has applied for the v5 perhaps to transfer the registration. I've bought several cars over the years with no v5 (all legitimately) and had to work out the chassis or registration number to apply for the v5. So it's possible to do it without having the vehicle. Mike
  20. Yes I'm pretty sure you can but it's a pig to get out and getting the pulley off often requires a puller. Check your at tdc so you don't lose the keys. Mike
  21. That's a classic example of 'that's the way we've always done it' I used to come up against this often. I'd get shouted down when I asked "why?" Fortunately my boss now is much more open to different ideas as long as they get the job done. Mike
  22. You need to reroute the exhaust if you clock the PTO box. I wound mine up tight but I'm careful on what I pull. Mike
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