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miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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255/85x16 are 33" ish but 265/75x16 & 235/85x16 are around 31" so with 255 it will under read by about 4mph. I thought all defenders were on 31" tyres by td5 not 205's (29") also the difference between worn muds and new can be 1-2mph.
Mike
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I'm currently cannibalizing a discovery 3/4 wiper set up for the ibex now I think the spindles are m8 din (or a8 din) does anyone know what other cars have the same wiper arm fitting and is the disco 3/4 rear wiper arm the same fitting. I know it's a long shot but just seeing what I have to work with thanks.
Mike
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I'd only expect 30 ish mpg out of a manual on a run, 25 mpg normal driving. So for an auto your only a little down and you have got comparatively big at tyres.
Mike
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To be fair mine was a wild guess.
Mine
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Articulation will require some body mods.
Mike
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What rear axle and wheel base are you I've got a post 02 td5 110 (rover axle) rear prop here I don't need anymore (as d & f got back to me) that I'm willing to sell/post.
Mike
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Daan I've heard this before Q plate kit cars are no problem but Q plate production ish cars can be a problem.
Mike
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Technically unless you change things after iva there are no modifications. More to the point what is a standard unmodified kit car?
Mike
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I've not had an issue in the past (mini based kit cars) and few of my friends have Q plates I don't believe they have trouble. A kit car insurer like Adrian flux should cause no issue.
Mike
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I expect and want it on a Q plate I've deliberately used two donors so I can't see how they could age relate it. According to the government website yes Q plates do still exist but they try there best to age relate unregistered cars. I know many disagree with my choice but a Q plate is like waving a flag to the authorities saying this car is legal and has been inspected. I built a tomcat about 9 years ago and it ended up on a K plate as per the donor and I always felt it made it look old. I also got followed across town by the police in the early hours right into my flats car park (the address it was registered at) where they then put there blue lights on as I got out and asked me what it was I wouldn't of minded so much if it didn't have tomcat written down the side and I know they had checked on the system because they told me they didn't know what one was. They then went on there way with out another word. ?
Mike
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If you want alive buy a 110 csw even the dead can't sleep in there ?. Seriously though from what you say it boils down to which one you "like" the most as you say they both have there problems so which one do YOU want.
Mike
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The engine crane in the front of the shot though how it's attached I'm not sure.
Mike
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I ran 235's (km1) on the disco but didn't drop pressures. The wider tyres are better here but that may be down to diameter and pattern.
Mouse and I think petal before ran the split rim and plastic tube set up iirc the rims were staz works (from the us) but the tube was industrial sewer pipe cut to the width of the rim minus tyre bead width. You put the tube into the tyre then drop each half of the rim in with rubber seal in between bolt up and inflate (then repeat because the bugger is leaking).
Mike
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I run standard road pressures with correct rim for tyre, the only time I've dropped them was at ladoga which resulted in a fair few tyres off rims (3 off in the space of a mile on one stage that wore thin quickly). With the best will in the world I'm not sure there's much point unless your in a competition yes grip is better but at the risk of punching tyres off rims.
Beadlocks are great but more unsprung weight and not easy to balance so do you really need them?
As for tyres I'm really impressed with km2's in 285/75x16 (33") big enough for most situations more than acceptable on road and the best normal mud tyres I've run/seen.
Mike
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45's chassis is done with por15 it sticks like the proverbial to a rusty surface and stops it getting worse. However it doesn't stick to other paints ever when keyed well. It's peeling off the original paint on the chassis and under body but the rusty bits both steel and aluminium are as good as when I did it 5 years ago.
Mike
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The td5 uses an r380 so if they are different the parts will be off the shelf but I'm not familiar with the td5.
Mike
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I also added the original series instruction plate which im still hoping is correct with high towards the front..... Correct me if I am wrong?
Jad
Not sure about Borg Warner but lt230 it's pull back for high ratio.
Mike
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Judging by the transporters/trains I see coming into Southampton it's an even split across the range with the exception of defender.
Mike
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All 300tdi and on are R380.
Mike
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I use A2 70 and A4 70 & 80 job dependant.
A4 80's are used in high load areas (i should point out they are designed and spec'ed for the specific job) but quality does seem to vary and they are pricey.
Sorry I didn't word the sentence very well I meant that stainless has a bad habit of firing up (galling) solid just before it pinches up on the job making it very difficult to cut off.
Just to clarify Galling is caused by friction creating heat and effectively welding the two together it can happen both tightening and undoing, without and with lubrication (less so with) A2 and cheap A4 are especially bad for it.
I guess the bottom line is I wouldn't use them for structural but that is my opinion based on what I've been told/experienced.
Mike
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No offense taken my comment is based on two things firstly information given to me by people I respect.
Secondly I use stainless bolts all day long at work (i'm a boat builder) would I use them structurally, no, I can shear the head off a stainless bolts easier than I can a steel bolt. They fire up for a past time normally just before they go tight.
I do use them for non structural. I don't doubt if you up the size the strength is similar but most of the time you can't up the size. Lastly land rover spent a lot of money and time spec'ing bolts for a job.
Mike
Disco or Land Cruiser
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Well said that man.
Mike