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miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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19 minutes ago, ped said:
i always try to hold a piece so if it does grab it doesn't get me and anything small i clamp
This how I was holding it unfortunately I didn't get my finger out of the way quick enough as it came full circle.
Mike
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Not so much achieved today. I reminded myself why it's a really good idea to clamp the item down on the pillar drill, as it bit, spun round and sliced through my finger. Fortunately it doesn't need stitches but it was deep enough to bleed 🩸 everywhere.
The job in question was drilling out some hinges so I can hinge the bed frame to allow access to storage underneath. While I was at it I shortened the frame so it fits better.
I've also repurposed some more of the original aluminium rails to create the supports for the bunks but I need some longer rivets before I can fit them.
Mike
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It certainly seems that way. Unfortunately one of them will be behind a bulkhead when I build the toilet cubicle.
Mike
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At the moment the only lighting is from the door and roof hatches. My phone camera is rubbish so it quite often needs the flash on just to take a picture. It is surprisingly light in there which should only get better once the windows go in.
Mike
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Also got some more bulkheads in and the seat that will house the clorifier.
With that in I was able to fit the bed supports and the rear storage/pull out support panel.
Bed frame dropped down in place, unfortunately it's a little to long so doesn't sit down properly. Tomorrow I'll trim it and hopefully sort the bunk bed frames.
Mike
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Busy day today, in between heavy rain I managed to get the wheels swapped over.
Just a little bit of size difference.
Much more purposeful.
Due to the interior starting to go in I needed to sort the frame for the bed as it's big enough that I can't get it in there once the other panels go in.
I've used one of the original shelving grids. It's cut down, but makes a light weight bed frame. It will be skinned with some ply and I'm hoping to be able to hinge it to give access to the storage underneath.
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Much as this is a budget build there are some things that need to be bought new. After looking around second hand wheels where either well used or to far away to be viable and with Silverstone fast approaching.....
The other thing we've bitten the bullet on is windows for much the same reasons as the wheels. The astute among you may of spotted the boxes in some of the pictures. We've bought three of these.
https://www.shieldautocare.co.uk/product/cassette-top-hinged-windows/
One at 1100x500 and two at 500mmx350mm.
Mike
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Very early 110's didn't have it but I suspect it got added at the factory to reduce the number of leak complaints. Whatever you do don't use silicone. A polyurethane sealant is ideal.
Mike
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The bulkheads are 12mm birch ply mainly because it's left over from another job but also it has I nice light finish. The downside of using left overs is it never quite the right size. The longest lengths are all 60mm short.
Qué the skirting which I've cut a rabbet in the top for the ply to sit in, the upside is it's much easier to fit when your only trimming one end. Due to the shape of the roof I could do the forward section without skirting, except I only have enough long lengths to do the main area. The forward section though is between the bunks and toilet so one side will be clad the other I can hide the joint at bunk height.
I've rabbet the ply to form a halving joint along the line of the bunk height and up the edge to meet with the next (full) sheet.
All glued in ready for the next sheet.
Mike
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They are a pig but sometimes the little lug snaps off and they then won't catch at all.
Mike
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Up behind the vent flaps at an angle. it normally has the grey trim just in front of it and from memory picks up on the top dash rail.
Mike
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One of the advantages of being a boat builder is I have and access to lots of wood working tools. This morning I got into work a little early so I could use the machines. The oak I already had so it was rude not to use it and it'll go well with the birch ply.
Two corner posts and two lengths of skirting.
Mike
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Oh that is pretty.
Mike
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Final day of freedom yesterday,
So removed the original door locking mechanism. It is a shame I can't use it but I just couldn't find a handle that operated the right way and could be triggered from the inside. I let the handle go off the rods, the lower on immediately fell out and jammed in the ground, somebody forgot the rod was longer than the available space below it. Trouble is it was way to early to cut it off.
Anyway got the rest of it out and by that time I could set to it with an angle grinder, first cut, bugger still can get it out.
On to fitting the replacement, removing the old latch left some un wanted holes and having just drilled an new larger hole with a hole saw (the insulation melts and smokes really easy) I decided to just put some rivets in, they're mostly hidden behind the handle any way.
All fitted up, I must of done something right as it all lines up. The catch works great, bolt it all up tight and shut the door fantastic.......
Except that once tight the button is 5mm further in, and now the catch is permanently released doh. Fortunately I can strip it all apart and move my extension to the other side of the release mechanism. The down side is to do this I need to cut down an Allen key. All back together and this time it works a treat.
Finally a clean up and re-attach some of the loose trim around the door.
Mike
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I just use normal ear defenders and listen to the voices in my head.......
Mike
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It's a material finish so won't sweat like fibreglass can giving a warmer feel so not a stark white. It covers a multitude of sins easily and quickly.
The roof will stay white and the bulkheads are going to be a light wood varnished. Remember we're only sleeping in here not spending time that's what the awning will be for.
Mike
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Wife and kids are away this week so household chores are suspended. Every spare minute is on the trailer.
I have a spare ibex door catch so it would be rude not to use it. Unfortunately I can't make the existing door latch work both inside and out so plan B. I'm going the fit a JCB door handle in the stainless door recess and this will operate the ibex catch. I've cut a recess in the door frame to take the pin and a hole in the end of the door to take the catch. I need to extend the trigger plate so the handle can release it. Hopefully this will all work just need to remove the existing set up and fit it.
In between doing this I've done all the internal fibreglass repairs and filled them.
This is where the door was originally. As this is in the toilet compartment I'm going to clad over this with a thin fibreglass sheet so not worried about how flat it is. The other side I've faired in better because this is covered in material.
Tonight I've glued all the wall coverings on.
There is a line where there's a fibreglass repair but this will be at the foot end of the bunks so won't be noticeable.
Mike
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Oh dear god Sid really is going to be the b*stard child of so many countries/manufacturers.
Mike
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The wife has had the design sorted for a while, it was the trailer that caused a redesign due to wheel position.
The toilet module will be just inside the door on the left (front corner) with the bunks in front of you. To the right will be a double bed with cupboard storage on your imidiate right running down the side of the bed. The kitchen will be a combination of a locker and a slide out draw on the outside. It will be under the bed/cupboards to the right of the main door. Eventually there will be an awning on this side over the door and kitchen.
Mike
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I get the change and the corners but as fridge says it's just flat glass so you could get them made in laminated or toughened no problem for not much money.
Mike
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From memory the IVA manual says 6mm which is what mine is but I would recommend copying land rover which is around 8-10mm because mine is difficult to read. Unfortunately this size is difficult to find and more expensive, you might be able to find a garage that does chassis swaps that has some you can borrow or will do it for you. Whatever you do practice first as they need quite a wack and it's easy to get them back to front or upsidedown.
Mike
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I bought a set of number/letter punches and stamped in the DVLA supplied vin on my ibex myself. I think I took photos of it to send off with the registration paperwork but mine had been seen by the IVA man by then anyway.
Mike
P38 winch bumper build
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
With those you'd need to move the range not the steel.
Mike