miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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They are good winches however I've never been able to justify the extra they command. Their main benefit is speed and potential for bigger drum. So if your just dragging yourself and others out on greenlanes and playdays just about any winch will do, I've had an EP9 and now an X9 both very good winches. Whereas if your doing competition an 8274 is a good start but you'll likely disappear down the upgrade hole.
Mike
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45's chassis was spayed with por15. 5 years and one Ladoga later, the areas that were rusty (surface rust) the paint was good still stuck and still black. However anywhere that was shiny metal or previously painted (original lr paint) the por15 had come off, the metal was rusty along with some of the previously painted.
The ibex chassis is galv but I painted it with 2k etch and 2k top coat. All the suspension, axles etc I just painted with 2k top coat. 8 years on (5 on the road) the chassis is mostly good the paint has come off where it's been rubbed on the ground etc. The axles are better than I expected there's still paint there but they could do with a repaint now. The springs are looking rougher but that's to be expected.
The 110 was done with jotamastic 87 (now 90) and arcrite defender chassis black. 3 years on some rust spots are just starting to show through where there was surface rust prior to painting, but on the whole it's holding up well.
The Kit car built years ago came powder coated and I painted the suspension with hamerite. The powder coat came off in sheets a year later and the hamerite didn't last that long. I re-painted with single pack enamel which seemed better but I soldthe car a year later.
Mike
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When I insulated the ibex I used this:
I wrapped it around the frame before I covered it for the same reasons you mention.
Mike
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I've got so long runners but I doubt they're long or strong enough but I figured bearings and aluminium box section as I seam to have a lot of that at the moment.
Mike
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7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
How very dare you!
It's the ambulance that is a bit Flintsones right now... but that's due to be sorted tomorrow.
The 109 you can just climb through the door gaps with the doors "shut".
Mike
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Thank you for the photos, due to the thickness of our walls that style of window won't work very well so eds more than welcome.
Mike
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I've already been told I've got to remove 25mm of insulation off of one area because she doesn't want a step in the wall. It's where the insulation was increased for the freezer section, the other side is ok as it's where the door was so the infill is only 56mm anyway. The pull out kitchen is going to be a 2m tray that I've got to sort runners for..........
Mike
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2 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Maybe you should install a sky lounge?
Don't you think I've got enough to do, as it is I made the mistake of looking at what she'd be drawing. Ignorance is definitely bliss.
Mike
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Also I managed to get the door liner refitted, this is the part the door seals on. Unfortunately it does reduce the width of the door a bit but it's still big enough. As the temperature dropped this afternoon I was able to glass up the original door position.
I also sorted all the other holes in the outside of the box. Meanwhile the wife's been on CAD drawing up the kitchen area and various other bits for me to make, I'm not sure I dare look.
Mike
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Sunday's plan went out the window as I've picked up a cold and felt rough. Today though I felt much better so onwards. After consulting the boss as to where the shower and lobby will be this allowed me to position the roof hatches. My eldest loved cleaning the roof, apparently the view is good. Once clean I could mark out the positions.
Small hole drilled I was able to jigsaw the hole out.
X2 the roof is only 27mm thick but even sat in direct sunlight all weekend it's still cool inside.
Both hatches screwed down on Saba.
With just two hatches it's surprisingly light inside now.
Mike
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The door is 500mm wide which is similar to standard caravan so I'm not worried. Most of the panels that need to go in are only 1m wide and only 3 are 2m long.
Mike
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17 minutes ago, Wytze said:
Would pick a light trim over a huge gap. Is the door wide enough to get all your material in?
I can cover monumental gaps with fibreglass.
I'm working on the theory it has to go through the door. That way it can come out through the door to.
Mike
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The cut out is to be used to fill the hole. I'd love to say it just fell in there perfect....it didn't.
A light trim and in it goes.
Due to the proximity of the wheelarch we needed the door to open the other way. Easy fix just turn the frame and door upsidedown and glue it in.
Tomorrow in need to glass the joint on the in fill.
Mike
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Door out today, it was a case of cutting then breaking the seal around the frame. As with most of the box it's only glued in so it was relatively straight forward.
Out
Once it was out I could work out the new position. This is where it went side ways the internal layout means there's a specific measurement of where the door has to go. Two things have messed with this first I had to make the wheelarch fatter because it was to deep and narrow to get in there to lay it up. Second we've been caught out with some of the wall thicknesses, the roof for instance is only 25mm. Likewise the front is 77mm not the 56mm we thought. So the layout has had to change again because to meet the measurement it shoved the door up by 100mm in order to clear the wheelarch. Layout changed (back to one of the original designs) meant the door can go forward 70mm allowing it to return to the same height it was at originally.
His and hers doors anyone?
Mike
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Are you sure they're boost alloys? I thought boost were the only ones that fit all versions of of the hub and flange without spacers.
Mike
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26 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:
You have a plan?!
I don't! She does.
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58 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:
Any piccies? - I might be interested in some too
Isn't that excuse enough?
Depends on how urgently you need them but @Retroanaconda is heading south towards mine in early July so perhaps he can be convinced. I'm sure my sister will be back and forth a bit as my parent's lab is due to drop some puppies tomorrow and my sister is having one. Also have a mate back and forth often but unreliably between me and Guildford.
Unless there's someone coming down to Summer Sisters from that direction?
Not with current fuel prices, don't forget the ibex is my sensible car.
Mike
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2 hours ago, Junglie said:
I have an unrefurbished diesel Disco one here as well (don't ask) with bellhousing, if you want it then I'll do you a BOGOF...
Thank you but financing a spare gearbox is not in the plan at the moment.
Mike
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Crimp the terminals on, buy or borrow a crimper, make a crimp tool for a vice (its only a hexagonal hole in two pieces) or cold chisel it down the length and squash it in on itself. Then heat shrink it.
Mike
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
@miketomcat how about a decent one for your collection?
I don't really want a V8 lt77 as whilst it can be made to fit the diesel version fits better.
Mike
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1 hour ago, ped said:
i have a stack of caravan windows in the yard free to a good home
Hmm just need an excuse to come up your way now....
Mike
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You can pick up caravan legs for around £20 each and to be honest there isn't much that's better.
Thanks but house double glazing is very heavy and I don't really want glass anyway. You can get caravan windows second hand quite cheap but I'd like the more modern flush fit type and they seem to start at £200 second hand.
Mike
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I had mine in the tool box under the driver's seat, but that's out for you. Some have fitted them under the cubby box. You might be able to squeeze it under the back seat. Our 110 has a rear toolbox so it could be an option to create one or at least make a mud shield to fit it there.
Mike
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Most marine industry cable is welding cable. You can get a double insulated version which has thicker bicolour insulation.
Mike
Right transm tunnel for Defender V8 auto
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Even the professional's struggle with that I can assure you.
I'm fairly sure the diaphragm fits any 90/110 bulkhead (though not sure about puma).
Mike