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miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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4 hours ago, pgrbff said:
why? what can someone do with my chassis number?
All you need is a reg and chassis number to request a log book. Yes they write a letter to the current/previous owner but that doesn't always get acted on.
Mike
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Sorry to hear that Sam - you'd be very welcome to run up in a "regular" car just as a social thing, I know @miketomcat has a spare seat and I'm sure we could find you a few passenger rides.
@ThreePointFive as fridge says you more than welcome to jump in with me. I'm driving up from Southampton on Friday morning and camping at the show caves if that helps.
Mike
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I had a series of cambelts go on one of mine, turned out to be a worn crank pulley letting muddy water into the timing chest.
Mike
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13 minutes ago, bishbosh said:
I am glad I am not the only one who works in their slippers!
The bad news is they're boat shoes not slippers. But I have on occasion done stuff in slippers.
Mike
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3 hours ago, Escape said:
That just might be ferry prohibitive, but it would be fun to watch.
"Yes sir you want to book a what????? On the Calais to Dover ferry crossing."
Mike
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I'll be there marshaling and towing the club trailer. I'll be on my own this year so there's a copilot seat if anyone is that bored.
Mike
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Today's plan was to get a coat on the roof and a second coat on the sides. However that went out the window, I woke to the pitter patter of rain. It's stopped now but due again later so I won't risk it.
The good/bad news about the rain is it's shown up two leaks first is the perspex to frame joint on one of the hatches (they were second hand and it's an easy fix). The second is slightly more involved as it's getting in through the joint between the original aluminium roller door frame and the box roof. All I can do with it is rake it out and re-seal, but I'll need to let it dry out first.
All of this means I've got an excuse the put a couple of dabs of filler in before the second coat.
Mike
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The 90 and 110 are near enough the same from 83 to puma it's just bracket difference's and engine/gearbox configuration. So most mid and tail will fit as in shape you just may need to change or mod brackets to hang it. The front is where it all gets tricky, they changed the diameter several times and the position of the turbo/exhaust manifold outlet moved in the engine bay.
Mike
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3 hours ago, muzaz said:
Are these td5 exhaust parts what I should be looking at?
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-pipe-da4348-wcd000960-wcd000500-wcd106210-bm70660-p-3762.html
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In short no. Something like this:
You will need a bit of the front pipe to connect to the SP down pipe. But it will depend on what you do for a down pipe.
Mike
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Definitely bring the other springs, easy swap. There's always plenty of help on hand so most things can be addressed.
Mike
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Enough to get it to spray nicely to thick it'll spit and have a patchy pattern, if your only spraying your chassis your not worried about a bit of orange peel, less thinners equals less flow out but more paint. More thinners allows it to flow giving a better finish but less thickness.
Mike
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10 hours ago, hurbie said:
isn't the heater outlet supposed to be a loop , instead of closing the outlet's ?
Yes it is, it's part of the thermostat bypass system. @Stellaghost you might want to change that to a loop of hose.
Mike
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From memory yours is a 200tdi, if so I've never needed to remove the radiator bung as the bleed pipe is quite high so it's always bled up fine.
Mike
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In my opinion the Steve parker exhaust down pipe is worth every penny. We have one on our 110 and had one on the 90 before that. It's much nicer than the copies, it just fits and does what it's supposed to.
Mike
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You need the Steve parker down pipe unless you change the turbo to 300tdi but I think you then have an engine mount clash instead.
The td5 exhaust is either the same size as the 200tdi exhaust or slightly bigger. The td5 has a better route on a 90 I believe. I went td5 because I needed a rolled end on my tail pipe for IVA and I wanted it to exit out the back.
Mike
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3 hours ago, Sigi_H said:
Exhaust: For your interest
I put a TD5 exhaust in my 200Tdi
I was going to suggest the td5 exhaust as I have, however mine is the 110 length and wasn't sure about the 90 version.
Mike
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Most remote sets plug into the solenoid, they don't replace them.
Mike
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You can keep the exhaust but later ones are better, however the 200tdi 90 exhaust is horrible as it has a strange back box arrangement.
Mike
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Don't forget you need to move some bell housing studs and fit new bolts through the flywheel housing at the bottom you need to either countersink or counterbore the holes depending on the bolts you use.
You'll also need a Steve parker down pipe for the turbo.
It is possible to use the viscose fan on some but often it fouls the steering box and pipework.
Top pic is a 90 was a td bottom is a 110 was a n/a not that it makes a difference.
Mike
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This weekend I've been mostly sanding. Sanding the fibreglass repairs, filling the repairs and sanding some more.
Then not content with that the boss told me I needed to remove the step in the wall. So out with the multi tool, I managed to peel the inner fibreglass skin off and remove around 20mm of insulation which of coarse needed sanding. I then glued the skin back in place.
Finally while I had the multi tool out I've cut the rivets holding the roller shutter door tracks on.
Mike
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46 minutes ago, hurbie said:
why would you go with a EU based company , they order the parts from the same UK firms .... LR direct , and some others handle the import duty's for you ...
i'm based in the netherlands , and order trough LR direct , and that's what i pay , no extra shipping or VAT trouble's . and a lot cheaper as ordering in the netherlands .
Probably due to the massive import duty most EU customers have to pay on delivery when buying from the UK since Brexit. Some countries it's up round the 30% mark.
Mike
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Overland caravan build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Ooo shiny.
Mike