miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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thanks for the reply Peter (even though it sound like a dig
) i would happly part with my cash and buy southdowns solution , but as i said my 90 is bobed and as such soth downs detachable tow pack will Not fit on my truck , was considering buying the detachable part off south down , but needed to know its dimensions see if its sutable
any one else got any ideas ?
i made my own based on the southdown one (had one on my disco but as you point out it don't fit hybrids) for the tomcat i used a drop plate then welded two bits of 10mmx50mm flat plate to form a triangle on each side the top bits drilled to take the pins. then fitted a tube between the pin holes to stiffen it all up. on the truck had a bit of 6mm plate bolted to the underside of rear and axle crossmembers with two bits of 10mmx50mm welded to fit over the outside of removable bit with predrilled (but slightly offset to allow clearance for welds) holes all welds done both sides. i've towed at least 2 ton with this set up with no probs
mike
P.S if you would like some pics pm me
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you know id always wondered why i hadnt seen them for sale as it was such a simple yet handy idea. looks like i'll be ordering one soon.
i agree ther a great bit of kit but unfortunatly when i broke my rear half shaft (10 spline) at 7S it spead slightly and could not be removed with an X eng magnet (thanks for trying mark) so had to take mine out anyway
mike
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superwinch EP9 with soloniods moved to behind the grille £399
dyneema 12mm comp hook £110
50mm2 welding cable borrowed from work
110amp gel marine battery being thrown out at work
(red top optima £90 for truck electrics)home made bumper about £60 for materials
70amp split charge diode again being replaced at work
extra internal and external switches had kicking around
wander lead socket moved into cab
good cheap reliable system works for me will probably add a second at the rear when money allows
mike
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That's the problem with conveyor belting or Andy's rubber collection, it seems to either be too rigid/heavy and stress the thin ally of the wing, or flexible and you get "petal droop" to a greater or lesser degree. I'm not quite up to 18" wide boggers just yet though
The kaylan stuff looks interesting but not off-the-shelf and there's only so much time I want to invest in wheel arches.
Ali - if you could price that stuff up with P&P I'd be really interested, I had a feeling we were paying over the odds from QT/Whitepeak.
have a look at mine at the next club meet made from 5mm rubber from portmere rubber in southampton UV stable held in place with an ally strip about 20mmx3mm and rivets then a bit of 3mm stainless rod bent to support the flappy bit glued in place with you've guessed it sikaflex
look like standard arches only wider i still have a template for mine which you could extend for yoursmike
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just one other thing to check is your battery cut off i've had problems in the past they'll let the igniton work but when you try and start it all dies came down to knackered switch
mike
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I have notice in my RAVE manual it reccomneds new head bolts be fitted when the head hase been removed.
Is this a over kill or is this something i should adhear to.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Peter
acording to the LR manual you can reuse 200 tdi head bolts a maximum of 5 times as long as there not dammaged but if you don't know wether the heads been off before or how many times it might be worth a new set
mike
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Hi alll,
Picked up an engine stand from our favourite market place and would like
some advice on where to fit the Tdi onto it. Side or back where the flywheel
housing fits ?
It's a Machine mart job, which according to the website can handle 340kg
but I've already removed a lot of weight, head and ancillaries. All I intend
to hang off the stand is the basic short motor to facilitate sump removal.
Thanks in advance.
Nige
BTW what is the weight of a built up 200Tdi anyway ?
i'm building a 200tdi on said stand at the mo ive bolted it on the rear face of the block with clutch and clutch casing removed using the four cap head bolts from the clutch casing was then going to hang it on the crane to do the clutch end and then bung it back in the truck BTW its a defender lump but i don't think it makes much differance
mike
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Duralac paste is used in the yacht sector when fixing S/S to Alloy.
www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk are the manufacturers
Most chandlers should stock it.
John
duralacs main use is to inhibet electrolitic action between dissimalar metals not as an anti sieze but it ain't gona hurt
mike
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Hi,
A while a go I fitted 235/85 tyres and HD springs to my 90. When slowing down/coasting at about 40mph with the steering straight the steering begins to vibrate suddenly.
If i slow down it stops, and if I'm brave enough to speed up it stops, but some times I have to pretty much stop because it is so severe. The whole vehicle vibrates and its pretty scary!!
I've fitted a new steering damper, replaced a couple of track rod ends and had new steering uj's, new panhard rod bushes and radius arm bushes, but it still does it.
Does anyone know whats going on?! Because I'm getting fed up of it happening because its bloody scary, and sounds like something will go bang as its happening!
Thanks all,
Sam
the other thing to check is wheel balancing because if its out it can make for interesting driving quick check swap wheels front to back if it disapears or changes the speed it happens your front wheels are out of balance
mike
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Hmm nice ideas chaps - but I can only dream of those heady days when I will finally start it up, you see I've got no radiator and no fuel tank on it at the mo..
Had another depressing day - the hole I spotted yesterday under the front inner wing turned out to be a really complex piece of chopping out leaving me with the prospect of rebuilding all around the front body mount and the lower bit of the headlamp box... Off to raid the local fabricator's scrap bin tomorrow...
Still - I found a way to cheer myself up - I went and bought some tools
:) :) :) I feel better now Got myself a set of Halfords Professional ratchet spanners - I was tempted by the big socket set (what a bargain!) but at the end of the day the only socket I don't already have (as I discovered today) is a 6mm one. What did I need a 6mm socket for I hear you say? Why to hold the screwdriver bit at the end of 3 extensions when undoing the bottom hose
Thanks again for the suggestions
Feeling fine again now and looking forward to tomorrow.
Rog
sorry to give you some bad news the socket you were after for the screw driver bit wasn't 6mm anyway it's 1/4 guess how i know
this but to make you feel a little better most hose clips will undo with either a 6 or 7mm socket depending on whether there factory fit or not mike
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I seem to recall there's been [not so] idle speculation here as to putting a rover V8 into a mini
watching the French version of Top Gear [Turbo it's called] there's a place in Annecy [Haute Savoie] called Lazareth who make custom motors, they seem to have managed to fit a rover V8 into the front of a mini, as well as into the back of a twingo
I didn't start recording in time to see the engine compartment of the mini, although here's a bit of video
i used to do a lot with minis and i seem to recall seeing a rover V8 transversely mounted in a mini clubman through a maxi gearbox wasn't very neat but impresive none the less
mike
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Ha! think i've worked out the quote button!
as i've been reading around i've seen quite a few swipes at britpart stuff, like the one above from freeagent, i've just got new front disks and pads from paddock spares and the hub seals are...... you've guessed it! should i be looking for oem seals, has anyone used britpart with a good story to tell? i was gonna get swivel kits from paddock as well but will the bearings be any good. i just dont know anything about this stuff but i'd rather pay more for good stuff and not have to see it again for a while. any help appreciated. dave
IMHO britpart stuff ain't that clever i found there stuff seems to barely last a year and my local supplier got so fed up with it that they stock allmakes instead now
mike
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I have tried levering as much as i dare, lots of penetrating oil over a couple of days, hitting with a mallett and a little heat but to no avail so far - looks like i might have to get the timing kit and puller from difflock
the threads are M6 or M5 can't remember off hand but is definatly metric i made a puller using a bit of plate a nut and blot through the middle to push on the crank bolt but it still took 3 hours to get it off so don't expect it to be a quick job
mike
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I recently bought a Mudstuff stainless steel bolt kit for my 110CSW & wondered what you guys reckon would be the best grease to use on the threads prior to fitting, I'm thinking
Coppaslip [copper grease]
or
Graphite based grease
or
Castrol LM
there is a proper grease for stainless treads but the name escapes me having said that copper slip works well and i normally use it
mike
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Probably not a good place for Junior to start with his Freelander but anyone else planning to go play on Sunday?
i'll be there along with half the shire commitee if thats any help mind most of us have to be there really
mike
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Its not like 10 splind are hard to find is it I have four sets in my garden I couldn't give away...
I ran 12,50 x 33's EXT's and only broke one diff in three years playing before I went up to the 34 simex.
I looks like a grate little toy to me.
If you drive like a ares it will brake if you don't it won't simple as that.
It may not be up to scratch as a comp truck but if your after a toy then it looks ok to me.
Jules
jules if you've got 10 spline shafts you couldn't give away i'm sure i can find a home for them
(can't afford to change them yet so spares is next best thing )mike
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if you want something really interesting a company down in poole built a 2ltr V8 using 2 yamaha R1 engines on a common crank and crank case it reved to around 11grand iirc that was twin cam heads (quad cam engine)
mike
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Sorry for any confusion, it was the tank I was interested in, hence the interior picture. Tony is spot on though, the filler is more visible in that picture.
Chris
these guys will be able to help http://www.tek-tanks.com/ but they won't be cheap as they have marine in the name but they can make any size shape plastic tanks we use them at work they are very good
mike
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Anyone in the Southampton area have a harmonic damper kicking around that they don't want/need? Pretty please...
Ryan
you can't fit the damper without removing the guard anyway i'm in bitterne don't have a damper but willing to have a look see what we can find if you want
mike
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Been tinkering with the 110s suspension.
the front o/s wheel is still on the ground but the brake hoses are tight so I stopped jacking.
Will
i've got the same problem you can't buy anything longer than 2" lift kit hoses all i could find was one offs made locally with goodridge hoses but as the tomcat has disco brakes it was going to cost £100 ish for 4 hoses
the only other option was to move the mounts either end but haven't done this yet. so if you come up with a solution please let me knowthanks mike
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Ive been looking at various tyres for my Portal axled Range Rover and i was thinking about buying some simex ET2's and cutting some of the center nobbles off. Would that make the tyre ilegal for Road use? I know that you can re-cut truck tyres so whats the diffrence?
i've no idear what it is but theres a ratio of rubber to groove that tyre manufactures complie to ie yokohama AO32R's a road/race tyre for mini's (road legal) have big flat blocks of rubber for traction but this means the grooves are about 10mm wide where as a normal road tyre has small blocks of rubber but lots of 3mm grooves.
also truck tyres are marked up on the side wall as regrooveable and i think it maybe ilegal to regroove a normal tyre unless so marked. your best bet is to speak to your friendly MOT man see what he says
that wasn't much help really was it hey ho
mike
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got mine from OEC aswell....
i got mine from a motorbike dealer cost me £2.99
mike
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uummm...
Where are the matches....
Will
i woutd try doing a rad flush with a hose then do the same with the block and refill then undo both the heater take off pipes at the back of the engine noteing which way round they are then pour water down one heater pipe till it comes out the other cleanly with no bubbles then reconnect this will clear the hole system out and get rid of any air locks the other thing to check is condition of the rad if it ain't got any fins it ain't gona cool
mike
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the only reason the tomcat got built was i have a good friend who lent me their carport for 4 months and now its finished it lives in a rented garage with my bike but i should point out the bikes across the back touching the wall the tomcat touches the bike and the door just shuts
as for tools home made pullers for crank pulley using a bit of ally with big nut and bolt in the middle and three m6 studs through the plate works but could do with so refinement
also nylon clutch line up tool made up on my dads lathe finally its not mine but my dad made his own trolley jack!! he even machined the ram himself mind he did copy it
from a friends but still impresses me mike
) 
(red top optima £90 for truck electrics)
:) 
OT: Fill my crack
in International Forum
Posted
at this point i think i'll remind you of some very absorbant wipes!!!!
and yes i would recomend SIKAFLEX (for those that can't spell it) 
or an epoxy glue if it doesn't flex
mike