Pwyll

Where was it parked up, Al? I'll keep a look out for that one.

Having purchased a bargain lightbar from DiscoAl some months ago, it looks like I am going to be having some enforced free time for the near future. So the time has come to fit it. As of yet I do not have any lights to fit onto it, so I am asking for suggestions. I would like something that is pretty low profile but kicks out as much light as possible. I have no special desire for bling or chrome, but if it comes as pasrt of a package I can deal with that. So, what has everybody else got? Reccomendations on brands and where I can buy them from much appreciated. Ta, Paul

Additional front driving lights?

Well, it's running again, not perfect, but running. New amplifier seems to have done the trick. I marked the distributor up as best I could and lined it up again when it went back in but there is still some "lumpyness" there somewhere. I will double check eveything again tomorrow and if that doesn't cure it then it's onto the trailer and into a garage and I will miss another oportunity to try out the new trialler I bought three months ago. But, hey ho, life goes on. Thanks to all for the advice. Aragorn, ref the mod, it would be nice but I'm not really confident enough to do it myself at the moment. All I want is a truck that goes for now.

And the saga continues.... It does not appear to be the coil as a new one hasn't cured the problem. Next move was to run through BogMonsters "how to" on the spider. Trouble is - no spider. There appears to be an aftermarket alarm fitted. The box next to the fuseboard has "Serpistar GM300" written on it and the logo matches the sounder under the bonnet. The only info I can find on it doesn't seem to relate to this specific model so I am reluctant to start trying to fiddle with it. I am at a bit of a loss as to where to go next. My gut feeling is that the next week link is the amplifier on the side of the distributor, but taking that off means taking the distributor out. If this is unavoidable, then so be it. But if there is something I'm missing that anyone could point out I would be very grateful. BTW, I have just checked all the fuses that I could find and all are ok.

Now the rain has gone away for a while, a chance to delve further. In answer to the above, the amp was originally next to the coil. But the new distributor has one strapped to the side so the wiring was extended to reach. There is power coming into the coil. About 11.8V, probably a bit low because the engine has done a lot of cranking and bugger all firing. After doing a little web research I tested the resistance of the two windings. Primary comes in at 1.1 ohms and the secondary at 4850 ohms. According to Haynes, the primary is ok (0.5<>1.2) but the secondary is out of range (3000<>4000). Not knowing the tolerances on these sort of things I am unsure what this tells me. My hunch is that the coil is bust. Correct? I humbly await your wisdom. Particularly as SWMBO wants to use it for work tomorrow evening!

Just when I thought it was all going so well! After a bit of a long story, I finally managed to get my Disco to run and pass an MOT. It turned out the distributor was worn and needed replacing. Fine, off to try and find one. Turns out the only way to get them new is from Britpart through local Landrover stealer. So my tame mechanic put that in for me and, after a few teething problems, all was well. I have done nearly 300 miles around South and Mid Wales over the weekend and it didn't miss a beat. SWMBO borrowed it this morning to move her horsey gear around. Mid morning I got a call to say that it had cut out. No missing, no popping and banging, just revs died off and stalled. I came home from work, but by this point it was running again. As she didn't want to be stuck on her own we parked it up and waited until I could finish work proper and be with her. Once I returned, it fired up and ran ok, so off we went. Half a mile or so it stalled again. Re-started and another 100 yards stalled again. Decided to head for home at this point. Turned around at roundabout, only running for a couple of seconds at a time now. Then it finally gave up the ghost. Turns over fine, but will not fire. There doesn't seem to be any spark at the plugs (took a lead off, put a screwdriver in and held close to block). I am not brilliantly mechanically minded. but I have a few basic trains of thought. Either it is the distributor (having heard the horror stories about Britpart) or the spark is not getting as far as the distributor in the first place. How would I go about checking that there is power going into the coil? I have a basic multimeter, but no clue as to where I should be checking. If there is power into the coil, is there a way of checking that it is being transfered to the distributor? One other option that has popped into my head is the imobiliser, but I didn't think this would give the intemittent and then total failure. Could I be wrong? It is a 3.9 EFI autobox, if that makes any difference. Any help or advice would be gratefully recieved.

Just had exactly the same symptoms on mine. Went through the whole lot, plugs, leads, rotor arm, coil, amplifier etc... Then handed it over to a professional who discovered the bob weights in the distributor were worn. One new distributor later later and she was running as sweete as a nut. Well almost. Due to all the popping and farting that ha been done, the AFM had given up the ghost so a new (second hand) one was called for. Hopefully it will go through an MOT on Monday. BTW, they diagnosed the bob weight issue by taking the distributor out, filling it with releasing oil, putting it back in and then running the whole thing up. Ran fine until the releasing oil ran out. HTH, Paul

Not sure if it's significant, but there is a single point LPG system fitted aswell.

Hi there, complete novice time again. I need to reset the timing on my 3.9 disco (N reg). The problem is that Haynes give a variety of setting points depending on the compression ratio and wether it has a catalytic conveter or not. The Cat thing I can check, but how do I know if the engine is high or low compression ratio? Thaks in advance, Paul

Once again I need to call upon the massed wisdom of this forum. My 3.9 N registration Discovery failed its MOT yesterday. One of the failure points was that the emmisions were too high. As the vehicle was LPG I asked them to test it on both fuels and it failed on both. I have had the vehicle checked over by a professional lpg installer. One of the checks that he wanted to carry out was the timing. Here comes the problem. Haynes book of fairy stories tells us that there is a nice scale on the side of the crankshaft pulley marked with before TDC, TDC and after TDC. Trouble is that mine doesn't have this. There is a single groove cut into the crankshaft pulley. We worked on the assumption that this was the timing mark. Setting up with the strobe we adjusted the distributor so that the groove lined up with the pointer. This seems to have improved the situation, but I would like to be certain that this is actually the timing mark. And, also, if it isn't, what is? As an additional note the vehicle has new plugs and leads as the leads were shorting out in a few places. While I am on here I will pose another question on the MOT. Last year the place that tested it mraked the fact that the tyres foul on the radius arms as an advisory. As I knew this and have not had the time to reset the lockstops I assumed that all would be OK. Not according to the testing station that I took it to this year. They have marked it as a failure point. So, who is right? Sorry to waffle on, but I had a long day of it yesterday and an MOT failure was the icing on the cake. Thanks in advance, Paul

Thanks for the information guys. Kenwood have been very helpful and printed the electrical info on the cradle, which was nice of them. The input into the cradle is DC and the polarity of the plug is marked on the socket of the cradle. So, it's off to Maplins after work tommorrow with a wee shopping list. Thanks again, Paul

Sorry about this being off topic, but I am a bit of a dunce and am sure there is some wise sages on here who have the answer. For work we use Kenwood VHS radios for comms. These are charged in cradles that use adapters to drop the mains voltage down. The adapter takes 230V and drops that down to 14.5V, 800mA. This then goes into the cradle that takes it further down to 9.4V, 850mA. My qusetion is, is it possible to connect a 12V supply to the cradle so that I can charge the radio in my truck on the move? If it is possible, how do I go about doing it? Thanks in advance,, Paul

We used Camacs on our L200's in work until last year. Our tyre supplier tells us thet the camac factory has closed down. Something to do with a strike???? We now use Khumo tyres, more than a match for the Camacs.

I know this is a basic thing, but I want it to stay fixed to the windscreen for more than a few days. I awoke a few days ago to find my rearview mirror had taken up residence in the passenger footwell. (Now been moved to a temporary house in the glovebox) My question is, what should I use to fix it back to the windscreen? I have tried the sticky pad things on cars in the past and not had a lot of success. They don't seem to like the sun or the cold. Also, there is some of the old glue still stuck to the windscreen. What is the best way of cleaning this off without damaging the windscreen? Is there any other prep I can do to help prevent the situation from recurring?

What about your local agricultural supplier/dealer? I know that we use this type of fixture on the back of our tractors in work to operate various bits of kit.

Would wiring them straight to the headlights, with no additional relays, put to much load on the existing wiring?

Eggs will be just fine, afer you've been using it for a while. In the cheffy trade they call it a patina that biulds up on the surface acting as a natural anti stick. I use a steel plate on top of my gas barbecue to cook bacon and eggs when we are on holiday.

I have a set of 7" on the bumper of mine. I'll take some pics in the daylight tomorrow.

This will be of little help, but I just thought I would pass on the tale of a true bodger. I bought my Disco about a year ago. I knew when I bought it that there were a few issues with it cosmetically. One of these was that the drivers side window would not go up or down. As I opened or closed the door I could hear a knocking sound. So, being naiive, I assumed that the bolts had come out of the regulator and that it was swinging around inside the door. So, no big problem. Set aside half an hour to take off the door card, bolt the regulator back on and away to go. Er, no! When I took the door card off, I could then see that what waas making the knocking noise was the length of decking timber that the last guy had used to wedge the window up while the glue had set around the upper frame! Thankfully, I have a good friend who just happened to have a regulator lying around. So, once I'd spent a day scraping glue from the window and upper frame, we were cooking on gas.

Has anyone had any experience of this stuff? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...y0%3D%26fvi%3D1 Does it work? Is there actually a need fro it? etc...